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  1. Last 7 days
    1. https://typecast.munk.org/2011/04/24/1964-nomda-blue-book-olivetti-font-styles/

      Olivetti type styles from the 1964 NOMDA Blue Book<br /> - Olivetti Bulletin (5 pitch, 3 lines/inch)<br /> - Olivetti Giant Primer (alternate) (5 pitch)<br /> - Olivetti Comet (10 pitch)<br /> - Olivetti Distinctive Pica<br /> - Olivetti Distinctive Pica Heavy Face<br /> - Olivetti Elite Gothic Heavy Face (10 pitch)<br /> - Olivetti Elite Correspondence Gothic (10 pitch)<br /> - Olivetti Esquire (10 pitch, 5.4 lines/inch)<br /> - Olivetti Pica Gothic Shiftless Alphabet<br /> - Olivetti Pica Victoria<br /> - Olivetti Stymie<br /> - Olivetti Wide Elite Victoria (10 pitch, 5.4 lines/inch)<br /> - Olivetti Distinctive Elite<br /> - Olivetti Distinctive Elite Heavy Face<br /> - Olivetti Elite Stymie<br /> - Olivetti Elite Italic<br /> - Olivetti Elite Stymie Heavy Face<br /> - Olivetti Stymie Heavy Face<br /> - Olivetti Stymie Gothic<br /> - Olivetti Universal Pica<br /> - Olivetti Monza (10 pitch), script<br /> - Olivetti Esteem Pica<br /> - Olivetti Pica Gothic<br /> - Olivetti Elite Victoria<br /> - Olivetti Esteem Elite<br /> - Olivetti Financial Gothic<br /> - Olivetti Financial Gothic Heavy Face<br /> - Olivetti San Serif Elite<br /> - Olivetti Universal Elite #468

    1. Robert Caro Reveals Details of His Final Lyndon Johnson Biography<br /> C-SPAN's Book TV

      Caro outlines the entirety of his book before he starts writing. He puts his outline onto paper which he tacks up onto cork boards across his office wall.

      Caro writes everything in longhand first then types/revised it on his Smith-Corona Electra 210.

      Caro only gave Gottlieb a piece of his LBJ bio draft when he ran out of money and needed an advance. Otherwise, he doesn't give his editor material until he's done.

      Caro lives on the corner in Central Park West

      Caro was on the 22nd floor (of 29) at 250 W. 57th Street for 22 years and wrote 3 books in a one room office. Joseph Heller had an office there as well.

  2. Jun 2026
  3. May 2026
    1. Like most Hermes Rocket/Baby typewriters, mine no longer had feet on the bottom. You can purchase 3D-printed feet at various places, but I went with the silicone grommet/cap route and found a perfect fit. These are rubber caps meant to replace the cushion on the bottom of certain furniture. The holes on the bottom of the typewriter are 6mm in diameter. These plugs fit tight, provide a slight lift, and a slip-free typing experience. I did have to trim off the tops a bit to fit the body back in, but that's all inside the typewriter when put together. These were a pack of ten for $6 USD (or .60 each).

      via u/ksigler at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1t5resr/replacement_feet_for_a_hermes_rocketbaby/

    1. You might try slowly pressing a key. Does it reach the platen? Or do you need to strike it normally, as during typing, for it to hit the platen under its own momentum?

      The Royal 10 QX (aka Quiet Model) (1921-1923) has a special mechanism in the segment which allows the slugs to hit the platen when struck, but pressing the keys slowly doesn't allow them to reach.

      Via commentary by Brian Decker, Ted Muk, and James Grooms at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1927-royal-10.16643.typewriter

    1. reply to u/Novembree at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hfncyz/had_a_typewriter_for_awhile_could_use_help/

      Welcome to the Royal KMM club! Seems like lots of these have been posted in the last day including one by u/betternatured and another by u/the-other-gusta along with a very similar Royal KMG by u/Jacki-san.

      The serial number puts yours down as a KMM with an 11 inch platen manufactured in 1945. Cross reference: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

      These were really popular and ubiquitous, standard (large desktop) typewriters in the mid-century that were the workhorse of many offices. Because they were so common and so heavy, they only go for $5-25 in the used market in either unknown or marginal condition. If they're cleaned up and well-serviced they can go for more with a cap of around $300-400 depending on the level of restoration. Some with special features (like special typefaces) or provenance may go for more.

      The Royal KMM was known to have been used by writers including: John Ashberry, Harry Ashmore, Russell Baker, Ray Bradbury, Richard Bratigan, Richard Brooks, Pearl S. Buck, Johnny Carson, Norman Corwin, Frank Herbert, Ken Kesey, G.W. Lee, Harper Lee, Ursula K. LeGuin, David McCullough, Margaret Mead, Grangland Rice, and Dorothy Parker. This was also the model famously used by Angela Landsbury's character on the TV show Murder, She Wrote.

