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  1. Last 7 days
    1. The Secretary’s Day. 1947. Coronet Instructional Films. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOe0259_OuA (March 7, 2026).

      Typewriter desks with top flip functionality shown in operation at 00:32 and 01:45 and closing it up at 10:24.

      In addition to storing away the typewriter when not needed, these flip top desks also served as impromptu dust covers to keep dust out of them when not actively in use.

      Jean Carroll as secretary and Marge Quinn as stenographer.

      Paper sorter file in desk drawer at 00:55

      Appointments and diaries

      Definition of stenographer: responsible for dictation, transcription, typing, billing, filing, operate office machines like duplicators and calculators, occasional switchboard operation.

      Filing here shown as a simple presumably recent correspondence file that is kept on hand in the secretary's desk drawer rather than in a nearby filing cabinet or centralized office filing cabinet. 03:29

      "A good secretary doesn't rely on memory." (Instead she makes a permanent note.) timestamp 4:11

      Placing a long distance phone call [8:31]

    1. Advanced Typing - Shortcuts (1943)

      Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.

      Correct typing posture: fingers curved<br /> arms sloping up<br /> light fast strokes<br /> steady rhythm

      fast continuous motion of return lever<br /> using backing sheet (aka temping sheet ??)

      Shortcuts:<br /> mise en place for office supplies (she doesn't use this phrasing though) - greater efficiency - cuts down on searching

      tabulators can be helpful. There are two types:<br /> - automatic - handset

      Use tabs for paragraphs, dating letters, columns of numbers, and letter closings.

      To clear all tab stops, put carriage to left, hold tab clear key and move the carriage across. (Usually applies to Royal, Remington, Underwood, and Electromatic).

      On LC Smith and Woodstock machines sometimes have a tab clear lever on the back.

      Decimal tabulator keys help to align a variety of numbers around a decimal point. 09:43

      Always have a few tabs set to prevent a flying carriage which can be hard on the machine.

      When using carbon sheets which are slightly longer than the paper size, cut off a small triangle at the top left hand side. This makes it easier for one to separate the carbons from the copies by holding the top left with one hand and pulling the carbons out from the bottom of the stack.

      To align multiple sheets of paper for carbon copies, use a folded sheet at the top to taco the pages into the machine. Remove the folded sheet once the carbon pack is rolled forward.

      Paper bail rollers should be set to split the pages into thirds (for two rollers).

      Remington noiseless machines have a pressure indicator on the front of the machine (usually above the keyboard) which can be used when using thick carbon packs that may cause the ribbon guide to stick or bind.

      Only erase when the carriage is fully left or right to prevent eraser crumbs from falling into the machine. 15:26

      Use a soft eraser on carbon copies. Use and insert slips of paper behind the carbons and allowing them to stick out the sides, erasing from back sheet to front so as not to allow the eraser to mark your carbon copies. For the front sheet, use a shield and ink eraser and erase with a horizontal motion. After erasing, easily pull out the inserted sheets.

      When typing a correction, tap the key lightly two or three times rather than hard once.

      When in a rush and it's necessary to add a word (on double spacing), underline the last letter of the prior word and type a slash (/). Then move the typing line up and type the insertion above the prior line. This creates an "arrow" of sorts for the inserted word.

      Details for inserting extra letters in misspelled words using half-spacing machines. (Underwoods and Electromatics don't have this function.)

      Light pencil marks at the bottom of the sheet can help to indicate the coming bottom of the sheet.

      Putting up the card holders (fingers) on Underwoods and Royals. They help to hold the card and improve print quality and reduce noise.

      Card holders can cause markings on carbon packs if they're not lowered.

      Trick for quickly writing postcards in succession: Disengage the ratchet using the platen spring release (or variable platen switch) Type the address on the front of the card. When done give the platen a quick practiced spin. The postcard with "jump" up and stop at the paper table and be in position for rolling in the opposite direction to write the message on the back of the card! When done a faster spin of the platen will shoot the card over the back of the typewriter where it can land in a box to collect all the postcards which were written in such a manner. <br /> timestamp 23:22

      Time saving methods for addressing envelopes:

      • Front seat principle. Insert the envelope in the usual way and type out the address. When done, turn the envelope down through the machine with the right hand. With the left hand, place the next envelope between the top of the first envelope and the front of the platen. Feed the first envelope back through the machine (in reverse) and the second will be rolled in to place for typing. Continue in this fashion until finished. All the finished envelopes will stack up in the back at the paper table.

