2,137 Matching Annotations
  1. May 2026
    1. reply to u/deleted at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1te4u1i/state_of_the_typosphere/

      Two or three typewriter repair shops have opened up in the past couple of years, though probably not enough to offset the retirements or deaths which include Tom Furrier (Cambridge Typewriter) and Duane Jensen (Phoenix Typewriter) respectively. Lucas Dul opened up a brick-and-mortar typewriter shop in Chicago.

      Philly Typewriter and Bremerton Typewriter Company have started up typewriter repair schools/apprenticeships to expand on the trade.

      Tom Hanks has continued donating typewriters to typewriter repair shops over the past few years, ostensibly to encourage the space as well as to slim down his own collection.

      Richard Polt recently downsized his collection significantly. (His blog is generally a good source of the news of what's new in the past few years.)

      Prices are up somewhat in general, but especially for Hermes 3000s, Olympias, Smith-Corona Silent Supers, and Olivetti Letteras even in poor condition.

      Historical updates: https://typewriterdatabase.com/twdb.0.news-media

      Type Pals has started up monthly meetups again: https://www.typepals.com/events

      Lou Spirito designed a baseball scorecard for typewriters which was unveiled by Tom Hanks on March 29, 2025.

      Qwertyfest seems to be going strong: https://www.qwertyfest.com/

      Atlanta, Albuquerque, and Los Angeles have bee hosting type-ins a few times a year.

      I've fleshed out some details and examples on typecasting for those interested in trying it out: https://indieweb.org/typecast

    1. You might try slowly pressing a key. Does it reach the platen? Or do you need to strike it normally, as during typing, for it to hit the platen under its own momentum?

      The Royal 10 QX (aka Quiet Model) (1921-1923) has a special mechanism in the segment which allows the slugs to hit the platen when struck, but pressing the keys slowly doesn't allow them to reach.

      Via commentary by Brian Decker, Ted Muk, and James Grooms at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1927-royal-10.16643.typewriter

    1. reply to u/Novembree at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hfncyz/had_a_typewriter_for_awhile_could_use_help/

      Welcome to the Royal KMM club! Seems like lots of these have been posted in the last day including one by u/betternatured and another by u/the-other-gusta along with a very similar Royal KMG by u/Jacki-san.

      The serial number puts yours down as a KMM with an 11 inch platen manufactured in 1945. Cross reference: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

      These were really popular and ubiquitous, standard (large desktop) typewriters in the mid-century that were the workhorse of many offices. Because they were so common and so heavy, they only go for $5-25 in the used market in either unknown or marginal condition. If they're cleaned up and well-serviced they can go for more with a cap of around $300-400 depending on the level of restoration. Some with special features (like special typefaces) or provenance may go for more.

      The Royal KMM was known to have been used by writers including: John Ashberry, Harry Ashmore, Russell Baker, Ray Bradbury, Richard Bratigan, Richard Brooks, Pearl S. Buck, Johnny Carson, Norman Corwin, Frank Herbert, Ken Kesey, G.W. Lee, Harper Lee, Ursula K. LeGuin, David McCullough, Margaret Mead, Grangland Rice, and Dorothy Parker. This was also the model famously used by Angela Landsbury's character on the TV show Murder, She Wrote.

      Depending on your level of typewriter knowledge try out some of the following short films which will also provide some tips, tricks, and maintenance advice common in the era of your machine:

      Happy Typing!

    1. reply to u/No-Rain-4114 and tk at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ti2zu2/imperial_model_50_vs_royal_10_which_is_better/

      You're likely to get more opinions than there are people who have actually used both and their opinions are going to vary wildly based on the conditions of the machines they've encountered. They're both solid machines, but generally also so old that you'd need two well-restored versions to get a serious apples to apples comparison. Even if you get 10 people with immaculate exemplars to weigh in, it's honestly not going to be helpful for determining which you ought to hunt for and purchase.

      You're also going to find them with a very specific geographic distribution based on manufacturing and sales at the time. The Imperial bigger in the UK and Royal bigger in the US.

      If you've got two to choose from, pick the one in the best condition and proceed from there. Otherwise choose based on aesthetics as all the other factors are so confounding as to mean little in making an informed choice here.

      See also: https://boffosocko.com/2026/01/08/on-purchasing-typewriters-condition-is-king-context-is-queen/


      Reply to u/Wooden-Lifeguard-636

      Chris, which one do YOU prefer?

      Like all serious typewriter collectors, I prefer both! 😜

      Refurbished with a clean, oil, and adjust out of a typewriter repair shop, you really can't go wrong with either of these if this is the era and aesthetic you're after.

      If OP gave us a ton of additional information on their context: Are they collecting? What sort of collection are they starting? Is this the one and only typewriter they're ever going to buy? Are they going to display it as decor? Use it (8 hours a day 365, once a day for a few hours, once a week, once a month)? Tinker on it to restore it themself? What's their budget? Where are they going to source it (shop, yard sale, estate sale, online auction untested)? Do they prefer the polished enamel or the crinkle paint? Are they a hunt-and-peck typist, a touch-typist, or even a speed champion? Etc., etc., etc.