      Depending on your level of typewriter knowledge try out some of the following short films which will also provide some tips, tricks, and maintenance advice common in the era of your machine:

      Happy Typing!

    1. Repyy to u/bluestemgrass at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1thup7q/reink_ribbon/ RE: Ribbon for a toy Sears Holiday typewriter.

      Before you go too deeply here, is the ribbon made of cloth material (nylon, silk, or cotton) or is it a plastic film/carbon type?

      If it's the latter, is it a proprietary cartridge or typewriter spools? What width is the ribbon? Cartridges with carbon can be difficult if not impossible to find for these models.

      It looks like it may be a Sears rebranded version of some of the Byron Jardine/PETITE toy typewriters. https://typewriterdatabase.com/no_info.525.typewriter-serial-number-database There may be an imprint of the manufacturer on the bottom which would help to identify the original manufacturer.

      Most Petite typewriters use T4430 or T4431 ribbon (1/4" wide or 6.50mm) which can sometimes be found on eBay and other sites. It generally requires original spools. These were generally carbon/plastic based ribbon.

      If you have the original spools, you might find someone who still manufactures carbon-based ribbon and you can cannibalize it to spool onto your Sears Holiday. Look around for some of the 80s/90s film-based cartridges meant for word processors.

      If it did originally have cloth ribbon you might be able to re-ink it, but the process typically tends to be very messy. Generally some glycerine and ink meant for metal stamps (not rubber) will get you where you'd like to go. Some have also soaked their old ribbon in WD-40 as a means of rejuvenation, but this is also time consuming and messy.

      More detail/photos of the manufacturing details on the bottom and photos and measurements of the spools and the original type of "ribbon" will help immensely.

      If you get the chance, add your example to the typewriter database and include photos of the spools as well as measurements of their width and diameter to help others with these questions/problems in the future.

    1. That Pigeon Looks Just Like Michael Keaton<br /> The Late Show with Stephen Colbert

      Definitely a late model Olivetti. Either a Studio 45, which was more common in the United States, or a Studio 46, both of which came in that color.

      I'm leaning toward 46 because of some of the shape of the hood as well as the white variable button on the platen which I've only ever seen on the 46 while the 45s were typically black or had the button colored to match the body color.

    1. Congratulations and welcome to the club! Definitely the machine of a serious writer or novelist. These were the workhorses of newspapers and magazines through the 70s and 80s. In my mind, it's the last truly great manual typewriter ever manufactured.

      Well known users of the Olympia SG3 included: Ingeborg Bachmann, Jimmy Breslin, Paddy Chayefsky, Philip K. Dick, Harlan Ellison, Michael Ende, Howard Fast, Jim Lehrer, Elmore Leonard, William E. Leuchtenburg, Terrence McNally, James Michener, Dudley Randall, and Wallace Stegner

      Robert Redford used one in the movie ALL THE PRESIDENT'S MEN.

      img

      If you need a manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      Ribbon is still easily found: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      The Olympia SG3 uses 1/2" wide (12.7mm) typewriter ribbon, which has been standardized as DIN2103, in combination with the Group 1 spool, designated as DIN 32755. (Doesn't need eyelets.)

      Other useful resources available at: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      reply to u/Prudent_Highway_1855 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1tdy2eu/my_first_typewriter/

    1. You could sew two different ribbons together and set a grommet in the seam. That's basically how the original 4-color ribbon is. Even with the original ribbon you had to wind the ribbon to the middle and undo the ribbon from the vibrator and swap the side the middle grommet is on to change the color.

      Via Ted Munk at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1969-sears-medalist-power-12.24661.typewriter

    1. the front panel’s paint and decal were very matte, and had signs of yellowing outside the decal. Everyone who has dealt with a Royal 5 (in particular) might know a case of this illness: the paint appears dirty and uneven with some yellow, grainy stuff around the decals. You cannot clean over decals too much: the golden color will go away to reveal silver, and eventually you will destroy the decals completely.But I had heard that that yellow stuff, on some machines at least, was shellac: that the decals were originally applied and then shellacked. For some reason, on the Royal 5 in particular, the shellac had a tendency over time to dry and become apparent and grainy.
    1. It turns out our friend Tom has been scoring games with a typewriter since at least 2013!