      • Chain feeding. The first envelope is inserted and rolled partway into the machine. A second envelope is inserted between the platen and the second envelope (behind the platen). Turn the first envelope to the writing line and type the address. Take out the first envelope and insert the next the same way as before.

      • Uses paper bail. Do the first envelope in the usual way. Spin it out of the machine up and behind the paper bail into a box behind the typewriter.

      For quickly doing labels or small cards:<br /> Create a small zig-zag fold into a piece of paper to create a pocket slot which can be scotch taped on either side. This template paper can then be inserted so that the pocket is visible above the writing line, but the paper below it is still in the platen. The label or card can be placed into the pocket and the platen reversed to feed the label or card in backwards to the desired typing line. Using a v-groove or hole in the typing line can create a pencil line to serve as a guide for inserting many labels at the same place so that the typing lines up between labels.

      Some offices had special platens for holding cards like this.

      Pockets like this can also be used to hold the page to add additional lines at the bottom of pages. Deeper pockets may need to be used for doing this with carbon packs whose carbons are longer than the pages.

      Alternately one can do something similar by creating a inverted u-shaped set of slits into an index card. to hold such labels.

      When in the midst of a page and needing to do another piece urgently, roll back the letter until about 2 inches from the top, and then place in the new page and one between each of the carbons. Then roll forward to do the short message as necessary. Turn back to the insertion position to remove the copies and then continue with the first letter where you left off.

      For drawing horizontal lines on typewriter paper, push the carriage to the extreme left and place the pencil or pen at the edge of the card guide and the scale. Then move the carriage to the right to effect the line. For vertical lines, put the carriage at the desired space and place the pencil at the card guide and scale and move the platen up/down as necessary.

    1. SHOP TALK!!! how to defeat a stripped screw head without losing your mind<br /> by [[Typewriter Justice]] on Youtube

      To help remove a stripped screw head, hit it with Kroil or a similar penetrant first. Then with a screwdriver, punch or similar tool, give it purchase on the right hand side somewhere and give it a nice whack with a hammer. This should turn the screw enough to move things along.

      Charlie attributes this trick to Dane Bailey (August 19, 1932 - April 21, 2019) of AAA Typewriter in Birmingham, AL.

    1. Michael ReesYou just eyeball it to make a cardboard template for the ends and measure the width. Don't try to make pockets for the platen knobs or the return lever. Just make the whole thing loose enough to cover the protrusions. I use 20 gauge sail window plastic so the cover is transparent.

      Via Michael Rees at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163310003194678/

      and specifically recommends https://www.sailrite.com/Plastipane-20-Gauge-Vinyl-Window-Material-54

    1. "Mazak" in the UK but more widely known (at least in the US, where it was developed) and in its original form as "Zamak", this metal is notorious for disintegrating (not "exploding" as some earlier poster claimed). It is also known as "pot metal" and, unhelpfully, "white metal".

      Mazak, aka pot metal, aka Zamak, is notorious for disintegrating over time. It's what can cause tab brakes on the Olympia SM7 to freeze up.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=253&p=3

    1. Addressing a COMMON FLAW in the Olympia SM7 typewriter that will ruin your day. Drawband Tab System<br /> by [[HotRodTypewriter]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-03-03T23:41:58

      Remedies for frozen tab brake system on Olympia SM7 typewriters:<br /> Drill a hole and lubricate<br /> Remove all together<br /> Remove and attempt to adjust swollen cork and then attempt to reinstall (patience testing)

    1. via Thom Cholowski at Rebel Typewriter Workshop in Saskatoon,Saskatchewan, Canada at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/4373364699567612/

      Rules of Good Repair Practices:<br /> The Success of the repair depends upon the Rapairman's ability in following the rules of good repair practices. These rules can be summed up as follows:

