Chuck Theile, Acme Typewriter Service and Restoration, South Lyon, MI. Machines can be dropped off at 116b N. Lafayette, South Lyon, MI. A customer writes: "They accept all makes and models for repair. The phone number there is 248-486-5205 or you can call the repairman direct (Chuck Theile) at 248-455-6778." E-mail qwertyrepair@yahoo.com. Read a story about him here and another here. "I've been repairing typers and other office equipment for nearly 4 decades. Seeing a recent resurgence in the poularity of typewriters is very gratifying. Young people in particular seem to be rediscovering these historic machines and I'm happy to be able to provide a service that's not readily available anymore.  Primarily serving the Wayne, Oakland, Washtenaw and Livingston County areas, arrangements can be made for service anywhere. I've been able to repair nearly 100% of the machines brought to me. Including many dating back to the early 1900's. Don't give up or throw it away before you let me have a go at it!"

Chuck TheileYup, I don't accept a box of parts anymore.

Hiten JoshiI do have some sympathy. If I had to ship my Datsun two hundred miles to the nearest dealer for a tune up then I’d have a go first too.

PSA. Analogy: “Hi Mr. Mechanic! Here’s my ‘72 Datsun. I’d like you to give it a tune up. Oh, by the way, I’m not a mechanic but I pulled out the steering column and took apart the starter. Here are the parts in this bag” (When a client takes apart their machine, got in way over their head and wants me to fix their mistakes. Please… I appreciate you’re experimenting, but this is a huge nightmare to me. I’ve passed on several of these machines.)

Years ago I made up a rule..."Do not remove anything from a typewriter without recognizing that it will take from two to twenty five times as long to re-attach it"

there's not enough full teardown to justify a waitlist, usually under 10 a year for intense restoration. Most of my work is always thorough otherwise!

If there is enough room (at least 1.2mm), I use micro paracord to replace drawbands. It has no flex or stretch, can have its knot sealed with a little heat, is tested to 100lbs, and is pretty cheap for more than you’ll probably ever need. I have used Atwood micro cord purchased from Amazon for my projects.

I just talked to Bill at Philly Typewriter and he said he uses Lustember Nylon String .8mm.

I twist together two lengths of kevlar fishing line that's 0.4mm diameter and rated for 29kg, so combined roughly 0.8mm diameter and ~58kg pull. This is about the sweet spot imo in terms of thickness, slim enough to fit in small routing holes on mainspring housings and thick enough to get a good sized knot when you tie it. It's also pretty close to the thickness of old sinew drawbands I've replaced. The rated strength is definitely overkill but better over than under. In practise a drawband shouldn't experience more than 750g-1,5kg of pull under normal use.

Duane Jensen, J.C. Business Machines, 26th St. & Union Hills, Phoenix, AZ. 602-992-7611. M-F 9-4, but call first. "We fix business machines, including all typewriters. Manual portable, manual uprights, antique or vintage typewriters. We carry every typewriter ribbon manufactured. Basic cleaning / tune up is between $38.00 - 48.00 (walk in). On-site service. Basic repair / clean $68.00 - 88.00." Read a story about an experience with Mr. Jensen here. Website: http://www.phoenixtypewriter.com/

This is a persistent myth. Tolerance has nothing to do with it -- even in high-precision machine tools machined to within a thousandth of an inch, oil is necessary to reduce sliding friction and prevent wear. (In fact, super-flat bearing surfaces will even have deliberate channels cut to allow oil to stick.) Review some old service manuals and you'll find detailed lubrication instructions. This old Remington manual, for example, has a chart at the end specifying four different types of oil for different parts of the mechanism; this Typewriter Repair Training Course describes several methods for lubricating entire machines; and this Army manual suggests basically hosing the machine down with light oil. I suspect many people get the impression that oil is bad because very old oils, before the invention of modern synthetic oils and greases, tend to gum up into a sticky paste as they oxidize and separate over time. (Some pre-WWII greases were based on animal fat, and would go rancid!) Combine that with fifty years of cat hair and dust and the machine seizes up entirely. Modern synthetic light oils and greases should last much longer.

