1,482 Matching Annotations
  1. May 2025
    1. And is it true that you enjoy taking typewriters apart and putting them back together? Doherty : Of course. It’s just that I’m so attracted to these objects that I want to look inside them, to understand how they work. It’s a form of learning, for me it would be a dream to have a shop specializing in repairing typewriters. Maybe one day… Among the many, I love the Valentine model by Olivetti, sooner or later I absolutely want to visit Ivrea.

      The Olivetti Valentine is one of Pete Doherty's favorites.

  2. Apr 2025
    1. I actually have pretty good feedback to share on this... I bought the remaining inventory from the guy that does these about 3 years back. We initially had a verbal agreement about me taking over the turboplaten business and we discussed the process in detail while loading a truck full of typewriters, but as the day wore on he seemed a little reluctant and when we started getting into inner/outer diameter measurements and specific PVC tubing he kinda clammed up. *For the record, I wasn't put out by it really as I had virtually zero intention of starting a platen business and told him as such- that any I made would likely only be for machines I sold. But it definitely felt weird as he literally gave me his custom built lathe and much of his tubing stock. 🤷🏻‍♂️ That said, I know how to make these from start to finish. The quality is decent enough, and the ones I got from him and the ones I made myself perform pretty well for the most part. However, I found some machines react poorly to the different material - causing escapement skip. The PVC material is bouncier than natural rubber, and doesn't play well with ALL typewriters without being specifically messed with during construction. His method of heat treatment of the tubing is what's supposed to combat this, but it's almost impossible to gauge the amount of heat needed for various machines specific escapements. All that to say; They're an interesting concept in theory, and given the right equipment could be a compelling alternative for natural rubber. But given what I saw and experienced in the process, I'd have a difficult time justifying paying essentially twice what JJ Short charges for one. Not saying you shouldn't, just sharing my experience.

      Nashville Typewriter tells the story of almost taking over the concept of Turboplaten.

      https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k0p2ha/turboplaten/ on 2025-04-16.

    1. reply to u/No-Entertainer-7217 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k45o89/typewriters_needing_new_ribbons/

      "Working but needs new ribbon" is almost always seller's code for I have no idea if it really works, but I'm going to try to sell you this machine for the price of a fully functioning machine that was just serviced by a professional shop despite the fact that I just took it out of grandpa's barn and I'm not sure if the mouse inside is dead or not. Also, I can't afford $10 to replace an old ribbon to truly participate in the charade of the price I'm going to try to fleece you with.

      Educate yourself a bit: <br /> - https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/29/first-time-typewriter-purchases-with-specific-recommendations-for-writers/ - buying typewriter ribbon: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1 and https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Ribbon - typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      If you want to tell people Tom Hanks taught you to change a typewriter ribbon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0. There are lots of other YouTube videos out there for specific machines as well as reviews of them.

      You can definitely test out a machine without ribbon, but if they're trying to charge you over $100 for a machine, it really should have fresh ribbon.

    1. In the US, you can get one hundred 4" mascara brushes for around $5. Eye Tees (cottton swabs with a firm point on one end and a flat tip on the other) cost roughly the same. You'll find them at most beauty supply stores or online. These get into tight spaces. Dipped in mineral spirits (or whichever solvent you've come to like), the brush gets the stuff loose and the Tee wipes it away. Blasting air helps as well. Works for me. Others will have other ideas.

      via u/scmowner

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jyr2hc/the_best_way_to_get_rid_of_all_this_gunk/

      Colloquial advice to use 4" mascara brushes as a replacement for a segment pick for cleaning out typewriters.

    1. Mathematics with Typewriters

      What you're suggesting is certainly doable, and was frequently done in it's day, but it isn't the sort of thing you want to subject yourself to while you're doing your Ph.D. (and probably not even if you're doing it as your stress-releiving hobby on the side.)

      I several decades of heavy math and engineering experience and really love typewriters. I even have a couple with Greek letters and other basic math glyphs available, but I wouldn't ever bother with typing out any sort of mathematical paper using a typewriter these days.

      Unless you're in a VERY specific area that doesn't require more than about 10 symbols, you're highly unlikely to be pleased with the result and it's going to require a huge amount of hand drawn symbols and be a pain to add in the graphs and illustrations. Even if you had a 60's+ Smith-Corona with a full set of math fonts using their Chageable Type functionality, you'd spend far more time trying to typeset your finished product than it would be worth.

      You can still find some typewritten textbooks from the 30s and 40s in math and even some typed lecture notes collections into the 1980s and they are all a miserable experience to read. As an example, there's a downloadable copy of Claude Shannon's master's thesis at MIT from 1940, arguably one of the most influential and consequential masters theses ever written, that only uses basic Boolean Algebra and it's just dreadful to read this way: https://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/11173 (Incidentally, a reasonable high schooler should be able to read and appreciate this thesis today, which shows you just how far things have come since the 1940s.)

      If you're heavily enough into math to be doing a Ph.D. you not only should be using TeX/LaTeX, but you'll be much, much, much happier with the output in the long run. It's also a professional skill any mathematician should have.

      As a professional aside, while typewriten mathematical texts may seem like a fun and quirky thing to do, there probably isn't an awful lot of audience that would appreciate them. Worse, most professional mathematicians would automatically take a typescript verison as the product of a quack and dismiss it out of hand.

      tl;dr in terms of The Godfather: Buy the typewriter, leave the thesis in LaTeX.


      a reply to u/Quaternion253 RE: Typing a maths PhD thesis using a typewriter at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1js3cs5/typing_a_maths_phd_thesis_using_a_typewriter/

    1. The majority of American machines (Royal, Remington, Smith-Corona) are 6 lines per inch and either 10 characters per inch (pica) or 12 CPI (elite). My guess would be that you'll see about 90% of people's machines covered across these specs with a roughly 60/40 split for pica vs. elite when it comes to planning print runs.