      1. Read the Service Bulletin thoroughly.
      2. Know what you are looking for. Never guess. Always investigate the source of trouble. Ask, if you do not know.
      3. Determine troubles by the process of elimination.
      4. Every part, no matter how small, has a job to perform. Do not overlook the smallest detail.
      5. Use the proper tool. Keep tools in efficient working order.
      6. Carefully handle smooth, plated or bakelite parts to prevent damaging or scratching.
      7. Make the repair like you would want it, if you were the customer.
    1. It indicates the motion or distance between upper a lower case letters on the typeface.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/olympiasg1/posts/1506621080656301/

      also:

      Greg Riutzel:<br /> That's how I see it. I measured it once. I put the ribbon in stencil, typed a lower case "h" and marked approx where the top of the type slug was on the paper. Then repeated with an upper case "H". The marks were just a tad over 7.5 mm apart checking with a rule. No precision of course but close.

      The number printed on the ring in the basket of Olympia typewriters, just above and to the left of the word "De Luxe" is the distance from the baseline of the bottom slug character to the baseline of the top slug character.

      In many instances it will be 7.6. I'm curious what other typefaces show and if this thesis holds?

    1. Nakajima All (中島オール) went bankrupt back in 2019. (Not to be confused with the Nakajima Aircraft Company.) https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO41025530X00C19A2X12000/ https://newswitch.jp/p/17807 Archive of the now-defunct website:(https://web.archive.org/web/20180816074211/http://www.nakajima-all.co.jp/) Someone might've bought the equipment from the Nakajima All factory in Indonesia and is still pumping out new ones (since the electronic typewriters Swintec sells are rebadged Nakajima All ones), but I'm not completely sure.

      via u/discardedaccounted at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1meum7j/new_typewriters/

    1. On an SG1 and an SG3 here, the right margin stop locks the printing keys as expected at x characters after the bell but not the spacebar nor tab, which both ring the bell and then blow right past the margin stop. Additionally, when the End-Of-Line lock stops the printing keys, I can continue spacing past the margin and then after about three spaces on the SG1 and about eight on the SG3 the printing keys are again active.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=27528#p27528

    1. Although the 'Mazac' tab. brake shoe problem is common, I cannot say that I have seen this before on an SG1 margin.  Interestingly, there is a similar 'exploding Mazac' problem on the ribbon reverse arm of the Olympia Model 8 post-war.  The factory probably had no idea at the time that this 'easy to die cast' metal would do this in years to come.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32384#p32384

      re: cracking house on tab sets for SG1<br />

    2. the disintegrating tab. brake shoes !  I have seen this on SM portables too - they have the same tab. brake.  As a temporary measure, you could try filing the worst of the expansion off and re-fitting.  You can also sometimes get away with having just three brake shoes instead of four.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32375#p32375

    1. [rant] As a side note, I'm wondering if this is an example of how the internet, social media, and self-publishing has contorted our designation of authoritative sources.For example, the only person I consider to be an authority on typewriters in this forum is Tom (thetypewriterman). He is the only one here (to my knowledge) who has actually been trained as a typewriter technician and has worked in the trade - long before the current crop of self-made authorities 'discovered' typewriters. Tom was actually repairing machines while some of us were still using them for school or work prior to the introduction of the personal computer.The majority of our forum members might be very experienced, some are self-learned shade tree mechanics, but to my archaic way of thinking this doesn't make someone an authority on the subject.I apologize for this obvious and distracting tangent. This is a sensitive subject for me because my own trade has been overrun by internet created, so-called experts who lack any formal training or professional experience. I throw up in mouth a little when I read, or hear the word influencer; the digital generation allows itself to be lead by those who talk the loudest, run the fanciest websites, or have the greater number of social media followers. No one seems to care if those influencers have any credentials that would validate their public opinions.These observations are not meant to slight dragon typer. I don't know who the OP's authority is, nor do I need to; however, I did cringe at the "typewriter god" description and have to wonder if this god is someone who actually worked in the typewriter industry, or is just an enthusiast like most of us here who became an influencer by way of self-promotion. [/rant]

      via Uwe at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=3521

      Amen

    1. Olympia SG1 1953-72 cleaning (technical restoration)

      Partial/very modest teardown and cleaning of an Olympia SG1. Only beginner level. No flush of machine or real blow out.

