10,000 Matching Annotations
  1. May 2026
    1. Oral history questions for Richard Polt on typewriter collecting:

      Over the years Joe Van Cleave has done a handful of videos on selectivity and downsizing of one's typewriter collection including: <br /> - The Minimal Complete Typewriter Collection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ej6kd1FsnE <br /> - Culling the Herd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_ueHE3Whjk <br /> - Downsizing Your Typewriter Collection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eic4lNE0l3Y

      And Sarah Everett has one "what's your deserted island typewriter?" (if I had to pick 5 typewriters....) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFqJa9kD-v0

      All this to ask Richard: what your downsizing experience has been? What were the criteria by which you chose what to keep? Did you more closely focus your collection into an area, era, style, other? Are you primarily keeping the things you tend to use more frequently? Things in better condition? You started out with how many to end up with how many? If you could start your collecting over from scratch what would you change? Are there things you wouldn't get the second time around? Things you would have spent more time focusing on? What will you continue to collect and at what rate? Naturally, collecting is a very personal thing with respect to individual's specific tastes and experiences (and frequently space!), but I suspect answers to some of these may help others, especially those who are just starting into collecting, or who have a dozen or two machines but who might find value on where and how to potentially focus their efforts. It may also help other collectors and their families who are dealing with appropriately disposing of significant collections, especially in cases where a deceased collector was very passionate and the family just wants to be rid of them quickly (i.e. ideas like Swedish death cleaning and related).

      I'm sure reflections on these would be an interesting typecast, but if it's easier to do something like an oral history interview, I'm happy to collect these and a few dozen more questions into an interview format if you've got 30-60 minutes in the coming months to devote to a remote audio/video interviews/mini-podcast or YouTube episode or something similar?

    1. reply to https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10161712887224678/

      to Steve Clancy Zach Hubbird Jean Brunet

      I'm curious what the sourcing is on your differentiation of the two models? Are there manuals, advertising, or other details to back up the differences? From what I can see, the phrase "Rhythm Touch" seems to have been an advertising tag for the Underwood SS which started a few months after production of the SS began and there wasn't any difference in them other than the advertising tag.

      Robert Messenger has some scant history on the machine and the differences, primarily due to a redesign at the time, at https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_25.html. The primary change from the S to the SS seems to have been a move from a carriage shift to a basket shift and so it seems somewhat fitting that Underwood uses the phrase "Rhythm Touch" as an advertising gimmick much like Smith-Corona were doing with their "Floating Shift" marketing.

      Generally standards at the time were not differentiated by different trim lines as standards had all the bells and whistles for office use (potentially aside from custom use cases like decimal tabulators or extra wide carriage). Meanwhile all the trim variations were generally seen in the portable market geared toward home use rather than office. This would seem to support the idea that there's only the SS and "Rhythm Touch" is only an advertising tag line as the SS was newly introduced in January of '46 and "Rhythm Touch" appears around July '46.

      There's also some discussion on the TWdB in the commentary at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1950-underwood-ss.23202.typewriter which may add to the question.

      I'm curious to hear everyone's thoughts on the idea/thesis that the only model is the Underwood SS which is being marketed as the "Rhythm Touch" or evidence to the contrary to refute the claim.

    1. The standard collection of Berkeley's work is the nine volume The Works of George Berkeley, Bishop of Cloyne edited by Jessup and Luce, and the standard collection of Hume's work is the eight volume Clarendon Hume Edition Series under Beauchamp, Norton, and Stewart as general editors. For the Berkeley, your professor probably has in mind the collection Philosophical Works; Including the Works on Vision edited by Ayers. For the Hume, the Selby-Bigge/Nidditch editions were standard until recently and remain widely used. For the Kant, the standard edition is The Cambridge Edition of the Works of Immanuel Kant series which is under the general editorship of Guyer and Wood but which includes work by other translators as well. And the Pluhar translation of Kant's Critique of Pure Reason, which was the previous standard, remains widely used.

      via u/wokeupabug at https://www.reddit.com/r/askphilosophy/comments/1i9c0ni/the_definitive_edition_of_george_berkeleys_work/

    1. Differentiating between an Underwood SS and the Underwood Rhythm Touch:

      comment to James Grooms at https://typewriterdatabase.com/show.23202.typewriter

      James, perhaps it's hiding somewhere else in the comments on the database, but I'm curious if you've come across definitive differences between the Underwood SS and the Underwood Rhythm Touch models which have separate pages within the database:<br /> - SS https://typewriterdatabase.com/Underwood.SS.4.bmys - Rhythm Touch https://typewriterdatabase.com/Underwood.Rhythm+Touch.4.bmys

      Most of my Google searches don't return anything definitive or with actual sourcing of any sort.

