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  1. Last 7 days
    1. Hi, it depends on the shop and the person doing the work. I diagnose for a flat fee of $20. For manual machines, general cleaning and service is billed at $165 with repairs at $65/hrs plus parts. Teardowns and restorations are billed purely hourly. This job is a total of $1,100 with the teardown as well as a frame weld. The welding required parts prepping, gas fees, post processing... and took about 5 hours total. The rest of the machine is about 15 hours so far. Still have about four to go. So yeah, I'm technically supposed to bill another $400 or so, but I'm going to let that slide since the client is already paying a lot for a machine worth way less. Typewriter repair is expensive, especially when it's done to the level of detail that I go to. Very few shops put this much care and attention into these machines. All that being said, the average job on a manual typewriter at my shop usually runs around $300. Full clean, and usual repairs

      Typewriter Chicago / Lucas Dul rates: - Diagnosis for $20 - Manuals: general cleaning and service: $165 - repairs at $65/hour plus parts - average job on manuals runs around $400 - teardowns and restorations billed purely hourly around $55/hour

      This example is $1,100 for 5 hours of frame/welding work and 15 hours of tear down, cleaning and re-assembly. He'll likely go 4 hours over, but is discounting it.

  2. Jan 2025
    1. Typewriter Basics: End of Page Indicators by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Handful of methods:<br /> - page gauges (Smith-Corona, some Royals) - paper support arm (adjustable) - notch in paper pan (Hermes & some Silver Seikos) - Platen knobs (requires mod math and adjustable ring) (IBM)

    1. Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

      Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

      Basic Tools

      • screwdriver sets
        • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
        • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
        • long reach screwdriver
        • magnetic screwdriver
        • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
        • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
        • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
        • grab hooks
      • pliers
        • standard needle nose pliers
        • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
        • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
        • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
      • Mechanics' wrench set
        • prefer cast ones
        • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
        • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
      • Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
      • Tweezers
      • Blowtorches
        • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
        • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
        • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
      • Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
        • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
      • MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
      • strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
      • knife (butter knife)
        • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
      • flashlight (simple is fine)
      • marker (Sharpie)
        • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
      • hammer
      • retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
      • Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
      • Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

      Intermediate Tools

      • segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
      • drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
      • carpenter's pencil for marking

      Advanced/Specialty tools

      • t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
      • 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
      • peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
      • wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
      • eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
      • files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

      Very specialized

      • Type slug solder jig or solder guide (30:52)
      • keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
      • multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

      Honorable mentions

      • center punch for drilling points and new screws
      • dental mirror for looking into machines
      • spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

      Q&A

      air compressors are useful for cleaning

      Don't damage screws on older machines.

      US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

      3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

  3. Dec 2024
    1. Royal Quiet Deluxe Typewriter Cuts Off Top of Letters Ribbon Lift Adjusted, Repaired Character Print by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      If the tops of one or two individual letters is being cut off, it may require forming of the letter's assembly to have it engage with ribbon lift bar a tad earlier.

      This is different in form from an on feet adjustment.

    1. Ultra One, a restoration firm whose specialty product is a de-rusting solution which is designed to remove only rust while leaving the underlying metal, paint and decals intact.

      Could Ultra One's rust solution be used on typewriters?

    1. The 2023 Rover Typewriter: Worst Machine Ever? by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

      I know Michaels was carrying the We R Memory Keepers typewriter, but hadn't heard about Home Depot carrying them.

      Rover made by Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company still making typewriters (bad quality control, plastic, poor alignment). These are variously rebadged as: - the Rover - the Royal Epoch - We R Memory Keepers (Michaels, Home Depot) - Royal Classic (metal shell) - Maplefield (Target, Walmart, Michaels) - The Oliver Typewriter Company

      Will Davis has determined that they're all based on the Olympia Carina.

    1. (Some summary of ring & cylinder adjustments based on other notes)

      A new platen in many cases will help to solve some of the proximal problem, but you'll still have heavy wear on your paper/ribbon and your new platen over time as a result. The first adjustments a pro typewriter repair person would make after installing a new platen would be to check the ring & cylinder, on feet, and motion which can all be subtly out of alignment with a new platen.

