1,724 Matching Annotations
  1. Aug 2024
    1. Alternate systems for helping to thin out typewriter collections:

      Designer William Morris' weighing system:

      “Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.”

      I once had a collector friend who loved standard typewriters, so his weighing system was as follows:<br /> - If it weighs over 25 pounds, keep it<br /> - If it weighs less than 25 pounds, sell it off

      And naturally, minimalist Marie Kondo's system:<br /> - Does it spark joy?

      Joe Van Cleave also had another video for creating a minimal collection based on categories of typewriter which may also be useful for some: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ej6kd1FsnE

    1. In this experimentagain the pupils who could type werefound to have made more gains in lan-guage usage and spelling than the nontyp-ers.

      M. W. Tate's 1934 typewriter studies showed student gains in language usage and spelling. Now that computers have automatic spell-checkers and students less frequently use dictionaries or study spelling in particular, does spelling ability in modern classrooms keep pace with numbers from earlier in the century when more emphasis was put on that portion of writing pedagogy?

    2. One large study by Ben D. Woodand Frank N. Freeman in 1932 paved theway for acceptance in elementary schools.The study included 14,947 children ofelementary-school age in an experimenton the effect of the typewriter on class-room performance (3). The children whohad typing instruction actually spent onlyan hour or two a week at the typewriter,yet at the end of the first year they out-performed the nontyping pupils in read-ing.
    1. Glenn Horowitz, a rare-book dealer who handled the auction for Mr. McCarthy, told The New York Times earlier this week: “When I grasped that some of the most complex, almost otherworldly fiction of the postwar era was composed on such a simple, functional, frail-looking machine, it conferred a sort of talismanic quality to Cormac’s typewriter. It’s as if Mount Rushmore was carved with a Swiss Army knife.”
    1. The majority of typewriter typefaces came in one of a few sizes either pica (10 characters per inch) or elite (11 or 12 CPI). Usually you can tell by the number of characters on rule at the back of the paper table. A scale that goes up to 85 is usually indicative of Pica machine (85*10 CPI = 8.5", which is the standard paper width in the US) and a scale that goes into the the 90s up to 102 indicates elite. There were definitely other sizes for custom typing, but they're rarer. You might see things like 6 CPI which was used for children or people with vision problems and machines that go up to 18 CPI. I've heard rumors of 20 CPI, but never seen one.

    1. Smith-Corona Series 5 and 6 typewriters had a small piece of rubber around a portion of the escapement which can wear out or become damaged. This in turn causes the escapement to not work properly and cause the dogs to get jammed resulting in large movements of the carriage while typing or spacing.

      Joe Van Cleave calls it the "return silencer" and replaced his by tracing out the damaged piece on a sheet of 1/32" rubber and cutting it out as a replacement.

      Duane at Phoenix typewriter describes replacing it with rubber tubing (possibly something like heat shrink?) instead. See: https://hypothes.is/a/tG4BWk77Ee-jczsjoM8SzA

  2. Jul 2024
    1. My fiance got a white Adler Tippa recently, but is unsure of the exact model or year. We looked up the serial number but nothing has come up even on the database. The Tippa plate just says Tippa, not Adler Tippa, so it can't be too old. Any ideas? Serial number: 10148440

      reply to u/DinoPup87 at https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1efzeor/adler_tippa_id/

      It's a common misconception that the database lists all serial numbers.

      You'll need to identify the make (and preferably the model) to search the database. Then you'll want to look at the serial numbers which your serial number appears between to be able to identify the year (or month if the data is granular enough) your machine was made. Reading the notes at the header of each page will give you details for how best to read and interpret the charts for each manufacturer. Notes and footnotes will provide you with additional details when available.

      You can then compare your machine against others which individuals have photographed and uploaded to the database. Feel free to add your typewriter as an example by making an account of your own. Doing this is sure to help researches and other enthusiasts in the future. Don't forget photos of your manual, tools which came with your machine, your case, and original dated purchase receipts if you have them.