      The main page has the SS starting in May 1946 and the Rhythm Touch beginning in July of that year, but doesn't seem to specify between the two in any substantive way. Neither of the two models seems to have had a name printed on it.

      Your description here uses both designators, but knowing your penchant for newspaper and magazine advertisements, I would suspect you may have seen specific differentiators.

      This Facebook post has some handwaving differentiators: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10161712887224678/ but none seem definitive or sourced. It also uses the phrase carriage shift, though presumably with these models Underwood had moved to a segment/basket shift on their standards.

      Other than the chrome side detailing moving from 3 strips to 5 as you've noted, one of the few differentiators I can see in this era is the shift from the shorter carriage return lever to the longer armed version around 1948 which Robert Messenger notes in https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_25.html. However that same page also has an advertisement on it with the words Rhythm Touch featuring a short armed (older style) carriage return.

      Is there really a difference between the SS and the Rhythm Touch or are they the same model with the phrase "Rhythm Touch" used as a marketing tag to compete potentially with Smith-Corona's "Floating Shift"?

      Thanks!

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. Welcome to the typewriter club, and congratulations on your Royal HH.

      Preceded by the Royal KMM and the Royal KMG, the Royal HH was manufactured from 1952 to 1957 when it was replaced by the Royal FP, though it continued to sell well, even on the used market with newspaper advertising until the early 1980s.

      Here's a copy of the original manual from 1952: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/royalhh.pdf

      The Royal HH was offered in Charcoal Grey smooth, Nile Green smooth, Horizon Blue smooth, Coral Rose, Gray Frieze, Royaltone Dark Gray wrinkle, Royaltone Light Gray wrinkle but far and away, the standard brown with green plastic keys was the most ubiquitous.

      Well known users of the Royal HH typewriter included: William F. Buckley, Jr., Charles Bukowski, George Burns, Herb Caen, Truman Capote, Bruce Catton, Patty Chayefsky, Don DeLillo, Alice Denham, James T. Farrell, Paul Fussell, Hugh Hefner, Elia Kazan, Sterling North, Robert B. Parker, Sylvia Plath, Mario Puzo, Robert Penn Warren, Eudora Welty, and William Zinsser. You can find photos of most of these writers with their machines at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html.

      The Royal HH has appeared in movies including:

      These typewriters were especially appreciated by journalists:

      Newsroom at The Masters featuring dozens of Royal HH typewriters.

      img

      Spools and Ribbon:<br /> The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse.

      If you're missing the original spools, Ribbons Unlimited carries them: https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/6N064-Royal-Standard-Electric-Ribbon-64-p/6n064.htm or you might source an original metal pair from a local repair shop.

      Duane of Phoenix Typewriter has a video about how to change and spool up your Royal standard.

      Collector Sarah Everett can show you most of the functions on her YouTube Channel for Just My Typewriter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0Zvc1m-8aI.

      Some additional history can be found here: https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_9.html.

      For additional resources on typewriters, collecting, repairing, and using them see: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/.

      Happy typing!

      Reply to u/MertwithYert at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1swf5pn/ive_got_two_type_writers_id_greatly_appreciate/