      Pretty much every typewriter in modern era has adjustment points for this. All three of the machines you name definitely do. You'll find some of the basics and adjustment points for several machines described at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1945-AMES-OAMI-MechanicalTrainingMan.v1-ringcylinder.manual. If you look at the manuals for specific machines that Ted Munk has collected at the typewriterdatabase.com, you'll find how/where to make those adjustments. Several on Polt's website describe the adjustment as well: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Some sources may describe the adjustment as hammer and anvil as opposed to ring and cylinder.

      You're also likely to find YouTube videos on them as well (I'd check Phoenix Typewriter's channel first, though I do recall he mislabeled one once on a S-C Skyriter which was really an on feet/motion adjustment.) Duane's also got a really subtle and uncommon adjustment on a Royal QDL here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOET0i3DsR8

      Gerren gives an adjustment nod for the Olympia SM series here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2jnC6ODB834&t=670s And here's a blogpost about the adjustment points for an Olympia SF: https://ber10thal.com/blog/repairing-a-1961-olympia-sf/

      Related blogposts from Munk for a Brother JP-1:

      Hopefully your machines and hardware appreciate the finer adjustments and wear better over time as a result.

      Happy typing!

    1. The last adjustment I needed to make is sometimes called ring and cylinder. It moves the platen closer or further from the typebars. I think the rubber on the platen over time dried and shrunk a bit. I used this adjustment to move the platen closer in order to get a better type imprint. (note: you have to loosen two screws on each side of the carriage [4 screws] in the next photo before making this adjustment.)
    1. reply to u/Jbhusker at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hk15pf/the_frenzy_continues_where_does_it_end/ on an old and rough looking Underwood No. 3 from 1927

      The shipping price is suspicious as even Shopgoodwill wouldn't ship it for that low. I do notice some online sellers playing games between machine pricing and shipping. They'll often price a machine lower than "market" and then make up for it with an astronomical shipping price. This example seems to have gone the other way, which may help some novice typewriter purchasers who wouldn't understand that this is a 30# machine.

      What's going on in this example does present some interesting analysis of the current market.

      Possibilities driving the price here: - Week before Christmas and someone is burning spare cash on a decorative/nostalgic present at the last minute. (I've noticed prices on everything going up in the last two months at a greater than usual clip. I suspect things will come crashing down a bit after the New Year.) - It was photographed well. - Included a video of it actually typing as proof that it "works". - It has the look of having been cleaned up despite the look of old patina which was left to make the machine show its age. Look at the exterior screws which appear cleaned/refinished while portions of the exterior don't. In fact, the underlying servicer (Adam of Brooksaw Antiques) seems to specialize in servicing machines to working order but leaving lots of age and patina on them almost as if they're being aged up on purpose. They've got lots of examples on a variety of socials as well as presences on Etsy and Ebay, which speaks to some level of experience. Given the appearance of experience here, I'd bet the machine shows up in the condition it was shipped. - "New ink" decreases the stress of the buyer on finding it themself (potentially a $30-50 value to the customer) and it only cost the seller $2, because I'm dead certain they bought it in bulk. - The eBay reviews of this shop are stunning over 931 items. The lowest is a 4.9 out of 5, which I'm guessing is someone dinging them on shipping price from an earlier sale where they had more realistic shipping numbers on large standards. - "Military Sand" may possibly have been misinterpreted as this being a mill. It is a great marketing name for the color in any case. - I would guess that the purchaser is buying this as a single showpiece for nostalgia's sake. They're getting the bonus that it works. (Like Kirk, I'm not a big fan of the refurb paint on these.) - Its the week before Christmas...

    1. reply to u/Rocky__1927 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hirzo5/remington_premier/

      As Ted Munk has commented on these before, rare is a reach. They're uncommon primarily because they didn't manufacture as many of these as they did of the American Quiet-Riters (or Office- or Letter-Riters). I would suspect it's stamped as made in Great Britain (though actually made in Scotland) after American manufacture moved there in the late 50s/early 60s where they only made them for a short time before switching over to more plastic bodied machines. Probably has a serial number starting with ERP on the frame near the ribbon cup. It's essentially a Quiet-Riter made in Scotland with smooth paint rather than crinkle. Surely some of the manufacturing process and materials will be slightly different/cheaper.

