Easy access to your Super-Riter and later Typewriters – To Type, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth… by [[Ted Munk]]

https://www.austintypewriterink.com/typewriters-201-general-maintenance.html

Kasten, R. M. “First Aid for Typewriters.” Popular Science Monthly, May 1941.

Interesting that Kasten recommends against oiling the carriage rails of portables and standard machines which run on ball bearings.

dry cleaning solvents in 1941 were likely Varsol or Stoddard's Formula.

compare to trichloroethane<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/EyBIAFXAEe-AcP-Atlj_aQ

Note discontinuation of carbon tetrachloride<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/bfdi_I90Ee-OQLN0HpsE7Q

Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1f3b3gg/whats_molykote/lkckuwc/

Molykote BR2<br /> Shell grease 6430<br /> Molykote A Depot Fat Technical white oil

Mobil grease 28 (replacement for IBM No. 23 grease in IBM Selectrics) contains clay thickener which many greases don't have Mobil 1 0W-30 (or 0W-20)

See also: https://archive.org/details/olympia-sge-30-spare-parts-catalog-german/page/n23/mode/2up

https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1efngq3/why_do_people_hate_to_use_oil_so_much_even_though/

Keep humidity for typewriter storage under 50%:<br /> - at 50% or more humidity untreated iron will rust - at 80% or more untreated steel will rust

Part 3: COMPLETE Olympia SM3 Service/Set Up Guide- Carriage Adjustments/ Ring and Cylinder by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

Not mentioned in the video is that, at least on his model, most of the common adjustment points have screws or nuts which have a brassy look rather than silvery almost as a means of highlighting them as subtle adjustment points for improving the performance of the machine.

Sometimes the carriage lock mechanism on the Olympia SM3 may not clear the carriage rail completely and this can result in it rubbing on the returns which results in a zipper or grinding sound. Forming the bar that connects the lever to the mechanism can quickly remedy this issue. See timestamp 2:17

Fore and aft adjustments on carriages

Details at timestamp

Side to side adjustment on carriage:

Details at timestamp

Forward and backward carriage adjustments (on both sides):

Details at timestamp

Adjustment for the spacing between the carriage rails:

This adjustment is rarely done unless there is something drastically wrong with the machine Details at timestamp

Adjustment on the carriage stoppers for how much bounce the carriage shift might have as well as how high or low the carriage sits at it's lowest point using the triangle sliding bracket on each side of the carriage with two screws. If these force the carriage too high, it can affect where the type sits in terms of potentially interfering with the bichrome settings to make letters (especially the tallest ones) have two colors when they should only have one. Details at timestamp 8:14

Adjustment on the rear springs for how light or heavy the carriage shift may be. Raise the spring and then adjust the small "nut" on the top. Details at timestamp 9:52

Ring and Cylinder adjustment for Olympia SM3<br /> Details at timestamp

Gerren doesn't seem to understand (or perhaps doesn't discuss it) some of the mechanics behind this adjustment beyond the distance of the platen to the typeface, but the usual suggestion is that the typeface shouldn't actually strike the paper and/or the platen. Ideally there should be just enough space between the typeface and the platen that an addition sheet of paper can be easily slid between the two along with the ribbon and another sheet of paper. This will allow the typeface to just kiss the ribbon and force the ink onto the front sheet of paper. Doing this will help to protect the integrity of the paper being typed on (ie, no deep imprints being pressed into the paper -- often seen with the period), as well as the integrity of the platen (preventing chips and imprints into the rubber, especially if it has been hardened), and the longer term integrity of the ribbon which can tend to be cut into by the typeface if it's too close.

From a physics perspective there is some minor amount of flex in the typebar arm between where the "hammer" at the bottom of the typebar hits the "anvil" (aka ring) and the top of the typeface which, when typing at speed will tend to "throw" the typeface a tad farther than it would hit when the hammer hits the anvil when simply holding it against the ring manually.