    1. Verlon H. Pridgen Obituary It is with profound sadness and heartbreak that our family announces the passing of Verlon “Bill” Huey Pridgen on October 28th, 2024, at the age of 87 while surrounded by loved ones. Bill was born on February 1, 1937, to Morgan and Annie Pridgen in Samson, Alabama. He moved to Florida when he was young, where he lived out the rest of his life. While in high school in South Florida, Bill met the love of his life, Barbara Pridgen. Bill and Barbara married in 1957 and completed their family with their two children, Marc and Lesli. From 1959 to 1961, Bill proudly served in the United States Army. He was stationed at Fort Lewis in Washington and spent time serving in Germany. After retiring from the Army, Bill continued his lifelong career of working on typewriters. He eventually became the owner of McDavid Typewriter Service from 1970 to 2024. His love for all typewriters and his passion for repairing and restoring the machines earned him the endearing title of “Typewriter Genius”. As a devoted follower of Christ, Bill raised his family wrapped up in the love of God. He was an amazing role model and continually showed the love of God to those he encountered through his actions and words. He gave glory to God in all things. Bill was exceptionally committed to his church family at Trinity Baptist Church where he served in the choir and Cubbies. He also volunteered as a coach for their youth sports program. Exemplifying God always, Bill made the world a brighter place for 87 years. Bill is survived by a son, Marc (Donna) Pridgen; a daughter, Lesli (Greg) Wheeler; grandchildren, Ashley (John Robert) Pridgen-Blake, Gregory Wheeler Jr., Samantha (Curtis) Burkhardt, Alison (Garrett) Pridgen, Cindy Pridgen, Hannah Wheeler, Luke Wheeler, and Simon Wheeler; great-grandchildren, Skarlette Blake, Jackson Blake, and Lena Wheeler; and brothers, Donald (Sheila) Pridgen and Jerry (Marion) Pridgen. Bill was a cherished husband, father, grandfather, great-grandfather, and friend. He was preceded in death by his wife of 67 years, Barbara Pridgen; father, Morgan Pridgen; his mother, Annie Pridgen; and brothers, Gary Pridgen, and Robert Pridgen.Visitation will be held at 10am on Saturday, November 2nd, 2024, followed by the funeral service at 11am at Trinity Baptist Church at 3716 State Rd 21, Keystone Heights, FL, 32656. Interment will follow at Eliam Cemetery at 821 State Rd 21, Melrose, FL, 32666.In lieu of flowers, we ask that you donate to Haven Hospice to help their mission of honoring life by providing comfort, care, and compassion to individuals and families they serve. You can donate online at https://beyourhaven.org/donate or by mail to 4200 NW 90th Blvd, Gainesville, FL 32606. Cemetery Eliam Cemetery 821 State Road 21 Melrose FL 32666

      https://www.forestmeadowsfh.com/obituaries/Verlon-H-Pridgen?obId=42124630

    1. Both have the same serial again. Resellers like this are not doing any favours for the community. Brooksaw: https://www.ebay.com/itm/318227695061 Kyle’sLost&Found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/157839087546

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1t0569c/brooksaw_at_it_again_another_service_worth_2800/

      The typewriter community not appreciating Brooksaw Antiques buying a typewriter for $200 and then, upon receipt, posting it for $2,800 as "near mint" without any servicing beyond cleaning the slugs.

    1. The collector in me says you ought to get a Royal 10 as your 10th machine. But what do I know? I bought a Remington 17 as my 17th and I'm looking forward to the days I'll buy the milestone Remington Ten Forty or the eventual Hermes 3000! 😁

      If it helps, at Virtual Hermans 2022, Richard Polt recommended someone justify their continued typewriter collecting to their skeptical wife as an "investment" because typewriters are holding their value well.

      I personally don't have a typewriter collecting problem, I have a typewriter ribbon collecting problem that's compounded by need to both store and use them in their original historical context.

  2. Apr 2026
    1. So, I fear the answer is that there is nothing practical to be done, but if anyone has any ideas of how to lighten the dark keytops, I'm all ears. My only thought is the risky move of printing new papers, but I just know I'd get the size and font wrong.But after years of neglect, I think she deserves to feel beautiful again. She's royalty, after all.

      reply to Zachary Thede at https://www.facebook.com/groups/721704878218903/posts/3075801049475929

      It's definitely doable! The only way to do this is to remove the keyrings (preferably with a keyring pliers, otherwise it's incredibly tedious) and to physically replace the key legends with new ones. Richard Polt has some of the process described here as well as as high resolution scans that you can use to print out keys. https://writingball.blogspot.com/2016/10/legendary.html

      Ames Supply Company used to sell keycards for doing this. Some of them had colors including green, so keep this in mind if you try something like creating rainbows across your keyboard or other visual fun. https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.misc-supplies.manual

      Our friend Lucas Dul of Chicago Typewriter has a great YouTube video of the tool and some of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYHrBjfQxpM

      As a fun example, Heiko Stolten recently did this on a Remington using custom made legends that use the font from the Netflix series Wednesday: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163537426144678/ If you ask nicely, they've got the original files if you need them for printing out .