    1. needs a new ink ribbon

      Chances are that you've got your original metal spools, and if so, definitely keep them. You can make a quick measurement, but I'm guessing you're going to want 1/2" or 13mm wide universal ribbon.

      You can buy this in many places and in various color combinations (if you have a bichrome machine—look for a black/white/red switch which can usually be found on the front of your machine) for just a few dollars for 16 yards or about 14 meters to fill up a 2 inch diameter spool. Often it will come on cheap universal plastic spools which you can use to wind onto your own original metal spools if necessary.

      Some machines often make use of proprietary mechanisms or geometry on their spools to effectuate the auto-reverse mechanism of the machine (though you'd have to check on your particular unit). Many machines after the 40s used small grommets on the ribbon itself to trigger the auto-reverse mechanism. If yours doesn't, you can trim these off with scissors as you spool the ribbon onto your machine if you're worried they'll get in the way.

      Some smaller ultra-portables can and often do use smaller diameter spools which only fit 12 yards of ribbon, but you can always cut your ribbon down from bigger spools if necessary.

      A few good sources of ribbon can be found at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1.

      If you don't have the original spools and the cheap plastic universal ones don't work on yours, you can find replacements via https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/ or by calling around to repair shops which may have extras https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html


      Incidentally, having your typewriter make and model as well as serial number can be helpful. You can often identify the model via https://typewriterdatabase.com/ if it's not on your typewriter directly. I'm guessing from the 2Y5852 that you've got a Good Companion No. 2 circa 1942, but you can track that down by looking at the database and individual galleries with photos.

      If you don't have one already, you might find a manual for your machine (or one very similar to it) at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      reply to u/Fancy_Temporary_5902 at https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1eg176q/im_trying_to_id_a_typewriter_of_my_dads_as_it/

    1. Does anyone here use a purpose made typewriter desk? How do you like it? Alternatively, has anyone tried one and found it wasn't for them?

      I've used the small typewriter tables with drop sides and wheels before. I appreciate their small size and ability to move around. I'm actively looking for a new one at the moment. (I sold the original 20 years ago when downsizing during a move between apartments and prior to restarting my collection.)

      I currently use a dual pedestal desk and and usually have my typewriters on the pull out writing drawers. This drops the typewriter an inch and makes one's typing position (27" off the floor) much more comfortable than having the typewriter higher up 29-31" for most modern desks and tables.

      I have tested a pedestal desk with a spring-loaded typewriter platform that moves up and out of the desk after opening a door. This was an excellent experience, and if I find another, I will surely purchase it. The tough part is that they take up a lot of space as the internal desk space is given entirely to hiding the typewriter when not in use. They're definitely great if you have a heavy 30+ pound standard typewriter that's not so mobile.

      The third type are wooden desks with two desk height levels. One for traditional desk work and a second lower one as the typewriter platform. The lower height is obviously much more ergonomic for typing for long periods. On most of these desks, the inset typewriter space is most often given completely over for the typewriter to be there permanently. If your plan is to only have a typewriter, then jump, but their use is more difficult if you're sharing that space with a computer and need to move the two back and forth regularly. Additionally, the wooden desks have either permanent cut outs or can be flipped over to hide the cutout and make the entire desk space flush when the typewriter isn't in use. You'll have to use your own gut to decide which of these two might be best for you. I recently saw a reasonable version of a convertible wooden desk at https://abqtypers.substack.com/p/convertible-typewriter-desk

      I find these pop up pretty regularly in the $200-500 range. Often owners don't want them because they don't use typewriters, and they don't move easily, so they're likely to come down in price pretty quickly/easily.

