Your alcohol is making the old oil and dust fluid again for a while, but without either fully flushing it out or blowing it out with compressed air, the solvent evaporates and the remaining solid oil/dust freezes things up again.
Rubbing alcohol is probably one of the worst degreasers, but people recommend it because most people often have some in their house already. (Depending on the type, it also contains high proportions of water which isn't the best thing to mix with your metal typewriter.)
To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means (be careful for splattering and cover the plastic and painted portions of the machine and surroundings with a rag). This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out.
2-5 flushes can sometimes be required before you've really gotten all the old gunk out of your machine. I often wait several hours or even overnight to test the action after flushing before I re-attach body panels, etc.
If you can acquire a small plastic oiler (see https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/) it can help to minimize the amounts of solvent you're using and the flexible tip will allow you to not only direct the flow of solvent, but create some fluid pressure when you squeeze the bottle.
(Naturally use your degreaser in a well-ventilated space away from open flames and sparks...)
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