      Good luck!

    1. reply to u/coffeetoffee92 at https://reddit.com/r/ClassicalEducation/comments/1sxcw5m/well_trained_mind_ancient_history_facts_for/<br /> RE: rote memorization of historical dates

      I've not read Bauer, but I'll suspect that she doesn't teach "serious" rhetoric, much less the fourth canon: memory. She's likely relying on the post-Ramus (15th Century) method of rote memorization rather than the methods used from ancient Greece through Augustine, Aquinas, and Llull.

      I'd start with some mnemonic methods like the method of loci or the Major System to make it much easier for the kid to begin scaffolding memory techniques and make it easier for them to memorize those facts you're talking about.

      For the memory piece, I'd start first with one of the most wide-ranging:

      Kelly, Lynne. 2019. Memory Craft: Improve Your Memory Using the Most Powerful Methods from around the World. Pegasus Books.

      Many of the older classics on memory also include long lists of historically important dates to use. Grey is a good example:

      Grey, Richard (1694-1771). 1799. Memoria Technica, or, A New Method of Artificial Memory. W. Lowndes. https://archive.org/details/memoriatechnica03greygoog/page/n2/mode/2up.

    1. Some will suggest color coding, but I've never understood it as it limits you to about a dozen topics and it presupposes that you'll be interested in those same topics for decades to the exclusion of others. It wholly lacks flexibility.

      I use a card index much like H. Ross Ashby. Start with index cards labeled A-Z, then add topics as you encounter them and add a volume number and page number.

      Thus:

      C<br /> commonplace books: 1-3, 1-88, 4-67 (see also 'Locke, John')<br /> crickets: 2-45<br /> caviar: 3-22, 3-25 (see also 'eggs')

      When you've got a handful of cards for each letter it can be useful to separate things out (a la John Locke) as "CA", "CE", "CI", "CO", "CU" and re-alphabetize to make finding things easier and quicker. At this point it can also be helpful to add tabbed dividers to find the "C" section more quickly. Eventually you may have a single card (or three) with an individual heading for topics you write about frequently. (Naturally you could do a single card for each topic as you start, but it often makes the search process take longer and you'll probably have a lot of lonely, unused cards. It also tends to stifle serendipity and creativity because you're not scanning through your topics as thoroughly or frequently.)

      I tend to write index words either in the margins of my commonplace or underline them with a red pencil within the text to make finding things on the page easier upon later search.

      You can start small with a recipe card box and eventually move your way up to something more industrial as you need it. There are also lots of options in between.

      Indexing can be an art and was also a great science (before Google made everyone lazy), so there are some useful handbooks on the topic below:

      Other related ideas: https://boffosocko.com/research/zettelkasten-commonplace-books-and-note-taking-collection

      reply to u/commonbankpen at https://reddit.com/r/commonplacebook/comments/1syayru/how_do_you_index/

    1. Refreshing dry ribbons:Take a little bottle, fill it with refreshing solution.The violet little thing is a piece of sponge covered by a tissue of textile.So the refreshing solution flows gently through the mouthing of the bottle onto the ribbon.Refreshing solution:- 3 parts pure rubbing alcohol - 1 part castor oil- when needed add oil based stamp ink to darken the ribbon

      via Nils Behr at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163547121184678/

      Small bottle used as applicator with a sponge inserted on the top covered by a small square of cloth which is rubberbanded on. This is then applied slowly to the typewriter ribbon on a winder.

    1. Current offerings/pricing (subject to change): 660 yards (full reel) of nylon ribbon in black or black/red for $65 330 yards (half reel) of nylon ribbon in black or black/red for $45 550 yards of silk ribbon in black or black/red for $220 295 yards of cotton in black or black/red for $75

      Silk vs Nylon vs Cotton typewriter ribbon:<br /> Nylon is 0.10 per yard<br /> Silk is 0.40 per yard Cotton is 0.25 per yard

    1. How do you do your numbering system? I had seven categories that I put 1000 to 7000 and split down from there. But now, in my electronic version I'm not worrying about numbering. I actually thought about writing a script that would have a number and then front and back of the cards and then the typing would be just like on a replica of an index card.

      reply to u/Low_Mushroom_810 at https://reddit.com/r/Zettelkasten/comments/1svb99e/bye_bye_physical_zettelkasten/

      People think the numbering system was the "key" to it, but really it's mostly having a consistent filing method so that when you need something you know roughly where to look. Thus filing by a keyword is just as useful.

