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  1. Last 7 days
    1. reply to u/Vibeuel_ at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1s7lfdu/i_hate_loving_typewriters/

      He used Chapstick as a heavy grease to hold ball bearings in place to re-insert the carriage and ball bearings into a Royal Arrow.


      Sorry you went through this insertion of ball bearings into a Royal in this manner. For the future attempts, there is a re-creation of a custom tool for doing this sort of operation which also includes some repair manual details: https://www.m-morren.nl/product/17071027/royal-bearing-guide-ball-feeder-tool

      Lucas Dul also has a video that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_PONcT8HHI as well as some discussion of using straws at the 21:40 mark in this video: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

    1. I've had the same issue after taking mine completely apart. I can see the the a is too high, and the o and p are too low. This will happen the the type guide isn't in the correct position, and on your machine, it looks like it needs to be adjusted to the right, to bring the left side of the kb down, and the right side up. It's a fiddly process, and a small adjustment makes a big difference, so take it slow. Use the q and p keys as they are further apart on the segment. Give it a try and come back here to show the results.

      via u/guneeyoufix at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1s6irjx/can_someone_help_me_with_unaligned_letters_on_my/

      as a reply to u/Fit_Artichoke_8668 with respect to unaligned letters on a Corona 3 typewriter. The typing line of the lowercase was very wavy (up and down), so not simply a case of on feet or motion.

  2. Mar 2026
    1. Congratulations and welcome to the club.

      For some insane reason, the majority of typewriter collectors like 15-20 pound machines that fit into rectangular cases. This means that the value of fantastic machines like yours which are fully featured, better engineered, and which will last centuries aren't as high. With a solid clean, oil, and repair, this is the sort of machine that can do nearly everything you could want from a typewriter. This is a true writer's machine. I've got about six of these around in various colors as well as typefaces and type sizes.

      Yours is a Royal FP made sometime between '57 and '62 and can be more closely dated using the serial number under the hood and comparing with the database.

      Historical users of the vaunted Royal FP include the likes of Herb Caen, Peter De Vries, Stephen King, Melissa Ludtke, Frank O'Hara, and Morley Safer. Amongst many other appearances, this typewriter was also used by Sgt. Joe Friday in the TV show Dragnet, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (S5, E2), and was in the opening scenes of Miami Vice when Crockett first meets Lt. Castillo.

      Your manual, should you need it: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalFP.pdf

      Joe Van Cleave has a solid video intro and review of it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOnQRBo7YqA.

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMDfGkKqbgE If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these spools, but it's much cheaper to just buy 1/2" ribbon on cheap plastic cores or bulk ribbon on cardboard hubs and wind your own on by hand.

      More resources: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Reply to u/zoke10 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1s3mngq/thrift_store_find/

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ktb7ty/what_are_the_rules_of_typewriter_club/?sort=new

      The Rules of Typewriter Club

      The first rule of Typewriter club is Do not oil the segment.

      The second rule of Typewriter club is DO NOT oil the segment.

      Do not ask the value of your typewriter: they are invaluable.

      Always talk about typewriter club. Every chance you get: to family, friends, complete strangers...

      If you only have one typewriter, you must refer to it as "my FIRST typewriter".

      If you're new to typewriter club, you have to type.

      A typewriter is not broken unless it is clean and broken.

      Parts of a typewriter should only be removed in order to repair another typewriter.

      Keychoppers shall have the extremities they used to chop keys chopped off.

      More than one machine is allowed to be your "favorite".

      The last typewriter you bought is the greatest one. Until the next one.

      Never leave a typewriter outside, in a barn, or in a damp basement to rust.

      Typewriters are to type with. They should not be "flipped".

      Any reason is a good reason to buy and use a typewriter.

      The hardest part of typewriter repair is believing you can do it. Everything else is just instructions plus a careful, thoughtful hand. —Rt. Rev. Theodore Munk

      If you see a typewriter, you should take photos and upload the details to the TypewriterDatabase.com.

      Typewriters are not mood setting decor, they are meant to be used.

      Always leave a typewriter in better condition than you found it.

      We form things; we do not "bend" them.

      The only acceptable way to dispose of a typewriter is to find it a new home. The only exception is in dire circumstances in time of war when one should follow the guidance of the Underwood manual and "Smash typewriters and components with a sledge or other heavy instrument; burn with kerosene, gasoline, fuel oil, flame thrower, or incendiary bomb; detonate with firearms, grenades, TNT, or other explosives."

      If anyone asks you about your typewriter, you must spend at least five minutes talking to them about it.

      Legitimate typewriter sellers never use the phrases "it works" or "it just needs a new ribbon."

      Remember that typewriters are dangerous and can be used for samizdat. As Woody Guthrie wrote: "This machine kills fascists."

      Blessed are those who give typewriters to children for theirs is the Kingdom of Heaven.

      "In death, they have a name." Lenore Fenton. Lenore Fenton. Lenore Fenton!

      The Typewriter Database does not list every single serial number, just ranges of numbers and years in which they were made. You are responsible for figuring out which year your number fits into.