      Keeping score at a baseball game with a typewriter is not only possible but is also a much more detailed record of the match. (ORTEGA. Full count! Fouled back three in a row ... OH, THAT BALL’S LANDIN’ WHERE THE FANS ARE STANDIN’!!! Walk. Off. Home. Run. Thanks for your attendance and drive safely.) —Tom Hanks in "I Am TOM. I Like to TYPE. Hear That?" on Aug. 3, 2013 in the New York Times https://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/04/opinion/sunday/i-am-tom-i-like-to-type-hear-that.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

      cc: u/lou_spirito<br /> u/Informal-Writer-1140<br /> u/oogieball<br /> u/joe_skidiachi_irl

      Other examples of his scoring efforts: - https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jn2475/yes_tom_hanks_does_schlep_a_typewriter_to_ball/ - https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jm0l8k/tom_hanks_keeps_score/ - https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jm4pie/tom_hanks_scorecard/

      Posted at https://reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1tb7fbw/tom_hanks_scoring_baseball_games_via_typewriter/

    1. reply to u/LillieLogang at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1tacody/light_touch_jcpenney/

      Before you go too deeply here, is the ribbon made of cloth material (nylon, silk, or cotton) or is it a plastic film/carbon type? And if the latter, is it a proprietary cartridge or typewriter spools? Cartridges with carbon can be difficult if not impossible to find.

      There's only one Penny's toy typewriter in the database currently which may give you some idea: https://typewriterdatabase.com/1970-jc-penney-j6772-toy-typewriter.11484.typewriter I don't see these pop up often, but there is a related one listed on SGW right now: https://shopgoodwill.com/item/263548866 which may have some unused "ribbon" you might cannibalize if necessary.

      It looks like it may have been a rebranded version of some of the PETITE toy typewriters. https://typewriterdatabase.com/no_info.525.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Many of these toys are difficult to adjust or fix (if at all), but they tend to be very simple in terms of the mechanics, so you might be able to puzzle out what isn't working and why by looking at it with the hood removed.

    1. reply to https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10161712887224678/

      to Steve Clancy Zach Hubbird Jean Brunet

      I'm curious what the sourcing is on your differentiation of the two models? Are there manuals, advertising, or other details to back up the differences? From what I can see, the phrase "Rhythm Touch" seems to have been an advertising tag for the Underwood SS which started a few months after production of the SS began and there wasn't any difference in them other than the advertising tag.

      Robert Messenger has some scant history on the machine and the differences, primarily due to a redesign at the time, at https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_25.html. The primary change from the S to the SS seems to have been a move from a carriage shift to a basket shift and so it seems somewhat fitting that Underwood uses the phrase "Rhythm Touch" as an advertising gimmick much like Smith-Corona were doing with their "Floating Shift" marketing.

      Generally standards at the time were not differentiated by different trim lines as standards had all the bells and whistles for office use (potentially aside from custom use cases like decimal tabulators or extra wide carriage). Meanwhile all the trim variations were generally seen in the portable market geared toward home use rather than office. This would seem to support the idea that there's only the SS and "Rhythm Touch" is only an advertising tag line as the SS was newly introduced in January of '46 and "Rhythm Touch" appears around July '46.

      There's also some discussion on the TWdB in the commentary at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1950-underwood-ss.23202.typewriter which may add to the question.

      I'm curious to hear everyone's thoughts on the idea/thesis that the only model is the Underwood SS which is being marketed as the "Rhythm Touch" or evidence to the contrary to refute the claim.

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. Both have the same serial again. Resellers like this are not doing any favours for the community. Brooksaw: https://www.ebay.com/itm/318227695061 Kyle’sLost&Found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/157839087546

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1t0569c/brooksaw_at_it_again_another_service_worth_2800/

      The typewriter community not appreciating Brooksaw Antiques buying a typewriter for $200 and then, upon receipt, posting it for $2,800 as "near mint" without any servicing beyond cleaning the slugs.

  4. Apr 2026
    1. In the hopes of helping those seeking to remove the body/shell/jacket* of a Corona Zephyr (1938, in this case), I've created a step-by-step process based on my recent experience. (\The user manual from the 1930s refers to the machine's body as a "jacket.")* The steps are: Remove the two screws underneath the keys at the front of the machine (holding the typewriter to the base of the body. 2, 3, 4. ON EACH SIDE, remove the screws at positions #2 & #3 and the lug nut at position #4. Don't remove the screw at position #4 as it's not necessary & will be difficult to set back in place. Remove the back lower panel of the body to reveal the screws at position #5. Remove the screws at position #5 from EACH SIDE of the machine. Using a thin piece of cardboard (I used the cardstock from a cereal box) or a stack of a few pieces of paper, depress the top row of keys so that they'll slide under the body as you slide it forward. Slide the body forward, slightly lifting the back end to help guide it out. Work slowly & gently, keeping an eye on the keys to ensure that they are not getting caught on the body & that nothing is getting crushed, scraped, or scratched as you work. Continue gently & carefully sliding the machine out of its body. A view of the body without the typewriter within. Note that it is a single piece and the top & bottom do NOT separate. Good luck! ALSO: this guest post from Garrett Lai on Richard Polt's Typewriter Revolution site has a good approach for aiding in the sliding of the typewriting in & out of the body by making some plastic skids to avoid scraping/scratching during movement: https://writingball.blogspot.com/2020/06/guest-post-disassembling-smith-corona.html If you want to get any Corona Zephyr servicing details from the source, be sure to see Theodore Munk's post which includes his insights along with a copy of the original "1938 Corona Zephyr Typewriter Service Adjustment Methods" manual: https://typecast.munk.org/2023/02/11/1938-corona-zephyr-typewriter-service-adjustment-methods/

