https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ijiwn0/hermes_10_repair/

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/w1k8lq/vintage_typewriter_repair_resources/

https://selectric.org/selectric/

Replacing the Carriage on a Royal Portable Typewriter by [[Marty Morren]]

https://www.m-morren.nl/product/17071027/royal-bearing-guide-ball-feeder-tool

Triumph Adler Tippa / Tippa S / Contessa De Luxe Service Manual - T.A. Vertriebs-GmbH Nürnberg<br /> by [[T.A. Vertriebs-GmbH Nürnberg]]

Typewriter Video Series - Episode 231: Petite Toy Typewriter by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

I see a Hermes 3000 typewriter on the shelf behind AOC here. The true "Green New Deal"!

ᔥ[[BonchBomber]] in Spotted on AOC’s shelf : r/typewriters

reply to u/Ill_Tear8308

Not so much that they're proprietary, but the Zephyr, Skyriter, and later Corsairs used the 1 5/8" diameter spools, which fit about 12 yards of ribbon versus the more common universal 2" spools which will hold 16 yards of ribbon.

1/2" wide ribbon should work on this. Sellers include: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

If you wind it onto pre-existing spools keep in mind that Smith-Coronas typically used eyelets in the ribbon to effect the auto-ribbon reverse, though you could certainly do it manually if you needed to.

There aren't a lot of examples of Empire-Coronas in the typewriter database, so be sure to include your example with photos:

https://typewriterdatabase.com/empire.24.typewriter-serial-number-database

https://typewriterdatabase.com/Empire.-Corona+Skyriter.24.bmys

reply to u/HenRoRo61

Earlier today, in a now-deleted post, someone had posted a question about identifying one of Helen Keller's typewriters based on this video in her archive.

Having done some initial digging, I thought I'd share some of the details I've found for those who may find it interesting.

According to researcher Richard Polt, Helen Keller was known to use both a Hammond and an L.C. Smith no. 5.

As for the Remington Noiseless, it definitely appears to be a mid-century Noiseless Standard with a tabulator. To know the year, you'd need either the specific serial number (to cross check https://typewriterdatabase.com/remington.42.typewriter-serial-number-database) or you'd need many more examples than the Typewriter Database currently has listed under the generic Remington Noiseless.

If you're careful at looking at the design choices and changes in some of the Remington Portables from that time period which would have likely tracked the design changes of their desktop standards, you might be able to extrapolate a closer dating based on the styling, but this will still only give you a dating within a year or so.

The tabulator was at the top of the keyboard by 1937, so you can probably presume it was a model from that point or thereafter until 1954. Most American typewriter manufacturers didn't make machines from '41-45 due to WWII, so you can discard those dates. Remington had moved into thicker/taller plastic keys by the early 1950s, so I would guess her machine was more likely from the late 1940s.

Looking more closely at the Remington Noiseless 10, I'd suggest that this is the most likely set of candidates, particularly in the timeframe of 1946-1947. Hers obviously had the openings in the rear and had the metal covers on the sides (as opposed to glass found on some models). Comparing hers in the film to some of these individual galleries may help to narrow things down with respect to dating.

Perhaps others with more Remington Standard experience, may be able to narrow things down here.

The appraisal of her Remington Noiseless in 1957 was $135.00.

One might find some close noiseless models in the $20-40 range + shipping (these are about 30 pounds and will cost about $35 for shipping) via ShopGoodwill.com. Here are some recent sales for comparison. Based on the video you'll want the bigger, heavier ones (25+ pounds) rather than the smaller portables with cases (usually under 20 pounds). Generally machines purchased this way are reasonably functional, but usually need some cleaning and work to be restored to full functionality.

Unless you're sure they're being sold by repair shops and have been cleaned and are fully functional, don't overspend on potential exemplars on sites like Etsy or eBay which are likely to be only marginally better (aka dusted off) than ShopGoodwill machines, but at 5-10x the price.