Part 2: COMPLETE Olympia SM3 Typewriter Service/repair- SO YOU WANT TO BE A MECHANICAL ENGINEER?!? by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

An excellent video in terms of coming to understand the functionality of a typewriter versus how the pieces interact to effectuate those functionalities.

COMPLETE Olympia SM1/2/3/4/5/7 Typewriter Build/Service/Tune up Series- Part 1 by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

It can be useful to take some mineral spirits, naphtha, or paint thinner and a tooth brush (or, even better, a brass bristle brush) to your typeface every now and then to clean the ink, dirt, paper, bits of ribbon, dust, etc. out of it. Doing it after changing ribbon is always a good idea. If you're really hard pressed, nail polish remover (acetone) or rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball along with a small pin tip for the loops of letters like 'a', 'o', 'p', 'g', etc. can be used.

How well (or not) your typewriter works from a print perspective can also change with the type of paper you're using, what your ribbon is made out of (usually nylon, silk, or cotton), how much ink it's got in it and how old/worn it may be. A good backing sheet behind your typing paper can also be helpful.

reply to u/kirrachristine at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dtuksy/one_letter_weirdly_thicksmudged/ RE: one letter weirdly thick/smudged

Tom Hanks Changes the Ribbon on a Typewriter - Secret Talent Theatre - Vanity Fair

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwMhC_klUByVGdnTTIFP6XmVdLPYwW3mC

Joe Van Cleave typewriter maintenance and repair playlist

You can certainly keep them out on shelves and rely on occasional dusting.

If they're in a dustier-than-typical room or you have compounding factors, like the presence of cats or dogs (like my German Shedder, I meant German Shepherd), and don't want to go the route of traditional fabric-like dust covers, you might consider doing a thicker plastic/acrylic cover which will give you a clear plastic layer of protection, but still show off your machines.

I live in Los Angeles and there are half a dozen places that do this sort of custom plastic work all the time for very reasonable rates. Searching for "plastic fabricator memorabilia case" along with variations of plastics (acrylic, lucite, plexiglass) should get you what you want locally. (Here's a few examples I've used in Los Angeles before to give you an idea: https://solterplastics.com/, https://www.plasticfactoryinc.com/, https://www.customacrylicproducts.com/, https://plexidisplays.com/). Search for something similar in your area for easier communication and cheaper pick up/shipping.

If you search around for companies that make plastic displays, particularly for memorabilia (baseball bats, baseball cards, etc.), you can have them design and make a custom sized clear plastic box/enclosure that will keep the dust and dirt out, but still allow you to see the machine inside. If done well it may actually make them appear more precious because you've taken the additional precaution.

Enclosed glass shelving is also a potential solution as well, but requires a larger investment and also requires more work to rotate machines out for regular use.

Most of my machines get daily use, so I'm not really using them for display or presentation purposes (except for one machine which sits on our library card catalog, but even then, it is frequently used as a standing desk, for occasional poetry by everyone in the family, or for guests who want to try their hand). I go through lots of index cards, so I'll usually temporarily protect against dust, dirt, and fur by slipping an index card on top of the hood or slightly into it to protect the segment.

But at the end of the day, as long as you haven't used WD-40 or some other lubricant on your segment and typebars (and what typewriter monster would do such barbaric things?), you should easily be able to go long periods between dustings and still have a highly functional machine. After all, who hasn't bought a machine full of dirt, dust, White Out, and eraser shavings/crumbs that still works like a dream?

It may bear brief mention for those who display their machines and forget, that you might also disengage the paper lock/paper release lever which will release the tension on your rubber rollers against the platen so that they don't go "flat" or become misshapen when not in use for long periods.

Expansion of https://hypothes.is/a/NjoVMA1REe-f47d0T4ZOkg

Reply to u/Styr0foam at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1djgjv2/how_to_display_typewriters_properly/

Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

annotation URL: urn:x-pdf:65fe580cf845ed035c4e57ad02a987cf

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Maintenance Of Office Machines. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1513. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocdxgkxKAKo.

[[Joe Van Cleave]] in Typewriter Video Series - Episode 46: Escapements, Their Care & Feeding