      Interestingly he uses a steel brush to get rid of the brown adhesive where the felt used to be, but doesn't replace it.

      Also demonstration of cleaning corrosion off of screw heads with steel brush on a vice.

      Carriage work starts at 06:17. He opens it up and then gives up after a modest wipe down. He does show some

      Uses a toothpick to oil the joints, but only shows a modest portion of the process.

  2. Feb 2026
    1. I'm at eleven typewriters now, with ten in working order and one that is a toy. I gave two machines away for free, and I sold one to a workmate for the same amount of money that I spent on it. My intentions to acquire and keep them changed through the three years of me being into typewriters. It started with finding a broken SG1 in the trash at the side of the street that I was able to repair. Then I was looking for a use for it, because it had found a place in my heart. I found two other machines in working order, also in the trash at the side of the street, of which I am keeping one and I have one away because it wasn't my liking. I received one as a gift from my brother-in-law that was owned by his grandfather, which is a very nice machine that makes it easier to keep for sentimental reasons. Then there is another machine that once belonged to my long-gone grandfather, which I keep for sentimental reasons and its nice techno pica typeface. This list keeps going on. So, there's a mixed bouquet of reasons I make up to keep machines and why I just can't give that specific piece away. I know I'm a hoarder, but the size of the machines keeps me in certain limits. Is it consumerist? Well, yesn't. I must admit, I would love to own a chocolate script Olympia SM3, and yes, I do like to show off my four different typefaces. I am looking to find a sixties SM9 to find out what the fuss is about in comparison to my late seventies SM9. But on the other hand, nothing beats the satisfactory achievement of finishing another three pages letter for one of my daughters. I hope they will read my lines one day and hear their daddy's voice through the paper that I touched before them and the imprints that my muscles caused. It is a piece of me, turned into ink on paper, that remains. And it is some obsolete tech that I curated/used/liked/hoarded, that will probably go into steel recycling after I'm gone.

      brief typewriter bio for u/andrebartels1977 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r3udld/thoughts_on_the_hobby/?sort=new

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rfkptq/morgan_freeman_talking_about_his_typewriter_in/

      THE MAGIC OF BELLE ISLE (Magnolia Pictures, 2012) features an Underwood standard at about the 31 minute mark.

      Morgan Freeman says: "Look at that machine. I like that you have to write a bit slower on a manual. Like the way it sounds. I like the way that the letters bite into the paper. I like that you can feel there's a genuine human being, doing the work."<br /> (doublecheck the exact quote)

    1. The Man Who Stole Infinity<br /> by [[Joseph Howlett]] in Quanta Magazine on 2026-02-25<br /> accessed on 2026-02-26T09:01:10

      Dedekind proved that the set of algebraic numbers is the same size as the set of whole numbers.

      Cantor plagiarized his proof and later went on to prove that the set of real numbers is larger than the set of whole numbers.

    1. Even with keyring pliers and the skill to use them, the blackout paper method is a lengthy one.

      Keyring pliers are used to remove the metal rings off of both circular and tombstone glass typewriter keys so that the legends can be replaced or even covered over with black paper circles for teaching or learning typing. They take some practice and skill to use, but speed up the replacement of legends significantly.

    1. Mineral spirits are perfectly safe for key buttons. It's critical to make sure the solvent you're using really IS true mineral spirits, though.Other solvents, such as those billed as "laquer thinner" are NOT safe for plastics. That includes acetone, xylene, and any solvents containing them. I have heard that Selectric III keys are resistat to laquer thinner, but I still wouldn't use it even on a III. Laquer thinner may be applied VERY carefully after the full mineral-spirits bath using a syringe or small squeeze bottle for specific metal pivot points such as interposer pawls that tend to get extra-stuck from dried-out lubricants.

