921 Matching Annotations
  1. Last 7 days
    1. reply to u/Jbhusker at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hk15pf/the_frenzy_continues_where_does_it_end/ on an old and rough looking Underwood No. 3 from 1927

      The shipping price is suspicious as even Shopgoodwill wouldn't ship it for that low. I do notice some online sellers playing games between machine pricing and shipping. They'll often price a machine lower than "market" and then make up for it with an astronomical shipping price. This example seems to have gone the other way, which may help some novice typewriter purchasers who wouldn't understand that this is a 30# machine.

      What's going on in this example does present some interesting analysis of the current market.

      Possibilities driving the price here: - Week before Christmas and someone is burning spare cash on a decorative/nostalgic present at the last minute. (I've noticed prices on everything going up in the last two months at a greater than usual clip. I suspect things will come crashing down a bit after the New Year.) - It was photographed well. - Included a video of it actually typing as proof that it "works". - It has the look of having been cleaned up despite the look of old patina which was left to make the machine show its age. Look at the exterior screws which appear cleaned/refinished while portions of the exterior don't. In fact, the underlying servicer (Adam of Brooksaw Antiques) seems to specialize in servicing machines to working order but leaving lots of age and patina on them almost as if they're being aged up on purpose. They've got lots of examples on a variety of socials as well as presences on Etsy and Ebay, which speaks to some level of experience. Given the appearance of experience here, I'd bet the machine shows up in the condition it was shipped. - "New ink" decreases the stress of the buyer on finding it themself (potentially a $30-50 value to the customer) and it only cost the seller $2, because I'm dead certain they bought it in bulk. - The eBay reviews of this shop are stunning over 931 items. The lowest is a 4.9 out of 5, which I'm guessing is someone dinging them on shipping price from an earlier sale where they had more realistic shipping numbers on large standards. - "Military Sand" may possibly have been misinterpreted as this being a mill. It is a great marketing name for the color in any case. - I would guess that the purchaser is buying this as a single showpiece for nostalgia's sake. They're getting the bonus that it works. (Like Kirk, I'm not a big fan of the refurb paint on these.) - Its the week before Christmas...

    1. reply to u/Rocky__1927 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hirzo5/remington_premier/

      As Ted Munk has commented on these before, rare is a reach. They're uncommon primarily because they didn't manufacture as many of these as they did of the American Quiet-Riters (or Office- or Letter-Riters). I would suspect it's stamped as made in Great Britain (though actually made in Scotland) after American manufacture moved there in the late 50s/early 60s where they only made them for a short time before switching over to more plastic bodied machines. Probably has a serial number starting with ERP on the frame near the ribbon cup. It's essentially a Quiet-Riter made in Scotland with smooth paint rather than crinkle. Surely some of the manufacturing process and materials will be slightly different/cheaper.

      There may be a completist Remington collector who might pay over $100 for it, but I wouldn't think you'd have an easy time getting over $75 for this unless it's in excellent/serviced condition, particularly when ubiquitous QRs with sturdier cases can be had for $10-25 in similar condition.

    1. ELEMENTARY TYPING <br /> via Periscope Film #15494

      Elementary Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Periscope Film, #15494, 1971. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdyoPu_ASw.<br /> running time: 00:12:06

      Produced by Moreland-Latchford Productions, Ltd this informational film from 1971 titled “Elementary Typing” teaches the basics of becoming a good typist. The film features a manual Typemaster, a trade name used by Underwood as far back as the 1930s. This version of the machine featured both red and black ribbons. An electric version is seen at 9:00.

      The film is broken down into different sections that focus on different elements of typing from the rhythmic beat of typing to optimal hand positioning as well as how to set up a typewriter. “Elementary Typing” is part of a larger film series related to the art of typing with other titles including “Posture and the Keyboard,” “First Step Typing,” “Machine Techniques,” and “Remedial Typing.” Advisors for the creation of the film include James Treliving Commercial Coordinator North York Board of Education, J.T. Albani East York Board of Education, Sheila Wright Etobicoke Board of Education, and Ronald Thelander Director of Audio-Visual Aids Metropolitan Separate School Board, Toronto. In addition, the film was directed by Rod Maxwell and written by Robert Browning and featured Alex Veltman as the cameraman, Carl Connell as editor, Joe Hayward as production head, and James McCormick as executive producer.

      Pink illustrated typewriter on navy blue background (0:09). Outline of topics covered (0:17). A: early rhythm and reading – metronome and hands typing in the background (0:22). Aerial view of hands typing on an 197X Underwood Typemaster model typewriter (0:42). Camera pans words typed on a page (1:27). Close-up of letters being printed onto a page (1:36). Woman sitting at desk typing quickly (2:24). B: Paper Insertion – close-up of typewriter and hand setting the paper guide at the correct place on the paper table (2:35). Explanation of correct form and technique for holding and inserting paper (2:58-4:23). Explanation of paper removal (4:26). Badminton player returning various shots (4:41). Close-up of hands on the typewriter emphasizing the art of positioning (5:07). C: The Shift – explanation of the shift key (5:15-6:30). D: The Carriage Return – close-up of the device (6:32). The woman types and uses the carriage return (6:46-9:00). The Electric Typewriter – comparison between 197X Underwood Type Master manual model and Underwood 765 Type Master electric model typewriter (9:04). Difference between typing strategies (10:03). Benefits of using an electric machine (10:20). Closing credits (11:35).