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1srswu6/removing_the_body_shell_of_a_corona_zephyr_1938/

      Details for removing the jacket of a Corona Zephyr.

    1. i got a hermes 3000

      Sarah treated the internal felt of her typewriter by spraying it down with white distilled vinegar. This kills any living molds, etc. Vodka is also good for removing scents on typewriters (and vintage bags).

      The variable line spacer is inside the platen of a Hermes 3000.

      The carriage of the H3K comes off with the removal of two bolts.

      For rust removal Sarah starts with a wire brush then does PB Blaster for more.

      Replace rusted springs.

      Fingernail polish for a H3K:<br /> - Sally Hansen Insta-Dry line "Time is Money" (discontinued?) - Expressie Essie quick dry "In the Modem" (closest in her opinion) - Sinful Colors Eucalypta - Blank Beauty (color match to Hermes Ambassador) - Orly (meh, too green)

      The case doesn't remove intuitively.

    1. reply to u/Greydusk1324 about the difference in Royal Standard typewriters at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1skmfum/comparing_royal_standard_desk_machines/

      I'm (sorry?) to report that the internals of the Royal standard typewriters including the Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc. are all incredibly similar if not exactly the same over several decades. The biggest change is probably the introduction of Magic Margins with the KMM. The margin release button also moved down to the keyboard around this time as well.

      Most of the rest are smaller, subtle differences in how the ribbon reverse mechanism is done or things like keytops changing from glass and acetate to plastic, the threading design of the ribbon vibrator, as well as the external design and some of the other small fit and finish. Some of the much later models allow one to remove the entire chassis from the body of the typewriter to make cleaning and servicing easier.

      There are certainly differences in type-feel and "weight" in the changes in the keytops, but broadly they're all mostly the same machine. The biggest differences between them all (for me) tend to be how well they've been maintained and/or been cleaned and adjusted. One seriously well adjusted Royal is better than any 20 other random Royal standards you might pick up for a fraction of the price. Of course, if you're doing your own wrenching work, then once you've learned one machine well, the rest are a breeze to work on and bring up to snuff.

      If you think there's a huge difference between your KMM and KMG (which are probably the two closest models), then perhaps it's worth it to try some others? The biggest difference may be the FP which has chunkier key caps that have more effect on the "feel". The HH and many of the other later models have thinner key tops. The Ten is probably the most different from the rest. The H, KH, KHM are what I would call "experimental" models moving toward the perfection in the KMM and KMG.

      Context: I'm an owner of a KHM, 2 KMMs (including a 47+ pound, 18" wide carriage), 2 KMGs, 2 HHs, half a dozen FPs (in all the colors but Willow Green), and a 440. This includes a variety of their standard pica and elites, a Clarion Gothic, and a Pica Double Gothic. Stylistically I love the KMG and the FP, but my KHM has one of the most satisfying "actions" of any of the machines I own.

      Of course, all this depends on what sort of collection you're aiming for. I love a good Royal and have a smattering of other makes and models, but I am slowly working toward a completist picture of Royal Standards. I do try to add machines that have a unique typeface or other feature as I add more of them to get some additional depth and breadth to my collection.

      If you're a collector with limited space, then pick up the best looking design(s) (for your personal aesthetic) and rest easy that you're not missing too much. You can also pick up new machines to curate for a few years and then move them along to other collectors to enjoy so that your collection is always changing.

      You might get some more detail and nuance by watching Joe Van Cleave's YouTube channel where he's done a few dozen videos on Royal standards as well as comparison videos over the past several years.

      Good luck on your hunt!

    1. I've always wanted an Olivetti Valentine and recently purchased one. To my surprise, there is a metal commemorative marker on the back that reads, in English, "Commemorative Edition. 31st Anniversary. 1965-1996. Special Anniversary Edition. 179/250". This was surprising because 1) the Valentine was released in 1969 and 2) production ended in 1975. From the reading I've done online, it seems like production lingered in Mexico, but 1996 seems very late.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1sg32qw/help_with_olivetti_valentine_mystery/

  5. Mar 2026
    1. reply to u/Vibeuel_ at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1s7lfdu/i_hate_loving_typewriters/

      He used Chapstick as a heavy grease to hold ball bearings in place to re-insert the carriage and ball bearings into a Royal Arrow.