    1. Olivetti Lettera 31 (Another name for the Dora -- or is it the opposite?) olivetti Dora (the actual base model if I'm not mistaken, with a bunch of rebrands worldwide) ETON (naturally this belongs on this list, I've even seen 2 others for sale online since) Underwood 315 (rebrand) Montgomery Ward Escort 33 (rebrand) Olivetti Underwood 310 (pretty sure this is a rebrand too, or at least very closely related) Olivetti Index (this is the closest thing I've found to my ETON branded one. It s PRACTICALLY the same in every regard - seen two online for sale) Montgomery ward escort 44 (also a rebrand of the DORA?!) Mercedes Super T (rebrand as well, seen one for sale) Montomery Ward Escort 77 (pretty close to being the same model again again... But not quite?) Neckermann BRILLANT Special T (DEFINITELY a rebrand. The manual is a dead give-away among other things) JUPITER (A typewriter 100% identical to the IDEX or ETON, but rebranded again again) Underwood 314 (no idea on this one. I gave up at this point)

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/19xx-olivetti-eton.23086.typewriter

    1. Royal HH & FP typewriter shipping help by [[Typewriter Justice]]

      Advice for how to package a heavy standard typewriter for shipping. Two heavy rubberbands to hold the margin release buttons to protect the escapement. Then plastic wrap to keep the carriage from moving during shipment. Then protection for the knobs and carriage return levers put into a first box. Then packing peanuts in a second box, fill to completely full and tape closed.

    1. Royal HHE Typewriter Demo of Features and Functions by [[Cincinnati Typewriter]]

      Orange and black typewriter painted when they thought Bengals were going to Super Bowl.

      Sadly didn't get the purpose of the numbered guides... presupposed they were in millimeters, but knew it wasn't that.

      Very shaky video... nauseating.

      Didn't differentiate between permanent and temporary variable line levels. Didn't get the way these work at all.

      Missed subtleties of Magic Margin, but did well enough.

      "strikers" instead of slugs or hammers

      Painted the colors on the bichrome wrong.

      Only partially understands touch control. Definitely doesn't know how to adjust them.

      Definitely don't use this as an example.

      Seems like an amateur painting and (maybe) cleaning up typewriters from home. I don't think I'd trust him based on this video.

    1. 1954 Royal HH, repainted | Typewriter Tutorial by [[Jot & Tittle Vintage Typewriters]]

      Pseudo-professional explaining the functionality of a Royal HH (sales video)

      took her two tries to get the proper ribbon reversal... <br /> didn't get/understand the touch control function<br /> Not original spools<br /> Doesn't understand card fingers<br /> At least knew "stencil", but didn't explain it beyond "it won't type"<br /> Didn't have a specific size for the large carriage<br /> Had issue with ribbon tension<br /> Couldn't get the hood button several times

      "I wouldn't write a long book on here." What the hell is she talking about? This was the entire purpose of this machine.

    1. The Minimal Complete Typewriter Collection by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Joe Van Cleave's personal six categories in a (his) typewriter collection: - Standard manual - medium-sized portable (largest segment in the collector's space) - lightweight portable or ultra-portable - typebar electric - IBM Selectric - Electronic typewriter (thermal typewriter), portable, quiet, battery operation.

      Joe's minimal collection based on what he's got in his collection currently and the condition that they're in: - Royal KMM (his only standard) - Hermes 3000 (boxy middle era) - Olympia Splendid 33 (he's also got a Royal Mercury & Groma Kalibri) - Olympia Reporter - Selectric I (the only one he's got) cloth, ribbon cartridge system, no lift-off correction - Canon Typestar 220

      Some of Joe's most important criteria in a typewriter: he prefers an elite face, 1 1/2 spacing, and bichrome setting.

      At the time of this recording Joe had 30 typewriters.

    1. I just realised the Antares was designed to sit inside the upside down lid, like a built in lap desk. As it sort of pivots on the two pegs in the back, you lift up the front of the machine like opening a lid and the top functions like a paper tray or drawer! :o

      via u/IrmaBecx at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e73576/comment/ldy6tjq/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

      With Antares portable typewriters on can often use the top cover of the case upside down and the typewriter will sit snugly inside and can be used as a lap desk.