      "Working but needs new ribbon" is seller's code for "I have no idea if it really works, but I'm going to try to sell you this machine for the price of a fully functioning machine that was just serviced by a professional shop despite the fact that I just took it out of grandpa's barn and I'm not sure if the mouse inside is dead or not. Also, I can't afford $10 to replace an old ribbon to truly participate in the charade of the price I'm going to try to fleece you with."

    1. reply to u/Minimum__Dot1795 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rx45d7/imperial_70_can_i_use_any_spools_wanting_to_try/

      I'm not sure of the internal diameter of yours, not having used Imperial spools before, but some of the cheap plastic "Universal Spools" have removeable plastic cores that may allow you to pop them out and be compatible with your machine. The one's I've got have a 3/4" or 19mm diameter hole and are meant to be used with Remington machines instead of their metal spool hubs. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Typewriter-Typewriters-Replacement-Compatible/dp/B0D9P2P2Q7/?th=1)

    1. Congratulations. You've joined an exclusive club that includes writers like: Edward Abbey John Ashbery, Saul Below, Johnny Carson, Joan Didion, Bernard Kalb, Elia Kazan, Helen Keller, Grace Metalious, Arthur Miller, Carl Reiner, Fred Rogers, Rod Sterling, George Sheehan, and Wallace Stegner.

      I've got over 60 typewriters in my collection and the KMG is my favorite, especially when it's clean and properly adjusted. I've got one each in Royal Elite and Royal Pica typefaces they're so nice.

      KMG controls diagram: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg<br /> Richard Polt's site doesn't have a manual (yet) for the KMG, so pull the manual for the Royal KMM instead. It was the model made just before the KMG and should be functionally identical. The Royal HH which followed it was also broadly similar. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal 1/2 inch wide ribbon onto them, remove any eyeletes which aren't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMDfGkKqbgE

      Incidentally when browsing YouTube for repair videos, the mechanics of all the Royal standards (listed above) are all incredibly similar if not exactly the same, so search beyond KMG to find solutions.

      For cleaning:<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjumGF9NFE8&list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS&index=5<br /> - https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/ - The tombstone "glass" (acetate) keys are metal rings that hold a piece of acetate over a paper legend (with the key letter printed on it) onto a metal platform. Don't get liquids or water on these as it will seep inside and discolor or damage the paper legends. They're replaceable, but it requires a special tool and/or lots of patience. Incidentally, these were the last US manufactured typewriters with glass keys.

      Use and maintenance: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      If it helps, here's a link to all my posts about the purchase, history, use and some restoration pieces I've written about mine (start at the oldest and work your way forward): https://boffosocko.com/tag/royal-kmg/

      Other resources as you may need them: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Good luck!

      reply to u/Saltiend at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rwsfxp/just_bought_a_royal_kmg_any_tips/

    1. Choosing a Typewriter for Writers<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Manual typewriters for writers with a focus on machines made without needing to tinker/repair them.

      Joe primarily focuses on typewriters he actually has in his personal collection more than other potential great machines. Having been collecting for his particular purpose for a long time, he's got a pretty tight set of good recommendations.

      He's also got some good advice here about how to go about finding a machine and using professional typewriter shops to do so.

      Electric typebar typewriters with more tolerance for poor technique.

      IBM Selectrics, maintenance intensive, need carbon replacement film.

      Printwheel/Daisy Wheel typewriters. Brother, Nakajima, Swintec (components made by Nakajima),

      Ultra portable typewriters

      • Royal / Silver Seiko typewriter - no tabs
      • Olympia Splendid 33, 66, 99 - no tabs the 33 is monochrome

      Portables

      • Smith-Corona 5 Series
      • Olympia SM series: SM1 - SM9
      • Hermes 3000 series (overpriced on the used market)

      Standards

      Big and don't come with a case; will last nearly forever<br /> - Underwood 5<br /> - Royal standards, especially those that came after the 10

      Typebar Electrics

      • Olympia Reporter (Nakajima in Japan); designed in 80s for journalists
      • Royal Saturn (Silver-Seiko) one of the quietest out there; uses 9/16" ribbon; bichrome with tabs,
      • Smith-Corona Electric - first portable electric to hit the market.
      • IBM Selectric (71; manual correction)

      Daisywheel typewriters

      • Brother
      • RaRo has new Daisy wheels
      • delay between keypress and print
    1. Advanced Typing - Shortcuts (1943)

      Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.

      Correct typing posture: fingers curved<br /> arms sloping up<br /> light fast strokes<br /> steady rhythm

      fast continuous motion of return lever<br /> using backing sheet (aka temping sheet ??)

      Shortcuts:<br /> mise en place for office supplies (she doesn't use this phrasing though) - greater efficiency - cuts down on searching

      tabulators can be helpful. There are two types:<br /> - automatic - handset

      Use tabs for paragraphs, dating letters, columns of numbers, and letter closings.

      To clear all tab stops, put carriage to left, hold tab clear key and move the carriage across. (Usually applies to Royal, Remington, Underwood, and Electromatic).