      Sorry you went through this insertion of ball bearings into a Royal in this manner. For the future attempts, there is a re-creation of a custom tool for doing this sort of operation which also includes some repair manual details: https://www.m-morren.nl/product/17071027/royal-bearing-guide-ball-feeder-tool

      Lucas Dul also has a video that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_PONcT8HHI as well as some discussion of using straws at the 21:40 mark in this video: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

    1. I've had the same issue after taking mine completely apart. I can see the the a is too high, and the o and p are too low. This will happen the the type guide isn't in the correct position, and on your machine, it looks like it needs to be adjusted to the right, to bring the left side of the kb down, and the right side up. It's a fiddly process, and a small adjustment makes a big difference, so take it slow. Use the q and p keys as they are further apart on the segment. Give it a try and come back here to show the results.

      via u/guneeyoufix at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1s6irjx/can_someone_help_me_with_unaligned_letters_on_my/

      as a reply to u/Fit_Artichoke_8668 with respect to unaligned letters on a Corona 3 typewriter. The typing line of the lowercase was very wavy (up and down), so not simply a case of on feet or motion.

    1. Congratulations and welcome to the club.

      For some insane reason, the majority of typewriter collectors like 15-20 pound machines that fit into rectangular cases. This means that the value of fantastic machines like yours which are fully featured, better engineered, and which will last centuries aren't as high. With a solid clean, oil, and repair, this is the sort of machine that can do nearly everything you could want from a typewriter. This is a true writer's machine. I've got about six of these around in various colors as well as typefaces and type sizes.

      Yours is a Royal FP made sometime between '57 and '62 and can be more closely dated using the serial number under the hood and comparing with the database.

      Historical users of the vaunted Royal FP include the likes of Herb Caen, Peter De Vries, Stephen King, Melissa Ludtke, Frank O'Hara, and Morley Safer. Amongst many other appearances, this typewriter was also used by Sgt. Joe Friday in the TV show Dragnet, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (S5, E2), and was in the opening scenes of Miami Vice when Crockett first meets Lt. Castillo.

      Your manual, should you need it: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalFP.pdf

      Joe Van Cleave has a solid video intro and review of it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOnQRBo7YqA.

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMDfGkKqbgE If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these spools, but it's much cheaper to just buy 1/2" ribbon on cheap plastic cores or bulk ribbon on cardboard hubs and wind your own on by hand.

      More resources: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Reply to u/zoke10 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1s3mngq/thrift_store_find/

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ktb7ty/what_are_the_rules_of_typewriter_club/?sort=new

      The Rules of Typewriter Club

      The first rule of Typewriter club is Do not oil the segment.

      The second rule of Typewriter club is DO NOT oil the segment.

      Do not ask the value of your typewriter: they are invaluable.

      Always talk about typewriter club. Every chance you get: to family, friends, complete strangers...

      If you only have one typewriter, you must refer to it as "my FIRST typewriter".

      If you're new to typewriter club, you have to type.

      A typewriter is not broken unless it is clean and broken.

      Parts of a typewriter should only be removed in order to repair another typewriter.

      Keychoppers shall have the extremities they used to chop keys chopped off.

      More than one machine is allowed to be your "favorite".

      The last typewriter you bought is the greatest one. Until the next one.

      Never leave a typewriter outside, in a barn, or in a damp basement to rust.

      Typewriters are to type with. They should not be "flipped".

      Any reason is a good reason to buy and use a typewriter.

      The hardest part of typewriter repair is believing you can do it. Everything else is just instructions plus a careful, thoughtful hand. —Rt. Rev. Theodore Munk

      If you see a typewriter, you should take photos and upload the details to the TypewriterDatabase.com.

      Typewriters are not mood setting decor, they are meant to be used.

      Always leave a typewriter in better condition than you found it.

      We form things; we do not "bend" them.

      The only acceptable way to dispose of a typewriter is to find it a new home. The only exception is in dire circumstances in time of war when one should follow the guidance of the Underwood manual and "Smash typewriters and components with a sledge or other heavy instrument; burn with kerosene, gasoline, fuel oil, flame thrower, or incendiary bomb; detonate with firearms, grenades, TNT, or other explosives."

      If anyone asks you about your typewriter, you must spend at least five minutes talking to them about it.

      Legitimate typewriter sellers never use the phrases "it works" or "it just needs a new ribbon."

