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  1. Last 7 days
    1. Drycleaning & Restoration

      Drycleaning & Restoration We offer premier restoration service for luxury brand products. Our team of skilled technicians have years of experience working with prestigious brands such as Hermès, Goyard, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Berluti, and more. We take pride in our ability to restore your luxury products to their former glory.

      We understand the value and sentimental attachment that you have to your luxury items and that these products represent more than just a fashion statement. Our team of experts treat each item with the utmost care, ensuring that every detail is attended to and that the product is returned to you in its original condition.

    1. hand-painted wallets

      Our team of skilled artisans create one-of-a-kind pieces that reflect your unique style and personality, from custom leather jackets to hand-painted wallets

  2. Nov 2024
    1. If you've been dreaming of plunging into this profession, consider the success of Paul Lundy, who took over Bremerton Office Machine Company from nonagenarian Bob Montgomery; or Antony Valoppi, creator of Portland's Type Space, which combines a traditional typewriter shop with a cultural center; or Trevor Brumfield, a young man in his late twenties who has quickly built Dayton's TB Writers Plus into a busy enterprise.
    1. https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/fillers/fil-stik-putty-sticks/

      Putty sticks (aka paint sticks) are good for filling in nicks and dings on furniture.

      These putty sticks and some crayons are also great for restoring the colored index lines on typewriters as well as other colored metal parts and occasionally on some plastic typewriter keys.

      M231-10104 SYY Red<br /> M230-0054 Crimson Rose #SN292<br /> M230-0046 COCONUT, COTTON, BRIE, HEAVY CREAM, SNOWFLAKE <br /> M230-0090 Picket Fence

  3. Oct 2024
    1. Typewriter Basics: Carriage Locks by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Sarah describes having a common spacebar issue when repairing a typewriter, bending the spacebar down which causes the machine not to work/advance as a result when it's put back into the typewriter shell.

      Sarah also shows some type bar benders, but doesn't demonstrate how she (or her father) used them to do the repair.

    1. Royal Strengthen Shift Springs KMM Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      I picked this up from a repair manual, but good to see my reading was correct.

      Forming the tabs on the shift assembly inwards will increase the tension and responsiveness of the shift assembly on older Royal standard typewriters.

    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

    1. Royal KMM KMG Typewriter Feet Spacers Original Smashed Rubber Replaced by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Squished rubber feet spacers on the Royal standard typewriters can cause interfere with the universal bar and when they do, they'll need replacement.

      This is the same sort of interference seen on Olympia SM3s due to their squished/flattened rubber gaskets, though the symptoms are different.


      "Phoenix typewriter. Have a Royal day!" <br /> A slightly different sign off from Duane's usual... :)

    1. Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

      A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I've compiled and consumed over the last six months, so don't be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month of reading and researching.

      Basic Introductory Material

      Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you'll remember where you found the random information you're bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

      Work your way through Sarah Everett's excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      Read Richard Polt's book which is a great overview to the general space:<br /> Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

      Next watch the documentary California Typewriter. Documentary. Gravitas Pictures, 2016. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5966990/. It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you're headed off to.

      Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it.

      Basic restoration advice: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      On colloquial advice for degreasing, cleaning, and oiling manual typewriters https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Repair Manuals

      Create an account on typewriterdatabase.com which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs.

      They also have some openly accessible material like:<br /> * https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php

      Printed manuals: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&contributor=Ted+Munk&page=1&pageSize=50 PDF manuals: https://sellfy.com/twdb

      Ted Munk's website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful * https://munk.org/typecast/

      Richard Polt's list of service manuals, which also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Tools

      In rough order of increasing complexity:

      Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

      Videos

      Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

      While watching a variety of videos is great, as you're doing specific repairs search YouTube and you're likely to find full demos of the repairs you're doing yourself.

      I've compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

      If you're not a good typist or don't have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

      Internships & Apprenticeships

      If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can't spend the time on an internship. You'll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they're parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

      Podcasts

      Some useful Bibliography

      Good luck on your journey!


