314 Matching Annotations
  1. Last 7 days
    1. Good Enough Is Very Fine: Royal KMG Tabulator Issue by [[maryech]]

      Carriage on a Royal KMG was grinding, so Mary disconnected the spring on the brake gear for the tabulator rack to fix the issue.

      The brake gear on Royals isn't meant to be engaged during normal typing operation.

  2. Jul 2025
    1. Very sad to report that Jerry Wallace, my typewriter maintenance and repairman passed away last year. This news is new to me since I lost contact with him when he retired and moved to Northern California. What a loss to the typewriter community. I used to take my typewriters to Jerry to fix and polish up at his Salinas home repair shop.
    1. We recommend people come to our shop and type. We charge $5 an hour or you can look into our rental programs. We have a lot of people come in just to hang out and type. No plans on actually owning one, and that's fine with us. Come in, play, leave without the 10-30 pounds of metal with you lol. We also sell and service machine. Prices vary some. But all our machine have a 60 day guarantee from date of purchase. We do ship machines as well if you find something on our website that you like. Assuming you aren't near the Dayton Ohio area.

      u/Dangerous-Ratio6448 is a typewriter repair person at TB Writers Plus

    1. At our shop we know that we'll age out. Everyone does. To seed the typewriter field we have a 12 week apprentice training program. Hopefully a few get the repair mojo and open up their own shop. Or just become more adept at the hobby. I can only hope once the time comes we have someone willing.

      via u/palump at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1i1ydyz/nobody_in_boston_big_enough_to_fill_these_shoes/m7e497l/

      Bremerton Typewriter has a 12 week apprentice training program as a means of helping to create the next generation of typewriter repair people.

    1. Tom Furrier, who owns the Cambridge Typewriter Company in Massachusetts, has sold several typewriters to Mr. Cidoni and said that high school and college students have become a staple of his business.
    1. Joe Banuelos, its third owner, has run the shop for nearly twenty years. Joe’s brother, Jesse Banuelos, who works as a typewriter technician at the store
    2. Herbert Permillion, who runs California Typewriter Company on San Pablo Avenue, said he was also at a loss to explain the trend.  “I’m almost in awe to some extent, but then I can sort of understand that some people tend to reach back and some people want things a little simpler.”
    3. California Typewriter Company was opened as California Typewriter on Shattuck Avenue by  Glenn Tuttle in 1949. Permillion bought the shop in 1981 from its second owner, Joseph Mundy, at its second location on University and moved it to its current location on San Pablo in 1986.
    4. A fascination with vintage typewriters also accounts for the recent rise in sales, said Joe. In particular, people in Japan are buying typewriters built in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. The store will charge $250 to repair a classic Olivetti, but that machine can be resold for $1,000 in Japan, said Joe. “They buy them because they are antique. There’s a big demand because they are part of American history.”

      from 2011

  3. Jun 2025
  4. themechanicaltype.blogspot.com themechanicaltype.blogspot.com
    1. VOGUE by [[Lucas Dul]]

      Lucas talks about swapping out the segment and typebars of a Royal P to transplant a Vogue typeface.

      The design changed in about 1930 for a different width.

    1. Event by Indy Type Shop, Siren Hand and 2 others2621 Shelby St, Indianapolis, IN, United States, Indiana 46203Duration: 9 hrPublic  · Anyone on or off Facebook14 MAY | 11a-8p | GRAND OPENING!2621 Shelby Street, Indianapolis 46203Indy Type Shop opens its doors for regular business hours, starting 11am May 14th.

      grand opening of Indy Type Shop in Indianapolis, IN on 2025-05-14<br /> https://www.facebook.com/events/9811716722250635/

    1. Royal QDL Carriage Removal/Install-The Easy Way…do you want to fight? by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      SM7 carriage bearings won't work on a QDL-style typewriter, but Royal Diana ones will. It requires removing a pin from the tab mechanism (after loosening a side nut). There's also bilateral carriage stop nuts which require removing at least one.

    1. https://youtu.be/ciVbKWMO3xY?si=qYWgTCMm0EJivN9M&t=462

      Sarah describes the issue of slightly and accidentally forming an important piece while carrying out repairs. These sorts of repairs are incredibly subtle and require careful troubleshooting and observation.