      With this, we might provide some semblance of advice, but honestly, even then, it's largely a coin toss. The ultimate choice will be biased and come down to the purchaser's gut reaction with a specific machine(s) in its condition in front of them to purchase.

      And even then, after all this, it's worth considering the quote from Carroll Shelby in Ford v Ferrari (20th Century Fox, 2019) about the test driver at the end: "You drove it for less than an hour... ‘don’t know shit after an hour."

    1. Repyy to u/bluestemgrass at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1thup7q/reink_ribbon/ RE: Ribbon for a toy Sears Holiday typewriter.

      Before you go too deeply here, is the ribbon made of cloth material (nylon, silk, or cotton) or is it a plastic film/carbon type?

      If it's the latter, is it a proprietary cartridge or typewriter spools? What width is the ribbon? Cartridges with carbon can be difficult if not impossible to find for these models.

      It looks like it may be a Sears rebranded version of some of the Byron Jardine/PETITE toy typewriters. https://typewriterdatabase.com/no_info.525.typewriter-serial-number-database There may be an imprint of the manufacturer on the bottom which would help to identify the original manufacturer.

      Most Petite typewriters use T4430 or T4431 ribbon (1/4" wide or 6.50mm) which can sometimes be found on eBay and other sites. It generally requires original spools. These were generally carbon/plastic based ribbon.

      If you have the original spools, you might find someone who still manufactures carbon-based ribbon and you can cannibalize it to spool onto your Sears Holiday. Look around for some of the 80s/90s film-based cartridges meant for word processors.

      If it did originally have cloth ribbon you might be able to re-ink it, but the process typically tends to be very messy. Generally some glycerine and ink meant for metal stamps (not rubber) will get you where you'd like to go. Some have also soaked their old ribbon in WD-40 as a means of rejuvenation, but this is also time consuming and messy.

      More detail/photos of the manufacturing details on the bottom and photos and measurements of the spools and the original type of "ribbon" will help immensely.

      If you get the chance, add your example to the typewriter database and include photos of the spools as well as measurements of their width and diameter to help others with these questions/problems in the future.

    1. Congratulations and welcome to the club! Definitely the machine of a serious writer or novelist. These were the workhorses of newspapers and magazines through the 70s and 80s. In my mind, it's the last truly great manual typewriter ever manufactured.

      Well known users of the Olympia SG3 included: Ingeborg Bachmann, Jimmy Breslin, Paddy Chayefsky, Philip K. Dick, Harlan Ellison, Michael Ende, Howard Fast, Jim Lehrer, Elmore Leonard, William E. Leuchtenburg, Terrence McNally, James Michener, Dudley Randall, and Wallace Stegner

      Robert Redford used one in the movie ALL THE PRESIDENT'S MEN.

      img

      If you need a manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      Ribbon is still easily found: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      The Olympia SG3 uses 1/2" wide (12.7mm) typewriter ribbon, which has been standardized as DIN2103, in combination with the Group 1 spool, designated as DIN 32755. (Doesn't need eyelets.)

      Other useful resources available at: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      reply to u/Prudent_Highway_1855 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1tdy2eu/my_first_typewriter/

    1. You could sew two different ribbons together and set a grommet in the seam. That's basically how the original 4-color ribbon is. Even with the original ribbon you had to wind the ribbon to the middle and undo the ribbon from the vibrator and swap the side the middle grommet is on to change the color.

      Via Ted Munk at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1969-sears-medalist-power-12.24661.typewriter

    1. reply to u/Personman444 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1tcuxxu/how_to_restore_case/

      RE: 1950s Royal typewriter case

      Typically these were fabric glued onto fiberglass, so you can do fairly well with soap and water with a scrub brush and then letting it air dry. This should help to remove the staining. You can use more aggressive cleaners as long as they don't dissolve the glue. I've used a Green Bissel wet vac on these with some reasonable success in the past.

      0000 steel wool will often help clean off/clean up the metal parts, though you should test an inconspicuous part first. Following up with metal polish can give you some shine.

      The handle is plastic and a gentle clean followed by a coat of car wax will do wonders.

    1. James, thanks for the research and advertisements. Having just picked up one of these in lovely condition, I would generally agree with your assessment on the delineation of the two models: a "Report Electric" and a "Report de Luxe (SKE)".

      Currently the TWdB has three different pages for what one might call the Olympia Report de Luxe (SKE) and which could be concatenated into a single model on one page:

      1. "Olympia Report" https://typewriterdatabase.com/Olympia.Report.61.bmys with two exemplars from '75 and '78 which are explicitly badged as "Olympia Report de Luxe" on the hood

      2. "Olympia Report deLuxe" https://typewriterdatabase.com/Olympia.Report+deLuxe.61.bmys which are all the badged the same, but somehow seem to have left the space between the "de" and "Luxe" out.

      3. "Olympia SKE Report de Luxe" https://typewriterdatabase.com/Olympia.SKE+Report+de+Luxe.61.bmys which are all badged as "Report de Luxe" on the hood, but which include the SKE in the name because of the sticker on the side.