      via Rick Becker at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214

    1. That's just a post-war one. Rheinmetall typewriter factory was situated in Sömmerda, Thuringia (so far from Rhein), this way it become a soviet-owned company after 1945 and before it was returned to newly created GDR. A lot of these machines were produced to be supplied to USSR as kind of reparations payments. The layout also proves this. Here's an experimental "ЭУКЕН" layout, one of transitional variants on the way to modern "ЙЦУКЕН" (since 1953). While all the pre-war typewriters were built with 1918 layout "Й1УКЕН"

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rbydwu/soviet_era_typewriter/

    1. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10162847550852775&set=p.10162847550852775&type=3

      Olympia quality control sheets had sections for:<br /> - shift (Hh Hh Hh)<br /> - type specimen for all the characters<br /> - Black ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Red ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Stencil Test <br /> - Final Proof: "Olympia-Qualitaet findet in der ganzen Welt Anerkennung - sie verbuergt besseres Schreiben."<br /> - Line Spacing: the letter "m" at all settings<br /> - Back Spacer: "rrrrRRRR"

    1. Chuck Theile, Acme Typewriter Service and Restoration, South Lyon, MI. Machines can be dropped off at 116b N. Lafayette, South Lyon, MI. A customer writes: "They accept all makes and models for repair. The phone number there is 248-486-5205 or you can call the repairman direct (Chuck Theile) at 248-455-6778." E-mail qwertyrepair@yahoo.com. Read a story about him here and another here. "I've been repairing typers and other office equipment for nearly 4 decades. Seeing a recent resurgence in the poularity of typewriters is very gratifying. Young people in particular seem to be rediscovering these historic machines and I'm happy to be able to provide a service that's not readily available anymore.  Primarily serving the Wayne, Oakland, Washtenaw and Livingston County areas, arrangements can be made for service anywhere. I've been able to repair nearly 100% of the machines brought to me. Including many dating back to the early 1900's. Don't give up or throw it away before you let me have a go at it!"
    1. PSA. Analogy: “Hi Mr. Mechanic! Here’s my ‘72 Datsun. I’d like you to give it a tune up. Oh, by the way, I’m not a mechanic but I pulled out the steering column and took apart the starter. Here are the parts in this bag” (When a client takes apart their machine, got in way over their head and wants me to fix their mistakes. Please… I appreciate you’re experimenting, but this is a huge nightmare to me. I’ve passed on several of these machines.)

      via Todd Young https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163194812329678/

    1. reply to u/MartyFunkhoosier at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r03411/1940s_underwood_correspondent_types_very_light/

      How good is your typing technique? https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Typically you want to strike the key as if it were a hot coal and let the initial hit's momentum force the slug against the ribbon/paper/platen. If you're "bottoming your keys out" which happens more frequently when you hunt and peck, then you'll end up with a ghosting effect. Using your paper bale properly is important for clear imprints.

      If your ribbon isn't well inked (it should color your fingers when you touch it or look "wet" if it's new) that can sometimes be an issue. Beyond that, platens tend to shrink and become hard with age. As a result the machine goes out of its original proper alignment thus making your imprints lighter. You can use a second "backing" page to help make up some of the difference, but a re-covered platen (J.J. Short Associates can help in the U.S.) and a proper ring and cylinder adjustment will likely help. And if you can't afford the recovered platen (~$120) then a ring and cylinder adjustment will help nonetheless. (Check Youtube for how you might do this yourself if a shop isn't nearby.)

    1. reply to u/Yiqu at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r08q2i/buying_a_first_typewriter_for_writing/

      The first three articles you'll find under https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Market will give you a quick crash course about what to consider and look out for in your search.

      If you want to get to work, your best bet (and honestly the best value) is to get something from a repair shop that is serviced and ready to go. In the US this means a budget range typically from US$300-$600, or perhaps slightly more if they've recovered the platen which will improve your experience. Prices dramatically in excess of this often include a lot more custom work or less common typefaces which don't necessarily improve your performance (or are people selling typewriters who have less of an idea than you do about typewriters.)

      Many hobbyists here may say to get something cheap that "works", but the amount of time and knowledge you have to scaffold to do that is worth a lot of writing time, and often still requires a lot of cleaning, restoration, and potential tinkering which is even more onerous when you just want to get to writing.