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gaza5x/learning_typewriter_maintenance_and_repair/

    1. Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

      This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

    1. Sanding and polishing the keys on my Smith-Corona Silent Super. A lesson to all, use foil when using PBlaster to clean, not a rag. It still melts plastic when it soaks through the rag…

      All the videos on YouTube are generally of mechanics who are covering things up for a quick operation (like cleaning slugs) and not for longer cleans. This can be misleading for those who are doing longer term work where the rags need to withstand more liquid or are sitting for longer.

    1. The nuts on the ribbon selector and the ribbon reverse on Royal Quiet De Luxes is a 7/32 inch nut.

    2. Royal Quiet DeLuxe Typewriter Complete Total Body Removal by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Gerren uses a Weaver gunsmith screwdriver set for most of his screwdriver needs. [5:00]

      On the newer QDLs two of the screws for removing the rear plate are accessible from the top underneath the carriage instead of all on the rear.

      The screws for the front body plate can be loosened and don't need to be fully removed to take the body plate off of the machine.

    1. When doing type alignment, Duane Jensen was taught to use an old/used ribbon instead of a new, wet/dark ribbon for better performance in testing. New ribbons don't show the differences as well.

      He's noticed that ribbon from Around the Office are dreadful.

    1. A Mistake of Wrong Fuelling Could Cause Big Damage

      This is why diesel in petrol tanks damages the system and the car stops running A mistake of filling the wrong fuel in the tank of your car can prove lethal if you fail to realise it soon. Fuel is used by mechanical parts of a car to produce energy and run it, so damage is mainly done to the engine and its parts. Always pay attention to fuelling and never take it for granted.

      The problem of not accepting the mistake also makes the problem gigantic. Whenever you get a hint of committing a mistake after filling the wrong fuel, stop persisting with it. Check the possibility, and try to fix it without any delay. In routine, you do not pay attention and start filling the car tank, but if the car is not yours, then be careful.

      Similarly, when you go abroad and do not know about fuel dispenser codes, the possibility of making a mistake increases. It means anything other than routine could lead you to the blunder of the wrong fuel. People in a hurry could do this and keep continuing with the mistake without realising the blunder. Petrol in diesel tank causes erosion of mechanical parts’ surfaces due to high friction.

      Solutions are present, but first, avoid this blunder because the cost could be very high and you may need to change the car or its engine. Petrol engine cars make use of fuel differently, so diesel does not suit its mechanism of producing energy. Petrol burns and gives the energy to pull, but diesel does not burn.

    1. Hot Rod Mercury - Repaired ! Royal Typewriter Made in Japan Not Spacing Troubleshoot and Fix. by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      There was a loose assembly underneath the carriage that was preventing the vibrator from working and the carriage from advancing via typing. Tightening it up fixed the issue completely.

    1. Soderbeck tells us about a recent job that took 40 hours to complete. He ended up charging the customer just $50.

      "Well, I already gave him an estimate," he says with a chuckle. "I'm not gonna change that quote, I've been here too long to do that."

      It seems like an unwritten rule for typewriter repair shops to go way over on time versus pay to repair a typewriter based on an initial quote.

      I've seen at least one other quote like this, but don't think I collected it.

    2. "Business went right to nothing, hardly," he remembers. "As soon as that computer hit the price of under $2,000, that was the end of the typewriter business—80% of the business was gone in three years. When I started there was 27 little shops like this in the Twin Cities, and there was 47 before that."
    3. Vale Typewriter from Ray Vale, who had helmed the stout brick building since it was constructed in 1957.
    4. 11-month typewriter repair program

      In 1974 there were 11-month typewriter repair programs to train typewriter repair technicians.