      Most European machines are like the Olympias and are labeled as 2.3 m/m which when multiplied out (25.4mm/inch x 1 character/2.3mm) gives 11.043 CPI. Generally they're also 6 lines per inch. In the US, most of the common (and still popular) imported typewriters are going to be the Olympia SM2, SM3, SM4, SM7, and SM9s and the three incarnations of the Hermes 3000.

      I've got a small collection of 50 mostly American machines across six decades with a few less common typefaces including Vogue, Gothic, and Congress Elite if you need some machines for nearby testing (I'm in Altadena, though temporarily still displaced). Most of my available machines are listed at https://typewriterdatabase.com/typewriters.php?hunter_search=7248

      There are definitely some smaller 16, 18, 20, and even 24 CPI machines, but they tend to have come on the larger Olympia standards which weigh in at 30-40 pounds and are unlikely to be lugged to ballparks the way that smaller portables and ultraportables might be. There are some larger format 6 CPI machines, but they tend to be much rarer and are more often found on 1970s Smith-Coronas. If you want to go crazy, I'd guess you're aware of Ted Munk's collection of typefaces and catalogs that can be found at: https://typecast.munk.org/category/typewriter-typestylesfonts/

      Incidentally, for fun, Bill Madden's book Yankees, Typewriters, Scandals, and Cooperstown: A Baseball Memoir is set for release tomorrow.

      Since you sound like a local Dodgers fan, I'd love to invite you to the upcoming SoCal Type-in I'm planning for Saturday, May 10th at Vroman's Bookstore in Pasadena: https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/25/youre-invited-to-a-southern-california-type-in/ I hope you'll have some final versions available by then. 😍

      reply posted 2025-04-01 at https://old.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jn2475/yes_tom_hanks_does_schlep_a_typewriter_to_ball/

    1. If you're curious about some of the technical details and how the are affected by the distribution of typefaces and sizes, I laid out some of them the other day: https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jn2475/comment/mks9rbc/

      Lou also has some great examples of scorekeeping across display sizes and level of data in his offerings at https://thirty81press.com/.

      The broader issue for most scorers is the limitation to 8.5 x 11" paper which is the most common page size for the ubiquitous portable and ultraportable typewriters from the mid-century. While there are some portables with carriages and platens that might accomodate up to 12" wide paper, they're not super common.

      To get machines with wider platens to get 11x14 or 11x17, you're going to need the significantly larger standard machines and unless you're rich enough to have a suite that you can securely store one in or a journalist with your own booth, not many baseball fans are going to cart a 35-45+ pound typewriter with them to all their games. Though this wouldn't prevent the fan viewing at home from scoring this way easily. My example above was done on a standard width carriage on a standard machine, but I did have several options to do it on a 12", 14", and even two 16" standard typewriters. Interestingly, most of my larger carriage machines are elite 12/6 (12CPI with 6 lines/inch) formats, and I don't think Lou has designed yet for that standard which would allow for an additional 15 characters to be distributed amidst the columns (while still keeping a minimum of 1/2" margins for some balanced white space). I'll be tinkering around with some of this myself in the coming week or so on 11x14" paper using a 15" wide platen on an elite machine to see how things might look.

      Perhaps a modified format at 8.5 x 11 that alternates the teams and splits a 12 inning game format across three sheets so that the typist can type down a single page without swapping sheets every half inning and realigning their page every time? But this would cause a lot of formating change versus traditional layouts to do so.

      I've also been tinkering with using small space characters like the - and the _ to indicate data (with or without the use of the variable line spacing mechanism) for things like tracking RBIs. The underline is particularly useful for this in Lou's three space layout.

  3. Mar 2025
    1. Old school repair guys used a lot of different stuff that's no longer available due to being... Not good. Ha. But naphta was one that's still widely available as white gas aka "coleman/camping fuel" Essentially naphtha with stabilizers to keep it from going bad. Mineral spirits works as well, but naphtha leaves less residue in my experience. Lacquer thinner is good for especially stubborn crap and cleaning slugs, but evaporates really fast and the fumes are no bueno. Alternatively; non toxic degreasing cleaners like simple green are usually my preferred method of cleaning up especially gross machines. Typically very safe on paint finishes and internals, just make sure to keep it off the decals. (It can and WILL erase them if it sits for more than 10 secs) Really though, nothing beats air and a long handled "paint" brush. My air compressor and blow out tube are some of my most cherished tools.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jm7c02/is_it_better_to_use_mineral_spirits_or_lighter/?sort=old

      quote from Nashville Typewriter

    1. Typewriter 17.2 Blickensderfer Typewriter; the Scientific keyboard 25.6 Burroughs Moon-Hopkins Typewriter/Calculator 01.9 Experiential Typewriter 05.3 Experiential Typewriter 21.0 Henry Mills' Typewriter 17.0 IBM Selectric Typewriter 11.2 Pneumatic Typewriters 45.6 Typewriters, reactionary use of antiquated 21.1 Typewriters: the Comptometer, the Numerograph, the book typewriter 45.2 mechanical typewriter

      https://web.archive.org/web/20190305042816/http://www.deadmedia.org/notes/index-cat.html#tw

    1. There's a few things going on here. Generally at SGW a gray Olympia SM3 in excellent "looking" condition like this one will go for $120-150. This one is also hiding a script typeface which will usually add another $110-150 of value, which would put it at the $300 mark. I'm sort of surprised that the original winner didn't actually pay for it at this price as that's likely what someone would honestly pay for one like this. (It's also possible that they forgot they won or didn't know and didn't pay for it in time too.)