      There may be a completist Remington collector who might pay over $100 for it, but I wouldn't think you'd have an easy time getting over $75 for this unless it's in excellent/serviced condition, particularly when ubiquitous QRs with sturdier cases can be had for $10-25 in similar condition.

    1. The markets and level of ubiquity of these items in their heyday are so dramatically different that this is certainly an apples and oranges comparison.

      However, if you want to compare the artist/users of the instrument to their machines, which is a way of potentially intuiting a potential answer to your question (one which is highly subjective), you might go by who was using particular typewriters of the time. Here's some data to consider: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html

      For that rough era in American-made machines, you'll see peak engineering/manufacturing in the 1950s out of the Smith-Corona Super Silent, the Remington Quiet-Riter, and the Royal Quiet De Luxe. Design, touch, and tuning can all be such subjective measures here so as to heavily Muddy (the) Waters ('52 Gibson Les Paul Gold Top/'58 Fender Telecaster) on style, quality, and popularity amongst the cognoscenti. Peak quality in the 60s had broadly moved to post-war Germany and Italy with machines from Olympia (SM3, 4, 5, 7, etc.) and Olivetti respectively.

      For my personal money, in American machines of the time, I love the design and performance of my well-tuned, and mostly restored 1950 Royal KMG. However, the current market certainly wouldn't indicate a broader beloved status for these the way you'll see for Stratocasters. (You'll also find some horribly maintained and un-tuned machines out there on the market, which is why so much of the antique and vintage typewriter market pricing is so wildly out of whack.)

      A separate flavor of question certainly, but if you're looking for a solid performing typewriter to pair aesthetically and temporally with a '64 Strat, I'd go with a Royal FP ('57-62) (which came in Royaltone or Pearl Dark Gray smooth, Royaltone or Pearl Light Gray smooth, Willow Green smooth, Sea Blue smooth, Cameo Pink smooth (Petal Pink) , Brushed Aluminum, Sandstone smooth, and Coral Rose) or the smaller Royal Futura 800 ('58-'63).

    1. When it comes to some of the older manual typewriters, condition is king and a big determinant of price. For the budget range you're in, you're more likely to get something in mediocre shape that's going to require some work: cleaning, repairs, parts, other.

      Your best bet is to go to a repair shop that sells machines, put your hands on them, try them out, ask lots of questions, then buy your favorite. Your time is worth money and productivity, so buy something you like out of the gate and you'll save a lot in the long run. You'll probably be happier and better off in the long run with something in the £200-400 range. It will also give you something you can start using right away to get your work done rather than faffing about.

      Try shops from this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      I'd generally endorse most of the advice on models you'll find in these sources which are geared specifically toward writers, all three sources have lots experience and reasonable bona fides to make such recommendations. (Though they do tend toward some of the more expensive portables rather than the sturdier and more economical standard machines.)

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9dXflhDed0<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKMt-aCHZZk<br /> https://typewriterreview.com/2020/01/10/top-10-writerly-typewriters/

      Beyond this Just My Typewriter has a few short videos that'll give you a crash course on Typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      u/jbhusker's advice is solid if you prefer that sort of machine instead.

      reply to u/ArcherNF at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hdgte4/looking_for_a_recommendation/

    1. If there is enough room (at least 1.2mm), I use micro paracord to replace drawbands. It has no flex or stretch, can have its knot sealed with a little heat, is tested to 100lbs, and is pretty cheap for more than you’ll probably ever need. I have used Atwood micro cord purchased from Amazon for my projects.
    1. https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h4b3aw/is_there_a_source_that_exists_that_sells_or/

      If you need them for basic functionality, often you can find the manuals of the original manufacturers' models for rebrands (example: the Sears Tower machines which were really just rebrandings of the Smith-Corona 5 series).

      Additionally, after the 1930s there really wasn't a lot of new functionality, so almost any manual will help you to get you where you need to go, though there are some small differences in locations of things like carriage locks which can be helpful to know about and whose placement moved around on various machines.

      You might also notice that as typewriters were more ubiquitous in the 60s and 70s their manuals got thinner and thinner with less detail. If you do find a specific manual, you're unlikely to find very much in it.