Hellen Keller's brailler: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B049-183&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

She apparently owned a \~1938 or 1939 Corona Silent as well: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B045-184.1.1&srpos=19&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

One might have some luck trying to find a Corona Silent typewriter from that era, but the unique color is going to put a machine like it into the $100-200 range (at a minimum and potentially going up from there depending on the condition) unless you get lucky at a garage sale somewhere.

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/16s3u8o/i_found_this_cool_service_guid_in_one_of_my/

I read this as a mixture of mineral spirits, Blue Creeper and a bit of gun oil which is applied after cleaning as a means of lubricating a typewriter.

I only tend to give my typewriters "names" once they're fully cleaned and generally restored and have used them for a bit to know their "character". An example here is my 1950 Royal KMG (Keset Magic Gray) which I call "Sterling" after the Mad Men character Roger Sterling; I also cleaned the the interior with bourbon as an homage.

Many I refer to by year of manufacture and model name ('55 Clipper or '48 Clipper, for example), particularly when I have several similar looking ones from the same time period. A few have names based on writers who I know have used the same models from roughly the same time period (so I have a '49 Royal QDL I've named "Nabokov"). My '48 Royal QDL I call "Dreyfuss" in honor of the typewriter's industrial designer who lived a few miles away from me.

Others are referred to by shorthands featuring unique characteristics, so I have one called "The Vogue" and another I call the "Math SM3" for it's unique math symbol characters. My Remington 666 is variously either "El Diablo" or "Robert Johnson", whose music I listen to while typing on it. I have a German Orga which I call the "Wonka Machine" as one of its brethren appeared in Willy Wonka's office in Charlie and The Chocolate Factory (1971).

A few I call by the first names of their prior owners as an homage to their history before I became their caretakers.

I call my Royal HH the "HHE" as that's the serial number prefix for my machine which has an elite face.

What you call your own is entirely up to you.

More on typewriters and naming: https://boffosocko.com/2024/05/25/collective-nouns-for-typewriters-and-typists/

Reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1id4y49/how_to_refer_to_a_typewriter/ by r/ich_mag_frettchen

Typewriter Chicago / Lucas Dul rates: - Diagnosis for $20 - Manuals: general cleaning and service: $165 - repairs at $65/hour plus parts - average job on manuals runs around $400 - teardowns and restorations billed purely hourly around $55/hour

This example is $1,100 for 5 hours of frame/welding work and 15 hours of tear down, cleaning and re-assembly. He'll likely go 4 hours over, but is discounting it.

Making Custom Typewriter Line Spacings by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

I suspected JVC would have a custom cut platen gear, but he's using a premarked backing sheet to adjust each line to do one and a half line spacing.

Joe mentions that the manual adjustments on each line is a net positive in that it gives him some time to pause and collect his thoughts before continuing writing on each line.

David McCullough on His Typewriter by [[C-SPAN]]

Man shed for writing with a single room of 8' x 12' with 800 books, Royal KMM typewriter, and 2 filing cabinets. He's written every book he's ever done on his Royal KMM.

"It's got 750,000 miles on it."

‘We’d be stuck’: alarm as UK’s last braille typewriter repairer ponders retirement by [[Matthew Weaver]]

I often find things inside typewriters...

Alan Thorpe cleans his Perkins Braillers in a paraffin bath.

Typewriter review: Royal Epoch by [[Richard Polt]]

Typewriter Basics: End of Page Indicators by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

Handful of methods:<br /> - page gauges (Smith-Corona, some Royals) - paper support arm (adjustable) - notch in paper pan (Hermes & some Silver Seikos) - Platen knobs (requires mod math and adjustable ring) (IBM)

Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

Basic Tools

• screwdriver sets
  • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
  • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
  • long reach screwdriver
  • magnetic screwdriver
  • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
  • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
• spring hooks (push/pull)
  • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
  • grab hooks
• pliers
  • standard needle nose pliers
  • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
  • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
  • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
• Mechanics' wrench set
  • prefer cast ones
  • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
  • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
• Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
• Tweezers
• Blowtorches
  • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
  • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
  • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
• Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
  • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
• MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
• strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
• knife (butter knife)
  • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
• flashlight (simple is fine)
• marker (Sharpie)
  • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
• hammer
• retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
• Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
• Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

Intermediate Tools

• segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
• drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
• carpenter's pencil for marking

Advanced/Specialty tools

• t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
• 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
• peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
• wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
• eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
• files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

Very specialized

• Type slug solder jig or solder guide (30:52)
• keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
• multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

Honorable mentions

• center punch for drilling points and new screws
• dental mirror for looking into machines
• spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

Q&A

air compressors are useful for cleaning

Don't damage screws on older machines.