I speak from my experience on Olympia typewriters, and my engineers degree says the same: The most inner portion is not intended to recurve. Main springs wind in one direction, all the way. In this status, it's not usable. But fear not, you can rescue it. I rescued a main spring that had the inner connector broken off. Main springs (like all springs) tend to be very tough steel. You can simply break the faulty portion off. Then, you clamp the new end in grip pliers that double as a grip and a heat sink. A vice will do the same, but will be very finicky with the narrow curvature of the spring. Let that piece of the spring that you intend to bend into your new connector peek out of the pliers. Get a blow torch and heat that tiny piece to a bright red glow, then bend it one-third of the intended bend. Heat again, bend again, and once again. And now comes the most important part, the annealing: Take the spring out of the heat sink. Carefully apply heat to the new connector and the first tiny piece of the spring with your blow torch. You want to warm the connector, the bend and approximately 5mm or ¼ inch of the untouched spring. Don't allow it to glow. It may only make slight orange traces in the flame, but no more. Pull the flame away slowly, don't let it crash cool, don't blow on it, don't put it in water. Don't burn your fingers in the process. Your main spring is shorter now, but it will work just fine. Welcome to the world of typewriter blacksmiths.

On some typewriters, there is a feature called the End Of Line Lock which has this effect on the key action. Its purpose is to prevent inadvertent typing when the carriage is at the right margin. It is a bar across the width that prevents the links from going through their whole range. When that lock is stuck has the effect you are seeing at every position. Now, in this case it may not be stuck by dirt or bent parts but instead by the lack of its return spring. So, inspect the action until you understand how it works on this tw (It's triggered by a part on the carriage hitting the right margin stop, which causes that bar to move into position to block the type linkages.) and look for a place where a return spring might be missing or disconnected. Fix that. This might not be your actual problem but it is the most likely.

Mr. Montgomery died in September 2018, at age 96.

Sometimes Mr. Montgomery would partly disassemble a machine and leave it on Lundy’s bench — a test, a puzzle, a method of teaching as old as apprenticeship itself.

One Sunday morning in 2014, he opened The Seattle Times and found a feature story about Bob Montgomery, age 92, known to friends, customers and locals simply as Mr. Montgomery. The article read like an obituary for a vanishing trade — fixing typewriters — suggesting that when Mr. Montgomery went, seven decades of expertise would vanish into the digital ether.

There were at least two different mechanisms that S-C used to regulate the Power Space and I am unfamiliar with one of them. Start by taking off the bottom panel so you can see what's going on. Operate the power space while watching what is moving and then you should be able to understand what's involved. The system That i know switches out the regular escapement regulation (the dogs activated by key and spacebar linkages) for an independent one wherein the dogs are instead controlled by a fat rubber finger that gets diddled by a yoke that is powered by the otherwise free motion of the carriage. That's when it is working. Now, tho, it's not right. Most common fault is with the pivot for that linkage. See if that yoke feels sloppy. There is a white plastic screw with a divot in the inner end to hold and allow adjustment of the bearing of the yoke. That pivot screw is threaded through a hole in the frame and locked with a metal locknut and the thing loosens over the decades, allowing slop in controlling the dogs. If you're lucky the threads can be coaxed into holding a fresh adjustment. Do not force or overtighten it. Incidentally, the speed of the Power Space action can be adjusted by the position of that yoke hitting the rubber finger; that should not need adjustment, but keep it in mind. Your cause could be something else, but the normal operation of the escapement working with the keys and spacebar indicates that the escapement is basically OK. Cleaning never hurts, though.

