1,384 Matching Annotations
  1. May 2025
    1. reply to u/highspeed_steel at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1krspvh/im_totally_blind_and_new_to_typewriters_wax/

      Your question is a great one, but I'll go another direction since I'd dug into some of the history and details of Helen Keller's mid-century typewriters a while back. You can find some details and descriptions here (and in the associated links which includes an accessible video of Ms. Keller using a solid and sexy black Remington Noiseless standard typewriter): https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ihot96/helen_kellers_typewriters/

      She managed on both her Remington as well as her brailler as well as any sighted person, though obviously had someone to check her printed work.

      I recently saw another heavily modified midcentury typewriter for someone who, if I recall correctly was not only blind, but had no arms. It was set up so that they could move a selector and type using a custom chin rest. Sadly, I didn't index it at the time, but it's interesting to know that such things existed for accessibility reasons.

      As for Braillers, you might appreciate this recent article about a repairman in Britain who was retiring: https://www.theguardian.com/society/2025/jan/02/wed-be-stuck-alarm-as-uks-last-braille-typewriter-repairer-ponders-retirement

      I've got my own brailler, which is a sleek-looking art-deco industrial piece of art with the loveliest shade of dark shiny gray paint I've ever seen on a typewriter. (I'm both a mathematician and information theorist into the areas of coding and cryptography, so Morse code, Braille, etc. are professionally fascinating to me.) I still need to take it apart and repair a few portions to get it back to perfection, but it generally works well.

      As for the aesthetics, I personally enjoy the solid industrial look and feel of the machines from the 1930s-1960s. The early 30s and some 40s have glossy black enamel and machines like the Corona Standard/Silent from the 30s are low slung with flat tops that sort of resemble small pianos and just scream out "I'm a writer" with a flair for dark academia and just a hint of classical Roman design. Many of these machines come with gold tinged water-slide decals which really set themselves off against the black enamel, though on the majority of machines the gold is beginning to dim from time, wear, and uncareful application of cleaning solutions.

      I love the Royal KMM, KMG, and the Remington 17, Standard, and Super-Riter for their industrial chonkiness and (usually) their glass keytops. One of my favorites is the Henry Dreyfuss designed Royal Quiet De Luxe from 1948 which always gives me the feel of what it would look like if a typewriter wore a tuxedo or the 1948 gray and chrome model which is similar but has the feel of a sleek gray flannel suit on a 1950s advertising executive prone to wearing dapper hats, smoking cigarettes, and always with a cocktail in his hand. Into the 50s and 60s almost everyone had moved to plastic keytops which I don't think are as pretty as the older glass keytops with the polished metal rings around them.

      At the opposite end of that spectrum are the late 50s Royal FP and Futura 800s which have some colorful roundness which evokes the aesthetic of the coming space age. They remind me of the modern curves and star shapes of the television show The Jetsons. Similarly space-aged are the sexy curves of the silver metalic spray paint on wooden cases for the Olympia SM3 from the same period. These to me are quintessential typewriter industrial design. In gray, green, maroon, brown, and sometimes yellow crinkle paint with just a hint of sparkle in their keytops I really love the combination of roundedness and slight angularity these German designed machines provide. They have a definite understated sort of elegance most other typewriters just miss. I suspect that late-in-life Steve Jobs would have had an Olympia SM3.

      There's something comforting about the 40s and 50s sports-car vibe of the smaller Smith-Corona portables of the 5 series machines in the 1950s with their racing stripes on the hood. They feel like the sort of typewriter James Dean would have used as a student—just hip enough to be cool while still be solid and functional.

      Sadly into the 70s, while machines typically got a broader range of colors outside of the typical black, gray, and browns things became more plastic and angular. They also begin to loose some of the industrial mid-century aesthetic that earlier machines had. They often feel very 70s in an uncomplimentary way without the fun color combinations or whimsy that art and general design of of that period may have had in the music or fashion spaces. They make me think of politics and war rather than the burgeoning sexual revolution of the time period.

      Interestingly, for me, I feel like most typewriter design was often 10-20 years behind the general design aesthetic/zeitgeist for the particular decades in which they were made.

      Good luck in your search for the right typewriter(s) for your own collection.

    1. reply to u/Omega48boar at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1knsgn8/pressure/

      I was wondering what the upper limit psi would be for blowing out the gunk using an air compressor.

      The highest air compressor pressures may be determined by your particular compressor's (or air canister's) maximum output as well as the maximum suggested output for any accessories you're attaching to it. Many basic air gun attachments have a max PSI of around 100 PSI even when the compressor will produce much higher outputs.

      Generally I find that for most benchwork on typewriters anywhere from 50-100 PSI is generally more than sufficient.

      Depending on the condition of your surroundings, I recommend putting a towel (or similar material) underneath your typewriter with a solid backstop so that if any springs, screws, or other valuable parts are blown loose, they're caught pretty quickly by the towel rather than flying across the room or down onto the floor out of sight.

      Higher pressure settings may be useful in some cases. One should always take care to be wearing protective garments and eyewear to prevent being spattered with caustic chemicals. Similarly protecting plastics, paint, and decals on your typewriter with appropriate cover is advised with some solvents.

      Operating the compressor, which can cause sparks as well as heat, at a reasonable distance from potential flammable vapors is also a mandatory safety precaution. Using volatile solvents frequently seen in typewriter cleaning procedures should only be done in the open in a well-ventilated area using appropriate masks to prevent inhalation of vapors. Long term exposure to vapors of substances like lacquer thinner can cause lung damage, COPD, and other adverse health effects.