      In case you haven't found them, some great resources on leveraging typewriters as distraction-free writing devices:

      And if you need some serious distraction free advice, since it's hiding as deep knowledge amongst a handful of serious collectors/writers, the bigger your (standard) machine, the more visual space it takes up as you're writing and subtly helps your concentration. Similarly placing it in front of a wall (and not a window) helps a lot too.

    1. I was in your shoes and I dove in head first. After reading, owning, and watching countless videos on the matter, here's what I have learned: Don't buy online Only buy what you can have your hands on before exchanging money Be picky, don't just get any machine on the belief you'll start fixing them. Do not view them as being "rescued" when you buy another broken machine. Start off with a solid machine with no issues. (I suggest an Olympia brand, sm-3 etc) Honorable mention: only acquire organically through yard sales, estate sales antique stores etc. It imbues your machine with magic 🪄

      via u/Forge_Le_Femme

    1. reply to u/CaliKelli989 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qx43wy/smith_corona_classic_12_for_75worth_it_for_my/ on signaling by online typewriter sales

      Where you're selling is one of the biggest signals of all. Selling machines for over $250 on Facebook requires way more signaling on the part of a professional or semi-professional seller. Mr&Mrs are doing a whole lot more work on restoring their machines than the average "blow and go" level that Janet and her significant other are likely doing (or that done by the average shop), as a result they're doing more work to show that, but they're occupying a dramatically different market space. Who is offering warranties on their work? Who is recovering platens? Who is explicitly stating the quality of the rest of their rubber? (Note that Janet isn't saying anything about the rubber washers on her SM3s, nor did they say anything about the rubber feet or the feet on the cases. Were they all replaced?)

      Most professional shops and restorers are selling via their physical shops or their own websites instead of eBay, which takes steep cuts, or FB where it's harder for their much better quality machines to stand out amidst similarly priced dirtier machines. (Most pros also refuse or prefer not to ship when they can avoid it, so online presence doesn't "buy" them much.) There's a huge gulf in the levels of work that Walid Saad or Lucas Dul are offering in complete tear downs and restorations and the simple clean, oil, and adjust operations that are being offered by average pro shops and that's different again from what I suspect Janet is probably offering. This doesn't even get into the space of the lowest level "flippers" and vintage/antique shops whose only value add is finding and offering machines. As a point of reference, Lucas is doing less than a full restoration a month in an average year. The rest is cleaning machines for straight sale and then repairs that walk in the door. I'd suspect that he doesn't have more than a dozen machines in stock that are ready for sale today compared to a multi-person operation like Typewriter Muse which has nearly 30 machines on the shelf ready to go.

      There's a huge spectrum in the level of restorations being offered out there. Very few people appreciate any of the differences.

      The issue is that many people starting out don't want to pay a lot for a clean/restored machine, so they're fine with something that "works". Generally they don't know what they're missing from a finely tuned machine. At the other end are serious collectors, who often have the knowledge and expertise to service their own machines. The biggest issue with the market is the huge gulf of information imbalance between the novice buyers and novice sellers and the professionals.

      Hope this helps on the differentiation that's available out there...