    1. reply to u/Novembree at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hfncyz/had_a_typewriter_for_awhile_could_use_help/

      Welcome to the Royal KMM club! Seems like lots of these have been posted in the last day including one by u/betternatured and another by u/the-other-gusta along with a very similar Royal KMG by u/Jacki-san.

      The serial number puts yours down as a KMM with an 11 inch platen manufactured in 1945. Cross reference: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

      These were really popular and ubiquitous, standard (large desktop) typewriters in the mid-century that were the workhorse of many offices. Because they were so common and so heavy, they only go for $5-25 in the used market in either unknown or marginal condition. If they're cleaned up and well-serviced they can go for more with a cap of around $300-400 depending on the level of restoration. Some with special features (like special typefaces) or provenance may go for more.

      The Royal KMM was known to have been used by writers including: John Ashberry, Harry Ashmore, Russell Baker, Ray Bradbury, Richard Bratigan, Richard Brooks, Pearl S. Buck, Johnny Carson, Norman Corwin, Frank Herbert, Ken Kesey, G.W. Lee, Harper Lee, Ursula K. LeGuin, David McCullough, Margaret Mead, Grangland Rice, and Dorothy Parker. This was also the model famously used by Angela Landsbury's character on the TV show Murder, She Wrote.

      Depending on your level of typewriter knowledge try out some of the following short films which will also provide some tips, tricks, and maintenance advice common in the era of your machine:

      Happy Typing!

    1. The markets and level of ubiquity of these items in their heyday are so dramatically different that this is certainly an apples and oranges comparison.

      However, if you want to compare the artist/users of the instrument to their machines, which is a way of potentially intuiting a potential answer to your question (one which is highly subjective), you might go by who was using particular typewriters of the time. Here's some data to consider: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html

      For that rough era in American-made machines, you'll see peak engineering/manufacturing in the 1950s out of the Smith-Corona Super Silent, the Remington Quiet-Riter, and the Royal Quiet De Luxe. Design, touch, and tuning can all be such subjective measures here so as to heavily Muddy (the) Waters ('52 Gibson Les Paul Gold Top/'58 Fender Telecaster) on style, quality, and popularity amongst the cognoscenti. Peak quality in the 60s had broadly moved to post-war Germany and Italy with machines from Olympia (SM3, 4, 5, 7, etc.) and Olivetti respectively.

      For my personal money, in American machines of the time, I love the design and performance of my well-tuned, and mostly restored 1950 Royal KMG. However, the current market certainly wouldn't indicate a broader beloved status for these the way you'll see for Stratocasters. (You'll also find some horribly maintained and un-tuned machines out there on the market, which is why so much of the antique and vintage typewriter market pricing is so wildly out of whack.)

      A separate flavor of question certainly, but if you're looking for a solid performing typewriter to pair aesthetically and temporally with a '64 Strat, I'd go with a Royal FP ('57-62) (which came in Royaltone or Pearl Dark Gray smooth, Royaltone or Pearl Light Gray smooth, Willow Green smooth, Sea Blue smooth, Cameo Pink smooth (Petal Pink) , Brushed Aluminum, Sandstone smooth, and Coral Rose) or the smaller Royal Futura 800 ('58-'63).

  2. Dec 2024
    1. When it comes to some of the older manual typewriters, condition is king and a big determinant of price. For the budget range you're in, you're more likely to get something in mediocre shape that's going to require some work: cleaning, repairs, parts, other.

      Your best bet is to go to a repair shop that sells machines, put your hands on them, try them out, ask lots of questions, then buy your favorite. Your time is worth money and productivity, so buy something you like out of the gate and you'll save a lot in the long run. You'll probably be happier and better off in the long run with something in the £200-400 range. It will also give you something you can start using right away to get your work done rather than faffing about.

      Try shops from this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      I'd generally endorse most of the advice on models you'll find in these sources which are geared specifically toward writers, all three sources have lots experience and reasonable bona fides to make such recommendations. (Though they do tend toward some of the more expensive portables rather than the sturdier and more economical standard machines.)

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9dXflhDed0<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKMt-aCHZZk<br /> https://typewriterreview.com/2020/01/10/top-10-writerly-typewriters/

      Beyond this Just My Typewriter has a few short videos that'll give you a crash course on Typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      u/jbhusker's advice is solid if you prefer that sort of machine instead.

      reply to u/ArcherNF at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hdgte4/looking_for_a_recommendation/

    1. If there is enough room (at least 1.2mm), I use micro paracord to replace drawbands. It has no flex or stretch, can have its knot sealed with a little heat, is tested to 100lbs, and is pretty cheap for more than you’ll probably ever need. I have used Atwood micro cord purchased from Amazon for my projects.
    1. https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h4b3aw/is_there_a_source_that_exists_that_sells_or/

      If you need them for basic functionality, often you can find the manuals of the original manufacturers' models for rebrands (example: the Sears Tower machines which were really just rebrandings of the Smith-Corona 5 series).

      Additionally, after the 1930s there really wasn't a lot of new functionality, so almost any manual will help you to get you where you need to go, though there are some small differences in locations of things like carriage locks which can be helpful to know about and whose placement moved around on various machines.