      Though for those who use numbers, I find that mathematically any numbering system that provides mathematical density and some semblance of order will get you what you need. Because of their ease-of-use and ubiquity, real numbers are sufficient. See also: https://boffosocko.com/2022/10/27/thoughts-on-zettelkasten-numbering-systems/

      Needing to put a number on a note and being forced to file it near something else helps to provide some links and structure which creates "neighborhoods" of ideas such that when you need something, pulling out a tranche of notes will give you "something" (hopefully) useful.

      Within the digital realm, one can often get away without numbering as long as there is some tagging, linking, or other method of strong search so that you can actually find anything. That being said, the usefulness of numbering in analog still carries over to the digital.

      If you're curious about the science of filing, I recommend some of the older texts like:<br /> - Duffield, David Walter, and various other unattributed authors. 1951. Progressive Indexing and Filing. 5th ed. New York, NY: Remington Rand Inc. http://archive.org/details/progressiveindex0000varo (September 27, 2023). - Kahn, Gilbert, and C. Theo Yerian. 1955. Progressive Filing. New York: Gregg Pub. Division, McGraw-Hill. http://archive.org/details/progressivefilin00kahn (September 27, 2023).

    2. I find when I'm with a client, or even a doctor seeing me for one of my medical issues, or just asking somebody for advice, they never flinch if I pull out an index card or two. But if I pull out a notebook it puts up a wall. Sometimes getting off the phone is okay, but most people keep their defenses down with just index cards. And I'm not writing down anything to put them on the spot, but sometimes I just need to jot some things down. And the index card doesn't make it look like this big open thing that I'm going to write down everything they say if there's a beginning middle and end to it.

      via u/Low_Mushroom_810 at https://old.reddit.com/r/Zettelkasten/comments/1svb99e/bye_bye_physical_zettelkasten/

    1. I got one of these quiet models after using a pancake for years. Absolutely life changing. I know they make smaller tank models, but you'd be surprised how fast the air goes on a blowout attachment. (Amazon has some cheaper 1 gal ones that appear to have great reviews) The old pancake I used before this was small, and ran NON STOP at like 100+ db. Shoo

      via Nashville Typewriter at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1srashb/handheld_alternative_to_canned_air/?sort=old

    1. I've been doing this for many years and there are only a tiny few of us, beyond professional document examiners, who might care enough to delve into these questions.

      A few things to consider:

      You're more likely to find solid advice from typeface historians than you are SCM historians. You're also likely to find better advice on this topic in the more specialized fora like https://typewriter.boardhost.com/ or the typewriter discord https://discord.gg/UzaREHJnX

      You're better off using the exemplars from the catalogs (several .pdfs in the TWdb when you're logged in, or on munk.org in scanned photo format). The photos and identifications in the individual galleries of the database are USER IDENTIFIED and aren't always the most consistent as a result. Knowing some of the bigger, more knowledgeable collectors on the database and who knows what best or who has studied areas the most is incredibly helpful here. (Several of your examples are via James Grooms, who is a significant collector and generally does solid identifications, provides photos of slugs and foundry marks, but still often asks for confirmations of typeface identifications in the various fora.)

      The foundry marks on the numerals for most machines are very often are different from those of the alphabet so you may find that particular machines used something like Pica No. 1 for the letters but something different, but potentially close for the numbers.

      The slugs and designs for the number one are often the least reliable over time as it was often left off of machines entirely until the 60s or 70s. Even when a foundry specifically designed this numeral, many manufacturers left it off their machines though they often put an exemplar for it into their catalogs. Thus when you compare, you may be comparing the lowercase letter "L" in exemplars for individual machines. In particular, I've seen examples recently for Royal who had the number 1 in their catalogs, but almost never had a key on the machine for it and either relied on the user using the "L" or in cases of double gothic faces the letter "I", and as a result, you'll never find an exact "match" between the two.

      An exact determination is highly unlikely to change the value of your particular machine in the slightest.

      It would be nice if the Typewriter Database encouraged people to upload photos of their slugs and foundry marks specifically and had data fields for identifying the typefaces as well as fields for which sources they used to provide those identifications.