US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

On This Day in Typewriter History: Royal’s HH - 'The Greatest New Typewriter of All Time' by [[Robert Messenger]]

what's your deserted island typewriter? (if I had to pick 5 typewriters...)<br /> by [[Just My Typewriter]]

Olympia SM-3 Typewriter Ribbon Lift Adjustment Cuts Off by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

Adjustment for the tops of letters being cut off, particularly on Olympias and Underwoods. Sometimes happens with the first capitalized letter after typing lowercase.

Royal Quiet Deluxe Typewriter Cuts Off Top of Letters Ribbon Lift Adjusted, Repaired Character Print by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

If the tops of one or two individual letters is being cut off, it may require forming of the letter's assembly to have it engage with ribbon lift bar a tad earlier.

This is different in form from an on feet adjustment.

Could Ultra One's rust solution be used on typewriters?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marvel_Mystery_Oil

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

https://www.etsy.com/shop/BrooksawAntiques<br /> Adam of Brooksaw Antiques<br /> Indicates 5 years of typewriter repair experience in an individual listing from eBay.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/BrooksawAntiques?section_id=48697210

The 2023 Rover Typewriter: Worst Machine Ever? by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

I know Michaels was carrying the We R Memory Keepers typewriter, but hadn't heard about Home Depot carrying them.

Rover made by Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company still making typewriters (bad quality control, plastic, poor alignment). These are variously rebadged as: - the Rover - the Royal Epoch - We R Memory Keepers (Michaels, Home Depot) - Royal Classic (metal shell) - Maplefield (Target, Walmart, Michaels) - The Oliver Typewriter Company

Will Davis has determined that they're all based on the Olympia Carina.

(Some summary of ring & cylinder adjustments based on other notes)

A new platen in many cases will help to solve some of the proximal problem, but you'll still have heavy wear on your paper/ribbon and your new platen over time as a result. The first adjustments a pro typewriter repair person would make after installing a new platen would be to check the ring & cylinder, on feet, and motion which can all be subtly out of alignment with a new platen.

Pretty much every typewriter in modern era has adjustment points for this. All three of the machines you name definitely do. You'll find some of the basics and adjustment points for several machines described at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1945-AMES-OAMI-MechanicalTrainingMan.v1-ringcylinder.manual. If you look at the manuals for specific machines that Ted Munk has collected at the typewriterdatabase.com, you'll find how/where to make those adjustments. Several on Polt's website describe the adjustment as well: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

Some sources may describe the adjustment as hammer and anvil as opposed to ring and cylinder.

You're also likely to find YouTube videos on them as well (I'd check Phoenix Typewriter's channel first, though I do recall he mislabeled one once on a S-C Skyriter which was really an on feet/motion adjustment.) Duane's also got a really subtle and uncommon adjustment on a Royal QDL here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOET0i3DsR8

Gerren gives an adjustment nod for the Olympia SM series here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2jnC6ODB834&t=670s And here's a blogpost about the adjustment points for an Olympia SF: https://ber10thal.com/blog/repairing-a-1961-olympia-sf/

Related blogposts from Munk for a Brother JP-1:

• https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/
• https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

Hopefully your machines and hardware appreciate the finer adjustments and wear better over time as a result.

Happy typing!

reply to u/Jbhusker at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hk15pf/the_frenzy_continues_where_does_it_end/ on an old and rough looking Underwood No. 3 from 1927

The shipping price is suspicious as even Shopgoodwill wouldn't ship it for that low. I do notice some online sellers playing games between machine pricing and shipping. They'll often price a machine lower than "market" and then make up for it with an astronomical shipping price. This example seems to have gone the other way, which may help some novice typewriter purchasers who wouldn't understand that this is a 30# machine.