    1. Given my current r/typewriter flair ("typewriters + card index = magic"), I couldn't help but appreciate that Lucas Dul features a 3x5" card index (aka database) of typewriter typefaces in a recent video on the 1896 Williams 3 typewriter: https://youtu.be/T1zzXwB3Xh8?si=K4FeiS-V_aev9_SZ&t=506. Those who have been following along on the typeface front will recognize some of the samples from this small index having been featured in a video on typewriter typefaces at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scrguKgDNIY.

      I'm reminded of a similar card index (or Zettelkasten if you speak German) database of type I saw last year via the Letterform Archive article at Schriftenkartei [Typeface Index], 1958–1971 and a related Flickr version of it at https://www.flickr.com/photos/letterformarchive/albums/72177720310834741/

      Lest you think these sorts of analog office pairings are completely obsolete, I feel compelled to mention that I've recently noticed that Pam Beasley's character had both an IBM typewriter and a metal 1970s/80s era two drawer metal card file behind her desk in the TV series The Office (NBC, 2005-2013).

      If typewriters and card indexes are your sort of thing, I've got a small personal collection as well as some research and writing about them which can be found at https://boffosocko.com/research/zettelkasten-commonplace-books-and-note-taking-collection/#Boxes

      If you follow my collections and work, you know I'm not beyond pairing up a nice typewriter with a card index (or two).

      img

      Image of a 1948 Royal and a matching Steelcase card index.

      Syndication link: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e5u5z3/era_appropriate_database_for_typewriter_typefaces/

    1. Two "5" keys (?!?) (SC Poweriter)

      reply to u/Deep-Seaworthiness48 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e5gh4p/two_5_keys_sc_poweriter/

      SMC Typewriter from late 60s/early 70s with a pound/5 key in the !/1 position whose 5 is duplicated in the usual %/5 position

      Things like that happened on alternate language/region typewriters. I've got a Dutch keyboard layout that repeats a % symbol twice.

      It's likely that the pound symbol was needed/required so they pulled one from a pre-existing typeslug and key cap on a keyboard where the £/5 key was common and replaced the 1/! which in the era was widely known could be done by alternate means (aka lower case 'l' and '.' backspace '''.

      The value of the £ was more important to the typist and because of typeface manufacture was probably easier to do in the £/5 existing combination from something like the English No. 1028, International No. 1060 keyboard, the Brazilian No. 1065, or the Danish No. 1047 all of which paired the £/5. See also: https://munk.org/typecast/2023/02/03/1954-smith-corona-scm-typewriter-type-styles-and-keyboards-catalog/

      Off hand, I don't see another S-C keyboard combination from that time period that had a £ paired with any other glyph/character. In the "change-a-type" time period they likely wouldn't have done a custom black key for the £/5 when they were already manufacturing one in a matching white. If they didn't also swap out the key at the far right end of that bank, I would expect it to be a standard black '+/=' key cap and slug.

    1. "The factory cannot only look at the profit index. It must distribute wealth, culture, services, democracy. I think factory for man, not man for factory, right? The divisions between capital and labour, industry and agriculture, production and culture must be overcome. Sometimes, when I work late I see the lights of the workers working double shifts, the clerks, the engineers, and I feel like going to pay my respects." —Adriano Olivetti

      quote likely from Incontro con la Olivetti (Giorgio Ferroni, 1950) via the Archivio Nazionale Cinema Impresa

      via https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e5gz0i/in_me_non_c%C3%A8_che_futuro/

    1. ribbon carrier (vibrator) not moving

      reply to u/67comet at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e4hu0s/smith_corona_electra_120_ribbon_carrier_not_moving/

      That piece is called a ribbon vibrator which moves the ribbon up and down. They generally operate on gravity and as a result they need to be clean and free from oil, gunk, hair, dust, etc. Usually they slide up and down freely. There's a colloquial saying in the typewriter space that "A typewriter isn't really broken unless it's clean and broken."