      For extended usage pending the sorts of air gun tips which might be used for typewriter cleaning, one is also well advised to use ear protection to prevent long term hearing damage/loss.

    1. Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/


      People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.

    1. SCM Electric Typewriters by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Tips for cleaning the Smith-Corona 6 series electric typewriters and details about how they work.

      S-C also made this series of typewriter for both Sears and Singer under their branding. (including the Singer Electric in this video.)

      The belts on the electric motor and cams was originally a rubber 'V' belt which is no longer manufactured. Using 1/8" round cross-section o-rings of appropriate sizes (for water cannister applications) is the recommended replacement, however one may need to slightly move the drive motor down a bit so that the belt doesn't hit the frame of the typewriter and thereby destroying it over time.

      Cleaning and lubricating the drive motors and moving pieces before using may help before trying out a typewriter which has been sitting for long periods of time.

      Some later models had an electric return, which can tend to be violent. Electro 220 and Coronet Automatic 12 have an additional clutch and draw band (and lack of return lever on the carriage) for their electric returns.

    1. reply to u/letsjustwrite and u/CowCommercial1992 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1iilo0f/re_inking_ribbons/

      None of these are really prohibitively expensive, especially when purchased in bulk. Both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line offer black/red bichrome ribbon in most of these materials for a very reasonable price:

      • nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard
      • silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard
      • cotton ribbon $0.25/yard

      If you're going to buy even 3-6 spools of ribbon at individual prices of $9-20 per spool, you may as well make the investment in a half or full reel of inked typewriter ribbon and save yourself a lot of hassle. My guess is that if you're buying your own ribbon in small quantities, you're going to pay even more than these prices to have uninked ribbon. Unless you have some serious equipment and technique, you're highly unlikely to be able to ink your own bichrome ribbon, so you're stuck with monochrome.

      While using ink stamp pads is "doable", it's a lot of work for a very poor result.

      I've yet to hear of more than a very tiny handful of people who are interested in the art or process of this to bother with attempting to re-ink typewriter ribbon, silk or otherwise. Generally, if they do it for any reason (other than the one time "fun of it"), it's for environmental reasons rather than pricing ones.

      As an inveterate tinkerer, I've tried some of my own re-inking experiments to very mixed results. I've given up bespoke ribbon for bulk purchases.

    1. There are generally only a few configurations for ribbon vibrators with respect to ribbon threading, look at a few manuals here and surely yours will be covered by one: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      Typically the rule is that the ribbon sits closer to the paper at the typing point than any piece of the vibrator and is then threaded through the arms of the vibrator. From there it often goes through holders at the ribbon cup and then into the spool.

    1. Mike Rossi on antiques for the collector

      For the inveterate collectors out there, I remember Mike Rossi's old TV show and recently saw he was dispensing advice about antiques, buying/selling, and collecting on his relatively new Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/antiquesalley/

      Others might appreciate his perspective on buying and selling of the secondary market of vintage pieces and antiques. While he doesn't specifically touch on typewriters (that I'm aware of) a lot of his pragmatic advice is broadly applicable.

      Here's an interesting one to start with: https://www.instagram.com/antiquesalley/reel/DJSXLwPhMjH/

      posted to https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1khupsb/mike_rossi_on_antiques_for_the_collector/

    1. After some continued research on the TWdB, I've come to realize that the "88" in the serial number has likely nothing to do with the palm tabulator.

      The 88 is for an extra character count due to more keys (44) versus the more standard 42 or 43 keys and similarly some examples with a 92 in the serial number corresponds to 46 characters. So there isn't a designator in the serial number for a palm tabulator.

      See: <br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1961-royal-fp.22586.typewriter<br /> - https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kg820b/just_bought_this_typewriter_for_10_at_a_charity/<br /> - https://amsterdamassassin.wordpress.com/2018/12/16/typecast-my-royal-fp-steampunk/

    1. https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kg820b/just_bought_this_typewriter_for_10_at_a_charity/

      For a second, I thought perhaps the "88" in the serial number was a designator for the palm tabulator, but one of the other two in the database doesn't have that option (visually), though the single picture (of 5853) looks like it may have broken off or been removed on that example: - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-royal-fp.1241.typewriter - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1961-royal-fp.5853.typewriter

      If you upload some additional photos of yours to the database, perhaps we can puzzle out what the "88" designator means if it's not the palm tabulator functionality?

      The E on FPE means "elite" or 12 characters per inch. The "13" indicates a 13 inch wide platen. The raw serial number seems to indicate it was made in 1960: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

    1. And is it true that you enjoy taking typewriters apart and putting them back together? Doherty : Of course. It’s just that I’m so attracted to these objects that I want to look inside them, to understand how they work. It’s a form of learning, for me it would be a dream to have a shop specializing in repairing typewriters. Maybe one day… Among the many, I love the Valentine model by Olivetti, sooner or later I absolutely want to visit Ivrea.

      The Olivetti Valentine is one of Pete Doherty's favorites.

  2. Apr 2025
    1. He recommends provid-ing machines that are sturdy enough towithstand heavy use, supervising chil-dren and others who might be too roughon delicate machines, and staying at-tentive to all of the machines.

      The majority of working typewriters are really no more delicate than any other machine out there. The growing myth that they're delicate kills me (and their future).