    1. Gerren HotRod TypewriterCoThey are tough to install. It's not the taking things apart that gets you, it's putting it back together. I recommend not pulling a Royal carriage unless it's broken to the point there is no other option. If you like the color you can buy another $25 QDL and put the body on the new one. There is almost no reason to remove the carriage on these unless you need to replace it with another or swap out the main escapement

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/705152958470148/posts/1010406587944782/

      Removing the carriage of the Royal Quiet De Luxe is generally not recommended.

    1. $600 for refurbishing a machine that only cost $250 is not a great investment. I think your prices are a bit unrealistic. As far as the posts go: there are always two sides to every story🤷‍♀️

      reply to u/SisterGoldenHair70 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lbjr5f/sorry_to_say/mxz1ag2/

      I'm honestly curious about your definition of a "machine that only cost $250" is? Make/Model? Where was it bought? What is the actual condition (both cosmetic exterior and mechanical interior as well as cleanliness)? Also, what is your definition of investment with respect to how you're going to use it? Is it a display machine? Is it for display and the occasional addressed envelope or grocery store list? Or is it something you're planning on giving moderate to heavy use on a daily or weekly basis as a professional writer?

      Most typewriter repair shops won't spend more than $20 on purchasing a machine and typically they're getting machines donated for free (or for the cost of coming to pick them up); then they spend hours to clean, oil, adjust, repair and restore them for sale in the $400-600 range unless they've got rarer colors or typefaces. (At this level, you're probably not getting any new rubber at all.) The level of restoration is definitely a choice as there are restorers out there who can easlily charge in the $1,500+ range depending on how much work you want done and to what level.

      As an example, if someone chooses to spend $120-200 pus shipping on something like an old/dirty Olympia SM3 with old gaskets from an outlet like ShopGoodwill.com (the current going rate for one in unknown condition and only using photos) that is going to need several hundred dollars of repair work, that's their choice. If they don't have the expertise, it's far better to buy one outright in the $500 range from a shop. Usually people are just keeping that $120 machine and limping along with what it offers instead of cleaning it up or they attempt to do the clean up work themselves. This work may seem "free", but it's time, effort, and expense of one sort or another. Economists call this opportunity cost.

      There is a massive information imbalance in the typewriter market between buyers and sellers, because incredibly few people really have any idea of what they've got and what sort of condition it is in. This imbalance means that most professional shops are an absolute steal if you're looking for something in excellent condition that's going to be a work-a-day typewriter or be in good shape for another 50-75 years.

      As a small example, an indiviual could call JJ Short and get a platen recovered for around $100 plus two way shipping, but you take it to a shop and you're probably looking at $180 because they're going to charge you for the time, effort, and cost of knowing what to do, where to ship it, taking it off, putting it back on, and doing the appropriate ring & cylinder, on-feet, and motion adjustments on

    2. reply to u/TypewriterJustice at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lbjr5f/sorry_to_say/mxunsb6/

      I think the real crime here was the quote of $200 for all this work. $200 should just barely cover the recovered platen, rollers, and new feet with any margin. The full clean, oil, and adjust is a few more hours at $40-75/hour and that's not even getting to the parts or labor on the tougher troubleshooting and repair portions. With this rough diagnosis and potential issues, I (and many others I'm sure) would be quoting closer to $500-600 for a refurbish job at this level.

      Living in the LA area, I'm blessed to have 7 shops within a reasonable drive, but if I put a machine into the queue at most of them it'd be a two or three month's wait time at the very best. Most of them have been at the game for decades much less in the midst of also recently setting up a brick and mortar shop.

      As a point of comparison, Lucas Dul publishes his wait list on his website (currently 84 people) where he states "Average repair cost is $300-350 for general cleaning, service, and minor repairs. Average turnaround time is 2-3 weeks." Perhaps Charlie might benefit from creating a wait list and not taking machines into the shop until his time and attention can turn directly to them?

      It's not often addressed here in this fora how much one should expect to either pay or wait for repair services which aren't evenly distributed across the United States and likely even less so in many other countries. In the broader scheme of things, I think that you get a far better deal at professional shops than you're going to find within the broader public of so-called typewriter sellers (antique shops, thrift stores, etc.)