      The level of resources and knowledge in this area means that it's incumbent on you to do your own research and come to your own conclusions based on what is broadly available in terms of original catalogs and exemplars in the wild. This being said, the only way the state of the art changes is for people who do this sort of research to publish it with their lines of reasoning on their own websites, here on Reddit, or other typewriter related fora.


      Reply to u/frankinreddit at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1sskes0/smithcorona_id_help_are_these_actually_pica_no_1/

    1. In the hopes of helping those seeking to remove the body/shell/jacket* of a Corona Zephyr (1938, in this case), I've created a step-by-step process based on my recent experience. (\The user manual from the 1930s refers to the machine's body as a "jacket.")* The steps are: Remove the two screws underneath the keys at the front of the machine (holding the typewriter to the base of the body. 2, 3, 4. ON EACH SIDE, remove the screws at positions #2 & #3 and the lug nut at position #4. Don't remove the screw at position #4 as it's not necessary & will be difficult to set back in place. Remove the back lower panel of the body to reveal the screws at position #5. Remove the screws at position #5 from EACH SIDE of the machine. Using a thin piece of cardboard (I used the cardstock from a cereal box) or a stack of a few pieces of paper, depress the top row of keys so that they'll slide under the body as you slide it forward. Slide the body forward, slightly lifting the back end to help guide it out. Work slowly & gently, keeping an eye on the keys to ensure that they are not getting caught on the body & that nothing is getting crushed, scraped, or scratched as you work. Continue gently & carefully sliding the machine out of its body. A view of the body without the typewriter within. Note that it is a single piece and the top & bottom do NOT separate. Good luck! ALSO: this guest post from Garrett Lai on Richard Polt's Typewriter Revolution site has a good approach for aiding in the sliding of the typewriting in & out of the body by making some plastic skids to avoid scraping/scratching during movement: https://writingball.blogspot.com/2020/06/guest-post-disassembling-smith-corona.html If you want to get any Corona Zephyr servicing details from the source, be sure to see Theodore Munk's post which includes his insights along with a copy of the original "1938 Corona Zephyr Typewriter Service Adjustment Methods" manual: https://typecast.munk.org/2023/02/11/1938-corona-zephyr-typewriter-service-adjustment-methods/

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1srswu6/removing_the_body_shell_of_a_corona_zephyr_1938/

      Details for removing the jacket of a Corona Zephyr.

    1. When does your zettelkasten start talking back?

      reply to DueNinja7096 at https://reddit.com/r/Zettelkasten/comments/1sqvydk/when_does_your_zettelkasten_start_talking_back/

      It will happen to you more quickly as you thumb through your notes or search through them for things you know you want. Along the way you'll discover you find things you need, but didn't know you needed. You'll see things you know you wrote or put into the box, but forgot long ago but realize you can use right now. Searching regularly increases the level of the conversation as well as the chances for serendipity.

    1. i got a hermes 3000

      Sarah treated the internal felt of her typewriter by spraying it down with white distilled vinegar. This kills any living molds, etc. Vodka is also good for removing scents on typewriters (and vintage bags).

      The variable line spacer is inside the platen of a Hermes 3000.

      The carriage of the H3K comes off with the removal of two bolts.

      For rust removal Sarah starts with a wire brush then does PB Blaster for more.

      Replace rusted springs.

      Fingernail polish for a H3K:<br /> - Sally Hansen Insta-Dry line "Time is Money" (discontinued?) - Expressie Essie quick dry "In the Modem" (closest in her opinion) - Sinful Colors Eucalypta - Blank Beauty (color match to Hermes Ambassador) - Orly (meh, too green)

      The case doesn't remove intuitively.