      Occasionally ribbon vibrators can become bent which makes them inoperable and this can be remedied with some light forming (bending) with an appropriate screwdriver or needle nosed plier. You can search YouTube and you'll find a variety of videos for cleaning and forming these back into shape so that they slide cleanly.

      As for your missing 1/! slug, it's unlikely that you'll find someone selling just the slug itself and then you'll need to solder it on perfectly and/or adjust it slightly with appropriate tools to get the right alignment. Far better is to check around with repair shops that might have the same or similar machines which they're parting out and then you could request one. Your best bet is to purchase the entire typebar and slug assembly from a donor machine which you can then swap out into your machine and skip the soldering. For this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFMu6dUROGA can give you tips.

      To find donor machines, try repair shops on this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

    1. Part 4: COMPLETE Olympia SM3 Service and Repair Series: STICKY RIBBON LIFTER by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      The universal bar lifts the ribbon vibrator.

      Adjustment points to adjust the ribbon lift heights for issues with red/black on bichrome use.

      Maximum travel of the universal bar adjustment screws on crossbar that attaches to springs. timestamp 5:29

      Screws at the ends of the cross bar which are attached to the key springs can be adjusted slightly to provide for heavier or lighter touch control. Timestamp 6:07

    1. What are the must have tools for a maintenance of a typewriter, some tools you recommend, some that make maintenance a little bit easier

      reply to u/riatai69 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e3c0zy/tools_for_a_deep_maintenance/

      You can do a tremendous amount with just a few things:

      • thin Philips screwdriver with a small magnet to hold/catch screws
      • small adjustable wrench
      • bottle of Simple Green (or other mild cleaner)
      • can of mineral spirits (naphtha, paint thinner, varnish remover, PB B'laster etc.) with a standard/cheap restaurant refillable ketchup/mustard squeeze bottle
      • Toothbrush (and/or brass bristle brush)
      • canned air
      • a piece of string (useful for reattaching some pieces without more specialized tools, and particularly for reattaching springs)
      • light machine oil (gun or sewing machine) for very lightly oiling your carriage rails
      • YouTube for watching lots of typewriter repair videos

      If you want to go higher end and do a lot more

      • a set of spring hooks with push/pull ends
      • full set of small wrenches
      • more custom screw drivers
      • a nice thick felt pad (approx 15" x 15" x 1/2"+ for having a place to sit your typewriter on without scratching it up)
      • a small lazy susan big enough to set your typewriter on to more easily manipulate it
      • air compressor (to replace your canned air)
      • bins and trays for storing typewriter parts and screws while you're taking them apart and putting back together
      • a set up for spraying down/washing out typewriters (DIY ideas include paint roller trays or plastic milk crates as a base and plastic bins for catching the run off)
      • wiping cloths or similar cloth rags for wiping things down

      If you want to go crazy

      • Keyring pliers
      • set up for respooling ribbon from 330+ yard spools
      • The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible https://typewriterrepairbible.com/ as well as various other repair manuals and all the tools listed within them.
      • storage shelving for 100+ typewriters
      • a small collection of machines for parting out
      • an 800+ square foot workshop space
      • a publisher for you book about typewriters

      When you're really ready for full-on insanity

    1. Adjustment screw for the Olympia SM3 on feet shift set up is just to the side of the ribbon spool/cup. Gerren indicates that he's never been able to do this adjustment properly with the typewriter body on, so it's much easier to do with it off.

      The bottom adjustment point (through the side of the frame) allows one to set the base line for the on foot for the lower case letters while the top one sets the upper case.


      Gerren credits Phoenix Typewriter for most of the material he's learned in terms of fixing typewriters.

      Bill at Philly Typewriter has an apprentice program, but there aren't many shops that do this. (Gerren makes a joke that it's free (child) labor.)


      Trip point adjustments

      The trip point is the point at which the typebar trips the movement of the escapement.