What's going on in this example does present some interesting analysis of the current market.

Possibilities driving the price here: - Week before Christmas and someone is burning spare cash on a decorative/nostalgic present at the last minute. (I've noticed prices on everything going up in the last two months at a greater than usual clip. I suspect things will come crashing down a bit after the New Year.) - It was photographed well. - Included a video of it actually typing as proof that it "works". - It has the look of having been cleaned up despite the look of old patina which was left to make the machine show its age. Look at the exterior screws which appear cleaned/refinished while portions of the exterior don't. In fact, the underlying servicer (Adam of Brooksaw Antiques) seems to specialize in servicing machines to working order but leaving lots of age and patina on them almost as if they're being aged up on purpose. They've got lots of examples on a variety of socials as well as presences on Etsy and Ebay, which speaks to some level of experience. Given the appearance of experience here, I'd bet the machine shows up in the condition it was shipped. - "New ink" decreases the stress of the buyer on finding it themself (potentially a $30-50 value to the customer) and it only cost the seller $2, because I'm dead certain they bought it in bulk. - The eBay reviews of this shop are stunning over 931 items. The lowest is a 4.9 out of 5, which I'm guessing is someone dinging them on shipping price from an earlier sale where they had more realistic shipping numbers on large standards. - "Military Sand" may possibly have been misinterpreted as this being a mill. It is a great marketing name for the color in any case. - I would guess that the purchaser is buying this as a single showpiece for nostalgia's sake. They're getting the bonus that it works. (Like Kirk, I'm not a big fan of the refurb paint on these.) - Its the week before Christmas...

reply to u/Rocky__1927 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hirzo5/remington_premier/

As Ted Munk has commented on these before, rare is a reach. They're uncommon primarily because they didn't manufacture as many of these as they did of the American Quiet-Riters (or Office- or Letter-Riters). I would suspect it's stamped as made in Great Britain (though actually made in Scotland) after American manufacture moved there in the late 50s/early 60s where they only made them for a short time before switching over to more plastic bodied machines. Probably has a serial number starting with ERP on the frame near the ribbon cup. It's essentially a Quiet-Riter made in Scotland with smooth paint rather than crinkle. Surely some of the manufacturing process and materials will be slightly different/cheaper.

There may be a completist Remington collector who might pay over $100 for it, but I wouldn't think you'd have an easy time getting over $75 for this unless it's in excellent/serviced condition, particularly when ubiquitous QRs with sturdier cases can be had for $10-25 in similar condition.

Typewriter Video Series - Episode 59: Tray Table Typing Hacks by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

https://stock.periscopefilm.com/?s=typewriter

Worth indexing a portion of these.

ELEMENTARY TYPING <br /> via Periscope Film #15494

Elementary Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Periscope Film, #15494, 1971. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdyoPu_ASw.<br /> running time: 00:12:06

Produced by Moreland-Latchford Productions, Ltd this informational film from 1971 titled “Elementary Typing” teaches the basics of becoming a good typist. The film features a manual Typemaster, a trade name used by Underwood as far back as the 1930s. This version of the machine featured both red and black ribbons. An electric version is seen at 9:00.

The film is broken down into different sections that focus on different elements of typing from the rhythmic beat of typing to optimal hand positioning as well as how to set up a typewriter. “Elementary Typing” is part of a larger film series related to the art of typing with other titles including “Posture and the Keyboard,” “First Step Typing,” “Machine Techniques,” and “Remedial Typing.” Advisors for the creation of the film include James Treliving Commercial Coordinator North York Board of Education, J.T. Albani East York Board of Education, Sheila Wright Etobicoke Board of Education, and Ronald Thelander Director of Audio-Visual Aids Metropolitan Separate School Board, Toronto. In addition, the film was directed by Rod Maxwell and written by Robert Browning and featured Alex Veltman as the cameraman, Carl Connell as editor, Joe Hayward as production head, and James McCormick as executive producer.