      Remember that typewriters are dangerous and can be used for samizdat. As Woody Guthrie wrote: "This machine kills fascists."

      Blessed are those who give typewriters to children for theirs is the Kingdom of Heaven.

      "In death, they have a name." Lenore Fenton. Lenore Fenton. Lenore Fenton!

      The Typewriter Database does not list every single serial number, just ranges of numbers and years in which they were made. You are responsible for figuring out which year your number fits into.

      "Working but needs new ribbon" is seller's code for "I have no idea if it really works, but I'm going to try to sell you this machine for the price of a fully functioning machine that was just serviced by a professional shop despite the fact that I just took it out of grandpa's barn and I'm not sure if the mouse inside is dead or not. Also, I can't afford $10 to replace an old ribbon to truly participate in the charade of the price I'm going to try to fleece you with."

    1. reply to u/Minimum__Dot1795 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rx45d7/imperial_70_can_i_use_any_spools_wanting_to_try/

      I'm not sure of the internal diameter of yours, not having used Imperial spools before, but some of the cheap plastic "Universal Spools" have removeable plastic cores that may allow you to pop them out and be compatible with your machine. The one's I've got have a 3/4" or 19mm diameter hole and are meant to be used with Remington machines instead of their metal spool hubs. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Typewriter-Typewriters-Replacement-Compatible/dp/B0D9P2P2Q7/?th=1)

    1. Congratulations. You've joined an exclusive club that includes writers like: Edward Abbey John Ashbery, Saul Below, Johnny Carson, Joan Didion, Bernard Kalb, Elia Kazan, Helen Keller, Grace Metalious, Arthur Miller, Carl Reiner, Fred Rogers, Rod Sterling, George Sheehan, and Wallace Stegner.

      I've got over 60 typewriters in my collection and the KMG is my favorite, especially when it's clean and properly adjusted. I've got one each in Royal Elite and Royal Pica typefaces they're so nice.

      KMG controls diagram: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg<br /> Richard Polt's site doesn't have a manual (yet) for the KMG, so pull the manual for the Royal KMM instead. It was the model made just before the KMG and should be functionally identical. The Royal HH which followed it was also broadly similar. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal 1/2 inch wide ribbon onto them, remove any eyeletes which aren't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMDfGkKqbgE

      Incidentally when browsing YouTube for repair videos, the mechanics of all the Royal standards (listed above) are all incredibly similar if not exactly the same, so search beyond KMG to find solutions.

      For cleaning:<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjumGF9NFE8&list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS&index=5<br /> - https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/ - The tombstone "glass" (acetate) keys are metal rings that hold a piece of acetate over a paper legend (with the key letter printed on it) onto a metal platform. Don't get liquids or water on these as it will seep inside and discolor or damage the paper legends. They're replaceable, but it requires a special tool and/or lots of patience. Incidentally, these were the last US manufactured typewriters with glass keys.

      Use and maintenance: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      If it helps, here's a link to all my posts about the purchase, history, use and some restoration pieces I've written about mine (start at the oldest and work your way forward): https://boffosocko.com/tag/royal-kmg/

      Other resources as you may need them: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Good luck!

      reply to u/Saltiend at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rwsfxp/just_bought_a_royal_kmg_any_tips/

    1. Choosing a Typewriter for Writers<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Manual typewriters for writers with a focus on machines made without needing to tinker/repair them.

      Joe primarily focuses on typewriters he actually has in his personal collection more than other potential great machines. Having been collecting for his particular purpose for a long time, he's got a pretty tight set of good recommendations.

      He's also got some good advice here about how to go about finding a machine and using professional typewriter shops to do so.

      Electric typebar typewriters with more tolerance for poor technique.

      IBM Selectrics, maintenance intensive, need carbon replacement film.

      Printwheel/Daisy Wheel typewriters. Brother, Nakajima, Swintec (components made by Nakajima),

      Ultra portable typewriters

      • Royal / Silver Seiko typewriter - no tabs
      • Olympia Splendid 33, 66, 99 - no tabs the 33 is monochrome

      Portables

      • Smith-Corona 5 Series
      • Olympia SM series: SM1 - SM9
      • Hermes 3000 series (overpriced on the used market)

      Standards

      Big and don't come with a case; will last nearly forever<br /> - Underwood 5<br /> - Royal standards, especially those that came after the 10

      Typebar Electrics

      • Olympia Reporter (Nakajima in Japan); designed in 80s for journalists
      • Royal Saturn (Silver-Seiko) one of the quietest out there; uses 9/16" ribbon; bichrome with tabs,
      • Smith-Corona Electric - first portable electric to hit the market.
      • IBM Selectric (71; manual correction)

      Daisywheel typewriters

      • Brother
      • RaRo has new Daisy wheels
      • delay between keypress and print
    1. Advanced Typing - Shortcuts (1943)

      Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.