      On today's listing, it's far, far more likely that someone wants it and either couldn't get it or pay for it now at the price that it was going to go for in a reasonable auction. They used a throw away accout to make an outrageous bid in hopes that in a week it'll be relisted and no one will notice the script typeface and it'll go for well under $200. (It won't.) This happens incredibly frequently for some of the less common typewriters. Usually it's machines with script or uncommon typefaces or uncommon character sets. Recent auctions for a gold plated Olympia SM3 and a Yellow Royal FP with a Gothic typeface come to mind. I've seen this also happen four or five times in a row before someone ultimately pays for a machine at some reasonable price.

      Honestly, SGW should have a policy that the second and third runners up for auctions that don't get paid for by winners should have the right of last refusal on auctions like this to prevent this sort of "gaming" of the system. If you search back in this sub, you'll see this topic coming up every couple of weeks with the same discussions over and over. The common wisdom is that a SGW auction isn't gone until the machine doesn't pop up anymore and actually "sold". And even then, if you wait a week or two, you'll usually see the exact machine pop up less than a month later on eBay being listed by the winner for an exorbitant amount (almost always without having done any additional cleaning or restoration work on it aside from maybe dusting it out.)

      Maybe we should add the tag #SGWgaming to all these conversations to make them easier to find?

      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jift5r/listing_on_the_right_was_a_month_ago_listing_on/

    1. The long, thin spring-loaded metal flap labeled the "paper conductor" on the SM3 and SM4 and labeled the "erasing table" on the SM2 are all the same part. They serve a few functions.

      They can be used for erasing mistakes certainly and help to keep dust and debris from going into the carriage and rollers.

      The "paper conductor" description sounds like a fun translation of something from German into English, but this part also prevents the paper which goes under the paper bail and forces it up and back to the paper table and the paper support. Presumably without it, a slightly curved piece of paper might be misrouted to go right back into the platen a second time as the paper advances.

      This sort of paper conductor/dust shield can also be found on some later 1960s+ Smith-Corona (SCM) machines. For example, see the Galaxie II which calls that part the erasure table.

    1. Jim Riegert, now in his 70s, remembers what it used to be like. "Back then, typewriters were pretty big. Typewriters and adding machines," he says, referring to desktop calculators. "It got really difficult in the typewriter business about 25 years ago," he says. "The internet was coming on and killing us, too." He runs Typewriters.com and, despite a decline in sales in recent decades, he still shifts four or five electric IBM typewriters every week.
    2. The factory is in Indonesia, he explains, and is run by a team from Nakajima, a typewriter manufacturing firm from Japan. Every year, Royal still sells around 20,000 new electric typewriters and more than double that amount of mechanical typewriters. The latter have become desirable partly as decoration – a librarian might buy one for a display at the front of their library, for instance, suggests Althoff. The mechanical and electric models Royal sells cost between $300 (£238) and $400 (£317).
    3. In 2013, jaw-dropping details emerged about the extent of US intelligence agency surveillance programmes. This prompted the Russian Federal Guard Service (FSO) to revert to typewriters in an attempt to evade eavesdropping. German officials were also reported to be considering a similar move in 2014. (During the Cold War, Soviet spies actually developed techniques for snooping on electric typewriter activity, a form of "keylogging" technology – where the keystrokes inputted on a keyboard are captured. US operatives also reconstructed text from typewriter ribbons – meaning that even typewriters aren't completely safe.)
    1. Royal Typewriter Family by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      In Typewriter Video Series Episode 321 Joe and Kevin explore the Royal Heritage, Empress and Safari.

      The Royal Futura and subsequent Royal Heritage were successor machines to the Royal Quiet De Luxe.

      The Empress and the Safari have a sort of Jetsons (1962-1963) aesthetic.


      Colloquial collection of typewriter fan names by Kevin and Joe:<br /> Cult of Hermes<br /> Royal Family<br /> Remington Rebels<br /> Smith-Corona Silent Superiors

      2025-03-21: edit (spelling)

    1. KoponewtPelicram ❤️ Slug Goblin 3 points4 points5 points 3 hours ago (3 children)Do you know what's the serial number on that? Some manufacturers had special models mostly for export purposes with extra keys. For example Royal 11 is a 10 with extra keys, Underwood No. 46 is a 5/3/6 with extra keys. Remington No. 9 is an 8 with extra keys.

      via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jgg4kh/royal_kmm_extra_column_of_keys/miyumvn/

    1. Sybil Davis—who put the machine up for auction after receiving it from her mother, Jean Vounder-Davis—shared this with me in e-mail correspondence after the auction: He was not a “touch typist.” He preferred the “hunt and peck” system using only his two index fingers I … observed him using it on a daily basis.

      Raymond Chandler was not a touch typist.

    2. The machine was produced in four different versions: Series I with a beige body and black round keys borrowed from its more portable sister machine, the Olivetti Lettera 22 Series II with beige body and black ergonomic keys intended to conform better to the user’s fingers Series III with light blue body, grey-blue keys and knobs Studio 44 L with body from former competitor Underwood (Olivetti bought a controlling interest in Underwood in 1959, and completed a full merger in 1963)

      variations of the Olivetti Studio 44

    1. If you're a more serious writer, you're sure to find a smoother and better experience with a standard typewriter, but they're slightly larger and heavier (~30 pounds vs. ~15-22 pounds) than the portables. These are usually the ones I recommend if you're writing for several hours and have a dedicated space for your writing. Standards aren't as popular with most collectors, so they also tend to be less expensive.