      You might also notice that as typewriters were more ubiquitous in the 60s and 70s their manuals got thinner and thinner with less detail. If you do find a specific manual, you're unlikely to find very much in it.

      The Davis Brothers have some history on the Commodore line which was related to some of the Sears Chevron line. Polt does have two Commodore manuals which may be close to your machine: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

    1. On the value of typewriters

      As a hobbyist, you'll easily obtain several hundred dollars worth of potential diversion and satisfaction out of your alluring typewriter by cleaning, properly oiling, and adjusting it. Then you're guaranteed to both give and receive thousands of dollars worth of happiness out of it by typing letters to family and friends. With practice, you may reap millions by writing stories, plays, poems, screenplays, and books.

      Even if your scintillating typewriter sits on a shelf as home decor only to be viewed as a museum piece, you'll have gotten $50 of value for even that lowly function.

      You'll only have wasted your money if your wondorous typewriter sits lonely and forgotten in a dusty attic or dank basement to rust and rot away.

      Might you have gotten it for less? Perhaps, but you've saved yourself a huge amount of time and effort in such a hunt for a machine as desirous as this. You have it in front of you for writing right now.

      So get to typing at once my friend! For time is money, and every moment your fingers aren't caressing its keys, you are losing value.

      Congratulations on your stunning find.


      reply to u/readysalted344 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h3jyyt/did_i_waste_my_money/

  3. Nov 2024
    1. With respect to your spools, the side you show in the photo should go face down and the "v" cut side should face up. If you don't have one you can find a manual at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKHM.pdf The Royal standards from the X onward are broadly the same so manuals for the X, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, Empress, and FP should all be useful too: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

    2. reply to u/Pawps4895 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h1dcil/help_ink_ribbon_not_moving/

      That ghosting effect you're seeing may be down to your typing technique. Computer keyboard typing technique is different than typewriter technique. If you're pressing hard and/or bottoming the keys out, you may not be getting your fingers out of the way and causing the key to double strike while you're lifting your finger up.

      Instead, type as if they keys are hot lava. Strike and release them as quickly as possible and that ghosting should clear up. For more on technique, try: https://hypothes.is/users/chrisaldrich?q=tag%3A%22typing+technique%22

      If that isn't the issue, is that ghosting happening on all the keys or just a few? Cleaning things out certainly couldn't hurt: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

    1. Inspired by the discarded typewriters and the ubiquitous construction materials she saw all over Berlin, she created "Writer's Block," an art installation with rebar-caged writing implements placed in Bebelplatz, where in 1933 Nazis burned piles of books.

    2. The store offers maintenance and repair lessons to the public (including Philadelphia school students). The shop hosts poetry nights, open mics, comedy shows and other events. It even offers typewriters to public places such as bookstores, libraries and coffeeshops to bring the machines back into the collective consciousness.
    3. Bryan Kravitz, who specialized in IBM Selectric repairs. Rhoda wanted to learn, too. Kravitz was happy to teach him."I just put my head down, and learned how to do it," Rhoda said, and he partnered with Kravitz to open Philly Typewriter in 2017.
    4. Bill Rhoda, co-owner and lead mechanic at Philly Typewriter.
    1. Most Petite typewriters use T4430 or T4431 ribbon (1/4" wide or 6.50mm) which can be found on eBay and other sites. It generally requires original spools.

      These were generally carbon/plastic based ribbon.

    1. Start of an outline for a longer article on typewriter tools<br /> Suggested by reply to u/Confident_Avocado768 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gy25og/christmas_gift_help/


      If they've been doing restoration for a while, try to find out what they already have to avoid duplication. Anyone who's done a few machines is likely to have a lifetime supply of lubricant (it really goes a long way) and is likely to have gone well beyond cotton swabs. The sort of kit you mention would be more appropriate to someone who's recently gotten their first typewriter, not someone who has restored more than a machine or two.

      Chances are that you can up the level of their restoration tool bag with a small handful of inexpensive and easy to source options:

      • oiler bottles for solvents/cleaning
      • spring hook (push)
      • spring hook (pull)
      • spring hook (captive)
      • wiping cloths (cotton)
      • nylon, brass, and steel brushes (example; 2 or 3 sets of these are always useful)
      • high quality wool mats make a great (soft) surface for working on machines (as well as for typing on). Here's some details and a link to a well-recommended one.

      I've documented some of my own versions of these with links at https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/

      Slightly more expensive tools that they may not have:

      If you really want to shoot the moon and they're into the older vintage machines, you could get them a new pair of keyring pliers: http://mytypewriter.com/hello-qwerty-typewriter-keyring-pliers-kit.aspx

      You can also browse Lucas Dul's kit for other ideas via this presentation: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

      Good luck and Merry Christmas! 🪛🛠️🎅🏼🎄

    1. Useful template for emailing about shipping typewriters


      Dear TK:

      Quite often typewriters are damaged beyond repair in shipping. This is particularly true of larger/heavier typewriters like this one.

      Primary concerns are to prevent movement of the carriage and protecting the carriage knobs and the silver carriage return arm.

      Please use an elastic band(s)/rubber band(s) to permanently hold the carriage release lever to the green carriage knob(s). The carriage release lever is the silver piece just above the green knobs on either side of the typewriter carriage (the part that would move back and forth while typing.) This should allow the carriage to move freely back and forth to the right or the left and prevent any damage to the delicate escapement mechanism inside the typewriter.