    1. I actually have pretty good feedback to share on this... I bought the remaining inventory from the guy that does these about 3 years back. We initially had a verbal agreement about me taking over the turboplaten business and we discussed the process in detail while loading a truck full of typewriters, but as the day wore on he seemed a little reluctant and when we started getting into inner/outer diameter measurements and specific PVC tubing he kinda clammed up. *For the record, I wasn't put out by it really as I had virtually zero intention of starting a platen business and told him as such- that any I made would likely only be for machines I sold. But it definitely felt weird as he literally gave me his custom built lathe and much of his tubing stock. 🤷🏻‍♂️ That said, I know how to make these from start to finish. The quality is decent enough, and the ones I got from him and the ones I made myself perform pretty well for the most part. However, I found some machines react poorly to the different material - causing escapement skip. The PVC material is bouncier than natural rubber, and doesn't play well with ALL typewriters without being specifically messed with during construction. His method of heat treatment of the tubing is what's supposed to combat this, but it's almost impossible to gauge the amount of heat needed for various machines specific escapements. All that to say; They're an interesting concept in theory, and given the right equipment could be a compelling alternative for natural rubber. But given what I saw and experienced in the process, I'd have a difficult time justifying paying essentially twice what JJ Short charges for one. Not saying you shouldn't, just sharing my experience.

      Nashville Typewriter tells the story of almost taking over the concept of Turboplaten.

      https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k0p2ha/turboplaten/ on 2025-04-16.

    1. reply to u/No-Entertainer-7217 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k45o89/typewriters_needing_new_ribbons/

      "Working but needs new ribbon" is almost always seller's code for I have no idea if it really works, but I'm going to try to sell you this machine for the price of a fully functioning machine that was just serviced by a professional shop despite the fact that I just took it out of grandpa's barn and I'm not sure if the mouse inside is dead or not. Also, I can't afford $10 to replace an old ribbon to truly participate in the charade of the price I'm going to try to fleece you with.

      Educate yourself a bit: <br /> - https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/29/first-time-typewriter-purchases-with-specific-recommendations-for-writers/ - buying typewriter ribbon: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1 and https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Ribbon - typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      If you want to tell people Tom Hanks taught you to change a typewriter ribbon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0. There are lots of other YouTube videos out there for specific machines as well as reviews of them.

      You can definitely test out a machine without ribbon, but if they're trying to charge you over $100 for a machine, it really should have fresh ribbon.

    1. In the US, you can get one hundred 4" mascara brushes for around $5. Eye Tees (cottton swabs with a firm point on one end and a flat tip on the other) cost roughly the same. You'll find them at most beauty supply stores or online. These get into tight spaces. Dipped in mineral spirits (or whichever solvent you've come to like), the brush gets the stuff loose and the Tee wipes it away. Blasting air helps as well. Works for me. Others will have other ideas.

      via u/scmowner

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jyr2hc/the_best_way_to_get_rid_of_all_this_gunk/

      Colloquial advice to use 4" mascara brushes as a replacement for a segment pick for cleaning out typewriters.

    1. Mathematics with Typewriters

      What you're suggesting is certainly doable, and was frequently done in it's day, but it isn't the sort of thing you want to subject yourself to while you're doing your Ph.D. (and probably not even if you're doing it as your stress-releiving hobby on the side.)

      I several decades of heavy math and engineering experience and really love typewriters. I even have a couple with Greek letters and other basic math glyphs available, but I wouldn't ever bother with typing out any sort of mathematical paper using a typewriter these days.

      Unless you're in a VERY specific area that doesn't require more than about 10 symbols, you're highly unlikely to be pleased with the result and it's going to require a huge amount of hand drawn symbols and be a pain to add in the graphs and illustrations. Even if you had a 60's+ Smith-Corona with a full set of math fonts using their Chageable Type functionality, you'd spend far more time trying to typeset your finished product than it would be worth.

      You can still find some typewritten textbooks from the 30s and 40s in math and even some typed lecture notes collections into the 1980s and they are all a miserable experience to read. As an example, there's a downloadable copy of Claude Shannon's master's thesis at MIT from 1940, arguably one of the most influential and consequential masters theses ever written, that only uses basic Boolean Algebra and it's just dreadful to read this way: https://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/11173 (Incidentally, a reasonable high schooler should be able to read and appreciate this thesis today, which shows you just how far things have come since the 1940s.)

      If you're heavily enough into math to be doing a Ph.D. you not only should be using TeX/LaTeX, but you'll be much, much, much happier with the output in the long run. It's also a professional skill any mathematician should have.

      As a professional aside, while typewriten mathematical texts may seem like a fun and quirky thing to do, there probably isn't an awful lot of audience that would appreciate them. Worse, most professional mathematicians would automatically take a typescript verison as the product of a quack and dismiss it out of hand.

      tl;dr in terms of The Godfather: Buy the typewriter, leave the thesis in LaTeX.


      a reply to u/Quaternion253 RE: Typing a maths PhD thesis using a typewriter at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1js3cs5/typing_a_maths_phd_thesis_using_a_typewriter/

    1. The majority of American machines (Royal, Remington, Smith-Corona) are 6 lines per inch and either 10 characters per inch (pica) or 12 CPI (elite). My guess would be that you'll see about 90% of people's machines covered across these specs with a roughly 60/40 split for pica vs. elite when it comes to planning print runs.

      Most European machines are like the Olympias and are labeled as 2.3 m/m which when multiplied out (25.4mm/inch x 1 character/2.3mm) gives 11.043 CPI. Generally they're also 6 lines per inch. In the US, most of the common (and still popular) imported typewriters are going to be the Olympia SM2, SM3, SM4, SM7, and SM9s and the three incarnations of the Hermes 3000.