      Compare this to Philly Typewriter's 4 year internship program: https://hypothes.is/a/LSbZtlboEe-4vtMPIWcTKA

    1. I just got a 1950 version of this KMG this week in medium rough shape too. (My 7th Royal and my 2nd Standard)

      Looks like a Royal KMG with the Henry Dreyfuss glass tombstone keys in Gray Frieze paint. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.KMG.72.bmys

      Mine has some minor carriage issues that I'm hoping clear up with some cleaning. Otherwise it may need some tools and internal repair work and/or parts. If yours is generally working, a good cleaning and oiling should get you going: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Diagram of parts: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg

      Manual of the prior model KMM which preceeded it, so the functionalilty should be almost exactly the same: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf (Royal Standard internals were almost exactly the same from the Ten (1909) through the FP/Empress (1966).)

      Home Study Course in Typewriter Repair and Service: ca. 1959, published by the Typewriter Repair School in Little Falls, New Jersey. Focuses on the Royal KMM among others: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/homestudycourse.pdf

      See also:<br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.royal-repair.manual - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.royal-parts-01.manual

      Searching on YouTube for cleaning and repair advice should help out a lot. Phoenix Typewriter has some solid videos on related models (search also the Royal X (ten), KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, and Empress which are all roughly the same internals with slightly different body styles.)

      If you need some basic typewriter 101, try: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      reply to u/MajesticWear5478 https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g1i440/tips_for_cleaning_and_fixing_a_1949_royal/#lightbox

    1. I’ve currently only fixed the platen and reconnected the space bar. Issue I’m having is the letters are really faint and cut off almost half way through.

      Often after you resurface a platen, it slightly changes the configuration of the platen with respect to the typeface. As a result one usually may need to do three adjustments in a specific order to get things to align properly again. These can definitely be done at home with some patience.

      Usually the order for tweaking is: * Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good). Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. * On Feet adjustment (vertical adjustment so that letters are bright and clear and neither top or bottom of characters are too light/faint) Repair shops will often type /// or a variety of characters with longer ascenders/descenders to make sure that the type is clear from top to bottom. * Motion adjustment (the lower and upper case letters are at the same level with respect to each other) The best way to test this is to type a center character like HHHhhhHHH to see if they line up on the bottom (the last three Hs are usually done with the Shift Lock on to make sure that's properly set).

      You can search YouTube videos for your model (or related models) and these words which may uncover someone doing a similar repair, so you have a better idea of what you're doing and where to make the adjustments.

      Here's Joe Van Cleave describing some of it in one of his early videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0AozF2Jfo0

      The general principles for most typewriters are roughly the same with slight variations depending on whether your machine is a segment shift or a carriage shift. You should roughly be able to puzzle out which screws to adjust on your particular model to get the general outcome you want.

      Related blogposts: * https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/<br /> * https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

      You might find a related repair manual for your machine with more detail and diagrams for these adjustments via the Typewriter Database or on Richard Polt's typewriter site.

      For those not mechanically inclined you may be better off taking it onto a repair shop for a quick adjustment. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html 

      Reply to u/Acethease at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1d76ygx/got_a_as_a_gift_corona_3_recentlyish_and_i_need/

  4. Sep 2024
    1. I twist together two lengths of kevlar fishing line that's 0.4mm diameter and rated for 29kg, so combined roughly 0.8mm diameter and ~58kg pull. This is about the sweet spot imo in terms of thickness, slim enough to fit in small routing holes on mainspring housings and thick enough to get a good sized knot when you tie it. It's also pretty close to the thickness of old sinew drawbands I've replaced. The rated strength is definitely overkill but better over than under. In practise a drawband shouldn't experience more than 750g-1,5kg of pull under normal use.

      u/Koponewt aka Pelicram's advice for using fishing line to replace drawbands.

    1. A free program allows you to tinker with it to make it do what you want (or cease to do something you dislike). Tinkering with software may sound ridiculous if you are accustomed to proprietary software as a sealed box, but in the Free World it's a common thing to do, and a good way to learn programming. Even the traditional American pastime of tinkering with cars is obstructed because cars now contain nonfree software.
    1. delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.

      Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.

      Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.

    1. Royal Futura 800 Typewriter Plastic Key Top White Crud Removal Cleaning Servicing by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For the white, crusty out gassing (or off gassing) on plastic typewriter keys, Duane recommends a round or two of Simple Green with a stiff bristle brush. Follow this up with a scrub down using WD-40 to displace the water from the Simple Green and then follow up with denatured alcohol, which is safe on plastics, and a wipe down with a rag to dry.

    1. Joe Van Cleave hypothesizes that the slightly blurry and/or ghosting letters on typewriters may be the result of the typebar just hitting the typing guide and moving slightly as they do thereby creating issues with the type clarity.

      https://youtu.be/GpLpTkhSGWc?si=MFmshF-LPPa1CyUP&t=1190

  5. Aug 2024
    1. Colloquial repair solutions for hard platens: <br /> - use backing sheet(s) - light sanding and cleaning with organic solvents - Brake Fluid soaking for an hour followed by drying time (see also: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html) - Rubber Renue https://mgchemicals.com/products/electronics-maintenance/specialized-cleaners/rubber-renue/ - Methyl salicylate and alcohol mixture - Sanding and/or lathing and resurfacing with heat shrink tubing and/or by bicycle inner tube

      Actual repair/restoration/recovery:<br /> - J. J. Short Associates, Inc. https://www.jjshort.com/typewriter-platen-repair.php

      see colloquial advice at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ewb36f/rubber_renue_to_soften_platens/

    2. This has been an ongoing "philosophers stone" in the repair community for a long time. Hard platens are the result of the rubber losing its moisture, there's virtually no way to fix that long term. Brake fluid, rubber renew, even the wintergreen oil trick only temporarily soften platens/feeds. They will absolutely go back to their former state after a time. (1-2 months) You can sand the exterior and clean with organic solvents to restore grip and improve the original platen, but recovery is really the only long term fix. *There's a ton of back and forth about the sanding method, particularly from the old timers being salty about it. But I have seen HUNDREDS of old platens in machines that have absolutely been sanded by repair folks back in the day, so there's definitely value in the process.
    1. The case FOR WD-40 use in typewriters by [[Thom Cholowski]] in Antique Typewriter Maintenance Group

      Some thorough colloquial and unreferenced, but reasonably scientific advice about the use of WD-40 to clean typewriters, particularly with respect to water displacement.

      Once used for cleaning typewriter internals, WD-40 needs to be flushed out with kerosene or naphtha.

    1. Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

      Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

      Basic Tools

      • screwdriver sets
        • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
        • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
        • long reach screwdriver
        • magnetic screwdriver
        • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
        • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
        • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
        • grab hooks
      • pliers
        • standard needle nose pliers
        • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
        • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
        • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
      • Mechanics' wrench set
        • prefer cast ones
        • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
        • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
      • Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
      • Tweezers
      • Blowtorches
        • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
        • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
        • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
      • Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
        • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
      • MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
      • strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
      • knife (butter knife)
        • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
      • flashlight (simple is fine)
      • marker (Sharpie)
        • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
      • hammer
      • retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
      • Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
      • Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

      Intermediate Tools

      • segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
      • drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
      • carpenter's pencil for marking

      Advanced/Specialty tools

      • t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
      • 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
      • peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
      • wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
      • eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
      • files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

      Very specialized

      • Type slug solder jig or solder guide
      • keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
      • multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

      Honorable mentions

      • center punch for drilling points and new screws
      • dental mirror for looking into machines
      • spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

      Q&A

      air compressors are useful for cleaning

      Don't damage screws on older machines.