      Next, to prevent damage to the carriage with respect to the heavy metal frame, use plastic wrap or bubble wrap to ensure that the carriage is roughly centered on the typewriter (or flush on the left side) and can’t move back or forth while being shipped.

      Finally, ensure appropriate amounts of packing material around the carriage, the knobs, and the return lever to prevent them from being broken or damaged in shipping. In particular, make sure there isn’t any empty space (or dead space) inside the box or the machine is guaranteed to bounce around and break. The box being dropped accidentally from even a foot or two is enough to either bend or break the heavy frame or destroy the carriage. This sort of damage is often what makes what is otherwise a fully functional typewriter a useless boat anchor.

      Thanks in advance for your kind assistance in helping this vintage machine reach me in its best condition!

      Warmest regards, name

      Video example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNISoY_7g9s Written example: https://johnlewismechanicalantiques.com/packing-instructions/

    1. If you love the Art Deco style of the font, look for an Olivetti MP1 ICO with Simplicitas. Same feel but in a beautiful matching machine. I picked one up for $1500 fully restored from Spain. The look and feel of it is far superior to the Royal P Vougue. I've seen dozens of Vogue for sale, only two Simplicitas.
    2. The Everest K2 occasionally comes with Simplicitas typeface. It is in the Vogue family and I prefer it to Vogue. Might be worth considering. It’s rarer than Vogue. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/s/q7YmP7WZBN
    1. They still have some specific use cases where they aren't obsolete. For example I've worked at several law firms and every one of them had at least one office typewriter. They are super useful when you're working with older documents and want the additions to look professional and consistent. For example I once worked on a complex stock reissue where I was working with 100 year old stock certificates. Typing on them was muuuuuch faster, easier, and cleaner with a typewriter than trying to line up the old certificates in a laser printer
    1. It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.

      People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.

      The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.

    1. And this is where you see how the condition of a machine comes into play when pricing is being considered. A $700 machine has had several hours of cleaning and potential reconditioning, parts, repairs, oiling, and adjusting done. At $700 and given it's age, I'd also want to ask if they've replaced the platen. Compare this with a dirty, old machine that's going to need those same hours of work, attention, parts, and new rubber, to bring it up to par and it's definitely not going to fetch the same price.

      And this is exactly what is wrong with 95% of the market: most buyers and sellers have no idea what they've got, much less the condition it's in or the work that it takes to bring these back to life for another 50-75 years. Thus they price their dirty, and rough machines at the same prices as the repair shops thinking they're going to make a mint. Apparently they're all hoping some sucker who doesn't know better will buy it.

      Remember: Dante has a special circle of hell for those who buy typewriters for pennies on the dollar and flip them on eBay without doing any work on them.

    1. Hi friends! I received a vintage teal blue SCM Smith Corona "Skyriter" typewriter. It is awesome, but it does not have the original spools. I ordered an expensive original ribbon from eBay, but it was totally dried out. Then I ordered an inexpensive "universal" (2") spool from Amazon that didn't fit in my machine. Does anyone have recommendations of new, small spool (1 5/8") ribbons that tend to be reliably inky? I am located in Canada and getting tired of paying import costs on stuff that doesn't work. Thanks in advance!

      reply to u/actualwoey at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gqhied/recommendations_for_reliable_new_small_spool_1_58/

      You could see if a local repair shop is parting out a machine or has spools that would work for you. iirc the Corona Zephyr, Skyriter, and the later versions of the Corsair all used that smaller spool size, usually described as 1 5/8" or 1 2/3". https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html Once you've got the correct sized spools, you can wind your Amazon ribbon onto them, but you'll likely have to trim it down to fit. (2" spools usually have 16 yards of ribbon while the 1 5/8" accommodate about 12 yards.)

      If you can't come up with original metal spools to respool your 1/2" ribbon onto, you can try https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/category-s/12779.htm which will sell you both in one go.

      Some other ribbon options: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I've had good luck buying bulk ribbon from both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line.

      I've heard some have successfully re-juvenated old ribbon by spraying it (unspooled into a box) with WD-40 or glycerine to re-wet it and then respooling it.

    1. Gerren HotRod TypewriterCoChris Aldrich this is the mat I use. It's $15 and it's soaked up 5 years of everything I do and it still looks like the day I bought it.

      Gerren of the HotRod Typewriter Co. uses a 17" x 13.5" Wool Pressing mat from the Zomoneti Store on Amazon for his typewriter repair set up https://amzn.to/3CkQS4V

    1. After using my newspaper.com acct it appears that 79 or so you see the correction key feature and the model often called "Report Electric Correction." By 1983 ish, at least in the dealer ads that show up, they have dropped it and are full steam onto the electronic version of the Report/er.
    2. Anything with "correction" (ie: originally used with white/black super-messy "correction" ribbons, and has the bichrome label "black, silver, white or white/red") will be very late 70's through the 80's. This *could* be 1987, and I think it probably is, because I know that correction started about 1978-9 for Brother, so it probably started around then for other manufacturers too. If someone knew for sure when those awful black/white ribbons were introduced *exactly*. you could pin it down more precisely, but right now, that's as good as we've got.
    1. Do not "dunk wash" your machine. Though some may debate, it is our opinion that this actually does more harm than good. Rusted parts will flash-rust, grime cannot be removed without violent agitation and no matter how thorough you are, you will never get all the water out.
    2. Mineral spirits are still the best for cleaning non-painted metal parts. Magic in a bottle, this is! Be careful to avoid getting it on painted surfaces, rubber, and/or plastic bits.
    1. If you've been dreaming of plunging into this profession, consider the success of Paul Lundy, who took over Bremerton Office Machine Company from nonagenarian Bob Montgomery; or Antony Valoppi, creator of Portland's Type Space, which combines a traditional typewriter shop with a cultural center; or Trevor Brumfield, a young man in his late twenties who has quickly built Dayton's TB Writers Plus into a busy enterprise.
    1. https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/fillers/fil-stik-putty-sticks/

      Putty sticks (aka paint sticks) are good for filling in nicks and dings on furniture.