      I've got a small collection of 50 mostly American machines across six decades with a few less common typefaces including Vogue, Gothic, and Congress Elite if you need some machines for nearby testing (I'm in Altadena, though temporarily still displaced). Most of my available machines are listed at https://typewriterdatabase.com/typewriters.php?hunter_search=7248

      There are definitely some smaller 16, 18, 20, and even 24 CPI machines, but they tend to have come on the larger Olympia standards which weigh in at 30-40 pounds and are unlikely to be lugged to ballparks the way that smaller portables and ultraportables might be. There are some larger format 6 CPI machines, but they tend to be much rarer and are more often found on 1970s Smith-Coronas. If you want to go crazy, I'd guess you're aware of Ted Munk's collection of typefaces and catalogs that can be found at: https://typecast.munk.org/category/typewriter-typestylesfonts/

      Incidentally, for fun, Bill Madden's book Yankees, Typewriters, Scandals, and Cooperstown: A Baseball Memoir is set for release tomorrow.

      Since you sound like a local Dodgers fan, I'd love to invite you to the upcoming SoCal Type-in I'm planning for Saturday, May 10th at Vroman's Bookstore in Pasadena: https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/25/youre-invited-to-a-southern-california-type-in/ I hope you'll have some final versions available by then. 😍

      reply posted 2025-04-01 at https://old.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jn2475/yes_tom_hanks_does_schlep_a_typewriter_to_ball/

    1. If you're curious about some of the technical details and how the are affected by the distribution of typefaces and sizes, I laid out some of them the other day: https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jn2475/comment/mks9rbc/

      Lou also has some great examples of scorekeeping across display sizes and level of data in his offerings at https://thirty81press.com/.

      The broader issue for most scorers is the limitation to 8.5 x 11" paper which is the most common page size for the ubiquitous portable and ultraportable typewriters from the mid-century. While there are some portables with carriages and platens that might accomodate up to 12" wide paper, they're not super common.

      To get machines with wider platens to get 11x14 or 11x17, you're going to need the significantly larger standard machines and unless you're rich enough to have a suite that you can securely store one in or a journalist with your own booth, not many baseball fans are going to cart a 35-45+ pound typewriter with them to all their games. Though this wouldn't prevent the fan viewing at home from scoring this way easily. My example above was done on a standard width carriage on a standard machine, but I did have several options to do it on a 12", 14", and even two 16" standard typewriters. Interestingly, most of my larger carriage machines are elite 12/6 (12CPI with 6 lines/inch) formats, and I don't think Lou has designed yet for that standard which would allow for an additional 15 characters to be distributed amidst the columns (while still keeping a minimum of 1/2" margins for some balanced white space). I'll be tinkering around with some of this myself in the coming week or so on 11x14" paper using a 15" wide platen on an elite machine to see how things might look.

      Perhaps a modified format at 8.5 x 11 that alternates the teams and splits a 12 inning game format across three sheets so that the typist can type down a single page without swapping sheets every half inning and realigning their page every time? But this would cause a lot of formating change versus traditional layouts to do so.

      I've also been tinkering with using small space characters like the - and the _ to indicate data (with or without the use of the variable line spacing mechanism) for things like tracking RBIs. The underline is particularly useful for this in Lou's three space layout.

  3. Mar 2025
    1. Old school repair guys used a lot of different stuff that's no longer available due to being... Not good. Ha. But naphta was one that's still widely available as white gas aka "coleman/camping fuel" Essentially naphtha with stabilizers to keep it from going bad. Mineral spirits works as well, but naphtha leaves less residue in my experience. Lacquer thinner is good for especially stubborn crap and cleaning slugs, but evaporates really fast and the fumes are no bueno. Alternatively; non toxic degreasing cleaners like simple green are usually my preferred method of cleaning up especially gross machines. Typically very safe on paint finishes and internals, just make sure to keep it off the decals. (It can and WILL erase them if it sits for more than 10 secs) Really though, nothing beats air and a long handled "paint" brush. My air compressor and blow out tube are some of my most cherished tools.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jm7c02/is_it_better_to_use_mineral_spirits_or_lighter/?sort=old

      quote from Nashville Typewriter

    1. Typewriter 17.2 Blickensderfer Typewriter; the Scientific keyboard 25.6 Burroughs Moon-Hopkins Typewriter/Calculator 01.9 Experiential Typewriter 05.3 Experiential Typewriter 21.0 Henry Mills' Typewriter 17.0 IBM Selectric Typewriter 11.2 Pneumatic Typewriters 45.6 Typewriters, reactionary use of antiquated 21.1 Typewriters: the Comptometer, the Numerograph, the book typewriter 45.2 mechanical typewriter

      https://web.archive.org/web/20190305042816/http://www.deadmedia.org/notes/index-cat.html#tw

    1. LogInternational2253 0 points1 point2 points 2 hours ago (0 children)Chandler AZ https://typecast.munk.org/2025/03/23/type-in-report-chandler-public-library-local-author-fair-type-in/?unapproved=214363&moderation-hash=308ce10a9ad2d68dea04b55046cf88e1#comment-214363

      Based on this comment and link,

      u/LogInternational2253 is Jared C Riddle from Arizona.

      Be sure to invite to Los Angeles type-ins.

    1. There's a few things going on here. Generally at SGW a gray Olympia SM3 in excellent "looking" condition like this one will go for $120-150. This one is also hiding a script typeface which will usually add another $110-150 of value, which would put it at the $300 mark. I'm sort of surprised that the original winner didn't actually pay for it at this price as that's likely what someone would honestly pay for one like this. (It's also possible that they forgot they won or didn't know and didn't pay for it in time too.)