      On LC Smith and Woodstock machines sometimes have a tab clear lever on the back.

      Decimal tabulator keys help to align a variety of numbers around a decimal point. 09:43

      Always have a few tabs set to prevent a flying carriage which can be hard on the machine.

      When using carbon sheets which are slightly longer than the paper size, cut off a small triangle at the top left hand side. This makes it easier for one to separate the carbons from the copies by holding the top left with one hand and pulling the carbons out from the bottom of the stack.

      To align multiple sheets of paper for carbon copies, use a folded sheet at the top to taco the pages into the machine. Remove the folded sheet once the carbon pack is rolled forward.

      Paper bail rollers should be set to split the pages into thirds (for two rollers).

      Remington noiseless machines have a pressure indicator on the front of the machine (usually above the keyboard) which can be used when using thick carbon packs that may cause the ribbon guide to stick or bind.

      Only erase when the carriage is fully left or right to prevent eraser crumbs from falling into the machine. 15:26

      Use a soft eraser on carbon copies. Use and insert slips of paper behind the carbons and allowing them to stick out the sides, erasing from back sheet to front so as not to allow the eraser to mark your carbon copies. For the front sheet, use a shield and ink eraser and erase with a horizontal motion. After erasing, easily pull out the inserted sheets.

      When typing a correction, tap the key lightly two or three times rather than hard once.

      When in a rush and it's necessary to add a word (on double spacing), underline the last letter of the prior word and type a slash (/). Then move the typing line up and type the insertion above the prior line. This creates an "arrow" of sorts for the inserted word.

      Details for inserting extra letters in misspelled words using half-spacing machines. (Underwoods and Electromatics don't have this function.)

      Light pencil marks at the bottom of the sheet can help to indicate the coming bottom of the sheet.

      Putting up the card holders (fingers) on Underwoods and Royals. They help to hold the card and improve print quality and reduce noise.

      Card holders can cause markings on carbon packs if they're not lowered.

      Trick for quickly writing postcards in succession: Disengage the ratchet using the platen spring release (or variable platen switch) Type the address on the front of the card. When done give the platen a quick practiced spin. The postcard with "jump" up and stop at the paper table and be in position for rolling in the opposite direction to write the message on the back of the card! When done a faster spin of the platen will shoot the card over the back of the typewriter where it can land in a box to collect all the postcards which were written in such a manner. <br /> timestamp 23:22

      Time saving methods for addressing envelopes:

      • Front seat principle. Insert the envelope in the usual way and type out the address. When done, turn the envelope down through the machine with the right hand. With the left hand, place the next envelope between the top of the first envelope and the front of the platen. Feed the first envelope back through the machine (in reverse) and the second will be rolled in to place for typing. Continue in this fashion until finished. All the finished envelopes will stack up in the back at the paper table.

      • Chain feeding. The first envelope is inserted and rolled partway into the machine. A second envelope is inserted between the platen and the second envelope (behind the platen). Turn the first envelope to the writing line and type the address. Take out the first envelope and insert the next the same way as before.

      • Uses paper bail. Do the first envelope in the usual way. Spin it out of the machine up and behind the paper bail into a box behind the typewriter.

      For quickly doing labels or small cards:<br /> Create a small zig-zag fold into a piece of paper to create a pocket slot which can be scotch taped on either side. This template paper can then be inserted so that the pocket is visible above the writing line, but the paper below it is still in the platen. The label or card can be placed into the pocket and the platen reversed to feed the label or card in backwards to the desired typing line. Using a v-groove or hole in the typing line can create a pencil line to serve as a guide for inserting many labels at the same place so that the typing lines up between labels.

      Some offices had special platens for holding cards like this.

      Pockets like this can also be used to hold the page to add additional lines at the bottom of pages. Deeper pockets may need to be used for doing this with carbon packs whose carbons are longer than the pages.

      Alternately one can do something similar by creating a inverted u-shaped set of slits into an index card. to hold such labels.

      When in the midst of a page and needing to do another piece urgently, roll back the letter until about 2 inches from the top, and then place in the new page and one between each of the carbons. Then roll forward to do the short message as necessary. Turn back to the insertion position to remove the copies and then continue with the first letter where you left off.

      For drawing horizontal lines on typewriter paper, push the carriage to the extreme left and place the pencil or pen at the edge of the card guide and the scale. Then move the carriage to the right to effect the line. For vertical lines, put the carriage at the desired space and place the pencil at the card guide and scale and move the platen up/down as necessary.

    1. reply to u/UsefulLength9143 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ruew5h/royal_p_this_isnt_pics_font_is_it/

      Looking closely at the slugs with letters, several clearly have a "P" foundry mark which was commonly used in this time period to identify Royal's "Royal Pica" face (see: https://typecast.munk.org/2011/04/24/1964-nomda-blue-book-royal-font-styles/) which was the generic name they gave in their catalogs to this particular pica (pitch) typeface. Similarly a foundry mark of "E" was often used to represent their 12 pitch "Royal Elite" typeface. Surely it's the case that the designer had some other name for this typeface, but I've never seen Royal documents which specify anything other than Royal Pica or Royal Elite.