      These putty sticks and some crayons are also great for restoring the colored index lines on typewriters as well as other colored metal parts and occasionally on some plastic typewriter keys.

      M231-10104 SYY Red<br /> M230-0054 Crimson Rose #SN292<br /> M230-0046 COCONUT, COTTON, BRIE, HEAVY CREAM, SNOWFLAKE <br /> M230-0090 Picket Fence

  4. Oct 2024
    1. Typewriter Basics: Carriage Locks by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Sarah describes having a common spacebar issue when repairing a typewriter, bending the spacebar down which causes the machine not to work/advance as a result when it's put back into the typewriter shell.

      Sarah also shows some type bar benders, but doesn't demonstrate how she (or her father) used them to do the repair.

    1. They're looking at what others online are listed for (and not what they've actually sold for) to set their price. They probably have no idea what the typewriter market is like and what the value of their machine really is based on a variety of factors including make/model, condition, servicing, extras, typeface. Unless their machine has an exceptionally rare typeface (usually adds $80-150) or has a brand new rubber (usually adds 30-40 for new feet) or a new platen ($100-180), then in its current condition it's probably not worth more than $50.

      Once you get it, you're going to want to have it cleaned, oiled, and adjusted which will run you several hours of labor and materials at a repair shop at $50-75 per hour. It may also need one or two replacement parts.

      If talking to them about the price doesn't bring it down significantly then you should pass on it. If you're not up to cleaning, adjusting, oiling a machine yourself, your best bet is to purchase something from a repair shop that already is. You'll have a far better experience. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      For comparison here's some similar machines professionally cleaned, serviced, with new ribbons and a 3 month warranty from $240-350 with some of the price depending on particular model and desirability of color. https://reeselectronics.com/search.php?search_query=smith+corona+silent&x=0&y=0

      If you've got money to burn then maybe it's worth $180 to you, but if that's the case then get something in much nicer condition from a repair shop.


      reply to u/EmergencyFirst7634 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gcyayc/this_a_good_buy/

    1. Royal Strengthen Shift Springs KMM Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      I picked this up from a repair manual, but good to see my reading was correct.

      Forming the tabs on the shift assembly inwards will increase the tension and responsiveness of the shift assembly on older Royal standard typewriters.

    1. If the "Hanks Effect" was really so prominent, then we should see the commensurate rise in price of 5 Series Smith Coronas and particularly the Clipper and the Silent which he's also mentioned several times. In fact, he's said these would be the typewriter he'd keep if he had to get rid of all others. Given this fact, it has to be, in part, a variety of other factors which inflates the prices.

      Personally I think that it's a combination of the fact that they were manufactured at the peak of typewriter use and manufacturing and before companies began using more plastic and cheaper manufacturing methods, but were also done in a later timeperiod when exterior design and color were on the rise as a differentiator in the marketplace. Quality, form, and function become part of a trifecta which drive desire and collectability.

    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

    1. Royal Typewriter KMG Mainspring Drawband Tightened Adjusted Tension by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      On the left rear corner underneath the carriage when moved to the right, one can easily see the mainspring and drawband assembly. Just behind it is a worm drive operated by a screw. Turning this screw counterclockwise will advance the worm drive to the left and increase the tension on the mainspring.

    1. Royal KMM KMG Typewriter Feet Spacers Original Smashed Rubber Replaced by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Squished rubber feet spacers on the Royal standard typewriters can cause interfere with the universal bar and when they do, they'll need replacement.

      This is the same sort of interference seen on Olympia SM3s due to their squished/flattened rubber gaskets, though the symptoms are different.


      "Phoenix typewriter. Have a Royal day!" <br /> A slightly different sign off from Duane's usual... :)

    1. ROYAL KMM Replacing Type Bar Link Remove Arm Repaired Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      This is roughly what I expected to be the case. I've got to shift the fulcrum pivot wire so I can reattach my Q and @ on a Royal KMG.

      Roughly similar to Gerren's video on swapping out typefaces, but with a slightly different technique for speed of doing that. See: https://hypothes.is/a/I_-9rBV2Ee-eMotzy9_Z-Q

    1. I consider Valentines 'designer' typewriters, and generally overrated. If you want to write on an Olivetti, I'd go for the Lettera 22/32/DL. The Valentine is based on the Lettera 32, so the mechanical part is solid, but the Valentine is not as well-balanced as the 32. And about ten times more expensive.

      Me starts thinking about cornering the market in Lettera 32s and 3D printing Valentine cases to put onto them...

    1. Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

      A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I've compiled and consumed over the last six months, so don't be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month of reading and researching.