      On today's listing, it's far, far more likely that someone wants it and either couldn't get it or pay for it now at the price that it was going to go for in a reasonable auction. They used a throw away accout to make an outrageous bid in hopes that in a week it'll be relisted and no one will notice the script typeface and it'll go for well under $200. (It won't.) This happens incredibly frequently for some of the less common typewriters. Usually it's machines with script or uncommon typefaces or uncommon character sets. Recent auctions for a gold plated Olympia SM3 and a Yellow Royal FP with a Gothic typeface come to mind. I've seen this also happen four or five times in a row before someone ultimately pays for a machine at some reasonable price.

      Honestly, SGW should have a policy that the second and third runners up for auctions that don't get paid for by winners should have the right of last refusal on auctions like this to prevent this sort of "gaming" of the system. If you search back in this sub, you'll see this topic coming up every couple of weeks with the same discussions over and over. The common wisdom is that a SGW auction isn't gone until the machine doesn't pop up anymore and actually "sold". And even then, if you wait a week or two, you'll usually see the exact machine pop up less than a month later on eBay being listed by the winner for an exorbitant amount (almost always without having done any additional cleaning or restoration work on it aside from maybe dusting it out.)

      Maybe we should add the tag #SGWgaming to all these conversations to make them easier to find?

      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jift5r/listing_on_the_right_was_a_month_ago_listing_on/

    1. The long, thin spring-loaded metal flap labeled the "paper conductor" on the SM3 and SM4 and labeled the "erasing table" on the SM2 are all the same part. They serve a few functions.

      They can be used for erasing mistakes certainly and help to keep dust and debris from going into the carriage and rollers.

      The "paper conductor" description sounds like a fun translation of something from German into English, but this part also prevents the paper which goes under the paper bail and forces it up and back to the paper table and the paper support. Presumably without it, a slightly curved piece of paper might be misrouted to go right back into the platen a second time as the paper advances.

      This sort of paper conductor/dust shield can also be found on some later 1960s+ Smith-Corona (SCM) machines. For example, see the Galaxie II which calls that part the erasure table.

    1. Jim Riegert, now in his 70s, remembers what it used to be like. "Back then, typewriters were pretty big. Typewriters and adding machines," he says, referring to desktop calculators. "It got really difficult in the typewriter business about 25 years ago," he says. "The internet was coming on and killing us, too." He runs Typewriters.com and, despite a decline in sales in recent decades, he still shifts four or five electric IBM typewriters every week.
    2. The factory is in Indonesia, he explains, and is run by a team from Nakajima, a typewriter manufacturing firm from Japan. Every year, Royal still sells around 20,000 new electric typewriters and more than double that amount of mechanical typewriters. The latter have become desirable partly as decoration – a librarian might buy one for a display at the front of their library, for instance, suggests Althoff. The mechanical and electric models Royal sells cost between $300 (£238) and $400 (£317).
    3. In 2013, jaw-dropping details emerged about the extent of US intelligence agency surveillance programmes. This prompted the Russian Federal Guard Service (FSO) to revert to typewriters in an attempt to evade eavesdropping. German officials were also reported to be considering a similar move in 2014. (During the Cold War, Soviet spies actually developed techniques for snooping on electric typewriter activity, a form of "keylogging" technology – where the keystrokes inputted on a keyboard are captured. US operatives also reconstructed text from typewriter ribbons – meaning that even typewriters aren't completely safe.)
    1. KoponewtPelicram ❤️ Slug Goblin 3 points4 points5 points 3 hours ago (3 children)Do you know what's the serial number on that? Some manufacturers had special models mostly for export purposes with extra keys. For example Royal 11 is a 10 with extra keys, Underwood No. 46 is a 5/3/6 with extra keys. Remington No. 9 is an 8 with extra keys.

      via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jgg4kh/royal_kmm_extra_column_of_keys/miyumvn/

    1. If you're a more serious writer, you're sure to find a smoother and better experience with a standard typewriter, but they're slightly larger and heavier (~30 pounds vs. ~15-22 pounds) than the portables. These are usually the ones I recommend if you're writing for several hours and have a dedicated space for your writing. Standards aren't as popular with most collectors, so they also tend to be less expensive.

      I really love my Royal KMG, HH, and FP and my Remington Standard and Remington 17 which are all serious machines. Here are some of the other more common standards for serious writers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r3533cSZ38


      Reply to u/RetailThrowAway69 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1je4owq/new_typewriter_for_a_keyboard_warrior_of_20_years/

    1. Almost every portable and ultra portable typewriter made from the 1930s onward came with a case that the typewriter locked into. On almost all of these the top of the typewriter case was easily removeable from the base with a spring loaded locking mechanism of some sort. This allowed the user to sit in almost any chair and use the typewriter on their lap. The thin case bottoms prevent dirt and oil from soiling one's clothes.

      Beginning in the late 60s/early 70s some manufacturers began making plastic tops that clipped onto the typewriter bodies, but often these are more brittle and prone to breaking/shattering due to the type and age of the plastic. (I'm looking at you Remington Streamliners...)

      Our cat used to love "hiding" in the wooden case tops of my 1940s and 1950s Smith-Coronas (Clippers, Sterlings, Silents, Silent Supers).

      It's really only the larger and much heavier standard machines that didn't come with cases at all.