Pink illustrated typewriter on navy blue background (0:09). Outline of topics covered (0:17). A: early rhythm and reading – metronome and hands typing in the background (0:22). Aerial view of hands typing on an 197X Underwood Typemaster model typewriter (0:42). Camera pans words typed on a page (1:27). Close-up of letters being printed onto a page (1:36). Woman sitting at desk typing quickly (2:24). B: Paper Insertion – close-up of typewriter and hand setting the paper guide at the correct place on the paper table (2:35). Explanation of correct form and technique for holding and inserting paper (2:58-4:23). Explanation of paper removal (4:26). Badminton player returning various shots (4:41). Close-up of hands on the typewriter emphasizing the art of positioning (5:07). C: The Shift – explanation of the shift key (5:15-6:30). D: The Carriage Return – close-up of the device (6:32). The woman types and uses the carriage return (6:46-9:00). The Electric Typewriter – comparison between 197X Underwood Type Master manual model and Underwood 765 Type Master electric model typewriter (9:04). Difference between typing strategies (10:03). Benefits of using an electric machine (10:20). Closing credits (11:35).

World's fastest typist in typewriter - Stella Pajunas

140 wpm

Typing with a handkerchief covering the keyboard such that the handkerchief doesn't move.

Ron "Typewriter" Mingo, World's Fastest Typist

Typing letter for letter, word for word, or phrase for phrase.

Using music while typing as motivation.

https://hackaday.io/search?term=typewriter

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6n3KfROmin8

https://oztypewriter.blogspot.com/2013/03/which-typewriter-1968-british-consumers_3.html

Not a Type-oh! Last Minute Christmas Gift for the Typewriter Lover in Your Life. by [[Mary Beth Klatt]]

The markets and level of ubiquity of these items in their heyday are so dramatically different that this is certainly an apples and oranges comparison.

However, if you want to compare the artist/users of the instrument to their machines, which is a way of potentially intuiting a potential answer to your question (one which is highly subjective), you might go by who was using particular typewriters of the time. Here's some data to consider: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html

For that rough era in American-made machines, you'll see peak engineering/manufacturing in the 1950s out of the Smith-Corona Super Silent, the Remington Quiet-Riter, and the Royal Quiet De Luxe. Design, touch, and tuning can all be such subjective measures here so as to heavily Muddy (the) Waters ('52 Gibson Les Paul Gold Top/'58 Fender Telecaster) on style, quality, and popularity amongst the cognoscenti. Peak quality in the 60s had broadly moved to post-war Germany and Italy with machines from Olympia (SM3, 4, 5, 7, etc.) and Olivetti respectively.

For my personal money, in American machines of the time, I love the design and performance of my well-tuned, and mostly restored 1950 Royal KMG. However, the current market certainly wouldn't indicate a broader beloved status for these the way you'll see for Stratocasters. (You'll also find some horribly maintained and un-tuned machines out there on the market, which is why so much of the antique and vintage typewriter market pricing is so wildly out of whack.)

A separate flavor of question certainly, but if you're looking for a solid performing typewriter to pair aesthetically and temporally with a '64 Strat, I'd go with a Royal FP ('57-62) (which came in Royaltone or Pearl Dark Gray smooth, Royaltone or Pearl Light Gray smooth, Willow Green smooth, Sea Blue smooth, Cameo Pink smooth (Petal Pink) , Brushed Aluminum, Sandstone smooth, and Coral Rose) or the smaller Royal Futura 800 ('58-'63).

When it comes to some of the older manual typewriters, condition is king and a big determinant of price. For the budget range you're in, you're more likely to get something in mediocre shape that's going to require some work: cleaning, repairs, parts, other.

Your best bet is to go to a repair shop that sells machines, put your hands on them, try them out, ask lots of questions, then buy your favorite. Your time is worth money and productivity, so buy something you like out of the gate and you'll save a lot in the long run. You'll probably be happier and better off in the long run with something in the £200-400 range. It will also give you something you can start using right away to get your work done rather than faffing about.