      US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

      3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

    1. Common Typewriter Problems and Fixes

      A short pictorial primer for quick repairs of many common typewriter problems including:<br /> - stripping a typewriter<br /> - cleaning and oiling - carriage not moving<br /> - ribbon reverse not working<br /> - bell not working - characters out of alignment<br /> - inconsistent margin<br /> - space bar jumping/inconsistent

  6. Jul 2024
    1. Royal Quiet De Luxe Magic Margin Stuck Won't Slide Clean Flush Restore Operation of Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      50+ year old oil can cause parts of a typewriter to seize and not work properly. Hitting it with some heavy degreaser (lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, etc.) and some compressed air as well as getting the parts moving will help clean these parts out.

    2. Excess oil on a typewriter can be cleaned up with both air and a clean rag.

    3. Fun tip:

      Spraying down a typewriter body and painted portions with oil before treating with lacquer thinner will help to prevent the etching of painted portions which might be splashed during the cleaning process.

      It may help to spread the oil out with a cloth or by hand, particularly on the rulers.

    1. Royal KMM FPE HH KH 10 T1 B64 Typewriter Ribbon Install Rewind Respool Replace by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (KMM, FPE, HH, KH, etc) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse.

      The function of the mechanism is fairly similar to that of the Remington, but the mechanism is on the spool itself rather than on the spindle.

      If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these metal spools: https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/6N064-Royal-Standard-Electric-Ribbon-64-p/6n064.htm

    1. Based on the labels on typewriter ribbon donated by Octavia Butler, she got her ribbon from Office Machines Incorporated which had locations at 543 S. Spring Street, Los Angeles, CA and 433 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, CA.

      via https://anacostia.si.edu/collection/object/acm_2004.0007.0002

    1. ribbon carrier (vibrator) not moving

      reply to u/67comet at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e4hu0s/smith_corona_electra_120_ribbon_carrier_not_moving/

      That piece is called a ribbon vibrator which moves the ribbon up and down. They generally operate on gravity and as a result they need to be clean and free from oil, gunk, hair, dust, etc. Usually they slide up and down freely. There's a colloquial saying in the typewriter space that "A typewriter isn't really broken unless it's clean and broken."

      Occasionally ribbon vibrators can become bent which makes them inoperable and this can be remedied with some light forming (bending) with an appropriate screwdriver or needle nosed plier. You can search YouTube and you'll find a variety of videos for cleaning and forming these back into shape so that they slide cleanly.

      As for your missing 1/! slug, it's unlikely that you'll find someone selling just the slug itself and then you'll need to solder it on perfectly and/or adjust it slightly with appropriate tools to get the right alignment. Far better is to check around with repair shops that might have the same or similar machines which they're parting out and then you could request one. Your best bet is to purchase the entire typebar and slug assembly from a donor machine which you can then swap out into your machine and skip the soldering. For this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFMu6dUROGA can give you tips.

      To find donor machines, try repair shops on this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

    1. Part 4: COMPLETE Olympia SM3 Service and Repair Series: STICKY RIBBON LIFTER by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      The universal bar lifts the ribbon vibrator.

      Adjustment points to adjust the ribbon lift heights for issues with red/black on bichrome use.

      Maximum travel of the universal bar adjustment screws on crossbar that attaches to springs. timestamp 5:29

      Screws at the ends of the cross bar which are attached to the key springs can be adjusted slightly to provide for heavier or lighter touch control. Timestamp 6:07

    1. What are the must have tools for a maintenance of a typewriter, some tools you recommend, some that make maintenance a little bit easier

      reply to u/riatai69 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e3c0zy/tools_for_a_deep_maintenance/

      You can do a tremendous amount with just a few things:

      • thin Philips screwdriver with a small magnet to hold/catch screws
      • small adjustable wrench
      • bottle of Simple Green (or other mild cleaner)
      • can of mineral spirits (naphtha, paint thinner, varnish remover, PB B'laster etc.) with a standard/cheap restaurant refillable ketchup/mustard squeeze bottle
      • Toothbrush (and/or brass bristle brush)
      • canned air
      • a piece of string (useful for reattaching some pieces without more specialized tools, and particularly for reattaching springs)
      • light machine oil (gun or sewing machine) for very lightly oiling your carriage rails
      • YouTube for watching lots of typewriter repair videos