      As a point of reference, I'm an advanced hobbyist with my own garage-based shop for my personal collection and even I get one or two queries a week about repairing or restoring the machines of others, so I'm at least reasonably aware of what some of the wait times can look like. I wish I had the time or stock of parts machines to do more than a handful of friends and family repairs on top of my own personal repair work.

      Sadly, at the end of the day, it sounds like both sides were potentially not good at communicating expectations about how long repairs would take. If nothing else we should all be sharing more details about these issues to help level set how this all works for the broader typewriter community.

    1. typewriter repairman here - with magnification & needle files it is sometimes possible to reshape the squashed portion of the slug(which usually requires repositioning it afterwards to get an even print) but my advice is to embrace it as part of what makes that particular machine unique…there’s literally no such thing as perfection, and twenty years from now you’ll be able to look at something you wrote & go “ohhhh this was done on that Olivetti…” (and yes, you could also replace the slug completely, but that’s a whole different can of worms)
  5. May 2025
    1. Electric Repair Tip: Drive Belt Replacements by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

    2. these 7:36 are the ones i picked up and these were 7:38 three and three-fourths by four by 7:40 one-eighth

      Sarah Everett has used water filter o-rings of 3 3/4 x 4 1/8 to replace the drive belts of her electric typewriters.

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUYEJB2/

    3. i used a saw to just make the 6:46 one edge of that phillips head a little 6:48 bit deeper so that i could then use a 6:51 flat top screwdriver in there to remove 6:52 that screw the next time that way when i 6:55 put that screw back in there i could 6:56 remove it later just using a flat head 6:58 screwdriver instead of a phillips 7:00 now this was a little bit of a ratchet 7:02 job but it did the trick and with that i 7:04 had a working electric typewriter

      Sarah Everett suggests using a saw to turn Phillips head screws into a flat head screw if they've been stripped.

    4. i couldn't 4:50 get into the typewriter the screws were 4:52 in there so tight that there was no way 4:54 i could get that bottom off of the 4:55 machine so i did the only logical thing 4:58 i could think of i set it upside down 4:59 and then forgot about it for a really 5:01 long time i then went back in once i got 5:03 the confidence to go into this machine

      Confidence is a (the?) key ingredient of typewriter repair.

    5. i don't know 4:26 how i fixed it i kind of stabbed it a 4:28 lot with a screwdriver until it worked

      rofl!

    6. in fact almost 0:28 all of my successful repairs have come 0:30 from a lot of faith trust a little bit 0:32 of pixie dust and a lot of googling
    1. Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/


      People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.

    1. Royal Futura 800 Typewriter Plastic Key Top White Crud Removal Cleaning Servicing by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For the white, crusty out gassing (or off gassing) on plastic typewriter keys, Duane recommends a round or two of Simple Green with a stiff bristle brush. Follow this up with a scrub down using WD-40 to displace the water from the Simple Green and then follow up with denatured alcohol, which is safe on plastics, and a wipe down with a rag to dry.

  6. Apr 2025
    1. https://akblongs.nl/

      Per Pelicram, AKB Longs does platen recovering for typewriters in Europe: Send an email to rollen@akblongs.nl Prices are about 40€ + VAT for portable platens + shipping both ways

  7. Mar 2025
    1. Jim Riegert, now in his 70s, remembers what it used to be like. "Back then, typewriters were pretty big. Typewriters and adding machines," he says, referring to desktop calculators. "It got really difficult in the typewriter business about 25 years ago," he says. "The internet was coming on and killing us, too." He runs Typewriters.com and, despite a decline in sales in recent decades, he still shifts four or five electric IBM typewriters every week.
    2. Paul Lundy, who runs Bremerton Office Machine Company, a typewriter repair business in Seattle.
    3. another customer clutching an old typewriter will walk into Mike Marr's shop in Pawtucket, Rhode Island.
    1. the lever for later machines was connected with a different sized pin, which makes finding donor machines challenging as pins from the more common newer machines won’t fit the older ones.
    2. It also interesting to note that loss of the carriage return lever is apparently a common problem on Studio 44 Series Is and Series IIs.
    3. Ole Kehlet of Kehlet Typewriter in Sacramento
    1. His low rate, $68.50 regardless of the problem, allows Smitty to enjoy the process of fixing a typewriter for its merit rather than its profit. As he simply states, "I'm doing this to stay alive."
  8. Feb 2025
  9. Jan 2025
    1. Royal Quiet De Luxe after ultrasonic cleaning, blow drying, and lubrication with mineral spirits, Blue Creeper, and a dash of gun oil.

