Caring for the Holiday Case. This was a straightforward cleaning. The case was pretty bad. I scrubbed with soap and water, let dry for a few days, then cleaned metal with steel wool (0000 grade). Inside the movements were lightly lubricated with Marvel mystery oil, including the carrying handle and hinges. The case was polished with Meguiars cleaning wax (maroon tin). Final buff with mircrofiber.

The spring latches, handle, gray bookcloth and specialty screws came from Amazon. $40 for all. The rest of the hardware is original - I just cleaned it with CLR and steel wool. The black leatherette is Skivertex Ubonga, applied with contact cement after sanding and priming.

I've been wanting to learn electroplating so I bought the variable power supply and an anode. I had the rest. I made my own nickel acetate with vinegar and my own pickle with water and muriatic acid, baking soda in water to neutralize. Mother's to polish metals. It's my go to. Fabric was denim and poly canvas. Cheap poly grosgrain ribbon to hide my sins. 3M spray adhesive, contact cement, and fabric glue. I used double cap rivets for the hardware.

I repaired it using 2-part epoxy, and fiberglass dry wall tape. First routed out the path of the crack, and created a little reservoir for the glue just past the end of the crack, then applied the tape and worked the epoxy into the voids. I've been using it for a week now, and it looks like it's going to hold just fine.

It's oil cloth, but not the kind made today, sadly. Contact cement is fine. For a refurb, take lots of pictures. Undo any screwed in components (usually the handle and a couple springs). Using a dremel or similar rotary tool, gently grind down the inside cap of each rivet. It's easiest to use a pin and hammer to knock them out and avoid damaging the wood rather than prying the hardware up. Set aside the hardware for cleaning. Sometimes they're split rivets (which I loathe) and you have to be VERY careful to not wreck the wood pulling those. LOATHE. Get the case WET. It'll soften the glue, make it far easier to remove and keep the glue dust out of your lungs. Pay attention to the order in which it comes off and where the various cuts are made. Scrub the case clean. Let it FULLY dry. Sand any uneven areas and patch what needs patching. Make placement templates in case you have trouble locating the original holes for the hardware. Ensure your rivets or attachment parts will work with the existing holes, modify if needed. Install the internal top and bottom lining. Install the hardware with a pop rivet gun. Put the outside upholstery on. Install the handles/feet/rest. Put the sidewall lining in. Seal any surfaces as desired. Done. If the wooden case is beyond repair but hardware is good, you can build a new case and use the same hardware provided the internal dimensions and hardware placements match the original. I'm mid process on two portable wooden cases or I'd show pics.

Aluminum Foil Method: Tear off a small piece of aluminum foil and dip it in water or vinegar. Rub the rust spots gently with the foil. Aluminum is softer than chrome and will not scratch the surface while effectively removing rust. As you rub, the foil reacts with the rust, helping to dissolve it. Steel Wool Method (Use with Caution): If the rust is more severe, use fine steel wool (#0000 grade) to gently scrub the rusty areas. Be careful not to press too hard, as steel wool can scratch chrome if applied too aggressively.