Try shops from this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

I'd generally endorse most of the advice on models you'll find in these sources which are geared specifically toward writers, all three sources have lots experience and reasonable bona fides to make such recommendations. (Though they do tend toward some of the more expensive portables rather than the sturdier and more economical standard machines.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9dXflhDed0<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKMt-aCHZZk<br /> https://typewriterreview.com/2020/01/10/top-10-writerly-typewriters/

Beyond this Just My Typewriter has a few short videos that'll give you a crash course on Typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

u/jbhusker's advice is solid if you prefer that sort of machine instead.

reply to u/ArcherNF at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hdgte4/looking_for_a_recommendation/

https://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=typewriter&sp=1&st=gallery

The 'Crypto' Underwood Typewriter by [[Robert Messenger]]

https://www.reddit.com/user/Jbhusker/<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/typewriters.php?hunter_search=7197

same person based on direct message

https://typewriterdatabase.com/196x-remington-superriter.23240.typewriter

Annotated photo of Remington's Fold-A-Matic screw locations.

Remington 24: Darth Vader's other typewriter by [[Richard Polt]]

Easy access to your Super-Riter and later Typewriters – To Type, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth… by [[Ted Munk]]

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h4b3aw/is_there_a_source_that_exists_that_sells_or/

If you need them for basic functionality, often you can find the manuals of the original manufacturers' models for rebrands (example: the Sears Tower machines which were really just rebrandings of the Smith-Corona 5 series).

Additionally, after the 1930s there really wasn't a lot of new functionality, so almost any manual will help you to get you where you need to go, though there are some small differences in locations of things like carriage locks which can be helpful to know about and whose placement moved around on various machines.

You might also notice that as typewriters were more ubiquitous in the 60s and 70s their manuals got thinner and thinner with less detail. If you do find a specific manual, you're unlikely to find very much in it.

The Davis Brothers have some history on the Commodore line which was related to some of the Sears Chevron line. Polt does have two Commodore manuals which may be close to your machine: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

On the value of typewriters

As a hobbyist, you'll easily obtain several hundred dollars worth of potential diversion and satisfaction out of your alluring typewriter by cleaning, properly oiling, and adjusting it. Then you're guaranteed to both give and receive thousands of dollars worth of happiness out of it by typing letters to family and friends. With practice, you may reap millions by writing stories, plays, poems, screenplays, and books.

Even if your scintillating typewriter sits on a shelf as home decor only to be viewed as a museum piece, you'll have gotten $50 of value for even that lowly function.

You'll only have wasted your money if your wondorous typewriter sits lonely and forgotten in a dusty attic or dank basement to rust and rot away.

Might you have gotten it for less? Perhaps, but you've saved yourself a huge amount of time and effort in such a hunt for a machine as desirous as this. You have it in front of you for writing right now.

So get to typing at once my friend! For time is money, and every moment your fingers aren't caressing its keys, you are losing value.

Congratulations on your stunning find.

reply to u/readysalted344 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h3jyyt/did_i_waste_my_money/

How to Choose a Typewriter for Serious Writing by [[Jonny Eberle]] on 2024-11-24

A good overview of some of the considerations one may want to make when looking for a typewriter.

With respect to your spools, the side you show in the photo should go face down and the "v" cut side should face up. If you don't have one you can find a manual at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKHM.pdf The Royal standards from the X onward are broadly the same so manuals for the X, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, Empress, and FP should all be useful too: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

reply to u/Pawps4895 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h1dcil/help_ink_ribbon_not_moving/

That ghosting effect you're seeing may be down to your typing technique. Computer keyboard typing technique is different than typewriter technique. If you're pressing hard and/or bottoming the keys out, you may not be getting your fingers out of the way and causing the key to double strike while you're lifting your finger up.