      The adjustment point for it is reachable by removing the small protecting plate on the bottom at the back of the machine. The escapement trigger is just underneath it.

      The lower one (top if the machine is upside down) is for the lower case; the top one is for the upper case.

      Screwing the screw in will cause the trip to occur sooner.


      Spacebar adjustment mechanisms [13:00]

      There are two, one set in the front of the bottom of the typewriter and two screws in the back, right near the escapement.

      If the spacebar is hit too many times while cleaning and repairing, the spacebar won't work properly and will need some minor adjustment when the body is put back on.


      He shows at the end how to remove the keytops of the individual keys.


      The final check is the shift lock mechanism to make sure its aligned properly.

    1. The timing was less than ideal. His previous works had all proved “dismal financial flops,” as he said in 1950. He had recently secured an appointment at Cornell University as an associate professor of Russian literature. For the first time in two decades, the couple found themselves in the neighborhood of financial security. If ever there had been a time when Mrs. Nabokov should have discouraged her husband from working on what seemed an unsellable manuscript, it was 1949.

      Nabokov began teaching at Cornell in 1948 and must have been relatively financially well-off enough to afford the roughly $95 ($1,248 in 2024 dollars) for a brand new Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter.

      The typewriter is pictured at the top of the article in a photo from a 1958 photo shoot. Presumably he bought it contemporaneously, though may have gotten it used after its release in 1949. The model changed in mid-1950.

    1. Differences between Olympia SGE typewriters

      reply to u/ingeniouskeys at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e0utt9/differences_between_olympia_sge_typewriters/

      The Typewriter Database is going to be one of your better sources, but will require delving into each particular exemplar to see what their owners may have written about them. So, for example, go to https://typewriterdatabase.com/Olympia.SGE40.61.bmys and then click on the individual galleries for all the machines. If you've got an account, you can message those who currently have them and ask questions directly.

      Given their manufacture in the late 60s and into the early 70s you're likely to find small incremental improvements in the electrical side, but you're also likely to find more dramatic changes in manufacturing which made them cheaper (replacing metal pieces for flimsier plastic.) I doubt the 45 (later 70s) is going to be incredibly much better than the 40, which I would suspect to be more robust from a manufacturing standpoint. You may have vaguely better "specs", but its build quality is likely going to suffer even more, so you'll have to balance out what you're after.

      If you want to delve into the deeper specifics, then try out the repair manuals for them: https://www.lulu.com/shop/ted-munk/the-olympia-sge-304050-typewriter-repair-manual/paperback/product-1e4pnd4v.html?page=1&pageSize=4

    1. The keys beingattached to the type bars and working inunison with the carriage movement enabledus for the first time to test the work ofprinting words and sentences. We werethen in the midst of an exciting politicalcampaign, and it was then for the first timethat the well known sentence was inaugu-rated,—"*Now is the time for all good mento come to the aid of the party;” also theopening sentence of the Declaration of In-dependence, ““When in the course of humanevents,” etc., which sentences were repeat-ed many times in order to test the speed ofthe machine.

      While some sources indicate that "Now is the time..." was used as an early typing exercise, Charles Weller in his book on the history of typewriters indicates it, along with the opening of the Declaration of Independence, was "repeated many times in order to test the speed of the [typewriter] machine.

    2. I have been describing the actions of themachine in some of its worst moods. Butdon’t imagine for a moment that this was acontinuous affair. There were times wheneverything worked beautifully, and _ thespeed that could be gotten out of it at suchtimes was something marvelous, especiallywhen we got onto that familiar centence,“Now is the time for all good men to cometo the aid of the party.”

      More recent typing books use a variant: “Now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of their country”. This version fills out a 70-space line if you count the period at the end.

      General lore has it that Charles Weller used the phrase as a typing exercise in the early 1900s.

    3. Then again, at times the little steel“dog” with its escapement working backand forth in the ratchet which controlledthe movement of the paper frame wouldfail to do its work properly, and the car-riage would jump an inch or two, or per-haps half a line, stopping with a suddenjerk, which was calculated to make onenervous, to say the least.