      I really love my Royal KMG, HH, and FP and my Remington Standard and Remington 17 which are all serious machines. Here are some of the other more common standards for serious writers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r3533cSZ38


      Reply to u/RetailThrowAway69 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1je4owq/new_typewriter_for_a_keyboard_warrior_of_20_years/

    1. Almost every portable and ultra portable typewriter made from the 1930s onward came with a case that the typewriter locked into. On almost all of these the top of the typewriter case was easily removeable from the base with a spring loaded locking mechanism of some sort. This allowed the user to sit in almost any chair and use the typewriter on their lap. The thin case bottoms prevent dirt and oil from soiling one's clothes.

      Beginning in the late 60s/early 70s some manufacturers began making plastic tops that clipped onto the typewriter bodies, but often these are more brittle and prone to breaking/shattering due to the type and age of the plastic. (I'm looking at you Remington Streamliners...)

      Our cat used to love "hiding" in the wooden case tops of my 1940s and 1950s Smith-Coronas (Clippers, Sterlings, Silents, Silent Supers).

      It's really only the larger and much heavier standard machines that didn't come with cases at all.

    1. Why don't sellers include type samples in their ads? I mean, it's the core function of a typewriter. It's the reason for this machine to exist in the first place. Are these people so ignorant that they only see the decorative aspect of typewriters? I've even seen machines in "perfect working order" for horrendous prices without a type sample. This is so ridiculous. How on earth could I find a machine with a nice typeface? How do I see if a machine is well aligned? And most of these strange people don't even bother to send a type sample on request, because "the ribbon is dry". Dang!

      reply to u/andrebartels1988 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jcsp6t/rant_over_online_sellers/

      No, they're either ignorant or actively trying to hide the fact that their machine was bought for $5 at a yard sale and they're trying to match the pricing of pro shops that have cleaned, oiled, adjusted and repaired a machine which far exceeds the misery they're selling because they have absolutely no idea what goes into a good machine.

      People doing the work to show type samples and video of their machines are usually far, far more legitimate. These people are also going to give you $2 of new ribbon for free with purchase.

      Without a type sample or video, all but the rarest machines aren't worth more than $20.

    1. I found on etsy: TheModernTypewriter that sells ribbons. Are they any good?

      I've never used them. They're probably alright. Looks like they're specializing in engraved spools more than anything. My guess is that they're buying ribbon in bulk from Baco or Fine Line and passing along the cost and adding some additional profit.

      Here's typical bulk pricing:

      nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard cotton ribbon $0.25/yard If you can get a spool's worth of nylon ribbon (16 yards) for about $1.50 to $3, do you really want to pay $8 or more plus shipping? If I'm going to do this (usually for small quantities of custom colored ribbon), I'm going to buy it from a local shop to help support them and keep them open.

      There are obviously lots of options you can choose from, ultimately you'll do what works best/quickest/cheapest for you.

    1. Tested 100s of heavy desk typewriters, Here is the top 5 revealed. by [[Mr & Mrs Vintage Typewriters]]

      Top Five Standard Typewriters:<br /> - Imperial 55 - Imperial 70 (after this they went to cheaper plastic parts); removable carriage, swappable typefaces; removeable core - Hermes Ambassador - removable carriage - Underwood Standards, esp. 5 - Royal 10 (carriage shift); (and subsequent incarnations like the KH, KMM, KMG, HH, FP) - Olympia SG1 (the "crown jewel" of desktop typewriters)

      Also rans: - Olivetti Lexicon, Olivetti Graphica - Contintental m40 & m20 - Mercedes

    1. reply to u/bethcano at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1j3z646/whats_a_fair_price_these_days_for_a_hermes_3000/

      In the US I've been seeing them go for around $250 based only on photos without any additional information about whether they work or other condition.

      Platforms like eBay and ShopGoodwill.com will allow you to search for actual sales (see the advanced settings) and this will give you a much better picture of what the prices are versus people listing them for several hundred more (usually to match the prices of professional shops that are listing theirs in cleaned, oiled, and adjusted condition). (Remember when shopping: Condition is king!)

      See:

      Keep in mind that prices may be dramatically different in your country based on how ubiquitous they were when they were originally manufactured.

      Expect to add $150-200+ for script or rarer typefaces, and another \~$150 if the platen has been recovered.

      $550 would not be uncommon if purchasing a pica or elite Hermes 3000 with a standard typeface in generally good cosmetic shape that's been professionally cleaned, oiled, and adjusted by a shop.

    1. A furtherrefinementinmaking two-colourribbonsisthe useofacentreliningmachine, which automatically drawsathininsulatinglineon theribbon.A transparentgumsolutionispumpedbyairpressure througha stainless needle whichpreventsthecolours from running.

      Center lining machines are used to make bichrome typewriter ribbon. It operates by drawing an insulating line on the ribbon and transparent gum solution is pumped through a needle using pneumatic pressure to keep the two colors from running into each other.

    1. I dissolved some oil paint in machine oil, in my first tries I used universal machine oil but it was too thick, so I tried sewing machine oil that was much thinner. That worked much better but it was still a bit too thick so I was having some trouble “making it run” along the ribbon, so I used lighter fluid as a thinner. It worked great. I eyeballed everything so I can’t give proportions of the ingredients, in a future more serious attempt I plan to take some measurements.

      https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/38178621

  4. Feb 2025
    1. https://www.google.com/books/edition/System/sjnnAAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=typewriter&pg=PA536&printsec=frontcover

      There was no office machinery at all–the typewriter was known but scarcely used. Even telephones were rarities. The card index, the filing cabinet, the loose-leaf ledger were all but unknown. Of course there were no calculating machines.

