https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/56p9zt/royal_quiet_de_luxe_backspace_fix/

reply to u/MirageAnne at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mgmwkq/remington_rand_17/

There are two general types of "sticky keys": 1. sticky going up 2. sticky coming down

Sticky going up

For stickiness slowing down the typebar (on the way up or down), it's likely that you've got oil, dirt, dust, or other sludge in the segment of your machine. You'll want to flush out your segment with some solvent and potentially blow things out with compressed air to remove the source of the friction.

While you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

When you're done, it's common wisdom that one should NOT oil the segment.

Sticky going down

If your typebar(s) are sticking due to friction at the typing point, then they need some gentle forming to the right or the left to prevent them from rubbing on the typing point so that they can fall back down to the type rest. The two videos below will help describe and demonstrate the symptoms as well as the repair. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrlt6VyC8D0&t=485s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arspyq1w4Iw

Other considerations

It's much less common, but once everything is clean and properly aligned, if you're still seeing sluggishness, it may be the case that the spring on the individual key has broken or become disconnected which prevents it from returning back to the type rest.

https://youtu.be/qrlt6VyC8D0?si=yHjByRVLa2BMYt-4&t=485

Description of typebars sticking at the typing point and needing forming to repair them.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1713118022537412/posts/2146096495906227/

Diagrams and photos of how several latches and locks are put together on typewriter cases.

https://mytypewriter.com/collections/qwerty/products/hello-qwerty-replacement-keytop-disc-set

follow up reply:

After some additional research on the typewriter database, the YY = 92 (where the serial number is of the form: FP[P,E,S]-XX-YY-#######, where XX is the platen length and YY is for other special features) indicates that the machine has 46 character keys (and thus 46*2=96 glyphs on the slugs). There are also examples of YY=88 with 44 keys versus the standard 42 or 43 keys.

This means that your machine has a few extra keys not found on their standard keyboards at the time.

After some continued research on the TWdB, I've come to realize that the "88" in the serial number has likely nothing to do with the palm tabulator.

The 88 is for an extra character count due to more keys (44) versus the more standard 42 or 43 keys and similarly some examples with a 92 in the serial number corresponds to 46 characters. So there isn't a designator in the serial number for a palm tabulator.

See: <br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1961-royal-fp.22586.typewriter<br /> - https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kg820b/just_bought_this_typewriter_for_10_at_a_charity/<br /> - https://amsterdamassassin.wordpress.com/2018/12/16/typecast-my-royal-fp-steampunk/

https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kdjy9u/anyone_have_internal_pictures_of_the_hermes_3000/

https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kbp3bb/corona_3_with_case_key/

Corona 3 cases had very straightforward keys with a simple 1-2mm numb at the far end.

quote via the reliable u/ahelper

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jvgm5z/feed_pawl_not_engaging_ratchet/

via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jgg4kh/royal_kmm_extra_column_of_keys/miyumvn/

https://www.amsterdamtypewriter.com/en-us/products/typewriter-key-inserts-universal?variant=49394561876302&_pos=1&_psq=glass+key&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Amsterdam Typewriter began selling these around 2024-09-24: https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3869850413252379/

One set consists of 45 normal keys (12.2mm) + 4 shift keys (16.2mm)

Yanni Giftakis recommends melting crayons into the letter groves of typewriter keytops to replace their missing paint with a heat gun, much the same way D&D players will fill in the groves on their dice.

This is similar to Richard Polt's recommendation "To restore faded paint on keys and scales, try Lacquer-Stik Fill-In Paint."

via https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3831371387100282/

On many of the older 40s/50s typewriters, the same key will work on almost everything. If you search online there are a few people who have posted a 3D printable key that you can download and may be able to print at your local library. I'm guessing based on the limited photo, yours is an early 40s Smith-Corona.

I've tried a few local locksmiths who don't seem to carry these keys anymore.

I've got a late 40s Smith-Corona latch that occasionally self-locks and for ages I used a bent paperclip in the rough shape of the old keys to easily pick the lock with just 10 seconds of jiggling around inside. Roughly a 2 mm straight section of paperclip with a 1mm "T" section that sticks out (even just on one side) about 4-5mm and then continues straight ought to work if you're in a jam.

The level of security these keys/locks provide is minimal at best.

If you go the online route to buy a key, they can be quite expensive, so if you're a collector, just wait for a machine that comes with one and you'll have another typewriter for "free" in the deal.

reply to u/Succu6us66 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1eqk6rd/typewriter_lock/

Distinguishing Ukranian vs. Russian typewriter keyboards

via u/lexkiri at https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1eloo76/russian_american/

reply to u/Deep-Seaworthiness48 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e5gh4p/two_5_keys_sc_poweriter/

Things like that happened on alternate language/region typewriters. I've got a Dutch keyboard layout that repeats a % symbol twice.

It's likely that the pound symbol was needed/required so they pulled one from a pre-existing typeslug and key cap on a keyboard where the £/5 key was common and replaced the 1/! which in the era was widely known could be done by alternate means (aka lower case 'l' and '.' backspace '''.

The value of the £ was more important to the typist and because of typeface manufacture was probably easier to do in the £/5 existing combination from something like the English No. 1028, International No. 1060 keyboard, the Brazilian No. 1065, or the Danish No. 1047 all of which paired the £/5. See also: https://munk.org/typecast/2023/02/03/1954-smith-corona-scm-typewriter-type-styles-and-keyboards-catalog/

Off hand, I don't see another S-C keyboard combination from that time period that had a £ paired with any other glyph/character. In the "change-a-type" time period they likely wouldn't have done a custom black key for the £/5 when they were already manufacturing one in a matching white. If they didn't also swap out the key at the far right end of that bank, I would expect it to be a standard black '+/=' key cap and slug.

1960 Union Foundry Typewriter Type Slug Specifications – To Type, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth… by [[Theodore Munk]]

Type Shop, Ep. 15: The Ultimate Keyring Toolset Guide by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

Charles Gu's new keyring pliers for about $500 for a set are as good as if not better than vintage tools. In particular the new rubber pieces seem to help protect from breaking the original glass key tops which will then require replacement.

Tips for Removing and Installing Olympia SM3/SM4 spring loaded typewriter keys by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

For yellowed glass keys on typewriters, there's usually a key top covered by a piece of paper with the key glyph on it which is sandwiched in with a small piece of glass and a metal ring that holds it down with several metal tabs underneath the key to hold it all in place. There are custom keyring pliers for quickly removing and replacing the papers which needs care not to crack the glass. Otherwise you can manually bend the metal tabs on all your key rings to remove them and replace the papers. (This is generally a LOT of work either way.) See: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1csni4d/neat_find_on_clients_kmg/

I prefer the yellowed patina of the older key papers, so I tend to leave them versus spending the time and effort to replace them.

Keyring pliers are used to remove the metal rings off of both circular and tombstone glass typewriter keys so that the legends can be replaced or even covered over with black paper circles for teaching or learning typing. They take some practice and skill to use, but speed up the replacement of legends significantly.

Wiping dirty plastic typewriter keys with a soft cloth and then waxing/buffing them can bring them back to life.

Smith Corona Vintage Typewriter Straighten Chrome Ring Keytops Twisted Crooked Letters Repair by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter Sticky Keys Segment Flush Clean by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/2rru4x/where_can_i_buy_the_key_to_the_case_of_a_smith/