      The Davis Brothers have some history on the Commodore line which was related to some of the Sears Chevron line. Polt does have two Commodore manuals which may be close to your machine: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

    1. On the value of typewriters

      As a hobbyist, you'll easily obtain several hundred dollars worth of potential diversion and satisfaction out of your alluring typewriter by cleaning, properly oiling, and adjusting it. Then you're guaranteed to both give and receive thousands of dollars worth of happiness out of it by typing letters to family and friends. With practice, you may reap millions by writing stories, plays, poems, screenplays, and books.

      Even if your scintillating typewriter sits on a shelf as home decor only to be viewed as a museum piece, you'll have gotten $50 of value for even that lowly function.

      You'll only have wasted your money if your wondorous typewriter sits lonely and forgotten in a dusty attic or dank basement to rust and rot away.

      Might you have gotten it for less? Perhaps, but you've saved yourself a huge amount of time and effort in such a hunt for a machine as desirous as this. You have it in front of you for writing right now.

      So get to typing at once my friend! For time is money, and every moment your fingers aren't caressing its keys, you are losing value.

      Congratulations on your stunning find.


      reply to u/readysalted344 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h3jyyt/did_i_waste_my_money/

  4. Nov 2024
    1. With respect to your spools, the side you show in the photo should go face down and the "v" cut side should face up. If you don't have one you can find a manual at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKHM.pdf The Royal standards from the X onward are broadly the same so manuals for the X, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, Empress, and FP should all be useful too: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

    2. reply to u/Pawps4895 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h1dcil/help_ink_ribbon_not_moving/

      That ghosting effect you're seeing may be down to your typing technique. Computer keyboard typing technique is different than typewriter technique. If you're pressing hard and/or bottoming the keys out, you may not be getting your fingers out of the way and causing the key to double strike while you're lifting your finger up.

      Instead, type as if they keys are hot lava. Strike and release them as quickly as possible and that ghosting should clear up. For more on technique, try: https://hypothes.is/users/chrisaldrich?q=tag%3A%22typing+technique%22

      If that isn't the issue, is that ghosting happening on all the keys or just a few? Cleaning things out certainly couldn't hurt: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

    1. Inspired by the discarded typewriters and the ubiquitous construction materials she saw all over Berlin, she created "Writer's Block," an art installation with rebar-caged writing implements placed in Bebelplatz, where in 1933 Nazis burned piles of books.

    2. The store offers maintenance and repair lessons to the public (including Philadelphia school students). The shop hosts poetry nights, open mics, comedy shows and other events. It even offers typewriters to public places such as bookstores, libraries and coffeeshops to bring the machines back into the collective consciousness.
    3. Bryan Kravitz, who specialized in IBM Selectric repairs. Rhoda wanted to learn, too. Kravitz was happy to teach him."I just put my head down, and learned how to do it," Rhoda said, and he partnered with Kravitz to open Philly Typewriter in 2017.
    4. Bill Rhoda, co-owner and lead mechanic at Philly Typewriter.
    1. Most Petite typewriters use T4430 or T4431 ribbon (1/4" wide or 6.50mm) which can be found on eBay and other sites. It generally requires original spools.

      These were generally carbon/plastic based ribbon.

    1. Start of an outline for a longer article on typewriter tools<br /> Suggested by reply to u/Confident_Avocado768 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gy25og/christmas_gift_help/


      If they've been doing restoration for a while, try to find out what they already have to avoid duplication. Anyone who's done a few machines is likely to have a lifetime supply of lubricant (it really goes a long way) and is likely to have gone well beyond cotton swabs. The sort of kit you mention would be more appropriate to someone who's recently gotten their first typewriter, not someone who has restored more than a machine or two.

      Chances are that you can up the level of their restoration tool bag with a small handful of inexpensive and easy to source options:

      • oiler bottles for solvents/cleaning
      • spring hook (push)
      • spring hook (pull)
      • spring hook (captive)
      • wiping cloths (cotton)
      • nylon, brass, and steel brushes (example; 2 or 3 sets of these are always useful)
      • high quality wool mats make a great (soft) surface for working on machines (as well as for typing on). Here's some details and a link to a well-recommended one.