    1. Why don't sellers include type samples in their ads? I mean, it's the core function of a typewriter. It's the reason for this machine to exist in the first place. Are these people so ignorant that they only see the decorative aspect of typewriters? I've even seen machines in "perfect working order" for horrendous prices without a type sample. This is so ridiculous. How on earth could I find a machine with a nice typeface? How do I see if a machine is well aligned? And most of these strange people don't even bother to send a type sample on request, because "the ribbon is dry". Dang!

      reply to u/andrebartels1988 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jcsp6t/rant_over_online_sellers/

      No, they're either ignorant or actively trying to hide the fact that their machine was bought for $5 at a yard sale and they're trying to match the pricing of pro shops that have cleaned, oiled, adjusted and repaired a machine which far exceeds the misery they're selling because they have absolutely no idea what goes into a good machine.

      People doing the work to show type samples and video of their machines are usually far, far more legitimate. These people are also going to give you $2 of new ribbon for free with purchase.

      Without a type sample or video, all but the rarest machines aren't worth more than $20.

    1. I found on etsy: TheModernTypewriter that sells ribbons. Are they any good?

      I've never used them. They're probably alright. Looks like they're specializing in engraved spools more than anything. My guess is that they're buying ribbon in bulk from Baco or Fine Line and passing along the cost and adding some additional profit.

      Here's typical bulk pricing:

      nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard cotton ribbon $0.25/yard If you can get a spool's worth of nylon ribbon (16 yards) for about $1.50 to $3, do you really want to pay $8 or more plus shipping? If I'm going to do this (usually for small quantities of custom colored ribbon), I'm going to buy it from a local shop to help support them and keep them open.

      There are obviously lots of options you can choose from, ultimately you'll do what works best/quickest/cheapest for you.

    1. Tested 100s of heavy desk typewriters, Here is the top 5 revealed. by [[Mr & Mrs Vintage Typewriters]]

      Top Five Standard Typewriters:<br /> - Imperial 55 - Imperial 70 (after this they went to cheaper plastic parts); removable carriage, swappable typefaces; removeable core - Hermes Ambassador - removable carriage - Underwood Standards, esp. 5 - Royal 10 (carriage shift); (and subsequent incarnations like the KH, KMM, KMG, HH, FP) - Olympia SG1 (the "crown jewel" of desktop typewriters)

      Also rans: - Olivetti Lexicon, Olivetti Graphica - Contintental m40 & m20 - Mercedes

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1j7jv3x/things_found_inside_a_typewriter/

      via u/NisKildegaard:

      Bobby pins, staples, safety pins, paper clips ... Postage stamps, coins... Pencils and erasers... Notes, business cards, shopping lists... A dental X-ray -- I think it was a molar. And the other week, a firecracker. One machine I bought for a bargain price, listed as parts/repair, turned out to be nonfunctional because a toothbrush was stuck inside the mechanism. I'm guessing it was originally intended as a cleaning tool, but ended up gumming the works entirely.

    1. reply to u/bethcano at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1j3z646/whats_a_fair_price_these_days_for_a_hermes_3000/

      In the US I've been seeing them go for around $250 based only on photos without any additional information about whether they work or other condition.

      Platforms like eBay and ShopGoodwill.com will allow you to search for actual sales (see the advanced settings) and this will give you a much better picture of what the prices are versus people listing them for several hundred more (usually to match the prices of professional shops that are listing theirs in cleaned, oiled, and adjusted condition). (Remember when shopping: Condition is king!)

      See:

      Keep in mind that prices may be dramatically different in your country based on how ubiquitous they were when they were originally manufactured.

      Expect to add $150-200+ for script or rarer typefaces, and another \~$150 if the platen has been recovered.

      $550 would not be uncommon if purchasing a pica or elite Hermes 3000 with a standard typeface in generally good cosmetic shape that's been professionally cleaned, oiled, and adjusted by a shop.

  4. Feb 2025
    1. Correcting Bad Typing Habits with the Smith Corona Electric Typewriter 63024 by [[PeriscopeFilm]]

      Motion should happen only at the level of the fingers and not at the wrist or even the arms. Type only with your fingers and not your wrists or arms.

      Allow the carriage to glide to complete the carriage return rather than wasting addition time and energy on pushing it all the way. Let the momentum do the work.

      Use the paper release when removing letters to reduce wear on your rollers and prevent ripping of the paper.

      See also at https://stock.periscopefilm.com/63024-correcting-bad-typing-habits-with-the-smith-corona-electric-typewriter/

      Drop the paper into the top of the platen and against the paper guide to improve alignment can save time.

      Setting the right hand margin will help save huge amounts of time from the transcriptionist looking back and forth to get proper margins otherwise.

      Using correct typing for numerals will speed up typing numbers as well.

      For the top tabulator, use your index fingers alternately instead of hitting it with your entire hand.

      Hugging the keys with your fingers allows you to type faster, much like a drummer keeps the sticks closer to the drumhead when drumming quickly.

    1. Smith-Corona electric typewriters were designed to be turned on and run all day. As a result, old machines which have v-belts with odd grooves in them from sitting so long will sometimes have a recurring thump sound. This can be remedied by running the machine for several hours at which point the belt will warm up and remove the crease. Naturally, one might also remove the belt, warm it up using other means as a method of removing age-related creasing.

    1. Back in the day people used custom erasers for erasing. They were much harder than the softer erasers in use now, which is why modern pencil and art erasers don't work as well. For some historical methods, see these videos or here.

      Secretaries also used small eraser shields to target individual letters, words, or lines. They also used larger curved shields for erasing within carbon copy packs.

      Eaton used to make Ko-rec-type tabs which could be inserted for short corrections and it can still be found online as old stock.

      There was also bichrome ribbon with white correction tape, but that tends to fleck off and make a mess in your machine over time. Similarly White Out is still made, but it can spill and make a mess while you wait for it to dry.

      For modern typists, hand-held correction tape is probably the quickest and easiest.