      Basic Introductory Material

      Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you'll remember where you found the random information you're bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

      Work your way through Sarah Everett's excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      Read Richard Polt's book which is a great overview to the general space:<br /> Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

      Next watch the documentary California Typewriter. Documentary. Gravitas Pictures, 2016. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5966990/. It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you're headed off to.

      Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it.

      Basic restoration advice: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      On colloquial advice for degreasing, cleaning, and oiling manual typewriters https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Repair Manuals

      Create an account on typewriterdatabase.com which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs.

      They also have some openly accessible material like:<br /> * https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php

      Printed manuals: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&contributor=Ted+Munk&page=1&pageSize=50 PDF manuals: https://sellfy.com/twdb

      Ted Munk's website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful * https://munk.org/typecast/

      Richard Polt's list of service manuals, which also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Tools

      In rough order of increasing complexity:

      Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

      Videos

      Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

      While watching a variety of videos is great, as you're doing specific repairs search YouTube and you're likely to find full demos of the repairs you're doing yourself.

      I've compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

      If you're not a good typist or don't have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

      Internships & Apprenticeships

      If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can't spend the time on an internship. You'll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they're parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

      Podcasts

      Some useful Bibliography

      Good luck on your journey!


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gaza5x/learning_typewriter_maintenance_and_repair/

    1. An interesting aside, the name of it. The "Gray Magic" didn't quite stick. By 51 or so the dealers have clearly decided that it is a KMG (keyset magic gray).
    1. You might not want to get too hung up on sound deadening material. Anything is better than nothing and stick on felt works just fine. Most of the noise from a typewriter comes from the paper being slapped between the platen. A new platen will give you more quiet sessions. Any felt added will keep out any high pitch resonant echos but it's not going to do a whole lot for the overall volume you will experience. A good typing mat like wool, and a new platen are by far the two optimal solutions for noise. Felt can be a bonus but unless it's a complete tin can rattle trap, the difference between 1mm and 3mm felt probably isnt going to rock your world.

      via Gerren @ HotRod Typewriter Co. at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3903042456599841/

      new platen > felt typewriter pad >> new felt in a typewriter for dampening sound.

    1. I would note that the Tippa S continued under Royal/Litton through the late 70’s in the form of the late Royal Sahara: https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.Sahara.72.bmys and Royal Caravan: https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.Caravan.72.bmys (Made in Holland)
    1. Pretty much all manual typewriters use 1/2" (12.7mm) wide ribbon which is most of what you're probably going to find in the marketplace.

      The thing that changes from machine to machine is is the potentially proprietary spools and those are usually specific to how the ribbion auto switch is effectuated. Most ribbon comes with small grommets about 10-12 inches from the ends as many machines need this to trigger the switch over. If the plastic spools you purchase don't work with your particular machine you simply spend a minute or two to hand wind it onto your existing original (metal) spools and go from there.

      There are lots of videos on YouTube showing how to hand wind ribbon onto a machine. Sarah has a pretty reasonable one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up412FjTEkw

      Even Tom Hanks has a ribbon changing video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0

      Incidentally, if your seller specifies them, the Underwoods take Group 9 (GR9) spools. Likely not helpful or illustrative for you, but certainly interesting from a historical perspective, Ted Munk has a catalog of Typewriter Ribbon varieties Offered by Underwood in 1956: https://munk.org/typecast/2020/08/23/typewriter-ribbon-varieties-offered-by-underwood-in-1956/


      reply to u/prettiestGOAT at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g8z0fm/can_anyone_help_id_this_underwood_typewriter_and/

    1. Kasten, R. M. “First Aid for Typewriters.” Popular Science Monthly, May 1941.

    2. If the feed rollers areworn smooth, a light sandpapering will re-store their grip.
    3. Cylinders and feed rollers may be cleaned,and the rubber rejuvenated, by wiping themwith denatured alcohol. Just do this whennecessary, as too much alcohol counteractsits own good effects.
    4. Key tension on many standard typewriters maybe changed by adjusting spring-tension screwsfor individual keys. A half turn to the rightmakes the touch heavier, to the left, lighter
    5. Beforegivingamachineabathingasolinewithsomemachineoiladded,removerubberfeet,ribbon, andifpossible,thecarriage.
    6. Dolettersin alinesometimesstart nicely,thenrundownhill?Thiscan’thappenifyouuse theline-spacinglever,insteadofrollingthepaper throughwiththecylinderknob.Inthelatter case, the rollerthatlocksthespacingofthe linesmaycometorest on topofaratchettooth,insteadofsettlingbetweentwoofthem.Whenthemachinestarts, thevibration graduallyjarsthecylinderarounduntilitreachesitsnormal position—droppinglettersasitturns.
    7. Another part never to be oiled is theslotted casting through which the type barspivot. Oil in these slots would soon gumthem up and bog down the whole machine.

      Don't oil the segment.

    8. On portable machines, and standard ma-chines in which the carriage runs on ballbearings in a track, this track should notbe oiled, but should merely be wiped clean.

      Interesting that Kasten recommends against oiling the carriage rails of portables and standard machines which run on ball bearings.