      Apparently they were calling it a "dog" pretty early on...

    1. Part 3: COMPLETE Olympia SM3 Service/Set Up Guide- Carriage Adjustments/ Ring and Cylinder by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Not mentioned in the video is that, at least on his model, most of the common adjustment points have screws or nuts which have a brassy look rather than silvery almost as a means of highlighting them as subtle adjustment points for improving the performance of the machine.

      Sometimes the carriage lock mechanism on the Olympia SM3 may not clear the carriage rail completely and this can result in it rubbing on the returns which results in a zipper or grinding sound. Forming the bar that connects the lever to the mechanism can quickly remedy this issue. See timestamp 2:17

      Fore and aft adjustments on carriages

      Details at timestamp

      Side to side adjustment on carriage:

      Details at timestamp

      Forward and backward carriage adjustments (on both sides):

      Details at timestamp

      Adjustment for the spacing between the carriage rails:

      This adjustment is rarely done unless there is something drastically wrong with the machine Details at timestamp

      Adjustment on the carriage stoppers for how much bounce the carriage shift might have as well as how high or low the carriage sits at it's lowest point using the triangle sliding bracket on each side of the carriage with two screws. If these force the carriage too high, it can affect where the type sits in terms of potentially interfering with the bichrome settings to make letters (especially the tallest ones) have two colors when they should only have one. Details at timestamp 8:14

      Adjustment on the rear springs for how light or heavy the carriage shift may be. Raise the spring and then adjust the small "nut" on the top. Details at timestamp 9:52

      Ring and Cylinder adjustment for Olympia SM3<br /> Details at timestamp

      Gerren doesn't seem to understand (or perhaps doesn't discuss it) some of the mechanics behind this adjustment beyond the distance of the platen to the typeface, but the usual suggestion is that the typeface shouldn't actually strike the paper and/or the platen. Ideally there should be just enough space between the typeface and the platen that an addition sheet of paper can be easily slid between the two along with the ribbon and another sheet of paper. This will allow the typeface to just kiss the ribbon and force the ink onto the front sheet of paper. Doing this will help to protect the integrity of the paper being typed on (ie, no deep imprints being pressed into the paper -- often seen with the period), as well as the integrity of the platen (preventing chips and imprints into the rubber, especially if it has been hardened), and the longer term integrity of the ribbon which can tend to be cut into by the typeface if it's too close.

      From a physics perspective there is some minor amount of flex in the typebar arm between where the "hammer" at the bottom of the typebar hits the "anvil" (aka ring) and the top of the typeface which, when typing at speed will tend to "throw" the typeface a tad farther than it would hit when the hammer hits the anvil when simply holding it against the ring manually.

    1. Likely the key lockout isn't resetting like it's supposed to upon carriage return - the little part you mentioned. Cleaning and light oil on the friction and pivot points of that and the margin stop assembly usually can get things moving again. That's the most common issue I see in Royal Standards.

      Advice by Nashville Typewriter at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dwqi1r/friend_found_in_junk_pile/lbwege9/

    1. It can be useful to take some mineral spirits, naphtha, or paint thinner and a tooth brush (or, even better, a brass bristle brush) to your typeface every now and then to clean the ink, dirt, paper, bits of ribbon, dust, etc. out of it. Doing it after changing ribbon is always a good idea. If you're really hard pressed, nail polish remover (acetone) or rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball along with a small pin tip for the loops of letters like 'a', 'o', 'p', 'g', etc. can be used.

      How well (or not) your typewriter works from a print perspective can also change with the type of paper you're using, what your ribbon is made out of (usually nylon, silk, or cotton), how much ink it's got in it and how old/worn it may be. A good backing sheet behind your typing paper can also be helpful.


      reply to u/kirrachristine at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dtuksy/one_letter_weirdly_thicksmudged/ RE: one letter weirdly thick/smudged