Instead, type as if they keys are hot lava. Strike and release them as quickly as possible and that ghosting should clear up. For more on technique, try: https://hypothes.is/users/chrisaldrich?q=tag%3A%22typing+technique%22

If that isn't the issue, is that ghosting happening on all the keys or just a few? Cleaning things out certainly couldn't hurt: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

Clack to the future: Typewriters are pounding out new roles in communities by [[Phaedra Trethan]]

reply to u/EriikE at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gypxpa/which_parts_are_still_valuable_for_resell_on_this/lyqq28s/

Generally "parting out" is what typewriter shops do to repair machines that need replacement parts that are no longer manufactured.

The Typewriter Database has a special section for listing machines people are parting out: https://typewriterdatabase.com/typewriters.php?collection_search=Parting+Out

Most Petite typewriters use T4430 or T4431 ribbon (1/4" wide or 6.50mm) which can be found on eBay and other sites. It generally requires original spools.

These were generally carbon/plastic based ribbon.

https://www.mortati.com/glusker/marchant/scmstory/p3.htm

Start of an outline for a longer article on typewriter tools<br /> Suggested by reply to u/Confident_Avocado768 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gy25og/christmas_gift_help/

If they've been doing restoration for a while, try to find out what they already have to avoid duplication. Anyone who's done a few machines is likely to have a lifetime supply of lubricant (it really goes a long way) and is likely to have gone well beyond cotton swabs. The sort of kit you mention would be more appropriate to someone who's recently gotten their first typewriter, not someone who has restored more than a machine or two.

Chances are that you can up the level of their restoration tool bag with a small handful of inexpensive and easy to source options:

• oiler bottles for solvents/cleaning
• spring hook (push)
• spring hook (pull)
• spring hook (captive)
• wiping cloths (cotton)
• nylon, brass, and steel brushes (example; 2 or 3 sets of these are always useful)
• high quality wool mats make a great (soft) surface for working on machines (as well as for typing on). Here's some details and a link to a well-recommended one.

I've documented some of my own versions of these with links at https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/

Slightly more expensive tools that they may not have:

• hollow ground/precision screwdriver set ($35-150)
• Lucas Dul and others often suggest the Chapman typewriter set: https://chapmanmfg.com/products/0623-r-typewriterset
• Others recommend the slightly more ergonomic Weaver multi-bit gunsmith tool kit: https://www.bushnell.com/gunsmithing-tools/driver-and-hammer-sets/multi-bit-tool-kit/WV-849718.html
• Small air compressor ($75-$150) for cleaning out machines

If you really want to shoot the moon and they're into the older vintage machines, you could get them a new pair of keyring pliers: http://mytypewriter.com/hello-qwerty-typewriter-keyring-pliers-kit.aspx

You can also browse Lucas Dul's kit for other ideas via this presentation: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

Good luck and Merry Christmas! 🪛🛠️🎅🏼🎄

Useful template for emailing about shipping typewriters

Dear TK:

Quite often typewriters are damaged beyond repair in shipping. This is particularly true of larger/heavier typewriters like this one.

Primary concerns are to prevent movement of the carriage and protecting the carriage knobs and the silver carriage return arm.

Please use an elastic band(s)/rubber band(s) to permanently hold the carriage release lever to the green carriage knob(s). The carriage release lever is the silver piece just above the green knobs on either side of the typewriter carriage (the part that would move back and forth while typing.) This should allow the carriage to move freely back and forth to the right or the left and prevent any damage to the delicate escapement mechanism inside the typewriter.

Next, to prevent damage to the carriage with respect to the heavy metal frame, use plastic wrap or bubble wrap to ensure that the carriage is roughly centered on the typewriter (or flush on the left side) and can’t move back or forth while being shipped.

Finally, ensure appropriate amounts of packing material around the carriage, the knobs, and the return lever to prevent them from being broken or damaged in shipping. In particular, make sure there isn’t any empty space (or dead space) inside the box or the machine is guaranteed to bounce around and break. The box being dropped accidentally from even a foot or two is enough to either bend or break the heavy frame or destroy the carriage. This sort of damage is often what makes what is otherwise a fully functional typewriter a useless boat anchor.

Thanks in advance for your kind assistance in helping this vintage machine reach me in its best condition!