      This could be expanded for the widest range of history on erasing using typewriters with caveats, etc.

      reply to u/Fearless_Camera_1788 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ixmz88/how_to_erase/

    1. Highest price you’d spend

      reply to u/Pope_Shady at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1iwrlij/highest_price_youd_spend/

      Generally my cap for typewriter purchases is in the $20-35 range. Most of my favorite machines (the standards) were acquired for $5-10 and they're so much better than the portables. At these prices I'm not too worried about the level of work required. I regularly spend 3-4 times more money on a full reel of bulk typewriter ribbon than I do on a typical typewriter.

      A few of my more expensive acquisitions: * I went as high as $100 on a machine (including shipping) to get a Royal Quiet De Luxe with a Vogue typeface that turned out to be in about as stunning a condition as one could hope for. * I went to $130 on an Olympia SM3 in part for it's Congress elite typeface as well as an uncommon set of mathematical characters. I'm sure I could have gotten it for significantly less, but wanted to help out the seller and it was in solid condition except for worn bushings. * I also went to around $150 for an (uncommon in the US) early 30's Orga Privat 5 that was in solid shape. I've yet to run into another Orga in the wild in the US since.

      It also bears saying that I don't mind buying "barn machines" as a large portion of the fun in collecting for me is cleaning, adjusting, and restoring them to full functionality. I've been dissapointed once to have bought a Remington Quiet-Riter once for $10 only to discover it was in near mint condition and didn't need any work at all.

      I am at the point where I'm going to need to start selling machines, work at a local shop, or start my own shop if I'm going to keep up with the "hobby" and maintain a sane spouse simultaneously. If I didn't enjoy wrenching on machines so much, I would definitely be buying them from local shops for significantly more money, and I'd probably have far fewer.

      It's not talked about in great length in some typewriter collector spaces, but I think some of the general pricing "game", beyond just getting a "deal", is the answer to the questions: "What am I into this space for anyway? What makes it fun and interesting?" If you don't have the time, talent, tools, or inclination to do your own cleaning and restoration work, then paying $300-$600 for a nice machine in exceptional clean/restored condition from a shop is a totally valid choice and shouldn't be dismissed. Some are in it for the discussions of typewriters. Some are in it for the bargain hunt. Some just want to write. Some want rare gems. Some want common machines from famous writers. Others just want one "good" machine while others want all the machines. It's a multi-faceted space.

    1. Typewriter Market: It may be better if you didn't get an Olympia SM3 typewriter today.

      I'm not out to shame people for their purchases, just to caution uninitiated typewriter purchasers and budding collectors who aren't carefully watching the market.

      Olympia SM3s are well-touted and excellent typewriters. They've recently been selling on ShopGoodwill in unknown condition for $120-150 based only on photos.

      Earlier today, an Olympia SM3 sold for $334! So what gives? Why did this go for over twice as much as the average? To the uninitiated, the seasoned collector can look at this machine carefully and realize that even without seeing a type sample or a close up photo of the slugs that this machine is quietly hiding a script typeface of some kind. This means that two bidders would have paid an almost $200 premium for a script typeface, and one of them managed to snipe it for $1 with minutes left. Generally I see script machines going for $100-150 over similar machines without script.

      Sadly, the high price on this machine earlier in the day may have suckered others into thinking these machines are significantly more valuable as it seems two other Olympia SM3s right after it both went for:<br /> * $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222707079 * $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546519

      And they were bid over 200 by the same two people while the "smarter" money stopped with bids at $137 on both.

      Of course, neither of these later two machines have a script face, but at least two bidders were potentially reeled in by the much higher sales price of the script machine earlier in the day. This means that they've overpayed at least $50 above market for each, possibly thinking that they may have gotten a great deal. Sadly they didn't, they just overpayed the market average. The person who was sniped on both managed to save themselves $100+ today because I imagine they'll be able to get equivalent machines in the coming month for closer to under $150.

      Incidentally another later Olympia portable (usually in the $75-120 range) earlier in the day went for a more reasonable $232 with a stated/photographed cursive typeface: https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546740 This one was a stronger deal in the current market as they only paid about $110 above average for that machine to get the script typeface. The tough part is that because the description stated "cursive", they didn't have the benefit of possibly picking up a script machine with less competition.

      While this is an interesting microcosm example of the current (overheated?) typewriter market (at least in the US), I hope all the buyers of these machines enjoy their purchases. If they're your first Olympias, and they need some work to get back to fighting shape, I've put together a guide: https://boffosocko.com/2024/07/14/aggregated-resources-and-playlist-for-a-crash-course-on-the-olympia-sm3-portable-typewriter/

      syndication link

    1. reply to u/Ill_Tear8308

      Not so much that they're proprietary, but the Zephyr, Skyriter, and later Corsairs used the 1 5/8" diameter spools, which fit about 12 yards of ribbon versus the more common universal 2" spools which will hold 16 yards of ribbon.

      1/2" wide ribbon should work on this. Sellers include: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you wind it onto pre-existing spools keep in mind that Smith-Coronas typically used eyelets in the ribbon to effect the auto-ribbon reverse, though you could certainly do it manually if you needed to.

      There aren't a lot of examples of Empire-Coronas in the typewriter database, so be sure to include your example with photos:

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/empire.24.typewriter-serial-number-database

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/Empire.-Corona+Skyriter.24.bmys

    1. reply to u/HenRoRo61


      Earlier today, in a now-deleted post, someone had posted a question about identifying one of Helen Keller's typewriters based on this video in her archive.

      Having done some initial digging, I thought I'd share some of the details I've found for those who may find it interesting.