      System, the Magazine of Business, volume XLII, Number 5, November 1922, p536, "What 55 Years in Business Taught Me About Managing: The first installment of the biography of John H. Patterson, founder of the National Cash Register Company and Lately Chairman of the Board" by Samuel Crowther.

    1. Correcting Bad Typing Habits with the Smith Corona Electric Typewriter 63024 by [[PeriscopeFilm]]

      Motion should happen only at the level of the fingers and not at the wrist or even the arms. Type only with your fingers and not your wrists or arms.

      Allow the carriage to glide to complete the carriage return rather than wasting addition time and energy on pushing it all the way. Let the momentum do the work.

      Use the paper release when removing letters to reduce wear on your rollers and prevent ripping of the paper.

      See also at https://stock.periscopefilm.com/63024-correcting-bad-typing-habits-with-the-smith-corona-electric-typewriter/

      Drop the paper into the top of the platen and against the paper guide to improve alignment can save time.

      Setting the right hand margin will help save huge amounts of time from the transcriptionist looking back and forth to get proper margins otherwise.

      Using correct typing for numerals will speed up typing numbers as well.

      For the top tabulator, use your index fingers alternately instead of hitting it with your entire hand.

      Hugging the keys with your fingers allows you to type faster, much like a drummer keeps the sticks closer to the drumhead when drumming quickly.

    1. Back in the day people used custom erasers for erasing. They were much harder than the softer erasers in use now, which is why modern pencil and art erasers don't work as well. For some historical methods, see these videos or here.

      Secretaries also used small eraser shields to target individual letters, words, or lines. They also used larger curved shields for erasing within carbon copy packs.

      Eaton used to make Ko-rec-type tabs which could be inserted for short corrections and it can still be found online as old stock.

      There was also bichrome ribbon with white correction tape, but that tends to fleck off and make a mess in your machine over time. Similarly White Out is still made, but it can spill and make a mess while you wait for it to dry.

      For modern typists, hand-held correction tape is probably the quickest and easiest.


      This could be expanded for the widest range of history on erasing using typewriters with caveats, etc.

      reply to u/Fearless_Camera_1788 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ixmz88/how_to_erase/

    1. Highest price you’d spend

      reply to u/Pope_Shady at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1iwrlij/highest_price_youd_spend/

      Generally my cap for typewriter purchases is in the $20-35 range. Most of my favorite machines (the standards) were acquired for $5-10 and they're so much better than the portables. At these prices I'm not too worried about the level of work required. I regularly spend 3-4 times more money on a full reel of bulk typewriter ribbon than I do on a typical typewriter.

      A few of my more expensive acquisitions: * I went as high as $100 on a machine (including shipping) to get a Royal Quiet De Luxe with a Vogue typeface that turned out to be in about as stunning a condition as one could hope for. * I went to $130 on an Olympia SM3 in part for it's Congress elite typeface as well as an uncommon set of mathematical characters. I'm sure I could have gotten it for significantly less, but wanted to help out the seller and it was in solid condition except for worn bushings. * I also went to around $150 for an (uncommon in the US) early 30's Orga Privat 5 that was in solid shape. I've yet to run into another Orga in the wild in the US since.

      It also bears saying that I don't mind buying "barn machines" as a large portion of the fun in collecting for me is cleaning, adjusting, and restoring them to full functionality. I've been dissapointed once to have bought a Remington Quiet-Riter once for $10 only to discover it was in near mint condition and didn't need any work at all.

      I am at the point where I'm going to need to start selling machines, work at a local shop, or start my own shop if I'm going to keep up with the "hobby" and maintain a sane spouse simultaneously. If I didn't enjoy wrenching on machines so much, I would definitely be buying them from local shops for significantly more money, and I'd probably have far fewer.

      It's not talked about in great length in some typewriter collector spaces, but I think some of the general pricing "game", beyond just getting a "deal", is the answer to the questions: "What am I into this space for anyway? What makes it fun and interesting?" If you don't have the time, talent, tools, or inclination to do your own cleaning and restoration work, then paying $300-$600 for a nice machine in exceptional clean/restored condition from a shop is a totally valid choice and shouldn't be dismissed. Some are in it for the discussions of typewriters. Some are in it for the bargain hunt. Some just want to write. Some want rare gems. Some want common machines from famous writers. Others just want one "good" machine while others want all the machines. It's a multi-faceted space.

    1. Typewriter Market: It may be better if you didn't get an Olympia SM3 typewriter today.

      I'm not out to shame people for their purchases, just to caution uninitiated typewriter purchasers and budding collectors who aren't carefully watching the market.

      Olympia SM3s are well-touted and excellent typewriters. They've recently been selling on ShopGoodwill in unknown condition for $120-150 based only on photos.

      Earlier today, an Olympia SM3 sold for $334! So what gives? Why did this go for over twice as much as the average? To the uninitiated, the seasoned collector can look at this machine carefully and realize that even without seeing a type sample or a close up photo of the slugs that this machine is quietly hiding a script typeface of some kind. This means that two bidders would have paid an almost $200 premium for a script typeface, and one of them managed to snipe it for $1 with minutes left. Generally I see script machines going for $100-150 over similar machines without script.