    1. Royal Typefaces from 1967 WOMDA

      • Royal Farnsworth - 11 pitch
      • Royal Pembrook - 11 pitch
      • Windsor - 10 pitch
      • Oxford - 11 pitch
      • Merit Elite - 12 pitch
      • Merit Pica - 10 pitch
      • Canterbury Elite - 12 pitch
      • Canterbury Pica - 10 pitch
      • Graphic Elite - 12 pitch
      • Graphic Pica - 10 pitch
      • Elite Century - 12 pitch
      • Contemporary Elite - 12 pitch
      • Contemporary Pica - 10 pitch
      • Executive - 9 pitch (double caps, italic)
      • Patrician - 12 pitch
      • Standard Elite - 12 pitch
      • Standard Pica - 10 pitch
      • Medium Roman - 10 pitch
      • Clarion Gothic - 12 pitch (double caps)
      • Manifold Elite, Single Gothic - 12 pitch
      • Manifold Pica, Single Gothic - 10 pitch
      • Manifold Roman, Single Gothic - 9 pitch
      • Modified Pru, Double Gothic - 12 pitch
      • Pica, Double Gothic - 10 pitch
      • Medium Roman, Double Gothic - 9 pitch
      • Small Double Gothic - 16 pitch
      • Small Elite - 14 pitch
      • Great Primer - 9 pitch
      • Farrington Optical Scanner Type 12L - 10 pitch
      • Policy Print - 10 pitch
      • Check Validation Type - 8 pitch
      • Small Spencerian - 12 pitch
      • Spencerian - 10 pitch
      • Butterick - 8 pitch (similar to Congress, but larger)
      • Large Vogue - 6 pitch
      • Small Bulletin - 6 pitch
      • Elementary Primer - 6 pitch
      • Bulletin - 6 pitch

      also has keyboard styles for Royals

    1. And please note that the figures in the Schlemmer are walking up the staircase. Upward movement in art often hints at lofty belief, as in, say, Titian’s “Assumption of the Virgin” or Barnett Newman’s emphatically vertical “zips.” Downward motion, by contrast, can evoke Dada irreverence and, in particular, Marcel Duchamp’s “Nude Descending a Staircase,” the Cubist painting that created a brouhaha at the Armory Show of 1913 because neither a nude nor the alleged staircase could be located in its welter of tilting planes.
    2. Lichtenstein, a pioneer of postmodern recycling, swiped the subject of his mural from a beloved masterpiece of German painting — Oskar Schlemmer’s “Bauhaus Stairway,” of 1932, which is owned by the Museum of Modern Art. The painting depicts an actual staircase at the Bauhaus, the progressive art school that opened in Weimar, Germany, in 1919, and exemplified the modern movement at its most extroverted and techno-friendly. Artists claimed a bond with designers and engineers and set out to repair the world.

    1. Typewriter-Adjacent Writing Devices<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-02-02T09:17:37

      Typewriter-like writing devices: - Privacy - security - autonomy

      Freewrite (fka Hemingwriter)

      • Smarttypewriter $699
        • Hemingway Signature $1000+
        • Valentine $999
      • Traveler: clamshell device, smaller $549
      • Alpha $349
      • Alpha Cosmic $499 with colorful keys
      • Freewrite Plus subscription service

      Remarkable

      • cloud storage or subscription
      • Starts around $400-600+

      Pomera

      • $499

      Zerowriter

      -$250 - open source, SD card, customizable keys - raspberry pi based

      Supernote

      • tablet
      • $329-500

      BYOK

      • Kickstarter; shipping now.
  3. Jan 2026
  4. www.reddit.com www.reddit.com
    1. Your alcohol is making the old oil and dust fluid again for a while, but without either fully flushing it out or blowing it out with compressed air, the solvent evaporates and the remaining solid oil/dust freezes things up again.

      Rubbing alcohol is probably one of the worst degreasers, but people recommend it because most people often have some in their house already. (Depending on the type, it also contains high proportions of water which isn't the best thing to mix with your metal typewriter.)

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means (be careful for splattering and cover the plastic and painted portions of the machine and surroundings with a rag). This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out.

      2-5 flushes can sometimes be required before you've really gotten all the old gunk out of your machine. I often wait several hours or even overnight to test the action after flushing before I re-attach body panels, etc.

      If you can acquire a small plastic oiler (see https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/) it can help to minimize the amounts of solvent you're using and the flexible tip will allow you to not only direct the flow of solvent, but create some fluid pressure when you squeeze the bottle.

      (Naturally use your degreaser in a well-ventilated space away from open flames and sparks...)

      See also: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Reply to https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qroqbf/halp/

    1. Royal Typewriter KMG Mainspring Drawband Tightened Adjusted Tension by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      On the left rear corner underneath the carriage when moved to the right, one can easily see the mainspring and drawband assembly. Just behind it is a worm drive operated by a screw. Turning this screw counterclockwise will advance the worm drive to the left and increase the tension on the mainspring.