      Correct typing posture: fingers curved<br /> arms sloping up<br /> light fast strokes<br /> steady rhythm

      fast continuous motion of return lever<br /> using backing sheet (aka temping sheet ??)

      Shortcuts:<br /> mise en place for office supplies (she doesn't use this phrasing though) - greater efficiency - cuts down on searching

      tabulators can be helpful. There are two types:<br /> - automatic - handset

      Use tabs for paragraphs, dating letters, columns of numbers, and letter closings.

      To clear all tab stops, put carriage to left, hold tab clear key and move the carriage across. (Usually applies to Royal, Remington, Underwood, and Electromatic).

      On LC Smith and Woodstock machines sometimes have a tab clear lever on the back.

      Decimal tabulator keys help to align a variety of numbers around a decimal point. 09:43

      Always have a few tabs set to prevent a flying carriage which can be hard on the machine.

      When using carbon sheets which are slightly longer than the paper size, cut off a small triangle at the top left hand side. This makes it easier for one to separate the carbons from the copies by holding the top left with one hand and pulling the carbons out from the bottom of the stack.

      To align multiple sheets of paper for carbon copies, use a folded sheet at the top to taco the pages into the machine. Remove the folded sheet once the carbon pack is rolled forward.

      Paper bail rollers should be set to split the pages into thirds (for two rollers).

      Remington noiseless machines have a pressure indicator on the front of the machine (usually above the keyboard) which can be used when using thick carbon packs that may cause the ribbon guide to stick or bind.

      Only erase when the carriage is fully left or right to prevent eraser crumbs from falling into the machine. 15:26

      Use a soft eraser on carbon copies. Use and insert slips of paper behind the carbons and allowing them to stick out the sides, erasing from back sheet to front so as not to allow the eraser to mark your carbon copies. For the front sheet, use a shield and ink eraser and erase with a horizontal motion. After erasing, easily pull out the inserted sheets.

      When typing a correction, tap the key lightly two or three times rather than hard once.

      When in a rush and it's necessary to add a word (on double spacing), underline the last letter of the prior word and type a slash (/). Then move the typing line up and type the insertion above the prior line. This creates an "arrow" of sorts for the inserted word.

      Details for inserting extra letters in misspelled words using half-spacing machines. (Underwoods and Electromatics don't have this function.)

      Light pencil marks at the bottom of the sheet can help to indicate the coming bottom of the sheet.

      Putting up the card holders (fingers) on Underwoods and Royals. They help to hold the card and improve print quality and reduce noise.

      Card holders can cause markings on carbon packs if they're not lowered.

      Trick for quickly writing postcards in succession: Disengage the ratchet using the platen spring release (or variable platen switch) Type the address on the front of the card. When done give the platen a quick practiced spin. The postcard with "jump" up and stop at the paper table and be in position for rolling in the opposite direction to write the message on the back of the card! When done a faster spin of the platen will shoot the card over the back of the typewriter where it can land in a box to collect all the postcards which were written in such a manner. <br /> timestamp 23:22

      Time saving methods for addressing envelopes:

      • Front seat principle. Insert the envelope in the usual way and type out the address. When done, turn the envelope down through the machine with the right hand. With the left hand, place the next envelope between the top of the first envelope and the front of the platen. Feed the first envelope back through the machine (in reverse) and the second will be rolled in to place for typing. Continue in this fashion until finished. All the finished envelopes will stack up in the back at the paper table.

      • Chain feeding. The first envelope is inserted and rolled partway into the machine. A second envelope is inserted between the platen and the second envelope (behind the platen). Turn the first envelope to the writing line and type the address. Take out the first envelope and insert the next the same way as before.

      • Uses paper bail. Do the first envelope in the usual way. Spin it out of the machine up and behind the paper bail into a box behind the typewriter.

      For quickly doing labels or small cards:<br /> Create a small zig-zag fold into a piece of paper to create a pocket slot which can be scotch taped on either side. This template paper can then be inserted so that the pocket is visible above the writing line, but the paper below it is still in the platen. The label or card can be placed into the pocket and the platen reversed to feed the label or card in backwards to the desired typing line. Using a v-groove or hole in the typing line can create a pencil line to serve as a guide for inserting many labels at the same place so that the typing lines up between labels.

      Some offices had special platens for holding cards like this.

      Pockets like this can also be used to hold the page to add additional lines at the bottom of pages. Deeper pockets may need to be used for doing this with carbon packs whose carbons are longer than the pages.

      Alternately one can do something similar by creating a inverted u-shaped set of slits into an index card. to hold such labels.