      I read this as a mixture of mineral spirits, Blue Creeper and a bit of gun oil which is applied after cleaning as a means of lubricating a typewriter.

    1. Hi, it depends on the shop and the person doing the work. I diagnose for a flat fee of $20. For manual machines, general cleaning and service is billed at $165 with repairs at $65/hrs plus parts. Teardowns and restorations are billed purely hourly. This job is a total of $1,100 with the teardown as well as a frame weld. The welding required parts prepping, gas fees, post processing... and took about 5 hours total. The rest of the machine is about 15 hours so far. Still have about four to go. So yeah, I'm technically supposed to bill another $400 or so, but I'm going to let that slide since the client is already paying a lot for a machine worth way less. Typewriter repair is expensive, especially when it's done to the level of detail that I go to. Very few shops put this much care and attention into these machines. All that being said, the average job on a manual typewriter at my shop usually runs around $300. Full clean, and usual repairs

      Typewriter Chicago / Lucas Dul rates: - Diagnosis for $20 - Manuals: general cleaning and service: $165 - repairs at $65/hour plus parts - average job on manuals runs around $400 - teardowns and restorations billed purely hourly around $55/hour

      This example is $1,100 for 5 hours of frame/welding work and 15 hours of tear down, cleaning and re-assembly. He'll likely go 4 hours over, but is discounting it.

    1. Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

      Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

      Basic Tools

      • screwdriver sets
        • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
        • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
        • long reach screwdriver
        • magnetic screwdriver
        • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
        • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
        • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
        • grab hooks
      • pliers
        • standard needle nose pliers
        • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
        • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
        • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
      • Mechanics' wrench set
        • prefer cast ones
        • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
        • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
      • Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
      • Tweezers
      • Blowtorches
        • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
        • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
        • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
      • Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
        • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
      • MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
      • strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
      • knife (butter knife)
        • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
      • flashlight (simple is fine)
      • marker (Sharpie)
        • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
      • hammer
      • retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
      • Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
      • Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

      Intermediate Tools

      • segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
      • drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
      • carpenter's pencil for marking

      Advanced/Specialty tools

      • t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
      • 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
      • peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
      • wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
      • eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
      • files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

      Very specialized

      • Type slug solder jig or solder guide (30:52)
      • keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
      • multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

      Honorable mentions

      • center punch for drilling points and new screws
      • dental mirror for looking into machines
      • spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

      Q&A

      air compressors are useful for cleaning

      Don't damage screws on older machines.

      US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

      3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

  10. Dec 2024
    1. Royal Quiet Deluxe Typewriter Cuts Off Top of Letters Ribbon Lift Adjusted, Repaired Character Print by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      If the tops of one or two individual letters is being cut off, it may require forming of the letter's assembly to have it engage with ribbon lift bar a tad earlier.

      This is different in form from an on feet adjustment.

    1. (Some summary of ring & cylinder adjustments based on other notes)

      A new platen in many cases will help to solve some of the proximal problem, but you'll still have heavy wear on your paper/ribbon and your new platen over time as a result. The first adjustments a pro typewriter repair person would make after installing a new platen would be to check the ring & cylinder, on feet, and motion which can all be subtly out of alignment with a new platen.

      Pretty much every typewriter in modern era has adjustment points for this. All three of the machines you name definitely do. You'll find some of the basics and adjustment points for several machines described at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1945-AMES-OAMI-MechanicalTrainingMan.v1-ringcylinder.manual. If you look at the manuals for specific machines that Ted Munk has collected at the typewriterdatabase.com, you'll find how/where to make those adjustments. Several on Polt's website describe the adjustment as well: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Some sources may describe the adjustment as hammer and anvil as opposed to ring and cylinder.

      You're also likely to find YouTube videos on them as well (I'd check Phoenix Typewriter's channel first, though I do recall he mislabeled one once on a S-C Skyriter which was really an on feet/motion adjustment.) Duane's also got a really subtle and uncommon adjustment on a Royal QDL here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOET0i3DsR8

      Gerren gives an adjustment nod for the Olympia SM series here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2jnC6ODB834&t=670s And here's a blogpost about the adjustment points for an Olympia SF: https://ber10thal.com/blog/repairing-a-1961-olympia-sf/

      Related blogposts from Munk for a Brother JP-1:

      Hopefully your machines and hardware appreciate the finer adjustments and wear better over time as a result.