      If you want to go higher end and do a lot more

      • a set of spring hooks with push/pull ends
      • full set of small wrenches
      • more custom screw drivers
      • a nice thick felt pad (approx 15" x 15" x 1/2"+ for having a place to sit your typewriter on without scratching it up)
      • a small lazy susan big enough to set your typewriter on to more easily manipulate it
      • air compressor (to replace your canned air)
      • bins and trays for storing typewriter parts and screws while you're taking them apart and putting back together
      • a set up for spraying down/washing out typewriters (DIY ideas include paint roller trays or plastic milk crates as a base and plastic bins for catching the run off)
      • wiping cloths or similar cloth rags for wiping things down

      If you want to go crazy

      • Keyring pliers
      • set up for respooling ribbon from 330+ yard spools
      • The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible https://typewriterrepairbible.com/ as well as various other repair manuals and all the tools listed within them.
      • storage shelving for 100+ typewriters
      • a small collection of machines for parting out
      • an 800+ square foot workshop space
      • a publisher for you book about typewriters

      When you're really ready for full-on insanity

    1. Adjustment screw for the Olympia SM3 on feet shift set up is just to the side of the ribbon spool/cup. Gerren indicates that he's never been able to do this adjustment properly with the typewriter body on, so it's much easier to do with it off.

      The bottom adjustment point (through the side of the frame) allows one to set the base line for the on foot for the lower case letters while the top one sets the upper case.


      Gerren credits Phoenix Typewriter for most of the material he's learned in terms of fixing typewriters.

      Bill at Philly Typewriter has an apprentice program, but there aren't many shops that do this. (Gerren makes a joke that it's free (child) labor.)


      Trip point adjustments

      The trip point is the point at which the typebar trips the movement of the escapement.

      The adjustment point for it is reachable by removing the small protecting plate on the bottom at the back of the machine. The escapement trigger is just underneath it.

      The lower one (top if the machine is upside down) is for the lower case; the top one is for the upper case.

      Screwing the screw in will cause the trip to occur sooner.


      Spacebar adjustment mechanisms [13:00]

      There are two, one set in the front of the bottom of the typewriter and two screws in the back, right near the escapement.

      If the spacebar is hit too many times while cleaning and repairing, the spacebar won't work properly and will need some minor adjustment when the body is put back on.


      He shows at the end how to remove the keytops of the individual keys.


      The final check is the shift lock mechanism to make sure its aligned properly.

    1. Olympia SM3 (1/2/4/5/7) Silent Return Spring Fix Part 5: Complete Olympia Service and Repair Series by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Removal of SM3 carriage with one screw and bolt.

      Repairing silent return spring (also works for Hermes and other European models) which operates via friction. American models don't have this sort of mechanism, so one will always get the zipper sound moving the carriage back.

    1. The Amazing Floating Olympia by [[Michael P. Clemens]] aka clickthing

      Michael recommends using 1/4" flat bibb washers with 9/16" OD to replace the rubber washers on the Olympia SM3, which notoriously are squished and need replacement. The general symptom is that the carriage sits low on the machine and scrapes or hangs on the sides of the body beneath it.

  7. Jun 2024
    1. Joe Van Cleave makes the interesting observation that while a hobbyist will only take a typewriter apart as much as is necessary to fix the issue at hand, the professional repair person will strip it all down and clean everything out for the coming 50 years to prevent it from coming back to them for something else in the near future thus costing more time, effort, and potential damage to their reputation.

    2. Typewriter Line Lock Repair by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

    1. Five Fairly Fun Fixes For Free by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Advice for typewriter ribbon printing, especially as silk ribbons age and more quickly gunk up the loops or letters like "e" or "a". Nylon ribbon and a thin plastic backing sheet can be helpfu.