      Personally, for ease of internet search most are likely to search for "Olympia Report de Luxe" though some may see the sticker near the power cord that reads "Typewriter Model SKE" (either on their physical machine or photos on eBay, Goodwill, etc.), so listing it in the database as "Olympia Report de Luxe (SKE)" may make the search most fruitful.

      If the renaming of these three pages, which seem to be for a single model, does occur it would be useful to do a 403 redirect from the original pages to the final page so that the search engine optimization for these pages isn't lost. Adding a note to the model on the main Olympia page will help to clear up the details for future typewriter hunters as well.

      Reply to https://typewriterdatabase.com/1973-olympia-report-electric.27118.typewriter

    1. If we're going to do history, let's get it right. The Royal HH and REs offered color in the '52-54 range, but they were the exception rather than the rule. These are very difficult to find now. The Quiet De Luxes didn't get color until into 1956 and continued until 1958 when they were replaced by the (also) colorful Royal Futuras.

      There were pockets of the late 20s and early 30s when Royal and Underwood among others experimented with color on portables as well, but these tended to be more basic reds, blues, and greens. The Corona 4s models were finished in DuPont DUCO® from 1927 to 1939. In a similar time period the Royal P also came in a small variety of colors.

      img

    1. The result is quite shiny. There is no visible yellow grain. The slightly silvery spots that I damaged are almost not visible anymore, thanks to the added yellow color of the shellac. There are a couple dust spots visible, if you look: perfection is not of this world. But the good thing about shellac is that you could sand the top again a little, and apply more shellac - or just do that without sanding. The alcohol dissolves the shellac, so you can always add new coats.

      Erik Bruchez describes how he used shellac and denatured alcohol to re-shellac his Yost 20 followed up with 600 grit sandpaper to smooth things back out as necessary.

    2. the front panel’s paint and decal were very matte, and had signs of yellowing outside the decal. Everyone who has dealt with a Royal 5 (in particular) might know a case of this illness: the paint appears dirty and uneven with some yellow, grainy stuff around the decals. You cannot clean over decals too much: the golden color will go away to reveal silver, and eventually you will destroy the decals completely.But I had heard that that yellow stuff, on some machines at least, was shellac: that the decals were originally applied and then shellacked. For some reason, on the Royal 5 in particular, the shellac had a tendency over time to dry and become apparent and grainy.
    1. Sewing machines and typewriters from this era use shellac, which is a natural ish material. If improperly cared for in the past that’s what happens. One thing to check how the shellac is, is to shine a bright light on the black area. If it has a green tint, then shellac is there, if it’s black it is not. But that yellowing is the shellac. Normally I would gently clean with water and a soft rag. Then a light car polish and then a good wax to seal it.

      via Tyler Alan Macek at https://www.facebook.com/groups/705152958470148/posts/1255908216727950/

      A black light is potentially better, but a bright light should work too.

    2. Use kerosene or mineral spirits to clean the machine. I wouod go with kerosene to be honest. Then redo the shellac finish with french polishing. This is heavy documented with old sewing machines as they use these gold decals that f becomes silvered when water or cleaning solvents touch them.

      via Luke Fuji at https://www.facebook.com/groups/705152958470148/posts/1255908216727950/

    1. Courtesy of @Pelicram ❤ : Peli's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight. This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level. The recipe: 70% Light machine oil. 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits. Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying. Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application. Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.,Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.,Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.,Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.

      https://discord.com/channels/639936208734126107/639938269030907914/1302694827682697330

      Pelicram's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight.

      This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level.

      The recipe: - 70% Light machine oil. - 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits.

      Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying.

      Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application.

      • Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.
      • Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.
      • Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.
      • Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.
    1. You’re correct it’s a typewriter table. The 28 inch height is called clerical height, which is 2 inches lower than desk height, which is 30 inches. The drawer is to hold typing paper, carbon paper and second sheets because copy machines have not been invented you always need a copy of whatever you typed for your own personal records. those tables were usually made out of red oak, which was adorable and not expensive. Pittsburgh Office Equipment, as I remember, was located on Carson St. in Pittsburgh.

      comment via Joe Eisaman at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163611818554678/

      in relation to a table of dimensions 32 x17 x28".

    1. It turns out our friend Tom has been scoring games with a typewriter since at least 2013!

      Keeping score at a baseball game with a typewriter is not only possible but is also a much more detailed record of the match. (ORTEGA. Full count! Fouled back three in a row ... OH, THAT BALL’S LANDIN’ WHERE THE FANS ARE STANDIN’!!! Walk. Off. Home. Run. Thanks for your attendance and drive safely.) —Tom Hanks in "I Am TOM. I Like to TYPE. Hear That?" on Aug. 3, 2013 in the New York Times https://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/04/opinion/sunday/i-am-tom-i-like-to-type-hear-that.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

      cc: u/lou_spirito<br /> u/Informal-Writer-1140<br /> u/oogieball<br /> u/joe_skidiachi_irl