      Happy typing!

    1. The last adjustment I needed to make is sometimes called ring and cylinder. It moves the platen closer or further from the typebars. I think the rubber on the platen over time dried and shrunk a bit. I used this adjustment to move the platen closer in order to get a better type imprint. (note: you have to loosen two screws on each side of the carriage [4 screws] in the next photo before making this adjustment.)
    1. If there is enough room (at least 1.2mm), I use micro paracord to replace drawbands. It has no flex or stretch, can have its knot sealed with a little heat, is tested to 100lbs, and is pretty cheap for more than you’ll probably ever need. I have used Atwood micro cord purchased from Amazon for my projects.
  11. Nov 2024
    1. If you've been dreaming of plunging into this profession, consider the success of Paul Lundy, who took over Bremerton Office Machine Company from nonagenarian Bob Montgomery; or Antony Valoppi, creator of Portland's Type Space, which combines a traditional typewriter shop with a cultural center; or Trevor Brumfield, a young man in his late twenties who has quickly built Dayton's TB Writers Plus into a busy enterprise.
    1. https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/fillers/fil-stik-putty-sticks/

      Putty sticks (aka paint sticks) are good for filling in nicks and dings on furniture.

      These putty sticks and some crayons are also great for restoring the colored index lines on typewriters as well as other colored metal parts and occasionally on some plastic typewriter keys.

      M231-10104 SYY Red<br /> M230-0054 Crimson Rose #SN292<br /> M230-0046 COCONUT, COTTON, BRIE, HEAVY CREAM, SNOWFLAKE <br /> M230-0090 Picket Fence

  12. Oct 2024
    1. Typewriter Basics: Carriage Locks by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Sarah describes having a common spacebar issue when repairing a typewriter, bending the spacebar down which causes the machine not to work/advance as a result when it's put back into the typewriter shell.

      Sarah also shows some type bar benders, but doesn't demonstrate how she (or her father) used them to do the repair.

    1. Royal Strengthen Shift Springs KMM Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      I picked this up from a repair manual, but good to see my reading was correct.

      Forming the tabs on the shift assembly inwards will increase the tension and responsiveness of the shift assembly on older Royal standard typewriters.

    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

    1. Royal KMM KMG Typewriter Feet Spacers Original Smashed Rubber Replaced by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Squished rubber feet spacers on the Royal standard typewriters can cause interfere with the universal bar and when they do, they'll need replacement.

      This is the same sort of interference seen on Olympia SM3s due to their squished/flattened rubber gaskets, though the symptoms are different.


      "Phoenix typewriter. Have a Royal day!" <br /> A slightly different sign off from Duane's usual... :)

    1. Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

      A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I've compiled and consumed over the last six months, so don't be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month of reading and researching.

      Basic Introductory Material

      Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you'll remember where you found the random information you're bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

      Work your way through Sarah Everett's excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      Read Richard Polt's book which is a great overview to the general space:<br /> Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

      Next watch the documentary California Typewriter. Documentary. Gravitas Pictures, 2016. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5966990/. It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you're headed off to.

      Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it.

      Basic restoration advice: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      On colloquial advice for degreasing, cleaning, and oiling manual typewriters https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Repair Manuals

      Create an account on typewriterdatabase.com which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs.

      They also have some openly accessible material like:<br /> * https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php

      Printed manuals: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&contributor=Ted+Munk&page=1&pageSize=50 PDF manuals: https://sellfy.com/twdb

      Ted Munk's website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful * https://munk.org/typecast/

      Richard Polt's list of service manuals, which also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Tools

      In rough order of increasing complexity:

      Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

      Videos

      Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

      While watching a variety of videos is great, as you're doing specific repairs search YouTube and you're likely to find full demos of the repairs you're doing yourself.

      I've compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

      If you're not a good typist or don't have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

      Internships & Apprenticeships

      If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can't spend the time on an internship. You'll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they're parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

      Podcasts

      Some useful Bibliography

      Good luck on your journey!