      Sadly, the high price on this machine earlier in the day may have suckered others into thinking these machines are significantly more valuable as it seems two other Olympia SM3s right after it both went for:<br /> * $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222707079 * $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546519

      And they were bid over 200 by the same two people while the "smarter" money stopped with bids at $137 on both.

      Of course, neither of these later two machines have a script face, but at least two bidders were potentially reeled in by the much higher sales price of the script machine earlier in the day. This means that they've overpayed at least $50 above market for each, possibly thinking that they may have gotten a great deal. Sadly they didn't, they just overpayed the market average. The person who was sniped on both managed to save themselves $100+ today because I imagine they'll be able to get equivalent machines in the coming month for closer to under $150.

      Incidentally another later Olympia portable (usually in the $75-120 range) earlier in the day went for a more reasonable $232 with a stated/photographed cursive typeface: https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546740 This one was a stronger deal in the current market as they only paid about $110 above average for that machine to get the script typeface. The tough part is that because the description stated "cursive", they didn't have the benefit of possibly picking up a script machine with less competition.

      While this is an interesting microcosm example of the current (overheated?) typewriter market (at least in the US), I hope all the buyers of these machines enjoy their purchases. If they're your first Olympias, and they need some work to get back to fighting shape, I've put together a guide: https://boffosocko.com/2024/07/14/aggregated-resources-and-playlist-for-a-crash-course-on-the-olympia-sm3-portable-typewriter/

      syndication link

    1. reply to u/Ill_Tear8308

      Not so much that they're proprietary, but the Zephyr, Skyriter, and later Corsairs used the 1 5/8" diameter spools, which fit about 12 yards of ribbon versus the more common universal 2" spools which will hold 16 yards of ribbon.

      1/2" wide ribbon should work on this. Sellers include: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you wind it onto pre-existing spools keep in mind that Smith-Coronas typically used eyelets in the ribbon to effect the auto-ribbon reverse, though you could certainly do it manually if you needed to.

      There aren't a lot of examples of Empire-Coronas in the typewriter database, so be sure to include your example with photos:

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/empire.24.typewriter-serial-number-database

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/Empire.-Corona+Skyriter.24.bmys

    1. reply to u/HenRoRo61


      Earlier today, in a now-deleted post, someone had posted a question about identifying one of Helen Keller's typewriters based on this video in her archive.

      Having done some initial digging, I thought I'd share some of the details I've found for those who may find it interesting.

      According to researcher Richard Polt, Helen Keller was known to use both a Hammond and an L.C. Smith no. 5.

      As for the Remington Noiseless, it definitely appears to be a mid-century Noiseless Standard with a tabulator. To know the year, you'd need either the specific serial number (to cross check https://typewriterdatabase.com/remington.42.typewriter-serial-number-database) or you'd need many more examples than the Typewriter Database currently has listed under the generic Remington Noiseless.

      If you're careful at looking at the design choices and changes in some of the Remington Portables from that time period which would have likely tracked the design changes of their desktop standards, you might be able to extrapolate a closer dating based on the styling, but this will still only give you a dating within a year or so.

      The tabulator was at the top of the keyboard by 1937, so you can probably presume it was a model from that point or thereafter until 1954. Most American typewriter manufacturers didn't make machines from '41-45 due to WWII, so you can discard those dates. Remington had moved into thicker/taller plastic keys by the early 1950s, so I would guess her machine was more likely from the late 1940s.

      Looking more closely at the Remington Noiseless 10, I'd suggest that this is the most likely set of candidates, particularly in the timeframe of 1946-1947. Hers obviously had the openings in the rear and had the metal covers on the sides (as opposed to glass found on some models). Comparing hers in the film to some of these individual galleries may help to narrow things down with respect to dating.

      Perhaps others with more Remington Standard experience, may be able to narrow things down here.

      The appraisal of her Remington Noiseless in 1957 was $135.00.

      One might find some close noiseless models in the $20-40 range + shipping (these are about 30 pounds and will cost about $35 for shipping) via ShopGoodwill.com. Here are some recent sales for comparison. Based on the video you'll want the bigger, heavier ones (25+ pounds) rather than the smaller portables with cases (usually under 20 pounds). Generally machines purchased this way are reasonably functional, but usually need some cleaning and work to be restored to full functionality.

      Unless you're sure they're being sold by repair shops and have been cleaned and are fully functional, don't overspend on potential exemplars on sites like Etsy or eBay which are likely to be only marginally better (aka dusted off) than ShopGoodwill machines, but at 5-10x the price.

      Hellen Keller's brailler: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B049-183&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

      She apparently owned a \~1938 or 1939 Corona Silent as well: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B045-184.1.1&srpos=19&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

      One might have some luck trying to find a Corona Silent typewriter from that era, but the unique color is going to put a machine like it into the $100-200 range (at a minimum and potentially going up from there depending on the condition) unless you get lucky at a garage sale somewhere.

  5. Jan 2025
    1. I only tend to give my typewriters "names" once they're fully cleaned and generally restored and have used them for a bit to know their "character". An example here is my 1950 Royal KMG (Keset Magic Gray) which I call "Sterling" after the Mad Men character Roger Sterling; I also cleaned the the interior with bourbon as an homage.

      Many I refer to by year of manufacture and model name ('55 Clipper or '48 Clipper, for example), particularly when I have several similar looking ones from the same time period. A few have names based on writers who I know have used the same models from roughly the same time period (so I have a '49 Royal QDL I've named "Nabokov"). My '48 Royal QDL I call "Dreyfuss" in honor of the typewriter's industrial designer who lived a few miles away from me.