      Other examples of his scoring efforts: - https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jn2475/yes_tom_hanks_does_schlep_a_typewriter_to_ball/ - https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jm0l8k/tom_hanks_keeps_score/ - https://www.reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1jm4pie/tom_hanks_scorecard/

      Posted at https://reddit.com/r/BaseballScorecards/comments/1tb7fbw/tom_hanks_scoring_baseball_games_via_typewriter/

    1. You can choose the typewriter to match your sound signature.Remingtons from the 1930s go THICK THICK. Midcentury Royals sound like a voice repeating the word CHALK. CHALK. CHALK CHALK. Even the typewriters made for the dawning jet age (small enough to fit on the fold-down trays of the first 707s), like the Smith Corona Skyriter and the design masterpieces by Olivetti, go FITT FITT FITT like bullets from James Bond’s silenced Walther PPK. Composing on a Groma, exported to the West from a Communist country that no longer exists, is the sound of work, hard work. Close your eyes as you touch-type and you are a blacksmith shaping sentences hot out of the forge of your mind.
    1. reply to u/LillieLogang at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1tacody/light_touch_jcpenney/

      Before you go too deeply here, is the ribbon made of cloth material (nylon, silk, or cotton) or is it a plastic film/carbon type? And if the latter, is it a proprietary cartridge or typewriter spools? Cartridges with carbon can be difficult if not impossible to find.

      There's only one Penny's toy typewriter in the database currently which may give you some idea: https://typewriterdatabase.com/1970-jc-penney-j6772-toy-typewriter.11484.typewriter I don't see these pop up often, but there is a related one listed on SGW right now: https://shopgoodwill.com/item/263548866 which may have some unused "ribbon" you might cannibalize if necessary.

      It looks like it may have been a rebranded version of some of the PETITE toy typewriters. https://typewriterdatabase.com/no_info.525.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Many of these toys are difficult to adjust or fix (if at all), but they tend to be very simple in terms of the mechanics, so you might be able to puzzle out what isn't working and why by looking at it with the hood removed.

    1. Oral history questions for Richard Polt on typewriter collecting:

      Over the years Joe Van Cleave has done a handful of videos on selectivity and downsizing of one's typewriter collection including: <br /> - The Minimal Complete Typewriter Collection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ej6kd1FsnE <br /> - Culling the Herd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_ueHE3Whjk <br /> - Downsizing Your Typewriter Collection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eic4lNE0l3Y

      And Sarah Everett has one "what's your deserted island typewriter?" (if I had to pick 5 typewriters....) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFqJa9kD-v0

      All this to ask Richard: what your downsizing experience has been? What were the criteria by which you chose what to keep? Did you more closely focus your collection into an area, era, style, other? Are you primarily keeping the things you tend to use more frequently? Things in better condition? You started out with how many to end up with how many? If you could start your collecting over from scratch what would you change? Are there things you wouldn't get the second time around? Things you would have spent more time focusing on? What will you continue to collect and at what rate? Naturally, collecting is a very personal thing with respect to individual's specific tastes and experiences (and frequently space!), but I suspect answers to some of these may help others, especially those who are just starting into collecting, or who have a dozen or two machines but who might find value on where and how to potentially focus their efforts. It may also help other collectors and their families who are dealing with appropriately disposing of significant collections, especially in cases where a deceased collector was very passionate and the family just wants to be rid of them quickly (i.e. ideas like Swedish death cleaning and related).

      I'm sure reflections on these would be an interesting typecast, but if it's easier to do something like an oral history interview, I'm happy to collect these and a few dozen more questions into an interview format if you've got 30-60 minutes in the coming months to devote to a remote audio/video interviews/mini-podcast or YouTube episode or something similar?

    1. reply to https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10161712887224678/

      to Steve Clancy Zach Hubbird Jean Brunet

      I'm curious what the sourcing is on your differentiation of the two models? Are there manuals, advertising, or other details to back up the differences? From what I can see, the phrase "Rhythm Touch" seems to have been an advertising tag for the Underwood SS which started a few months after production of the SS began and there wasn't any difference in them other than the advertising tag.

      Robert Messenger has some scant history on the machine and the differences, primarily due to a redesign at the time, at https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_25.html. The primary change from the S to the SS seems to have been a move from a carriage shift to a basket shift and so it seems somewhat fitting that Underwood uses the phrase "Rhythm Touch" as an advertising gimmick much like Smith-Corona were doing with their "Floating Shift" marketing.

      Generally standards at the time were not differentiated by different trim lines as standards had all the bells and whistles for office use (potentially aside from custom use cases like decimal tabulators or extra wide carriage). Meanwhile all the trim variations were generally seen in the portable market geared toward home use rather than office. This would seem to support the idea that there's only the SS and "Rhythm Touch" is only an advertising tag line as the SS was newly introduced in January of '46 and "Rhythm Touch" appears around July '46.

      There's also some discussion on the TWdB in the commentary at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1950-underwood-ss.23202.typewriter which may add to the question.