      I've documented some of my own versions of these with links at https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/

      Slightly more expensive tools that they may not have:

      If you really want to shoot the moon and they're into the older vintage machines, you could get them a new pair of keyring pliers: http://mytypewriter.com/hello-qwerty-typewriter-keyring-pliers-kit.aspx

      You can also browse Lucas Dul's kit for other ideas via this presentation: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

      Good luck and Merry Christmas! 🪛🛠️🎅🏼🎄

    1. Useful template for emailing about shipping typewriters


      Dear TK:

      Quite often typewriters are damaged beyond repair in shipping. This is particularly true of larger/heavier typewriters like this one.

      Primary concerns are to prevent movement of the carriage and protecting the carriage knobs and the silver carriage return arm.

      Please use an elastic band(s)/rubber band(s) to permanently hold the carriage release lever to the green carriage knob(s). The carriage release lever is the silver piece just above the green knobs on either side of the typewriter carriage (the part that would move back and forth while typing.) This should allow the carriage to move freely back and forth to the right or the left and prevent any damage to the delicate escapement mechanism inside the typewriter.

      Next, to prevent damage to the carriage with respect to the heavy metal frame, use plastic wrap or bubble wrap to ensure that the carriage is roughly centered on the typewriter (or flush on the left side) and can’t move back or forth while being shipped.

      Finally, ensure appropriate amounts of packing material around the carriage, the knobs, and the return lever to prevent them from being broken or damaged in shipping. In particular, make sure there isn’t any empty space (or dead space) inside the box or the machine is guaranteed to bounce around and break. The box being dropped accidentally from even a foot or two is enough to either bend or break the heavy frame or destroy the carriage. This sort of damage is often what makes what is otherwise a fully functional typewriter a useless boat anchor.

      Thanks in advance for your kind assistance in helping this vintage machine reach me in its best condition!

      Warmest regards, name

      Video example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNISoY_7g9s Written example: https://johnlewismechanicalantiques.com/packing-instructions/

    1. If you love the Art Deco style of the font, look for an Olivetti MP1 ICO with Simplicitas. Same feel but in a beautiful matching machine. I picked one up for $1500 fully restored from Spain. The look and feel of it is far superior to the Royal P Vougue. I've seen dozens of Vogue for sale, only two Simplicitas.
    2. The Everest K2 occasionally comes with Simplicitas typeface. It is in the Vogue family and I prefer it to Vogue. Might be worth considering. It’s rarer than Vogue. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/s/q7YmP7WZBN
    1. It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.

      People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.

      The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.

    1. And this is where you see how the condition of a machine comes into play when pricing is being considered. A $700 machine has had several hours of cleaning and potential reconditioning, parts, repairs, oiling, and adjusting done. At $700 and given it's age, I'd also want to ask if they've replaced the platen. Compare this with a dirty, old machine that's going to need those same hours of work, attention, parts, and new rubber, to bring it up to par and it's definitely not going to fetch the same price.

      And this is exactly what is wrong with 95% of the market: most buyers and sellers have no idea what they've got, much less the condition it's in or the work that it takes to bring these back to life for another 50-75 years. Thus they price their dirty, and rough machines at the same prices as the repair shops thinking they're going to make a mint. Apparently they're all hoping some sucker who doesn't know better will buy it.

      Remember: Dante has a special circle of hell for those who buy typewriters for pennies on the dollar and flip them on eBay without doing any work on them.

    1. Hi friends! I received a vintage teal blue SCM Smith Corona "Skyriter" typewriter. It is awesome, but it does not have the original spools. I ordered an expensive original ribbon from eBay, but it was totally dried out. Then I ordered an inexpensive "universal" (2") spool from Amazon that didn't fit in my machine. Does anyone have recommendations of new, small spool (1 5/8") ribbons that tend to be reliably inky? I am located in Canada and getting tired of paying import costs on stuff that doesn't work. Thanks in advance!

      reply to u/actualwoey at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gqhied/recommendations_for_reliable_new_small_spool_1_58/

      You could see if a local repair shop is parting out a machine or has spools that would work for you. iirc the Corona Zephyr, Skyriter, and the later versions of the Corsair all used that smaller spool size, usually described as 1 5/8" or 1 2/3". https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html Once you've got the correct sized spools, you can wind your Amazon ribbon onto them, but you'll likely have to trim it down to fit. (2" spools usually have 16 yards of ribbon while the 1 5/8" accommodate about 12 yards.)