    9. Cakedinkmayberemovedwithtypeputty,alcohol,carbontetrachloride,oroneoftheproprietarydry-cleaningfluids,appliedwithabrush.Pressthetypeputtyontothetype,peelitoff,andthecakedinkcomeswithit.Ifyouusealiquid,firstliftthetypeandputpaperunderitto prevent dirt from dripping into the machine. When using type-cleaning fluid, be sure toWipe the type dry with a cloth before using the place paper under type to prevent dirt frommachine again.

      dry cleaning solvents in 1941 were likely Varsol or Stoddard's Formula.

      compare to trichloroethane<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/EyBIAFXAEe-AcP-Atlj_aQ

      Note discontinuation of carbon tetrachloride<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/bfdi_I90Ee-OQLN0HpsE7Q

    10. Any ordinary light machineoil will do, but regular typewriter or spermoil is best. Apply it sparingly—as much aswill cling to the end of a toothpick will do—and wipe off all excess.

      toothpick as a typewriter tool

    11. When a machine actsup, ten to one it is due to your own neglect.
    1. Zilphia Horton (1910–1956), American musician and activist who died from accidentally drinking a glass full of carbon tetrachloride-based typewriter cleaning fluid that she mistook for water.[82]

      Glen, John M. (1996). Highlander: No Ordinary School, 2nd ed. Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press. p. 138.

    1. Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

      This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

    1. Sanding and polishing the keys on my Smith-Corona Silent Super. A lesson to all, use foil when using PBlaster to clean, not a rag. It still melts plastic when it soaks through the rag…

      All the videos on YouTube are generally of mechanics who are covering things up for a quick operation (like cleaning slugs) and not for longer cleans. This can be misleading for those who are doing longer term work where the rags need to withstand more liquid or are sitting for longer.

    1. The nuts on the ribbon selector and the ribbon reverse on Royal Quiet De Luxes is a 7/32 inch nut.

    2. Royal Quiet DeLuxe Typewriter Complete Total Body Removal by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Gerren uses a Weaver gunsmith screwdriver set for most of his screwdriver needs. [5:00]

      On the newer QDLs two of the screws for removing the rear plate are accessible from the top underneath the carriage instead of all on the rear.

      The screws for the front body plate can be loosened and don't need to be fully removed to take the body plate off of the machine.

    1. quietly cleaning a quiet deluxe by [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Cleaning the case, exterior and some of interior of a Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter. She does a somewhat minimal job here.

      She could have disassembled a bit more and done a better job with a toothbrush and mineral spirits on the inside.

      Not a horrible recommendation for a beginner, but could have gone further and been a bit more comprehensive.

    1. Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter Adjustment Print Quality Height Balance On-Feet Shift Motion by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      He made sure the carriage isn't out of alignment which can cause on feet issues as well.

      Adjust the basket stops higher or lower as necessary. Try 1/2 to full turn and test each

      The adjustment points are between the body and the carriage about an inch inside the body shell.

      Do upper case first. The first set of screws/nuts just next to the outside of the typewriter are for lower case and the second set just inside of those are for upper case.

      Turning the adjustment screws clockwise should push the carriage stops down just a bit.

      Some good characters to check are H, h, p, y, and 8.

    2. When doing type alignment, Duane Jensen was taught to use an old/used ribbon instead of a new, wet/dark ribbon for better performance in testing. New ribbons don't show the differences as well.

      He's noticed that ribbon from Around the Office are dreadful.

    1. Does anyone know how do they make new platens?

      reply to u/General-Writing1764 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g7a8y5/does_anyone_know_how_do_they_make_new_platens/

      I'm guessing that JJ Short is taking the original, removing the rubber. Placing the core into a mold and pouring in new material which hardens. Once done they put it on a lathe and turn it down to the appropriate (original) diameter. Potentially they're sanding the final couple of thousands of an inch for finish.

      I'd imagine that if you asked them, they could/would confirm this general process.

      The only other shop I've heard doing platen work is Bob at Typewriter Muse, but I haven't gone through his YouTube videos to see what his process looks like. (I'm pretty sure he documents some of it there.)

    1. For an inexpensive starter machine ($5-25) that's easy to find, easy to get parts for and has a reasonable chance of working when in "unknown" or "untested" condition, I'd recommend one of the following ubiquitous, but solid machines which show up almost daily on ShopGoodwill.com:

      They'd all make excellent starter machines for a younger kid. The black models with glass keys from the 1940s will look a bit more old school/classic while the more industrial browns and grays with plastic keys from the 1950s are still solid choices. You might also find some later 60s/70s versions of these machines (or variations), and while they may be a bit more colorful, they'll usually have a lot more cheap plastic and can potentially have cheaper builds. (My parents got me my first typewriter, a 1948 Smith-Corona Clipper, in the mid-1980s when I was 10—I have it today and it still works as well as it did then; I still also love the airplane on the hood.)

      If you want something simple with a bit of color you can also look at the 70s/80s Brother Charger 11 which is pretty ubiquitious and inexpensive as well.

      Since you have some time, you can wait for one in better looking cosmetic condition (and with a case) which means it was probably better taken care of, and less likely to need aggressive cleaning, and more likely to work without needing any repairs. You can also wait to find one local that you can pick up in person (to save shipping cost and/or potential damage) or which will be cheaper to ship from nearby.

      Without any experience, you might try looking at Just My Typewriter's Typewriter 101 series on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS She covers most of the basics there.