      Others are referred to by shorthands featuring unique characteristics, so I have one called "The Vogue" and another I call the "Math SM3" for it's unique math symbol characters. My Remington 666 is variously either "El Diablo" or "Robert Johnson", whose music I listen to while typing on it. I have a German Orga which I call the "Wonka Machine" as one of its brethren appeared in Willy Wonka's office in Charlie and The Chocolate Factory (1971).

      A few I call by the first names of their prior owners as an homage to their history before I became their caretakers.

      I call my Royal HH the "HHE" as that's the serial number prefix for my machine which has an elite face.

      What you call your own is entirely up to you.

      More on typewriters and naming: https://boffosocko.com/2024/05/25/collective-nouns-for-typewriters-and-typists/


      Reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1id4y49/how_to_refer_to_a_typewriter/ by r/ich_mag_frettchen

    1. Hi, it depends on the shop and the person doing the work. I diagnose for a flat fee of $20. For manual machines, general cleaning and service is billed at $165 with repairs at $65/hrs plus parts. Teardowns and restorations are billed purely hourly. This job is a total of $1,100 with the teardown as well as a frame weld. The welding required parts prepping, gas fees, post processing... and took about 5 hours total. The rest of the machine is about 15 hours so far. Still have about four to go. So yeah, I'm technically supposed to bill another $400 or so, but I'm going to let that slide since the client is already paying a lot for a machine worth way less. Typewriter repair is expensive, especially when it's done to the level of detail that I go to. Very few shops put this much care and attention into these machines. All that being said, the average job on a manual typewriter at my shop usually runs around $300. Full clean, and usual repairs

      Typewriter Chicago / Lucas Dul rates: - Diagnosis for $20 - Manuals: general cleaning and service: $165 - repairs at $65/hour plus parts - average job on manuals runs around $400 - teardowns and restorations billed purely hourly around $55/hour

      This example is $1,100 for 5 hours of frame/welding work and 15 hours of tear down, cleaning and re-assembly. He'll likely go 4 hours over, but is discounting it.

    1. Making Custom Typewriter Line Spacings by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      I suspected JVC would have a custom cut platen gear, but he's using a premarked backing sheet to adjust each line to do one and a half line spacing.

      Joe mentions that the manual adjustments on each line is a net positive in that it gives him some time to pause and collect his thoughts before continuing writing on each line.

    1. Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

      Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

      Basic Tools

      • screwdriver sets
        • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
        • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
        • long reach screwdriver
        • magnetic screwdriver
        • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
        • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
        • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
        • grab hooks
      • pliers
        • standard needle nose pliers
        • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
        • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
        • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
      • Mechanics' wrench set
        • prefer cast ones
        • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
        • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
      • Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
      • Tweezers
      • Blowtorches
        • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
        • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
        • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
      • Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
        • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
      • MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
      • strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
      • knife (butter knife)
        • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
      • flashlight (simple is fine)
      • marker (Sharpie)
        • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
      • hammer
      • retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
      • Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
      • Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

      Intermediate Tools

      • segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
      • drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
      • carpenter's pencil for marking

      Advanced/Specialty tools

      • t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
      • 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
      • peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
      • wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
      • eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
      • files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

      Very specialized

      • Type slug solder jig or solder guide (30:52)
      • keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
      • multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

      Honorable mentions

      • center punch for drilling points and new screws
      • dental mirror for looking into machines
      • spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

      Q&A

      air compressors are useful for cleaning

      Don't damage screws on older machines.

      US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

      3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

  6. Dec 2024
    1. The 2023 Rover Typewriter: Worst Machine Ever? by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

      I know Michaels was carrying the We R Memory Keepers typewriter, but hadn't heard about Home Depot carrying them.

      Rover made by Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company still making typewriters (bad quality control, plastic, poor alignment). These are variously rebadged as: - the Rover - the Royal Epoch - We R Memory Keepers (Michaels, Home Depot) - Royal Classic (metal shell) - Maplefield (Target, Walmart, Michaels) - The Oliver Typewriter Company

      Will Davis has determined that they're all based on the Olympia Carina.

    1. (Some summary of ring & cylinder adjustments based on other notes)

      A new platen in many cases will help to solve some of the proximal problem, but you'll still have heavy wear on your paper/ribbon and your new platen over time as a result. The first adjustments a pro typewriter repair person would make after installing a new platen would be to check the ring & cylinder, on feet, and motion which can all be subtly out of alignment with a new platen.

      Pretty much every typewriter in modern era has adjustment points for this. All three of the machines you name definitely do. You'll find some of the basics and adjustment points for several machines described at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1945-AMES-OAMI-MechanicalTrainingMan.v1-ringcylinder.manual. If you look at the manuals for specific machines that Ted Munk has collected at the typewriterdatabase.com, you'll find how/where to make those adjustments. Several on Polt's website describe the adjustment as well: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Some sources may describe the adjustment as hammer and anvil as opposed to ring and cylinder.

      You're also likely to find YouTube videos on them as well (I'd check Phoenix Typewriter's channel first, though I do recall he mislabeled one once on a S-C Skyriter which was really an on feet/motion adjustment.) Duane's also got a really subtle and uncommon adjustment on a Royal QDL here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOET0i3DsR8

      Gerren gives an adjustment nod for the Olympia SM series here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2jnC6ODB834&t=670s And here's a blogpost about the adjustment points for an Olympia SF: https://ber10thal.com/blog/repairing-a-1961-olympia-sf/

      Related blogposts from Munk for a Brother JP-1:

      Hopefully your machines and hardware appreciate the finer adjustments and wear better over time as a result.

      Happy typing!