      If you can't come up with original metal spools to respool your 1/2" ribbon onto, you can try https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/category-s/12779.htm which will sell you both in one go.

      Some other ribbon options: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I've had good luck buying bulk ribbon from both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line.

      I've heard some have successfully re-juvenated old ribbon by spraying it (unspooled into a box) with WD-40 or glycerine to re-wet it and then respooling it.

    1. Gerren HotRod TypewriterCoChris Aldrich this is the mat I use. It's $15 and it's soaked up 5 years of everything I do and it still looks like the day I bought it.

      Gerren of the HotRod Typewriter Co. uses a 17" x 13.5" Wool Pressing mat from the Zomoneti Store on Amazon for his typewriter repair set up https://amzn.to/3CkQS4V

    1. After using my newspaper.com acct it appears that 79 or so you see the correction key feature and the model often called "Report Electric Correction." By 1983 ish, at least in the dealer ads that show up, they have dropped it and are full steam onto the electronic version of the Report/er.
    2. Anything with "correction" (ie: originally used with white/black super-messy "correction" ribbons, and has the bichrome label "black, silver, white or white/red") will be very late 70's through the 80's. This *could* be 1987, and I think it probably is, because I know that correction started about 1978-9 for Brother, so it probably started around then for other manufacturers too. If someone knew for sure when those awful black/white ribbons were introduced *exactly*. you could pin it down more precisely, but right now, that's as good as we've got.
    1. Do not "dunk wash" your machine. Though some may debate, it is our opinion that this actually does more harm than good. Rusted parts will flash-rust, grime cannot be removed without violent agitation and no matter how thorough you are, you will never get all the water out.
    2. Mineral spirits are still the best for cleaning non-painted metal parts. Magic in a bottle, this is! Be careful to avoid getting it on painted surfaces, rubber, and/or plastic bits.
    1. If you've been dreaming of plunging into this profession, consider the success of Paul Lundy, who took over Bremerton Office Machine Company from nonagenarian Bob Montgomery; or Antony Valoppi, creator of Portland's Type Space, which combines a traditional typewriter shop with a cultural center; or Trevor Brumfield, a young man in his late twenties who has quickly built Dayton's TB Writers Plus into a busy enterprise.
    1. https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/fillers/fil-stik-putty-sticks/

      Putty sticks (aka paint sticks) are good for filling in nicks and dings on furniture.

      These putty sticks and some crayons are also great for restoring the colored index lines on typewriters as well as other colored metal parts and occasionally on some plastic typewriter keys.

      M231-10104 SYY Red<br /> M230-0054 Crimson Rose #SN292<br /> M230-0046 COCONUT, COTTON, BRIE, HEAVY CREAM, SNOWFLAKE <br /> M230-0090 Picket Fence

  5. Oct 2024
    1. Typewriter Basics: Carriage Locks by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Sarah describes having a common spacebar issue when repairing a typewriter, bending the spacebar down which causes the machine not to work/advance as a result when it's put back into the typewriter shell.

      Sarah also shows some type bar benders, but doesn't demonstrate how she (or her father) used them to do the repair.

    1. They're looking at what others online are listed for (and not what they've actually sold for) to set their price. They probably have no idea what the typewriter market is like and what the value of their machine really is based on a variety of factors including make/model, condition, servicing, extras, typeface. Unless their machine has an exceptionally rare typeface (usually adds $80-150) or has a brand new rubber (usually adds 30-40 for new feet) or a new platen ($100-180), then in its current condition it's probably not worth more than $50.

      Once you get it, you're going to want to have it cleaned, oiled, and adjusted which will run you several hours of labor and materials at a repair shop at $50-75 per hour. It may also need one or two replacement parts.

      If talking to them about the price doesn't bring it down significantly then you should pass on it. If you're not up to cleaning, adjusting, oiling a machine yourself, your best bet is to purchase something from a repair shop that already is. You'll have a far better experience. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      For comparison here's some similar machines professionally cleaned, serviced, with new ribbons and a 3 month warranty from $240-350 with some of the price depending on particular model and desirability of color. https://reeselectronics.com/search.php?search_query=smith+corona+silent&x=0&y=0

      If you've got money to burn then maybe it's worth $180 to you, but if that's the case then get something in much nicer condition from a repair shop.


      reply to u/EmergencyFirst7634 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gcyayc/this_a_good_buy/

    1. Royal Strengthen Shift Springs KMM Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      I picked this up from a repair manual, but good to see my reading was correct.