      While it certainly helps to see the rulers on the carriage to doublecheck, one can guess the exact typeface in this instance solely by the foundry marks, though this is not always the case for a wide number of manufacturers.

      Generally people are right in asking to see the ruler as the difference in width of slug on a 10CPI and 12CPI machine is on the order of 1/64 of an inch which is incredibly hard to discern visually on photos like these without something to use for scale.

    1. reply to u/Ripraz at tk

      I analogize typewriters to cars: there really isn't a "beginner friendly" option, they're all just cars or typewriters. This being said, how well built and engineered they are and some of the smaller optional features or "trim lines" can differ a fair amount. With typewriters, one of the biggest trim differences is the tabulator (does it have one and how do the controls work? If you're a screen writer, you really want one, but if you're doing other general writing, you can get away without one typically.)

      With Olivetti, you're probably going to find peak typewriter manufacturing and materials from the 1930s into the early 1970s. The best stuff is likely in the 50s and 60s where their design chops are also the strongest. Their stuff in the mid-70s and after becomes more plastic and isn't as solid (eg. Lettera 35).

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/olivetti.56.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Some suggestions: <br /> Standards: Graphica, Linea 88<br /> Portables: Studio 42, 44, 45; Lettera 22, Lettera 32

      Be sure to take a peek at the individual typewriter galleries and individual machines in the database to see the shifts in design over time, if that interests you.

      This comparison/review on YouTube, of which there are surely others, is pretty solid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW6Ji275FdE

      As a beginner, you might appreciate skimming through Dr. Polt's book before or after buying a machine:<br /> Polt, Richard. 2015. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press.

    1. reply to u/KingCollectA at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rpr1ha/got_quite_lucky_finding_a_free_olympia_sg1_had_to/

      Typically the SG1 has at least 3 serial numbers. Two matching ones on the main body (one hiding deep inside), and the third on the bottom portion of the carriage, which may or may not match the other two. (The carriages were meant to be easily swappable for machines with the same CPI/escapement sizes.) Removing the carriage will usually reveal the body serial number (typically a 7-XXXXXXXXX) format which you can compare with the grid of serial number ranges to see where yours fits in at https://typewriterdatabase.com/olympia.61.typewriter-serial-number-database.

      I just got mine and have finished most of its servicing, though one or two small adjustments remain for it to be where I want it to be. Beyond this, it's been spectacular. See also: https://boffosocko.com/tag/Olympia-sg1/

    1. Addressing a COMMON FLAW in the Olympia SM7 typewriter that will ruin your day. Drawband Tab System<br /> by [[HotRodTypewriter]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-03-03T23:41:58

      Remedies for frozen tab brake system on Olympia SM7 typewriters:<br /> Drill a hole and lubricate<br /> Remove all together<br /> Remove and attempt to adjust swollen cork and then attempt to reinstall (patience testing)

    1. It indicates the motion or distance between upper a lower case letters on the typeface.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/olympiasg1/posts/1506621080656301/

      also:

      Greg Riutzel:<br /> That's how I see it. I measured it once. I put the ribbon in stencil, typed a lower case "h" and marked approx where the top of the type slug was on the paper. Then repeated with an upper case "H". The marks were just a tad over 7.5 mm apart checking with a rule. No precision of course but close.

      The number printed on the ring in the basket of Olympia typewriters, just above and to the left of the word "De Luxe" is the distance from the baseline of the bottom slug character to the baseline of the top slug character.

      In many instances it will be 7.6. I'm curious what other typefaces show and if this thesis holds?

    1. Nakajima All (中島オール) went bankrupt back in 2019. (Not to be confused with the Nakajima Aircraft Company.) https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO41025530X00C19A2X12000/ https://newswitch.jp/p/17807 Archive of the now-defunct website:(https://web.archive.org/web/20180816074211/http://www.nakajima-all.co.jp/) Someone might've bought the equipment from the Nakajima All factory in Indonesia and is still pumping out new ones (since the electronic typewriters Swintec sells are rebadged Nakajima All ones), but I'm not completely sure.

      via u/discardedaccounted at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1meum7j/new_typewriters/

    1. On an SG1 and an SG3 here, the right margin stop locks the printing keys as expected at x characters after the bell but not the spacebar nor tab, which both ring the bell and then blow right past the margin stop. Additionally, when the End-Of-Line lock stops the printing keys, I can continue spacing past the margin and then after about three spaces on the SG1 and about eight on the SG3 the printing keys are again active.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=27528#p27528

    1. Although the 'Mazac' tab. brake shoe problem is common, I cannot say that I have seen this before on an SG1 margin.  Interestingly, there is a similar 'exploding Mazac' problem on the ribbon reverse arm of the Olympia Model 8 post-war.  The factory probably had no idea at the time that this 'easy to die cast' metal would do this in years to come.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32384#p32384

      re: cracking house on tab sets for SG1<br />

    1. Olympia SG1 1953-72 cleaning (technical restoration)

      Partial/very modest teardown and cleaning of an Olympia SG1. Only beginner level. No flush of machine or real blow out.