      I'm curious to hear everyone's thoughts on the idea/thesis that the only model is the Underwood SS which is being marketed as the "Rhythm Touch" or evidence to the contrary to refute the claim.

    1. Differentiating between an Underwood SS and the Underwood Rhythm Touch:

      comment to James Grooms at https://typewriterdatabase.com/show.23202.typewriter

      James, perhaps it's hiding somewhere else in the comments on the database, but I'm curious if you've come across definitive differences between the Underwood SS and the Underwood Rhythm Touch models which have separate pages within the database:<br /> - SS https://typewriterdatabase.com/Underwood.SS.4.bmys - Rhythm Touch https://typewriterdatabase.com/Underwood.Rhythm+Touch.4.bmys

      Most of my Google searches don't return anything definitive or with actual sourcing of any sort.

      The main page has the SS starting in May 1946 and the Rhythm Touch beginning in July of that year, but doesn't seem to specify between the two in any substantive way. Neither of the two models seems to have had a name printed on it.

      Your description here uses both designators, but knowing your penchant for newspaper and magazine advertisements, I would suspect you may have seen specific differentiators.

      This Facebook post has some handwaving differentiators: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10161712887224678/ but none seem definitive or sourced. It also uses the phrase carriage shift, though presumably with these models Underwood had moved to a segment/basket shift on their standards.

      Other than the chrome side detailing moving from 3 strips to 5 as you've noted, one of the few differentiators I can see in this era is the shift from the shorter carriage return lever to the longer armed version around 1948 which Robert Messenger notes in https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_25.html. However that same page also has an advertisement on it with the words Rhythm Touch featuring a short armed (older style) carriage return.

      Is there really a difference between the SS and the Rhythm Touch or are they the same model with the phrase "Rhythm Touch" used as a marketing tag to compete potentially with Smith-Corona's "Floating Shift"?

      Thanks!

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. Welcome to the typewriter club, and congratulations on your Royal HH.

      Preceded by the Royal KMM and the Royal KMG, the Royal HH was manufactured from 1952 to 1957 when it was replaced by the Royal FP, though it continued to sell well, even on the used market with newspaper advertising until the early 1980s.

      Here's a copy of the original manual from 1952: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/royalhh.pdf

      The Royal HH was offered in Charcoal Grey smooth, Nile Green smooth, Horizon Blue smooth, Coral Rose, Gray Frieze, Royaltone Dark Gray wrinkle, Royaltone Light Gray wrinkle but far and away, the standard brown with green plastic keys was the most ubiquitous.

      Well known users of the Royal HH typewriter included: William F. Buckley, Jr., Charles Bukowski, George Burns, Herb Caen, Truman Capote, Bruce Catton, Patty Chayefsky, Don DeLillo, Alice Denham, James T. Farrell, Paul Fussell, Hugh Hefner, Elia Kazan, Sterling North, Robert B. Parker, Sylvia Plath, Mario Puzo, Robert Penn Warren, Eudora Welty, and William Zinsser. You can find photos of most of these writers with their machines at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html.

      The Royal HH has appeared in movies including:

      These typewriters were especially appreciated by journalists:

      Newsroom at The Masters featuring dozens of Royal HH typewriters.

      img

      Spools and Ribbon:<br /> The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse.

      If you're missing the original spools, Ribbons Unlimited carries them: https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/6N064-Royal-Standard-Electric-Ribbon-64-p/6n064.htm or you might source an original metal pair from a local repair shop.

      Duane of Phoenix Typewriter has a video about how to change and spool up your Royal standard.

      Collector Sarah Everett can show you most of the functions on her YouTube Channel for Just My Typewriter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0Zvc1m-8aI.

      Some additional history can be found here: https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2012/11/on-this-day-in-typewriter-history_9.html.

      For additional resources on typewriters, collecting, repairing, and using them see: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/.

      Happy typing!

      Reply to u/MertwithYert at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1swf5pn/ive_got_two_type_writers_id_greatly_appreciate/