      Use of bookbinder's glue on fabric of typewriter cases, then layers of shoe polish.

      General advice for replacing feet on typewriter cases.

      Small incremental improvements to your typewriter can be easier and more sustainable than trying to do everything at once.

    1. I dont know if im hitting too hard or not. ( second image is the backup paper behind the actual one)

      If you've got heavy impressions going to the level of the backing sheet or things like your period cutting holes directly through your paper, then it's not really so much an issue of typing too hard, but your carriage is slightly out of alignment with respect to your type bars.

      Your typeface shouldn't actually hit the platen when pressed (or held forward), but should just kiss the ribbon which then places the imprint onto the paper. Holding your typeslug forward against the type guide you should have just enough space to slip a piece of paper between your slug and the platen. If there isn't a tiny bit of space, your typeface will chew up your ribbon and paper over time. The typing thunk sound that typewriters make isn't the slug hitting the platen (aka cylinder), but the typebar hitting the anvil (aka ring).

      The proper adjustment for fixing this is thus commonly called a ring and cylinder adjustment and how it's effected depends on whether you have a segment shift or a carriage shift machine. On many machines it requires adjusting two screws on either side of the machine. It changes the distance of platen from typeface and can prevent your making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good. Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. Searching YouTube for your make/model (or similar models) will usually show you the adjustment you'll need to make to remedy these problems.

      See also: https://hypothes.is/a/AegRziHnEe-Ud_stVcPQLA

      Reply to u/Bitter_Rent_141 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dnnh2n/is_this_normal/

    1. Test typing and adjustments

      • Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good) [Interestingly Dul doesn't mention this particular adjustment]
      • evenness of the letters (on feet)
      • alignment between capital and lower case (motion)
      • margin consistency
      • line scale height
      • adjust escapement "so that it's moving the proper distance both up and down to prevent skipping or missing spaces"
      • adjust the height of the ribbon, this is done to make sure the entire letter is printed (and presumably so the bichrome is properly usable when available)
    2. How A Rusty 1930s Royal Typewriter Is Professionally Restored | Refurbished | Insider

      Done by Lucas Dul. Some particularly interesting portions on adjustments after restoration. He generally touches on the order of adjustments he makes, but in brief rather than completely.

    1. Typically, if you can't afford to make the repair, you definitely can't afford to skip the repair either.
    1. Also are the key caps supposed to be that yellow or is that from cigarettes.

      For yellowed glass keys on typewriters, there's usually a key top covered by a piece of paper with the key glyph on it which is sandwiched in with a small piece of glass and a metal ring that holds it down with several metal tabs underneath the key to hold it all in place. There are custom keyring pliers for quickly removing and replacing the papers which needs care not to crack the glass. Otherwise you can manually bend the metal tabs on all your key rings to remove them and replace the papers. (This is generally a LOT of work either way.) See: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1csni4d/neat_find_on_clients_kmg/

      I prefer the yellowed patina of the older key papers, so I tend to leave them versus spending the time and effort to replace them.

  8. May 2024
    1. To be more specific on solvents for beginners, potentially try mineral spirits (white spirit in UK), paint thinner, naphtha (lighter fluid), kerosene, varnish remover, PB B'laster, or carburetor or brake cleaner. Be careful as many of these are flammable and some can remove paint or decals; use all of them in a well ventilated area. You may see some recommend household variations of alcohol, but these do contain water and generally aren't very effective solvents for the types of oil/grease/dust you'll probably want to remove; professional typewriter repair shops would not use alcohol on a machine. And for those in the back, no one but a psychopath would use WD-40 on a machine's internals.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjumGF9NFE8 is a pretty solid cleaning primer. Searching YouTube will uncover some potential additional advice in addition to what you can find at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      Good luck. That's a lovely machine!