      Interestingly he uses a steel brush to get rid of the brown adhesive where the felt used to be, but doesn't replace it.

      Also demonstration of cleaning corrosion off of screw heads with steel brush on a vice.

      Carriage work starts at 06:17. He opens it up and then gives up after a modest wipe down. He does show some

      Uses a toothpick to oil the joints, but only shows a modest portion of the process.

  3. Feb 2026
    1. I'm at eleven typewriters now, with ten in working order and one that is a toy. I gave two machines away for free, and I sold one to a workmate for the same amount of money that I spent on it. My intentions to acquire and keep them changed through the three years of me being into typewriters. It started with finding a broken SG1 in the trash at the side of the street that I was able to repair. Then I was looking for a use for it, because it had found a place in my heart. I found two other machines in working order, also in the trash at the side of the street, of which I am keeping one and I have one away because it wasn't my liking. I received one as a gift from my brother-in-law that was owned by his grandfather, which is a very nice machine that makes it easier to keep for sentimental reasons. Then there is another machine that once belonged to my long-gone grandfather, which I keep for sentimental reasons and its nice techno pica typeface. This list keeps going on. So, there's a mixed bouquet of reasons I make up to keep machines and why I just can't give that specific piece away. I know I'm a hoarder, but the size of the machines keeps me in certain limits. Is it consumerist? Well, yesn't. I must admit, I would love to own a chocolate script Olympia SM3, and yes, I do like to show off my four different typefaces. I am looking to find a sixties SM9 to find out what the fuss is about in comparison to my late seventies SM9. But on the other hand, nothing beats the satisfactory achievement of finishing another three pages letter for one of my daughters. I hope they will read my lines one day and hear their daddy's voice through the paper that I touched before them and the imprints that my muscles caused. It is a piece of me, turned into ink on paper, that remains. And it is some obsolete tech that I curated/used/liked/hoarded, that will probably go into steel recycling after I'm gone.

      brief typewriter bio for u/andrebartels1977 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r3udld/thoughts_on_the_hobby/?sort=new

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rfkptq/morgan_freeman_talking_about_his_typewriter_in/

      THE MAGIC OF BELLE ISLE (Magnolia Pictures, 2012) features an Underwood standard at about the 31 minute mark.

      Morgan Freeman says: "Look at that machine. I like that you have to write a bit slower on a manual. Like the way it sounds. I like the way that the letters bite into the paper. I like that you can feel there's a genuine human being, doing the work."<br /> (doublecheck the exact quote)

    1. Mineral spirits are perfectly safe for key buttons. It's critical to make sure the solvent you're using really IS true mineral spirits, though.Other solvents, such as those billed as "laquer thinner" are NOT safe for plastics. That includes acetone, xylene, and any solvents containing them. I have heard that Selectric III keys are resistat to laquer thinner, but I still wouldn't use it even on a III. Laquer thinner may be applied VERY carefully after the full mineral-spirits bath using a syringe or small squeeze bottle for specific metal pivot points such as interposer pawls that tend to get extra-stuck from dried-out lubricants.

      via Rick Becker at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214

    1. That's just a post-war one. Rheinmetall typewriter factory was situated in Sömmerda, Thuringia (so far from Rhein), this way it become a soviet-owned company after 1945 and before it was returned to newly created GDR. A lot of these machines were produced to be supplied to USSR as kind of reparations payments. The layout also proves this. Here's an experimental "ЭУКЕН" layout, one of transitional variants on the way to modern "ЙЦУКЕН" (since 1953). While all the pre-war typewriters were built with 1918 layout "Й1УКЕН"

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rbydwu/soviet_era_typewriter/

    1. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10162847550852775&set=p.10162847550852775&type=3

      Olympia quality control sheets had sections for:<br /> - shift (Hh Hh Hh)<br /> - type specimen for all the characters<br /> - Black ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Red ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Stencil Test <br /> - Final Proof: "Olympia-Qualitaet findet in der ganzen Welt Anerkennung - sie verbuergt besseres Schreiben."<br /> - Line Spacing: the letter "m" at all settings<br /> - Back Spacer: "rrrrRRRR"

    1. reply to u/Yiqu at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r08q2i/buying_a_first_typewriter_for_writing/

      The first three articles you'll find under https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Market will give you a quick crash course about what to consider and look out for in your search.

      If you want to get to work, your best bet (and honestly the best value) is to get something from a repair shop that is serviced and ready to go. In the US this means a budget range typically from US$300-$600, or perhaps slightly more if they've recovered the platen which will improve your experience. Prices dramatically in excess of this often include a lot more custom work or less common typefaces which don't necessarily improve your performance (or are people selling typewriters who have less of an idea than you do about typewriters.)

      Many hobbyists here may say to get something cheap that "works", but the amount of time and knowledge you have to scaffold to do that is worth a lot of writing time, and often still requires a lot of cleaning, restoration, and potential tinkering which is even more onerous when you just want to get to writing.