    1. Verlon H. Pridgen Obituary It is with profound sadness and heartbreak that our family announces the passing of Verlon “Bill” Huey Pridgen on October 28th, 2024, at the age of 87 while surrounded by loved ones. Bill was born on February 1, 1937, to Morgan and Annie Pridgen in Samson, Alabama. He moved to Florida when he was young, where he lived out the rest of his life. While in high school in South Florida, Bill met the love of his life, Barbara Pridgen. Bill and Barbara married in 1957 and completed their family with their two children, Marc and Lesli. From 1959 to 1961, Bill proudly served in the United States Army. He was stationed at Fort Lewis in Washington and spent time serving in Germany. After retiring from the Army, Bill continued his lifelong career of working on typewriters. He eventually became the owner of McDavid Typewriter Service from 1970 to 2024. His love for all typewriters and his passion for repairing and restoring the machines earned him the endearing title of “Typewriter Genius”. As a devoted follower of Christ, Bill raised his family wrapped up in the love of God. He was an amazing role model and continually showed the love of God to those he encountered through his actions and words. He gave glory to God in all things. Bill was exceptionally committed to his church family at Trinity Baptist Church where he served in the choir and Cubbies. He also volunteered as a coach for their youth sports program. Exemplifying God always, Bill made the world a brighter place for 87 years. Bill is survived by a son, Marc (Donna) Pridgen; a daughter, Lesli (Greg) Wheeler; grandchildren, Ashley (John Robert) Pridgen-Blake, Gregory Wheeler Jr., Samantha (Curtis) Burkhardt, Alison (Garrett) Pridgen, Cindy Pridgen, Hannah Wheeler, Luke Wheeler, and Simon Wheeler; great-grandchildren, Skarlette Blake, Jackson Blake, and Lena Wheeler; and brothers, Donald (Sheila) Pridgen and Jerry (Marion) Pridgen. Bill was a cherished husband, father, grandfather, great-grandfather, and friend. He was preceded in death by his wife of 67 years, Barbara Pridgen; father, Morgan Pridgen; his mother, Annie Pridgen; and brothers, Gary Pridgen, and Robert Pridgen.Visitation will be held at 10am on Saturday, November 2nd, 2024, followed by the funeral service at 11am at Trinity Baptist Church at 3716 State Rd 21, Keystone Heights, FL, 32656. Interment will follow at Eliam Cemetery at 821 State Rd 21, Melrose, FL, 32666.In lieu of flowers, we ask that you donate to Haven Hospice to help their mission of honoring life by providing comfort, care, and compassion to individuals and families they serve. You can donate online at https://beyourhaven.org/donate or by mail to 4200 NW 90th Blvd, Gainesville, FL 32606. Cemetery Eliam Cemetery 821 State Road 21 Melrose FL 32666

      https://www.forestmeadowsfh.com/obituaries/Verlon-H-Pridgen?obId=42124630

    1. Both have the same serial again. Resellers like this are not doing any favours for the community. Brooksaw: https://www.ebay.com/itm/318227695061 Kyle’sLost&Found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/157839087546

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1t0569c/brooksaw_at_it_again_another_service_worth_2800/

      The typewriter community not appreciating Brooksaw Antiques buying a typewriter for $200 and then, upon receipt, posting it for $2,800 as "near mint" without any servicing beyond cleaning the slugs.

    1. The collector in me says you ought to get a Royal 10 as your 10th machine. But what do I know? I bought a Remington 17 as my 17th and I'm looking forward to the days I'll buy the milestone Remington Ten Forty or the eventual Hermes 3000! 😁

      If it helps, at Virtual Hermans 2022, Richard Polt recommended someone justify their continued typewriter collecting to their skeptical wife as an "investment" because typewriters are holding their value well.

      I personally don't have a typewriter collecting problem, I have a typewriter ribbon collecting problem that's compounded by need to both store and use them in their original historical context.

  2. Apr 2026
    1. So, I fear the answer is that there is nothing practical to be done, but if anyone has any ideas of how to lighten the dark keytops, I'm all ears. My only thought is the risky move of printing new papers, but I just know I'd get the size and font wrong.But after years of neglect, I think she deserves to feel beautiful again. She's royalty, after all.

      reply to Zachary Thede at https://www.facebook.com/groups/721704878218903/posts/3075801049475929

      It's definitely doable! The only way to do this is to remove the keyrings (preferably with a keyring pliers, otherwise it's incredibly tedious) and to physically replace the key legends with new ones. Richard Polt has some of the process described here as well as as high resolution scans that you can use to print out keys. https://writingball.blogspot.com/2016/10/legendary.html

      Ames Supply Company used to sell keycards for doing this. Some of them had colors including green, so keep this in mind if you try something like creating rainbows across your keyboard or other visual fun. https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.misc-supplies.manual

      Our friend Lucas Dul of Chicago Typewriter has a great YouTube video of the tool and some of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYHrBjfQxpM

      As a fun example, Heiko Stolten recently did this on a Remington using custom made legends that use the font from the Netflix series Wednesday: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163537426144678/ If you ask nicely, they've got the original files if you need them for printing out .

      Good luck!

    1. Refreshing dry ribbons:Take a little bottle, fill it with refreshing solution.The violet little thing is a piece of sponge covered by a tissue of textile.So the refreshing solution flows gently through the mouthing of the bottle onto the ribbon.Refreshing solution:- 3 parts pure rubbing alcohol - 1 part castor oil- when needed add oil based stamp ink to darken the ribbon

      via Nils Behr at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163547121184678/

      Small bottle used as applicator with a sponge inserted on the top covered by a small square of cloth which is rubberbanded on. This is then applied slowly to the typewriter ribbon on a winder.