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gaza5x/learning_typewriter_maintenance_and_repair/

    1. Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

      This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

    1. Sanding and polishing the keys on my Smith-Corona Silent Super. A lesson to all, use foil when using PBlaster to clean, not a rag. It still melts plastic when it soaks through the rag…

      All the videos on YouTube are generally of mechanics who are covering things up for a quick operation (like cleaning slugs) and not for longer cleans. This can be misleading for those who are doing longer term work where the rags need to withstand more liquid or are sitting for longer.

    1. The nuts on the ribbon selector and the ribbon reverse on Royal Quiet De Luxes is a 7/32 inch nut.

    2. Royal Quiet DeLuxe Typewriter Complete Total Body Removal by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Gerren uses a Weaver gunsmith screwdriver set for most of his screwdriver needs. [5:00]

      On the newer QDLs two of the screws for removing the rear plate are accessible from the top underneath the carriage instead of all on the rear.

      The screws for the front body plate can be loosened and don't need to be fully removed to take the body plate off of the machine.

    1. When doing type alignment, Duane Jensen was taught to use an old/used ribbon instead of a new, wet/dark ribbon for better performance in testing. New ribbons don't show the differences as well.

      He's noticed that ribbon from Around the Office are dreadful.

    1. Hot Rod Mercury - Repaired ! Royal Typewriter Made in Japan Not Spacing Troubleshoot and Fix. by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      There was a loose assembly underneath the carriage that was preventing the vibrator from working and the carriage from advancing via typing. Tightening it up fixed the issue completely.

    1. Soderbeck tells us about a recent job that took 40 hours to complete. He ended up charging the customer just $50.

      "Well, I already gave him an estimate," he says with a chuckle. "I'm not gonna change that quote, I've been here too long to do that."

      It seems like an unwritten rule for typewriter repair shops to go way over on time versus pay to repair a typewriter based on an initial quote.

      I've seen at least one other quote like this, but don't think I collected it.

    2. "Business went right to nothing, hardly," he remembers. "As soon as that computer hit the price of under $2,000, that was the end of the typewriter business—80% of the business was gone in three years. When I started there was 27 little shops like this in the Twin Cities, and there was 47 before that."
    3. Vale Typewriter from Ray Vale, who had helmed the stout brick building since it was constructed in 1957.
    4. 11-month typewriter repair program

      In 1974 there were 11-month typewriter repair programs to train typewriter repair technicians.


      Compare this to Philly Typewriter's 4 year internship program: https://hypothes.is/a/LSbZtlboEe-4vtMPIWcTKA

    1. I just got a 1950 version of this KMG this week in medium rough shape too. (My 7th Royal and my 2nd Standard)

      Looks like a Royal KMG with the Henry Dreyfuss glass tombstone keys in Gray Frieze paint. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.KMG.72.bmys

      Mine has some minor carriage issues that I'm hoping clear up with some cleaning. Otherwise it may need some tools and internal repair work and/or parts. If yours is generally working, a good cleaning and oiling should get you going: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Diagram of parts: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg

      Manual of the prior model KMM which preceeded it, so the functionalilty should be almost exactly the same: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf (Royal Standard internals were almost exactly the same from the Ten (1909) through the FP/Empress (1966).)

      Home Study Course in Typewriter Repair and Service: ca. 1959, published by the Typewriter Repair School in Little Falls, New Jersey. Focuses on the Royal KMM among others: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/homestudycourse.pdf

      See also:<br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.royal-repair.manual - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.royal-parts-01.manual

      Searching on YouTube for cleaning and repair advice should help out a lot. Phoenix Typewriter has some solid videos on related models (search also the Royal X (ten), KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, and Empress which are all roughly the same internals with slightly different body styles.)

      If you need some basic typewriter 101, try: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      reply to u/MajesticWear5478 https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g1i440/tips_for_cleaning_and_fixing_a_1949_royal/#lightbox

    1. I’ve currently only fixed the platen and reconnected the space bar. Issue I’m having is the letters are really faint and cut off almost half way through.

      Often after you resurface a platen, it slightly changes the configuration of the platen with respect to the typeface. As a result one usually may need to do three adjustments in a specific order to get things to align properly again. These can definitely be done at home with some patience.