      In case you haven't found them, some great resources on leveraging typewriters as distraction-free writing devices:

      And if you need some serious distraction free advice, since it's hiding as deep knowledge amongst a handful of serious collectors/writers, the bigger your (standard) machine, the more visual space it takes up as you're writing and subtly helps your concentration. Similarly placing it in front of a wall (and not a window) helps a lot too.

    1. Royal Typefaces from 1967 WOMDA

      • Royal Farnsworth - 11 pitch
      • Royal Pembrook - 11 pitch
      • Windsor - 10 pitch
      • Oxford - 11 pitch
      • Merit Elite - 12 pitch
      • Merit Pica - 10 pitch
      • Canterbury Elite - 12 pitch
      • Canterbury Pica - 10 pitch
      • Graphic Elite - 12 pitch
      • Graphic Pica - 10 pitch
      • Elite Century - 12 pitch
      • Contemporary Elite - 12 pitch
      • Contemporary Pica - 10 pitch
      • Executive - 9 pitch (double caps, italic)
      • Patrician - 12 pitch
      • Standard Elite - 12 pitch
      • Standard Pica - 10 pitch
      • Medium Roman - 10 pitch
      • Clarion Gothic - 12 pitch (double caps)
      • Manifold Elite, Single Gothic - 12 pitch
      • Manifold Pica, Single Gothic - 10 pitch
      • Manifold Roman, Single Gothic - 9 pitch
      • Modified Pru, Double Gothic - 12 pitch
      • Pica, Double Gothic - 10 pitch
      • Medium Roman, Double Gothic - 9 pitch
      • Small Double Gothic - 16 pitch
      • Small Elite - 14 pitch
      • Great Primer - 9 pitch
      • Farrington Optical Scanner Type 12L - 10 pitch
      • Policy Print - 10 pitch
      • Check Validation Type - 8 pitch
      • Small Spencerian - 12 pitch
      • Spencerian - 10 pitch
      • Butterick - 8 pitch (similar to Congress, but larger)
      • Large Vogue - 6 pitch
      • Small Bulletin - 6 pitch
      • Elementary Primer - 6 pitch
      • Bulletin - 6 pitch

      also has keyboard styles for Royals

  4. Jan 2026
    1. It's attempting to recreate a nostalgia for mid-century typewriters that were poorly registered, poorly aligned, typed with cotton ribbon, dirty slugs, and poorly typed. It's a generic version of a ubiquitous pica typeface. The vast majority of typewriters from that era were far better and clearer than the characters represented in the 1942 Report Font. Distinguishing the font from an actual typewriter would be trivial for anyone who regularly uses a typewriter.

      Typeface catalogs from the mid-century can be found here for some comparison: https://typecast.munk.org/category/typewriter-typestylesfonts/

      1942 Report font https://www.dafont.com/1942-report.font

      Reply to SadBeyond6201 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qqvvmd/1942_report_font/

    1. Known historical users of the Royal KMM:<br /> - John Ashbery<br /> - Russell Baker - Ray Bradbury - Richard Brautigan - Richard Brooks - Pearl S. Buck<br /> - Johnny Carson (or possibly KMG) - Norman Corwin<br /> - Frank Herbert<br /> - Helen Keller<br /> - Murray Kempton<br /> - Ken Kesey<br /> - George Washington Lee - Harper Lee<br /> - Ursula K. Le Guin - David McCullough<br /> - Margaret Mead<br /> - Dorothy Parker<br /> - Grantland Rice<br /> - Georges Simenon<br /> - Christina Stead<br /> - Tom Wolfe

      The KMM was also the typewriter featured on the 1980s hit television show Murder, She Wrote which is currently being remade in 2025/2026 with Jamie Lee Curtis.

    1. DINGMAN: Duane says that from the time he opened his typewriter shop, until about 2008, he probably repaired about 50 manual typewriters. But in 2008, something changed. His phone started ringing off the hook. Parents were calling to say that their daughters wanted a typewriter for Christmas — could they bring in an old one for him to fix up? Or did he have any for sale?JENSEN: So I asked ‘em, I said why are you interested? They said, “She watched this movie called “Kitt Kittredge.”
    1. reply to u/aleahey at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qjzgtq/remington_postal_telegraph_mill/

      On the paper guide, it definitely looks like a bend it back into shape issue.

      While your model is obviously decaled as "Postal Telegraph", it's not a traditional mill machine as those are generally marked by having no lower case characters and having uppercase only. Sometimes it was uppercase with some "filler character" (often a + on Remingtons, a ~ on Underwoods, and a double dot on Olivettis) or uppercase on both the top and bottom of the slug. Generally the zero character had a slash through it to distinguish it specifically from the letter "O".

      There are only two other exemplars on the typewriter database, so please be sure to upload your photos and data when you get a chance. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Remington.10+Postal+Telegraph.42.bmys You'll notice that one of the examplars by u/jbhusker doesn't appear to be a traditional mill while the other is. Perhaps James has some unwritten research on his Remington Postal Telegraph?