Does it feel like the typebars are catching in the guide, or something binding deeper in the machine? If it's the guide (this is going to sound crazy), grasp the top of the typebar and sort of wiggle it side to side in the segment. Not overly forceful as you don't want to bend the segment slots, but just enough to allow the spring steel to realign. Test, and adjust if needed. It sounds kind of unhinged, but this is the fix for most American made machines that have bars getting stuck in the guide. I've done this with Royals, Coronas, and Underwoods in front of clients before and they look at me like I'm an idiot wizard. Ha If the top of the bar is seriously bent this won't work and you'll need a repair person to use some side alignment pliers, but if the bar is just tweaked it usually works very well with a bit of practice. My unsubstantiated belief of why this occurs is US companies using the same grade(if not the same company) of steel in their bars that tend to be a little softer than their European competitors. *You DON'T want to try this with an Olympia or other German made machines. 😅 If it's coming from deeper in the machine, check the linkages to make sure they're not tweaked and binding against each other. Hope this helps!

$75 an hour for cleaning and repair. Additional fees if parts are needed

you can adjust the strike of individual typebars by either filing or peening the ring-stop tab, file to hit harder & peen to lighten it. for your situation, you will want to file the ring-stop down a bit; make sure to tilt the machine up(or on its side) so the debris created doesn’t fall down into the pivot segment, then blow the area out with compressed air. if you go to Hobby Lobby or an RC model shop, you should be able to get a cheap set of needle files which will do the job; follow up with 600-800 grit sandpaper to remove burrs

roller pliers are for adjusting the height of individual letters(increasing the arc to lower & decreasing arc to raise, which in extreme case can then require adjustment of the slug to put it ‘square’ again relative to the platen) adjusting the strike for most models is done by either filing or peening the ring-stop tab near the base of the typebar(as is the case for OP’s smith corona)

Very sad to report that Jerry Wallace, my typewriter maintenance and repairman passed away last year. This news is new to me since I lost contact with him when he retired and moved to Northern California. What a loss to the typewriter community. I used to take my typewriters to Jerry to fix and polish up at his Salinas home repair shop.

We recommend people come to our shop and type. We charge $5 an hour or you can look into our rental programs. We have a lot of people come in just to hang out and type. No plans on actually owning one, and that's fine with us. Come in, play, leave without the 10-30 pounds of metal with you lol. We also sell and service machine. Prices vary some. But all our machine have a 60 day guarantee from date of purchase. We do ship machines as well if you find something on our website that you like. Assuming you aren't near the Dayton Ohio area.

At our shop we know that we'll age out. Everyone does. To seed the typewriter field we have a 12 week apprentice training program. Hopefully a few get the repair mojo and open up their own shop. Or just become more adept at the hobby. I can only hope once the time comes we have someone willing.

Reese Electronics on Westwood Blvd in Los Angeles. Helmut was a mechanical engineer for Olivetti.

Ken Alexander worked for 20 years at California Typewriter as the shop’s principal technician on manual typewriters. But these days he’s working three days a week at Berkeley Typewriter, “though that number will likely go up,” he said.

Tom Furrier, who owns the Cambridge Typewriter Company in Massachusetts, has sold several typewriters to Mr. Cidoni and said that high school and college students have become a staple of his business.

Joe Banuelos, its third owner, has run the shop for nearly twenty years. Joe’s brother, Jesse Banuelos, who works as a typewriter technician at the store

Herbert Permillion, who runs California Typewriter Company on San Pablo Avenue, said he was also at a loss to explain the trend.  “I’m almost in awe to some extent, but then I can sort of understand that some people tend to reach back and some people want things a little simpler.”

California Typewriter Company was opened as California Typewriter on Shattuck Avenue by  Glenn Tuttle in 1949. Permillion bought the shop in 1981 from its second owner, Joseph Mundy, at its second location on University and moved it to its current location on San Pablo in 1986.

A fascination with vintage typewriters also accounts for the recent rise in sales, said Joe. In particular, people in Japan are buying typewriters built in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. The store will charge $250 to repair a classic Olivetti, but that machine can be resold for $1,000 in Japan, said Joe. “They buy them because they are antique. There’s a big demand because they are part of American history.”

Event by Indy Type Shop, Siren Hand and 2 others2621 Shelby St, Indianapolis, IN, United States, Indiana 46203Duration: 9 hrPublic  · Anyone on or off Facebook14 MAY | 11a-8p | GRAND OPENING!2621 Shelby Street, Indianapolis 46203Indy Type Shop opens its doors for regular business hours, starting 11am May 14th.