    1. Current offerings/pricing (subject to change): 660 yards (full reel) of nylon ribbon in black or black/red for $65 330 yards (half reel) of nylon ribbon in black or black/red for $45 550 yards of silk ribbon in black or black/red for $220 295 yards of cotton in black or black/red for $75

      Silk vs Nylon vs Cotton typewriter ribbon:<br /> Nylon is 0.10 per yard<br /> Silk is 0.40 per yard Cotton is 0.25 per yard

    1. I got one of these quiet models after using a pancake for years. Absolutely life changing. I know they make smaller tank models, but you'd be surprised how fast the air goes on a blowout attachment. (Amazon has some cheaper 1 gal ones that appear to have great reviews) The old pancake I used before this was small, and ran NON STOP at like 100+ db. Shoo

      via Nashville Typewriter at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1srashb/handheld_alternative_to_canned_air/?sort=old

    1. I've been doing this for many years and there are only a tiny few of us, beyond professional document examiners, who might care enough to delve into these questions.

      A few things to consider:

      You're more likely to find solid advice from typeface historians than you are SCM historians. You're also likely to find better advice on this topic in the more specialized fora like https://typewriter.boardhost.com/ or the typewriter discord https://discord.gg/UzaREHJnX

      You're better off using the exemplars from the catalogs (several .pdfs in the TWdb when you're logged in, or on munk.org in scanned photo format). The photos and identifications in the individual galleries of the database are USER IDENTIFIED and aren't always the most consistent as a result. Knowing some of the bigger, more knowledgeable collectors on the database and who knows what best or who has studied areas the most is incredibly helpful here. (Several of your examples are via James Grooms, who is a significant collector and generally does solid identifications, provides photos of slugs and foundry marks, but still often asks for confirmations of typeface identifications in the various fora.)

      The foundry marks on the numerals for most machines are very often are different from those of the alphabet so you may find that particular machines used something like Pica No. 1 for the letters but something different, but potentially close for the numbers.

      The slugs and designs for the number one are often the least reliable over time as it was often left off of machines entirely until the 60s or 70s. Even when a foundry specifically designed this numeral, many manufacturers left it off their machines though they often put an exemplar for it into their catalogs. Thus when you compare, you may be comparing the lowercase letter "L" in exemplars for individual machines. In particular, I've seen examples recently for Royal who had the number 1 in their catalogs, but almost never had a key on the machine for it and either relied on the user using the "L" or in cases of double gothic faces the letter "I", and as a result, you'll never find an exact "match" between the two.

      An exact determination is highly unlikely to change the value of your particular machine in the slightest.

      It would be nice if the Typewriter Database encouraged people to upload photos of their slugs and foundry marks specifically and had data fields for identifying the typefaces as well as fields for which sources they used to provide those identifications.

      The level of resources and knowledge in this area means that it's incumbent on you to do your own research and come to your own conclusions based on what is broadly available in terms of original catalogs and exemplars in the wild. This being said, the only way the state of the art changes is for people who do this sort of research to publish it with their lines of reasoning on their own websites, here on Reddit, or other typewriter related fora.


      Reply to u/frankinreddit at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1sskes0/smithcorona_id_help_are_these_actually_pica_no_1/

    1. In the hopes of helping those seeking to remove the body/shell/jacket* of a Corona Zephyr (1938, in this case), I've created a step-by-step process based on my recent experience. (\The user manual from the 1930s refers to the machine's body as a "jacket.")* The steps are: Remove the two screws underneath the keys at the front of the machine (holding the typewriter to the base of the body. 2, 3, 4. ON EACH SIDE, remove the screws at positions #2 & #3 and the lug nut at position #4. Don't remove the screw at position #4 as it's not necessary & will be difficult to set back in place. Remove the back lower panel of the body to reveal the screws at position #5. Remove the screws at position #5 from EACH SIDE of the machine. Using a thin piece of cardboard (I used the cardstock from a cereal box) or a stack of a few pieces of paper, depress the top row of keys so that they'll slide under the body as you slide it forward. Slide the body forward, slightly lifting the back end to help guide it out. Work slowly & gently, keeping an eye on the keys to ensure that they are not getting caught on the body & that nothing is getting crushed, scraped, or scratched as you work. Continue gently & carefully sliding the machine out of its body. A view of the body without the typewriter within. Note that it is a single piece and the top & bottom do NOT separate. Good luck! ALSO: this guest post from Garrett Lai on Richard Polt's Typewriter Revolution site has a good approach for aiding in the sliding of the typewriting in & out of the body by making some plastic skids to avoid scraping/scratching during movement: https://writingball.blogspot.com/2020/06/guest-post-disassembling-smith-corona.html If you want to get any Corona Zephyr servicing details from the source, be sure to see Theodore Munk's post which includes his insights along with a copy of the original "1938 Corona Zephyr Typewriter Service Adjustment Methods" manual: https://typecast.munk.org/2023/02/11/1938-corona-zephyr-typewriter-service-adjustment-methods/

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1srswu6/removing_the_body_shell_of_a_corona_zephyr_1938/

      Details for removing the jacket of a Corona Zephyr.

    1. i got a hermes 3000

      Sarah treated the internal felt of her typewriter by spraying it down with white distilled vinegar. This kills any living molds, etc. Vodka is also good for removing scents on typewriters (and vintage bags).

      The variable line spacer is inside the platen of a Hermes 3000.

      The carriage of the H3K comes off with the removal of two bolts.

      For rust removal Sarah starts with a wire brush then does PB Blaster for more.