      If you sift through the typewriter database you'll find other examples and research (especially if you're looking at commentary under individual examples while you're logged in). As an example of mills from Underwood in their Western Union Special: https://typewriterdatabase.com/Underwood.Western+Union+Special.4.bmys

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qhokip/some_typewriter_customization_ideas/

      Besides, why go the AI route when there are so many already available custom and chromed machines out there? There is way more creativity in reality.

      Examples:

      And to be honest, if you're going to lay out some money to chrome a machine, why do it with a flimsy Skyriter? Find something showy, something honest, something substantial. Why not a Royal KMG or FP, a Remington Super-Riter, or a solid Hermes Ambassador?

      Nothing is more badass than Helen Gurley Brown's silver plated Royal Empress: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/hgbrownroyal.jpg

    1. Typewriter Profile: Comparing the Olivetti Lettera 22, Lettera 32, and Studio 44<br /> by [[Damon Di Marco]] of CreateX3.com on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-01-19T11:32:11

      Marcello Nizzoli designed the Olivetti Lettera 22, an ultra-portable, and the standard Lexicon 80. He used the automotive idea of press-forming steel to the Olivetti line.

      In 1959, the Illinois Institute of Technology chose the Olivetti Lettera 22 as the best designed product of the last 100 years. It also won the Compasso D'Oro Award in 1954.

      1963 Lettera 32 introduced<br /> Square keys

      1965 Olivetti Studio 44 introduced<br /> Between the standard and the portable<br /> Comes with a case, but is heavier than many portables

      Prefer original spools with spool nuts.

    1. What's the diameter of the central hole? Checking if it's 4,5, or 6mm will help a lot in identifying which type of spool it is.

      Could be made by some ribbon company like Alpad who sold Olivetti compatible ribbons/spools.

      6mm diameter center holes on spools are indicative of a Gr4 typewriter spool.

      via u/Koponewt at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qcocn1/does_anyone_recognise_this_spool/

  5. Dec 2025
    1. reply to u/14Papa19 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q0dt1e/new_to_us_remington_streamliner/

      Try spooling the ribbon manually in one direction or the other for a foot or so to get to ribbon that's not dried out and you may be in luck and not need to replace it right away.

      Ribbon purveyors: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you've got the original Remington metal hubs (which are needed for the auto-reverse functionality), keep those as they're expensive to replace. Spool your new ribbon (1/2" wide and typically comes on 2" diameter plastic universal spools) from cheap plastic spools onto your originals.

      If you don't have the original metal hubs, you can call around to repair shops for replacements (which may be the cheapest route) https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html. Ribbons Unlimited also sells these hubs with ribbon attached, but it's more expensive to do this, but once you've got them, you can buy ribbon by itself for much cheaper in the future and just wind the new ribbon onto existing spool hubs.

      Here's some useful videos which might help you out in terms of how to spool up your ribbon:<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTFM54VKKc4 (Slightly different model to yours, but same spool mechanisms) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWQTa4b7jPs (This one has some advice about using a Remington without the spools.)

      If you needs some tips on color matching your typewriter to a desk or your fountain pen: https://boffosocko.com/2024/03/22/acquisition-remington-streamliner-196x-portable-typewriter-in-metallic-mint-blue/

      For more on use and maintenance: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Good luck and happy typing!

    1. reply to u/rawbran30 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1py74mf/internet_hype_trendeffect_and_brand_popularity/

      Olympias were imported into the US from the 50s into the 70s and were manufactured at peak typewriter engineering and manufacturing methods before machines slowly got cheaper and cheaper in terms of materials and craftsmanship through the 60s and into the early 80s before typewriters were subsumed by the word processor market.

      Compared to Smith-Coronas and Remingtons of the 50s and early 60s (their peaks), Olympias are slightly better manufactured in terms of fit and finish. They're also slightly more modern looking in terms of body shapes and colors compared to other machines, which also helps to drive up price amongst collectors.

      Now is an Olympia SM3 or SM9 really so much better than a Smith-Corona Silent Super that they should enjoy an almost 2x jump in price for an unserviced model? Potentially not, but if this is your issue, then buy something from a professional shop that's been cleaned, oiled, and adjusted and a lot of the price differential evaporates.

    1. Reply to u/banksclaud at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1pf09vb/please_help_surprise_my_son/

      Etsy can often have people flipping machines without having any work done, so be careful on what price you're paying for what you're getting. If it's over $350, it ought to fully serviced and have some sort of guarantee. Otherwise, find something at your local repair shop: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      This question is asked so often, I've written up some good general advice which should apply to your child: https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/29/first-time-typewriter-purchases-with-specific-recommendations-for-writers/ For the age and your desire not to be bulky, go for a portable machine and not a larger standard or the more finnicky ultra-portables.

      Some might opt for the brighter colored typewriters for kids for the "fun" factor, but I've found, having done a few type-ins with a huge variety of machines, that it's often the adults that are drawn to the colorful machines (which tend to be less well-built and plastic-y/cheaper) while kids will respond well to the older, duller vintage machines.