      According to researcher Richard Polt, Helen Keller was known to use both a Hammond and an L.C. Smith no. 5.

      As for the Remington Noiseless, it definitely appears to be a mid-century Noiseless Standard with a tabulator. To know the year, you'd need either the specific serial number (to cross check https://typewriterdatabase.com/remington.42.typewriter-serial-number-database) or you'd need many more examples than the Typewriter Database currently has listed under the generic Remington Noiseless.

      If you're careful at looking at the design choices and changes in some of the Remington Portables from that time period which would have likely tracked the design changes of their desktop standards, you might be able to extrapolate a closer dating based on the styling, but this will still only give you a dating within a year or so.

      The tabulator was at the top of the keyboard by 1937, so you can probably presume it was a model from that point or thereafter until 1954. Most American typewriter manufacturers didn't make machines from '41-45 due to WWII, so you can discard those dates. Remington had moved into thicker/taller plastic keys by the early 1950s, so I would guess her machine was more likely from the late 1940s.

      Looking more closely at the Remington Noiseless 10, I'd suggest that this is the most likely set of candidates, particularly in the timeframe of 1946-1947. Hers obviously had the openings in the rear and had the metal covers on the sides (as opposed to glass found on some models). Comparing hers in the film to some of these individual galleries may help to narrow things down with respect to dating.

      Perhaps others with more Remington Standard experience, may be able to narrow things down here.

      The appraisal of her Remington Noiseless in 1957 was $135.00.

      One might find some close noiseless models in the $20-40 range + shipping (these are about 30 pounds and will cost about $35 for shipping) via ShopGoodwill.com. Here are some recent sales for comparison. Based on the video you'll want the bigger, heavier ones (25+ pounds) rather than the smaller portables with cases (usually under 20 pounds). Generally machines purchased this way are reasonably functional, but usually need some cleaning and work to be restored to full functionality.

      Unless you're sure they're being sold by repair shops and have been cleaned and are fully functional, don't overspend on potential exemplars on sites like Etsy or eBay which are likely to be only marginally better (aka dusted off) than ShopGoodwill machines, but at 5-10x the price.

      Hellen Keller's brailler: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B049-183&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

      She apparently owned a \~1938 or 1939 Corona Silent as well: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B045-184.1.1&srpos=19&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

      One might have some luck trying to find a Corona Silent typewriter from that era, but the unique color is going to put a machine like it into the $100-200 range (at a minimum and potentially going up from there depending on the condition) unless you get lucky at a garage sale somewhere.

  5. Jan 2025
    1. I only tend to give my typewriters "names" once they're fully cleaned and generally restored and have used them for a bit to know their "character". An example here is my 1950 Royal KMG (Keset Magic Gray) which I call "Sterling" after the Mad Men character Roger Sterling; I also cleaned the the interior with bourbon as an homage.

      Many I refer to by year of manufacture and model name ('55 Clipper or '48 Clipper, for example), particularly when I have several similar looking ones from the same time period. A few have names based on writers who I know have used the same models from roughly the same time period (so I have a '49 Royal QDL I've named "Nabokov"). My '48 Royal QDL I call "Dreyfuss" in honor of the typewriter's industrial designer who lived a few miles away from me.

      Others are referred to by shorthands featuring unique characteristics, so I have one called "The Vogue" and another I call the "Math SM3" for it's unique math symbol characters. My Remington 666 is variously either "El Diablo" or "Robert Johnson", whose music I listen to while typing on it. I have a German Orga which I call the "Wonka Machine" as one of its brethren appeared in Willy Wonka's office in Charlie and The Chocolate Factory (1971).

      A few I call by the first names of their prior owners as an homage to their history before I became their caretakers.

      I call my Royal HH the "HHE" as that's the serial number prefix for my machine which has an elite face.

      What you call your own is entirely up to you.

      More on typewriters and naming: https://boffosocko.com/2024/05/25/collective-nouns-for-typewriters-and-typists/


      Reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1id4y49/how_to_refer_to_a_typewriter/ by r/ich_mag_frettchen

    1. Hi, it depends on the shop and the person doing the work. I diagnose for a flat fee of $20. For manual machines, general cleaning and service is billed at $165 with repairs at $65/hrs plus parts. Teardowns and restorations are billed purely hourly. This job is a total of $1,100 with the teardown as well as a frame weld. The welding required parts prepping, gas fees, post processing... and took about 5 hours total. The rest of the machine is about 15 hours so far. Still have about four to go. So yeah, I'm technically supposed to bill another $400 or so, but I'm going to let that slide since the client is already paying a lot for a machine worth way less. Typewriter repair is expensive, especially when it's done to the level of detail that I go to. Very few shops put this much care and attention into these machines. All that being said, the average job on a manual typewriter at my shop usually runs around $300. Full clean, and usual repairs

      Typewriter Chicago / Lucas Dul rates: - Diagnosis for $20 - Manuals: general cleaning and service: $165 - repairs at $65/hour plus parts - average job on manuals runs around $400 - teardowns and restorations billed purely hourly around $55/hour

      This example is $1,100 for 5 hours of frame/welding work and 15 hours of tear down, cleaning and re-assembly. He'll likely go 4 hours over, but is discounting it.

    1. Making Custom Typewriter Line Spacings by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      I suspected JVC would have a custom cut platen gear, but he's using a premarked backing sheet to adjust each line to do one and a half line spacing.

      Joe mentions that the manual adjustments on each line is a net positive in that it gives him some time to pause and collect his thoughts before continuing writing on each line.

  6. Dec 2024