      Forming the tabs on the shift assembly inwards will increase the tension and responsiveness of the shift assembly on older Royal standard typewriters.

    1. If the "Hanks Effect" was really so prominent, then we should see the commensurate rise in price of 5 Series Smith Coronas and particularly the Clipper and the Silent which he's also mentioned several times. In fact, he's said these would be the typewriter he'd keep if he had to get rid of all others. Given this fact, it has to be, in part, a variety of other factors which inflates the prices.

      Personally I think that it's a combination of the fact that they were manufactured at the peak of typewriter use and manufacturing and before companies began using more plastic and cheaper manufacturing methods, but were also done in a later timeperiod when exterior design and color were on the rise as a differentiator in the marketplace. Quality, form, and function become part of a trifecta which drive desire and collectability.

    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

    1. Royal KMM KMG Typewriter Feet Spacers Original Smashed Rubber Replaced by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Squished rubber feet spacers on the Royal standard typewriters can cause interfere with the universal bar and when they do, they'll need replacement.

      This is the same sort of interference seen on Olympia SM3s due to their squished/flattened rubber gaskets, though the symptoms are different.


      "Phoenix typewriter. Have a Royal day!" <br /> A slightly different sign off from Duane's usual... :)

    1. I consider Valentines 'designer' typewriters, and generally overrated. If you want to write on an Olivetti, I'd go for the Lettera 22/32/DL. The Valentine is based on the Lettera 32, so the mechanical part is solid, but the Valentine is not as well-balanced as the 32. And about ten times more expensive.

      Me starts thinking about cornering the market in Lettera 32s and 3D printing Valentine cases to put onto them...

    1. Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

      A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I've compiled and consumed over the last six months, so don't be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month of reading and researching.

      Basic Introductory Material

      Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you'll remember where you found the random information you're bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

      Work your way through Sarah Everett's excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      Read Richard Polt's book which is a great overview to the general space:<br /> Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

      Next watch the documentary California Typewriter. Documentary. Gravitas Pictures, 2016. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5966990/. It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you're headed off to.

      Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it.

      Basic restoration advice: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      On colloquial advice for degreasing, cleaning, and oiling manual typewriters https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Repair Manuals

      Create an account on typewriterdatabase.com which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs.

      They also have some openly accessible material like:<br /> * https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php

      Printed manuals: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&contributor=Ted+Munk&page=1&pageSize=50 PDF manuals: https://sellfy.com/twdb

      Ted Munk's website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful * https://munk.org/typecast/

      Richard Polt's list of service manuals, which also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Tools

      In rough order of increasing complexity:

      Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

      Videos

      Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

      While watching a variety of videos is great, as you're doing specific repairs search YouTube and you're likely to find full demos of the repairs you're doing yourself.

      I've compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

      If you're not a good typist or don't have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

      Internships & Apprenticeships

      If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can't spend the time on an internship. You'll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they're parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

      Podcasts

      Some useful Bibliography

      Good luck on your journey!


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gaza5x/learning_typewriter_maintenance_and_repair/

    1. You might not want to get too hung up on sound deadening material. Anything is better than nothing and stick on felt works just fine. Most of the noise from a typewriter comes from the paper being slapped between the platen. A new platen will give you more quiet sessions. Any felt added will keep out any high pitch resonant echos but it's not going to do a whole lot for the overall volume you will experience. A good typing mat like wool, and a new platen are by far the two optimal solutions for noise. Felt can be a bonus but unless it's a complete tin can rattle trap, the difference between 1mm and 3mm felt probably isnt going to rock your world.

      via Gerren @ HotRod Typewriter Co. at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3903042456599841/

      new platen > felt typewriter pad >> new felt in a typewriter for dampening sound.

    1. I would note that the Tippa S continued under Royal/Litton through the late 70’s in the form of the late Royal Sahara: https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.Sahara.72.bmys and Royal Caravan: https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.Caravan.72.bmys (Made in Holland)