      Here's a few 1950's advertisements directed at parents of kids just for fun: <br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTrkDa-GuSI<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOIRul7pXDY

  6. Nov 2025
    1. Royal KMM basic introduction

      Looks like a post-war standard Royal KMM, sometimes best known as the machine used by Jessica Fletcher in the TV show Murder She Wrote (as well as the upcoming Jamie Lee Curtis reboot.)

      Richard Polt has you covered for the manual and some repair manuals/information.

      Some contemporaneous videos on use and maintenance may help.

      As for ribbon replacement, try this video. The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on 1/2 inch wide universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse. If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these spools or you can get them (and ribbon) from a local typewriter repair shop.

      Ribbon purveyors: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I prefer Baco and Fine Line for their spectacular pricing and quality.

      Other known historical users of the Royal KMM:

      • John Ashbery
      • Russell Baker
      • Ray Bradbury
      • Richard Brautigan
      • Richard Brooks
      • Pearl S. Buck
      • Johnny Carson (or possibly KMG)
      • Norman Corwin
      • Frank Herbert
      • Helen Keller
      • Murray Kempton
      • Ken Kesey
      • George Washington Lee
      • Harper Lee
      • Ursula K. LeGuin
      • David McCullough
      • Margaret Mead
      • Dorothy Paraker
      • Grantland Rice
      • Georges Simenon
      • Christina Stead
      • Tom Wolfe
    1. https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1p42tr1/typewriter_ribbon/

      It's a small metal ring/hub that fits onto the ribbon spindle. You can call around to repair shops for replacements (which may be the cheapest route) https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html. Ribbons Unlimited https://ribbonsunlimited.com also sells these hubs with ribbon attached, but it's more expensive to do this, but once you've got them, you can buy ribbon by itself for much cheaper in the future and just wind the new ribbon onto existing spool hubs.

      Here's some useful videos which might help you out: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTFM54VKKc4 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWQTa4b7jPs (This one has some advice about using a Remington without the spools.)

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1oouq6o/chrome_typewriters/

      • Gorham silver-bodied Corona portables made for the Christmas season of 1931

      Gold plated machines: - Royal Quiet De Luxes - Olympia SM3

      Most of the rest of the machines out there were aftermarket cleaning and restoration related work.

      Marketing:<br /> The Corona was one of a number that were plated in 24 K gold for a Luis Vuitton marketing campaign

    1. This is something for the category of 'most interesting things found inside of a typewiter'. As I was inspecting and preparing to test a new-to-me SC 5LE, when I opened the ribbon cover, I saw this. I wish I had taken a better picture of what i looked like after I got the shell off of the machine, but I was pretty intent on getting it outside and making sure it wasn't inhabited. I ID'd it later as a mud wasp/mud dauber nest.

      via Patty Perkins at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10162788538859678/

      mud wasp/mud dauber nest in a typewriter<br />

  7. Oct 2025
    1. There were at least two different mechanisms that S-C used to regulate the Power Space and I am unfamiliar with one of them. Start by taking off the bottom panel so you can see what's going on. Operate the power space while watching what is moving and then you should be able to understand what's involved. The system That i know switches out the regular escapement regulation (the dogs activated by key and spacebar linkages) for an independent one wherein the dogs are instead controlled by a fat rubber finger that gets diddled by a yoke that is powered by the otherwise free motion of the carriage. That's when it is working. Now, tho, it's not right. Most common fault is with the pivot for that linkage. See if that yoke feels sloppy. There is a white plastic screw with a divot in the inner end to hold and allow adjustment of the bearing of the yoke. That pivot screw is threaded through a hole in the frame and locked with a metal locknut and the thing loosens over the decades, allowing slop in controlling the dogs. If you're lucky the threads can be coaxed into holding a fresh adjustment. Do not force or overtighten it. Incidentally, the speed of the Power Space action can be adjusted by the position of that yoke hitting the rubber finger; that should not need adjustment, but keep it in mind. Your cause could be something else, but the normal operation of the escapement working with the keys and spacebar indicates that the escapement is basically OK. Cleaning never hurts, though.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1oi6808/space_runs_too_fast_with_loud_buzzing_sound_plz/ reply via u/ahelper

    1. Wershler-Henry does not confine himself to human users of the typewriter. He also tells us about monkeys, as in the hypothetical question “If you put a bunch of monkeys in front of typewriters, how long would it take them to compose the works of Shakespeare?” This question originated as part of the theory of probability, and it has been tested. According to Wershler-Henry, the world record for Shakespeare-reinvention belongs to the virtual monkeys supervised by Dan Oliver, of Scottsdale, Arizona. On August 4, 2004, after the group had worked for 42,162,500,000 billion billion monkey years, one of Oliver’s monkeys typed, “VALENTINE. Cease toIdor:eFLP0FRjWK78aXzVOwm)-‘;8.t . . .,” the first nineteen characters of which can be found in “The Two Gentlemen of Verona.” Runner-up teams have produced eighteen characters from “Timon of Athens,” seventeen from “Troilus and Cressida,” and sixteen from “Richard II.” Did these monkeys get federal funding?