    1. The last adjustment I needed to make is sometimes called ring and cylinder. It moves the platen closer or further from the typebars. I think the rubber on the platen over time dried and shrunk a bit. I used this adjustment to move the platen closer in order to get a better type imprint. (note: you have to loosen two screws on each side of the carriage [4 screws] in the next photo before making this adjustment.)
    1. reply to u/Jbhusker at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hk15pf/the_frenzy_continues_where_does_it_end/ on an old and rough looking Underwood No. 3 from 1927

      The shipping price is suspicious as even Shopgoodwill wouldn't ship it for that low. I do notice some online sellers playing games between machine pricing and shipping. They'll often price a machine lower than "market" and then make up for it with an astronomical shipping price. This example seems to have gone the other way, which may help some novice typewriter purchasers who wouldn't understand that this is a 30# machine.

      What's going on in this example does present some interesting analysis of the current market.

      Possibilities driving the price here: - Week before Christmas and someone is burning spare cash on a decorative/nostalgic present at the last minute. (I've noticed prices on everything going up in the last two months at a greater than usual clip. I suspect things will come crashing down a bit after the New Year.) - It was photographed well. - Included a video of it actually typing as proof that it "works". - It has the look of having been cleaned up despite the look of old patina which was left to make the machine show its age. Look at the exterior screws which appear cleaned/refinished while portions of the exterior don't. In fact, the underlying servicer (Adam of Brooksaw Antiques) seems to specialize in servicing machines to working order but leaving lots of age and patina on them almost as if they're being aged up on purpose. They've got lots of examples on a variety of socials as well as presences on Etsy and Ebay, which speaks to some level of experience. Given the appearance of experience here, I'd bet the machine shows up in the condition it was shipped. - "New ink" decreases the stress of the buyer on finding it themself (potentially a $30-50 value to the customer) and it only cost the seller $2, because I'm dead certain they bought it in bulk. - The eBay reviews of this shop are stunning over 931 items. The lowest is a 4.9 out of 5, which I'm guessing is someone dinging them on shipping price from an earlier sale where they had more realistic shipping numbers on large standards. - "Military Sand" may possibly have been misinterpreted as this being a mill. It is a great marketing name for the color in any case. - I would guess that the purchaser is buying this as a single showpiece for nostalgia's sake. They're getting the bonus that it works. (Like Kirk, I'm not a big fan of the refurb paint on these.) - Its the week before Christmas...

    1. reply to u/Rocky__1927 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hirzo5/remington_premier/

      As Ted Munk has commented on these before, rare is a reach. They're uncommon primarily because they didn't manufacture as many of these as they did of the American Quiet-Riters (or Office- or Letter-Riters). I would suspect it's stamped as made in Great Britain (though actually made in Scotland) after American manufacture moved there in the late 50s/early 60s where they only made them for a short time before switching over to more plastic bodied machines. Probably has a serial number starting with ERP on the frame near the ribbon cup. It's essentially a Quiet-Riter made in Scotland with smooth paint rather than crinkle. Surely some of the manufacturing process and materials will be slightly different/cheaper.

      There may be a completist Remington collector who might pay over $100 for it, but I wouldn't think you'd have an easy time getting over $75 for this unless it's in excellent/serviced condition, particularly when ubiquitous QRs with sturdier cases can be had for $10-25 in similar condition.

    1. ELEMENTARY TYPING <br /> via Periscope Film #15494

      Elementary Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Periscope Film, #15494, 1971. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdyoPu_ASw.<br /> running time: 00:12:06

      Produced by Moreland-Latchford Productions, Ltd this informational film from 1971 titled “Elementary Typing” teaches the basics of becoming a good typist. The film features a manual Typemaster, a trade name used by Underwood as far back as the 1930s. This version of the machine featured both red and black ribbons. An electric version is seen at 9:00.

      The film is broken down into different sections that focus on different elements of typing from the rhythmic beat of typing to optimal hand positioning as well as how to set up a typewriter. “Elementary Typing” is part of a larger film series related to the art of typing with other titles including “Posture and the Keyboard,” “First Step Typing,” “Machine Techniques,” and “Remedial Typing.” Advisors for the creation of the film include James Treliving Commercial Coordinator North York Board of Education, J.T. Albani East York Board of Education, Sheila Wright Etobicoke Board of Education, and Ronald Thelander Director of Audio-Visual Aids Metropolitan Separate School Board, Toronto. In addition, the film was directed by Rod Maxwell and written by Robert Browning and featured Alex Veltman as the cameraman, Carl Connell as editor, Joe Hayward as production head, and James McCormick as executive producer.

      Pink illustrated typewriter on navy blue background (0:09). Outline of topics covered (0:17). A: early rhythm and reading – metronome and hands typing in the background (0:22). Aerial view of hands typing on an 197X Underwood Typemaster model typewriter (0:42). Camera pans words typed on a page (1:27). Close-up of letters being printed onto a page (1:36). Woman sitting at desk typing quickly (2:24). B: Paper Insertion – close-up of typewriter and hand setting the paper guide at the correct place on the paper table (2:35). Explanation of correct form and technique for holding and inserting paper (2:58-4:23). Explanation of paper removal (4:26). Badminton player returning various shots (4:41). Close-up of hands on the typewriter emphasizing the art of positioning (5:07). C: The Shift – explanation of the shift key (5:15-6:30). D: The Carriage Return – close-up of the device (6:32). The woman types and uses the carriage return (6:46-9:00). The Electric Typewriter – comparison between 197X Underwood Type Master manual model and Underwood 765 Type Master electric model typewriter (9:04). Difference between typing strategies (10:03). Benefits of using an electric machine (10:20). Closing credits (11:35).