      When in the midst of a page and needing to do another piece urgently, roll back the letter until about 2 inches from the top, and then place in the new page and one between each of the carbons. Then roll forward to do the short message as necessary. Turn back to the insertion position to remove the copies and then continue with the first letter where you left off.

      For drawing horizontal lines on typewriter paper, push the carriage to the extreme left and place the pencil or pen at the edge of the card guide and the scale. Then move the carriage to the right to effect the line. For vertical lines, put the carriage at the desired space and place the pencil at the card guide and scale and move the platen up/down as necessary.

    1. reply to u/UsefulLength9143 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ruew5h/royal_p_this_isnt_pics_font_is_it/

      Looking closely at the slugs with letters, several clearly have a "P" foundry mark which was commonly used in this time period to identify Royal's "Royal Pica" face (see: https://typecast.munk.org/2011/04/24/1964-nomda-blue-book-royal-font-styles/) which was the generic name they gave in their catalogs to this particular pica (pitch) typeface. Similarly a foundry mark of "E" was often used to represent their 12 pitch "Royal Elite" typeface. Surely it's the case that the designer had some other name for this typeface, but I've never seen Royal documents which specify anything other than Royal Pica or Royal Elite.

      While it certainly helps to see the rulers on the carriage to doublecheck, one can guess the exact typeface in this instance solely by the foundry marks, though this is not always the case for a wide number of manufacturers.

      Generally people are right in asking to see the ruler as the difference in width of slug on a 10CPI and 12CPI machine is on the order of 1/64 of an inch which is incredibly hard to discern visually on photos like these without something to use for scale.

    1. reply to u/Ripraz at tk

      I analogize typewriters to cars: there really isn't a "beginner friendly" option, they're all just cars or typewriters. This being said, how well built and engineered they are and some of the smaller optional features or "trim lines" can differ a fair amount. With typewriters, one of the biggest trim differences is the tabulator (does it have one and how do the controls work? If you're a screen writer, you really want one, but if you're doing other general writing, you can get away without one typically.)

      With Olivetti, you're probably going to find peak typewriter manufacturing and materials from the 1930s into the early 1970s. The best stuff is likely in the 50s and 60s where their design chops are also the strongest. Their stuff in the mid-70s and after becomes more plastic and isn't as solid (eg. Lettera 35).

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/olivetti.56.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Some suggestions: <br /> Standards: Graphica, Linea 88<br /> Portables: Studio 42, 44, 45; Lettera 22, Lettera 32

      Be sure to take a peek at the individual typewriter galleries and individual machines in the database to see the shifts in design over time, if that interests you.

      This comparison/review on YouTube, of which there are surely others, is pretty solid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW6Ji275FdE

      As a beginner, you might appreciate skimming through Dr. Polt's book before or after buying a machine:<br /> Polt, Richard. 2015. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press.

    1. reply to u/KingCollectA at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rpr1ha/got_quite_lucky_finding_a_free_olympia_sg1_had_to/

      Typically the SG1 has at least 3 serial numbers. Two matching ones on the main body (one hiding deep inside), and the third on the bottom portion of the carriage, which may or may not match the other two. (The carriages were meant to be easily swappable for machines with the same CPI/escapement sizes.) Removing the carriage will usually reveal the body serial number (typically a 7-XXXXXXXXX) format which you can compare with the grid of serial number ranges to see where yours fits in at https://typewriterdatabase.com/olympia.61.typewriter-serial-number-database.

      I just got mine and have finished most of its servicing, though one or two small adjustments remain for it to be where I want it to be. Beyond this, it's been spectacular. See also: https://boffosocko.com/tag/Olympia-sg1/

    1. Addressing a COMMON FLAW in the Olympia SM7 typewriter that will ruin your day. Drawband Tab System<br /> by [[HotRodTypewriter]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-03-03T23:41:58

      Remedies for frozen tab brake system on Olympia SM7 typewriters:<br /> Drill a hole and lubricate<br /> Remove all together<br /> Remove and attempt to adjust swollen cork and then attempt to reinstall (patience testing)

    1. It indicates the motion or distance between upper a lower case letters on the typeface.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/olympiasg1/posts/1506621080656301/

      also:

      Greg Riutzel:<br /> That's how I see it. I measured it once. I put the ribbon in stencil, typed a lower case "h" and marked approx where the top of the type slug was on the paper. Then repeated with an upper case "H". The marks were just a tad over 7.5 mm apart checking with a rule. No precision of course but close.

      The number printed on the ring in the basket of Olympia typewriters, just above and to the left of the word "De Luxe" is the distance from the baseline of the bottom slug character to the baseline of the top slug character.

      In many instances it will be 7.6. I'm curious what other typefaces show and if this thesis holds?