    1. Platen repair experiment… This platen on a Royal Arrow was badly cracked with large chunks missing. So, having nothing to lose, I took some black Flexseal paste and filled it in like spackle. Of course, I applied way too much and ended up sanding most of it off before applying 240 grit sand paper to the entire platen via my drill. It’s smooth to the touch, not perfect, but passed the typing test with all letters clear and neat.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/1794856020751839/posts/4419835824920499/

    1. What’s more intriguing to me, is to go to that edge where you can't walk and have both sides laugh with you, and at themself first, and then that's change. That's the only way we're gonna solve this. That's the only way we're gonna bring the country together. And maybe we should have sex with each other. Maybe every Proud Boy should have sex with antifa.

      via https://laist.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/john-waters-ai-artifical-intelligence-los-angeles-laughter

    1. The advice in your last picture is spot on. I have had success with #0000 steel wool and metal polish in particular.

      Advice for polishing and cleaning up nickel plating

      via Erik Bruchez https://www.facebook.com/groups/705152958470148/posts/1230905545894884/

      Others recommend penetrating oil or WD-40 in combination with 0000 steel wool which should be enough to remove corrosion, but not damage the nickel plating.

      I've also seen Marty Morren suggest 0000 inside Dremel tools for dealing with nickel plated key rings.

    1. Caring for the Holiday Case. This was a straightforward cleaning. The case was pretty bad. I scrubbed with soap and water, let dry for a few days, then cleaned metal with steel wool (0000 grade). Inside the movements were lightly lubricated with Marvel mystery oil, including the carrying handle and hinges. The case was polished with Meguiars cleaning wax (maroon tin). Final buff with mircrofiber.

      via Katie Typewriter-Alliance on https://www.facebook.com/groups/1713118022537412/posts/2399628867219654/

    1. reply to u/Greydusk1324 about the difference in Royal Standard typewriters at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1skmfum/comparing_royal_standard_desk_machines/

      I'm (sorry?) to report that the internals of the Royal standard typewriters including the Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc. are all incredibly similar if not exactly the same over several decades. The biggest change is probably the introduction of Magic Margins with the KMM. The margin release button also moved down to the keyboard around this time as well.

      Most of the rest are smaller, subtle differences in how the ribbon reverse mechanism is done or things like keytops changing from glass and acetate to plastic, the threading design of the ribbon vibrator, as well as the external design and some of the other small fit and finish. Some of the much later models allow one to remove the entire chassis from the body of the typewriter to make cleaning and servicing easier.

      There are certainly differences in type-feel and "weight" in the changes in the keytops, but broadly they're all mostly the same machine. The biggest differences between them all (for me) tend to be how well they've been maintained and/or been cleaned and adjusted. One seriously well adjusted Royal is better than any 20 other random Royal standards you might pick up for a fraction of the price. Of course, if you're doing your own wrenching work, then once you've learned one machine well, the rest are a breeze to work on and bring up to snuff.

      If you think there's a huge difference between your KMM and KMG (which are probably the two closest models), then perhaps it's worth it to try some others? The biggest difference may be the FP which has chunkier key caps that have more effect on the "feel". The HH and many of the other later models have thinner key tops. The Ten is probably the most different from the rest. The H, KH, KHM are what I would call "experimental" models moving toward the perfection in the KMM and KMG.

      Context: I'm an owner of a KHM, 2 KMMs (including a 47+ pound, 18" wide carriage), 2 KMGs, 2 HHs, half a dozen FPs (in all the colors but Willow Green), and a 440. This includes a variety of their standard pica and elites, a Clarion Gothic, and a Pica Double Gothic. Stylistically I love the KMG and the FP, but my KHM has one of the most satisfying "actions" of any of the machines I own.

      Of course, all this depends on what sort of collection you're aiming for. I love a good Royal and have a smattering of other makes and models, but I am slowly working toward a completist picture of Royal Standards. I do try to add machines that have a unique typeface or other feature as I add more of them to get some additional depth and breadth to my collection.

      If you're a collector with limited space, then pick up the best looking design(s) (for your personal aesthetic) and rest easy that you're not missing too much. You can also pick up new machines to curate for a few years and then move them along to other collectors to enjoy so that your collection is always changing.

      You might get some more detail and nuance by watching Joe Van Cleave's YouTube channel where he's done a few dozen videos on Royal standards as well as comparison videos over the past several years.

      Good luck on your hunt!

    1. I've always wanted an Olivetti Valentine and recently purchased one. To my surprise, there is a metal commemorative marker on the back that reads, in English, "Commemorative Edition. 31st Anniversary. 1965-1996. Special Anniversary Edition. 179/250". This was surprising because 1) the Valentine was released in 1969 and 2) production ended in 1975. From the reading I've done online, it seems like production lingered in Mexico, but 1996 seems very late.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1sg32qw/help_with_olivetti_valentine_mystery/