Warmest regards, name

Video example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNISoY_7g9s Written example: https://johnlewismechanicalantiques.com/packing-instructions/

CaiKleen™ RBR - CAIG by Caig Laboratories, Inc.

via https://reddit.com/user/k1lky/ at How can I cork my platen? And if it's the same than rubber. : r/typewriters

https://shifthappens.site/typewriter/ via [[Marcin Wichary]]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kabel_(typeface)

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/xpe5p1/1959_everest_k2_with_my_dream_font_simplicitas/

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gt5t92/how_much_is_too_much_for_a_vogue_royal_p/

u/Tarcalion via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gtyai7/typewriters_arent_obsolete_now_and_in_the_future/lxrd9zc/

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gu1x3r/olivetti_112_not_found_in_the_twdb/

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gu971q/whos_an_olivetti_expert/

Broad advice on the touch and feel of Olivetti's

It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.

People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.

The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1grn0jx/just_found_an_unmentioned_feature_on_my_sg3/

Suggestion to use "barbecue igniting fluid"! 🤣

And this is where you see how the condition of a machine comes into play when pricing is being considered. A $700 machine has had several hours of cleaning and potential reconditioning, parts, repairs, oiling, and adjusting done. At $700 and given it's age, I'd also want to ask if they've replaced the platen. Compare this with a dirty, old machine that's going to need those same hours of work, attention, parts, and new rubber, to bring it up to par and it's definitely not going to fetch the same price.

And this is exactly what is wrong with 95% of the market: most buyers and sellers have no idea what they've got, much less the condition it's in or the work that it takes to bring these back to life for another 50-75 years. Thus they price their dirty, and rough machines at the same prices as the repair shops thinking they're going to make a mint. Apparently they're all hoping some sucker who doesn't know better will buy it.

Remember: Dante has a special circle of hell for those who buy typewriters for pennies on the dollar and flip them on eBay without doing any work on them.

reply to u/actualwoey at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gqhied/recommendations_for_reliable_new_small_spool_1_58/

You could see if a local repair shop is parting out a machine or has spools that would work for you. iirc the Corona Zephyr, Skyriter, and the later versions of the Corsair all used that smaller spool size, usually described as 1 5/8" or 1 2/3". https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html Once you've got the correct sized spools, you can wind your Amazon ribbon onto them, but you'll likely have to trim it down to fit. (2" spools usually have 16 yards of ribbon while the 1 5/8" accommodate about 12 yards.)

If you can't come up with original metal spools to respool your 1/2" ribbon onto, you can try https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/category-s/12779.htm which will sell you both in one go.

Some other ribbon options: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I've had good luck buying bulk ribbon from both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line.

I've heard some have successfully re-juvenated old ribbon by spraying it (unspooled into a box) with WD-40 or glycerine to re-wet it and then respooling it.

Mr. Churchill's Typewriters by [[Susan Elia Macneal]]

https://www.qsl.net/n1ea/mill_02.ttf

Gerren of the HotRod Typewriter Co. uses a 17" x 13.5" Wool Pressing mat from the Zomoneti Store on Amazon for his typewriter repair set up https://amzn.to/3CkQS4V

The infamous Apple typewriter memo is 40 years old ... by [[Richard Polt]]

https://makerworld.com/en/models/762248#profileId-697034<br /> Remington 5 portable

via https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gkq7ie/3d_printed_ribbon_spool_covers_for_remington_rand/

Smith Corona Vintage Typewriter Margin Rack Alignment Stop Adjustment by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

https://www.classictypewriter.com/

https://www.clicketyclacktypewriters.com/

Rolla typewriter enthusiasts open store for those enchanted by the 'clickety clack' by [[Jonathan Ahl]]

Retired collector turned repair person

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gi9mec/is_it_just_me/

https://www.3dtypewriterparts.com/

https://www.asqde.org/haas-typewriter-atlas.html

https://schriftexperte.de/en/haas-atlas/

https://schriftexperte.de/en/

https://forums.nanowrimo.org/t/typewriter-brigade-the-original-old-school/5600

https://typewriterdatabase.com/img/g17557_111429_1643735948.jpg