    1. Don't feel bad. Your not the only one. This misconception has been going on for years simply because no typewriter repairman has stood up and said " Now wait a minute! " The collectors have done all the talking and publishing while the typewriter man isn't heard. Consequently, it's the big typewriter collectors that are heard. They never talk about how many times they had to reclean a machine. They often have several and may only use 1 or 2. Also there isn't that many of us real typewriter repairman left to do the talking.

      Due to the nature of online communication, it may often be the case that typewriter collectors and their colloquial advice may drown out the more experienced and professional typewriter repair people.

    2. Most typewriter shops did not use alcohol as it was ineffective and contained water. Industrial alcohols contained keytones and acetones that will melt plastic and remove paint.

      Solvents for typewriters used in repair shops: - White mineral spirits with a squeeze bottle. (Sometimes also called Varsol, Stoddard's Formula, and possibly Inhibisol) - Naphtha (aka lighter fluid; used in Zippo lighters, and frequently seen in Europe). PB B'laster is essentially pressurized naphtha in a can. - Auto carb and brake cleaners, usually pressurized in a can. These usually have acetone in them and will melt plastic. Will remove WD-40 if accidentally used on a typewriter.

      For cleaning typeslugs, one can use naphtha or mineral spirits with a brass bristle brush.

      For platen cleaning try mineral spirits or fedron.

      Only oil the carriage rails for the bearings or trucks.

      (This is all colloquial advice, albeit with experience, so check specific facts about what certain products contain.)

    3. You will notice that manual was printed in 1920. Gas was the only cleaner available then. In just one more year in 1921 Stoddards Formula was invented (Varsol) for the dry cleaning business. Everything changed then and Varsol was the cleaner of choice.

      should find a better reference

    1. Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/


      People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.

    1. These were sometimes used to assist in the learning of touch typing. Clients would have their local repair person install these little black paper circles to cover the letters so they wouldn't be tempted to stare at the keyboard. Fairly rare, I've not seen them used on any of the 500+ machines I've serviced in the past 7 or so years. There were also dedicated blank caps designed to go over the keytops that were used, those are much more common than the blackout paper method.
    2. Even with keyring pliers and the skill to use them, the blackout paper method is a lengthy one.

      Keyring pliers are used to remove the metal rings off of both circular and tombstone glass typewriter keys so that the legends can be replaced or even covered over with black paper circles for teaching or learning typing. They take some practice and skill to use, but speed up the replacement of legends significantly.

    1. Most Smith-Coronas in the 40s and 50s have similar ribbon set ups. Hopefully this photo and description will help:

      (Alt Text) Smith-Corona typewriter ribbon thread sample. A view into the type basket with the hood of the typewriter raised showing the ribbon coming out of a spool on the left, through a black ribbon guide (which actuates the autoswitch when the eyelet at the end of a spool gets stuck between it and the spool) next to the spool cup, and then into the two metal guides of the ribbon vibrator on either side of the the typing point. A silver pen's tip is pointing to the ribbon guide next to the spool cup at about the point where an eyelet clipped onto the middle of the end of a length of a ribbon would trip the ribbon auto switch.

      If your ribbon auto-switch isn't working one can usually switch the direction manually with the ribbon reverse lever usually found on the front left side of most machines.

      To speed up changing the ribbon on many machines, it can often help to switch the color selector to the red setting and then simultaneously press the G and H keys gently so that they're stuck together almost at the typing point which will raise the ribbon vibrator and make accessing the slots for threading the ribbon easier. Once the ribbon is installed, release the G and H typebars and select the correct color setting for the portion of the ribbon you want to use.

    1. The last adjustment I needed to make is sometimes called ring and cylinder. It moves the platen closer or further from the typebars. I think the rubber on the platen over time dried and shrunk a bit. I used this adjustment to move the platen closer in order to get a better type imprint. (note: you have to loosen two screws on each side of the carriage [4 screws] in the next photo before making this adjustment.)