      Replace rusted springs.

      Fingernail polish for a H3K:<br /> - Sally Hansen Insta-Dry line "Time is Money" (discontinued?) - Expressie Essie quick dry "In the Modem" (closest in her opinion) - Sinful Colors Eucalypta - Blank Beauty (color match to Hermes Ambassador) - Orly (meh, too green)

      The case doesn't remove intuitively.

    1. Platen repair experiment… This platen on a Royal Arrow was badly cracked with large chunks missing. So, having nothing to lose, I took some black Flexseal paste and filled it in like spackle. Of course, I applied way too much and ended up sanding most of it off before applying 240 grit sand paper to the entire platen via my drill. It’s smooth to the touch, not perfect, but passed the typing test with all letters clear and neat.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/1794856020751839/posts/4419835824920499/

    1. The advice in your last picture is spot on. I have had success with #0000 steel wool and metal polish in particular.

      Advice for polishing and cleaning up nickel plating

      via Erik Bruchez https://www.facebook.com/groups/705152958470148/posts/1230905545894884/

      Others recommend penetrating oil or WD-40 in combination with 0000 steel wool which should be enough to remove corrosion, but not damage the nickel plating.

      I've also seen Marty Morren suggest 0000 inside Dremel tools for dealing with nickel plated key rings.

    1. Caring for the Holiday Case. This was a straightforward cleaning. The case was pretty bad. I scrubbed with soap and water, let dry for a few days, then cleaned metal with steel wool (0000 grade). Inside the movements were lightly lubricated with Marvel mystery oil, including the carrying handle and hinges. The case was polished with Meguiars cleaning wax (maroon tin). Final buff with mircrofiber.

      via Katie Typewriter-Alliance on https://www.facebook.com/groups/1713118022537412/posts/2399628867219654/

    1. reply to u/Greydusk1324 about the difference in Royal Standard typewriters at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1skmfum/comparing_royal_standard_desk_machines/

      I'm (sorry?) to report that the internals of the Royal standard typewriters including the Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc. are all incredibly similar if not exactly the same over several decades. The biggest change is probably the introduction of Magic Margins with the KMM. The margin release button also moved down to the keyboard around this time as well.

      Most of the rest are smaller, subtle differences in how the ribbon reverse mechanism is done or things like keytops changing from glass and acetate to plastic, the threading design of the ribbon vibrator, as well as the external design and some of the other small fit and finish. Some of the much later models allow one to remove the entire chassis from the body of the typewriter to make cleaning and servicing easier.

      There are certainly differences in type-feel and "weight" in the changes in the keytops, but broadly they're all mostly the same machine. The biggest differences between them all (for me) tend to be how well they've been maintained and/or been cleaned and adjusted. One seriously well adjusted Royal is better than any 20 other random Royal standards you might pick up for a fraction of the price. Of course, if you're doing your own wrenching work, then once you've learned one machine well, the rest are a breeze to work on and bring up to snuff.

      If you think there's a huge difference between your KMM and KMG (which are probably the two closest models), then perhaps it's worth it to try some others? The biggest difference may be the FP which has chunkier key caps that have more effect on the "feel". The HH and many of the other later models have thinner key tops. The Ten is probably the most different from the rest. The H, KH, KHM are what I would call "experimental" models moving toward the perfection in the KMM and KMG.

      Context: I'm an owner of a KHM, 2 KMMs (including a 47+ pound, 18" wide carriage), 2 KMGs, 2 HHs, half a dozen FPs (in all the colors but Willow Green), and a 440. This includes a variety of their standard pica and elites, a Clarion Gothic, and a Pica Double Gothic. Stylistically I love the KMG and the FP, but my KHM has one of the most satisfying "actions" of any of the machines I own.

      Of course, all this depends on what sort of collection you're aiming for. I love a good Royal and have a smattering of other makes and models, but I am slowly working toward a completist picture of Royal Standards. I do try to add machines that have a unique typeface or other feature as I add more of them to get some additional depth and breadth to my collection.

      If you're a collector with limited space, then pick up the best looking design(s) (for your personal aesthetic) and rest easy that you're not missing too much. You can also pick up new machines to curate for a few years and then move them along to other collectors to enjoy so that your collection is always changing.

      You might get some more detail and nuance by watching Joe Van Cleave's YouTube channel where he's done a few dozen videos on Royal standards as well as comparison videos over the past several years.

      Good luck on your hunt!

    1. Professor and poet Kenneth Goldsmith has spent the past 24 years transcribing manuscripts onto ultra-thin onion-skin paper, amassing a total of 750 to date, as part of his ‘Retyping a Library’ project.Find out why he finds digital so passé, via link in bio. DOP: @kalumkoCamera assistant: Rory WagnerInterview: @donnasalekEditor: Daniel FinnSenior creative producer: @valmessersiDigital director: @ellycparsons

      https://www.instagram.com/reel/DWAosAxjIRI/ via The World of Interiors

      Why in God's name would he choose the worst typewriter on the planet to effect this project?

  3. Mar 2026