      Usually the order for tweaking is: * Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good). Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. * On Feet adjustment (vertical adjustment so that letters are bright and clear and neither top or bottom of characters are too light/faint) Repair shops will often type /// or a variety of characters with longer ascenders/descenders to make sure that the type is clear from top to bottom. * Motion adjustment (the lower and upper case letters are at the same level with respect to each other) The best way to test this is to type a center character like HHHhhhHHH to see if they line up on the bottom (the last three Hs are usually done with the Shift Lock on to make sure that's properly set).

      You can search YouTube videos for your model (or related models) and these words which may uncover someone doing a similar repair, so you have a better idea of what you're doing and where to make the adjustments.

      Here's Joe Van Cleave describing some of it in one of his early videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0AozF2Jfo0

      The general principles for most typewriters are roughly the same with slight variations depending on whether your machine is a segment shift or a carriage shift. You should roughly be able to puzzle out which screws to adjust on your particular model to get the general outcome you want.

      Related blogposts: * https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/<br /> * https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

      You might find a related repair manual for your machine with more detail and diagrams for these adjustments via the Typewriter Database or on Richard Polt's typewriter site.

      For those not mechanically inclined you may be better off taking it onto a repair shop for a quick adjustment. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html 

      Reply to u/Acethease at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1d76ygx/got_a_as_a_gift_corona_3_recentlyish_and_i_need/

  13. Sep 2024
    1. I twist together two lengths of kevlar fishing line that's 0.4mm diameter and rated for 29kg, so combined roughly 0.8mm diameter and ~58kg pull. This is about the sweet spot imo in terms of thickness, slim enough to fit in small routing holes on mainspring housings and thick enough to get a good sized knot when you tie it. It's also pretty close to the thickness of old sinew drawbands I've replaced. The rated strength is definitely overkill but better over than under. In practise a drawband shouldn't experience more than 750g-1,5kg of pull under normal use.

      u/Koponewt aka Pelicram's advice for using fishing line to replace drawbands.

    1. delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.

      Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.

      Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.

    1. Joe Van Cleave hypothesizes that the slightly blurry and/or ghosting letters on typewriters may be the result of the typebar just hitting the typing guide and moving slightly as they do thereby creating issues with the type clarity.

      https://youtu.be/GpLpTkhSGWc?si=MFmshF-LPPa1CyUP&t=1190

  14. Aug 2024
    1. Colloquial repair solutions for hard platens: <br /> - use backing sheet(s) - light sanding and cleaning with organic solvents - Brake Fluid soaking for an hour followed by drying time (see also: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html) - Rubber Renue https://mgchemicals.com/products/electronics-maintenance/specialized-cleaners/rubber-renue/ - Methyl salicylate and alcohol mixture - Sanding and/or lathing and resurfacing with heat shrink tubing and/or by bicycle inner tube

      Actual repair/restoration/recovery:<br /> - J. J. Short Associates, Inc. https://www.jjshort.com/typewriter-platen-repair.php

      see colloquial advice at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ewb36f/rubber_renue_to_soften_platens/

    2. This has been an ongoing "philosophers stone" in the repair community for a long time. Hard platens are the result of the rubber losing its moisture, there's virtually no way to fix that long term. Brake fluid, rubber renew, even the wintergreen oil trick only temporarily soften platens/feeds. They will absolutely go back to their former state after a time. (1-2 months) You can sand the exterior and clean with organic solvents to restore grip and improve the original platen, but recovery is really the only long term fix. *There's a ton of back and forth about the sanding method, particularly from the old timers being salty about it. But I have seen HUNDREDS of old platens in machines that have absolutely been sanded by repair folks back in the day, so there's definitely value in the process.
    1. The case FOR WD-40 use in typewriters by [[Thom Cholowski]] in Antique Typewriter Maintenance Group

      Some thorough colloquial and unreferenced, but reasonably scientific advice about the use of WD-40 to clean typewriters, particularly with respect to water displacement.

      Once used for cleaning typewriter internals, WD-40 needs to be flushed out with kerosene or naphtha.

    1. Common Typewriter Problems and Fixes

      A short pictorial primer for quick repairs of many common typewriter problems including:<br /> - stripping a typewriter<br /> - cleaning and oiling - carriage not moving<br /> - ribbon reverse not working<br /> - bell not working - characters out of alignment<br /> - inconsistent margin<br /> - space bar jumping/inconsistent

  15. Jul 2024