      Cleaning a machine isn't horribly difficult and can be done pretty cheaply ($20 or less for some paint thinner/isopropyl and a small toothbrush), but if you need it or get a machine that needs some repair work, try https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html.

      If you're in an area with lots of yard sales, try shopping around and see if you find something interesting. It's at these that you'll have a potential chance of finding more collectible machines for pennies on the dollar and it'll also give you the chance to put your hands on machines to test them out to make sure they work.

      Good luck! 🎄


      reply to u/strawberystegosaurus at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g5rgi4/typewriter_for_christmas_please_help/

    1. Successful Secretary Presented by Royal Office Typewriters. A Thomas Craven Film Corporation Production, 1966. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=If5b2FiDaLk.

      Script: Lee Thuna<br /> Educational Consultant: Catharine Stevens<br /> Assistant Director: Willis F. Briley<br /> Design: Francisco Reynders<br /> Director & Producer: Carl A. Carbone<br /> A Thomas Craven Film Corporation Production

      "Mother the mail"

      gendered subservience

      "coding boobytraps"


      "I think you'll like the half sheet better. It is faster." —Mr. Typewriter, timestamp

      A little bit of the tone of "HAL" from 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968). This is particularly suggestive as H.A.L. was a one letter increment from I.B.M. and the 1966 Royal 660 was designed to compete with IBM's Selectric

      This calm voice makes suggestions to a secretary while H.A.L. does it for a male astronaut (a heroic figure of the time period). Suddenly the populace feels the computer might be a bad actor.

      "We're living in an electric world, more speed and less effort."—Mr. Typewriter<br /> (techno-utopianism)

    1. Advanced Typing: Duplicating and Manuscript. Vol. MN-1512d, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ve5JnTUzvo.

      Stencils

      Before writing stencils, be sure to clean your type. (Don't use liquid solvent.)

      Be sure to place the cushion sheet properly behind the stencil.

      Place the paper bail rollers at the extreme left and right of the stencil to prevent them from marking the master.

      For errors, rub individual characters separately with a burnisher using a circular motion.

      Hectograph masters, Hectograph ribbon (ditto ribbon)

      Wax pencils

      Typefaces

      20% more type on a page with elite than 10 inch pica.

      Pica allows approximately 26-40 lines on standard letterhead giving 300-450 words to a page.

      Special characters: - o for degrees ' and " for feet and inches or minutes and seconds along with superscript - division: - backspace colon - pound sterling: L backspace f - exclamation point: period backspace ' - equal sign: hyphen backspace variable hyphen - paragraph mark: P backspace I

      proofreaders' marks<br /> # followed by a number is used to mean insert that number of spaces

      Centering timestamp 19:37

    1. Basic Typing: Machine Operation. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512b, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-REJEArnjE.

      Type pacer timestamp 4:12

      "Your head is the most important part of your typing." - Lenore Fenton

      "Your typewriter does exactly what you make it do, but it does no more" - Lenore Fenton <br /> This is very similar to quotes about computer programs at the end of the 20th century too.

      The touch characteristics for the manual, the noiseless, and the electric are all slightly different.

    1. 1962 Vintage IBM Typewriter Training Film IBM Selectric Proper Typing Procedures, w/ Bud McDole by [[Computer History Archives Project]]

      Right at the Typewriter. 16 mm. San Francisco, CA: KQED, 1962. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPfHAW_OfGo.

      On manual typewriters one "snaps" the keys while on an electric keyboard one "taps" the keys for maximum speed and accuracy.

      Overview of functionality of an IBM typewriter.

      To add longevity to one's carbon papers they should be rotated both top to bottom and front to back within one's packs.

      Use plastic type cleaner, meant for cleaning type slugs, to clean the excess ink from a typewriter. Form it into a point and press it to the letter to erase several times. Then erase with eraser shield and eraser.

      To type to the very bottom of the page, particularly with a carbon pack, to prevent slippage at the bottom, insert a "trailer sheet" about halfway down the first page. Insert it at the back of the pack just behind the original and between the first carbon sheet.

      For typing small sheets of paper (index cards) fold a pleat into a regular sheet of paper and use the lip to hold the smaller sheet you're typing on.

      To more quickly type envelopes, do the first then reverse the platen so that only about an inch of the top of the envelope is visible. Then insert the next envelope behind the first and continue reversing the platen. This will allow the finished envelopes to stack at the paper table and speed the threading and typing of envelopes in rapid succession.

      Use of the divots on the typing guide for making horizontal or vertical lines while moving the carriage or rotating the platen respectively.

      How to change the typeball and the ribbon cartridge on the IBM selectric.

    1. Hot Rod Mercury - Repaired ! Royal Typewriter Made in Japan Not Spacing Troubleshoot and Fix. by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      There was a loose assembly underneath the carriage that was preventing the vibrator from working and the carriage from advancing via typing. Tightening it up fixed the issue completely.

    1. Saying Goodbye to Vale Typewriter, the Second-to-Last Typewriter Shop in Town - Racket by [[Jay Boller]] for [[Racket]]

      Mark Soderbeck expects to close Vale Typewriter by the end of 2024 after a 67-year run.

    2. Soderbeck tells us about a recent job that took 40 hours to complete. He ended up charging the customer just $50.

      "Well, I already gave him an estimate," he says with a chuckle. "I'm not gonna change that quote, I've been here too long to do that."

      It seems like an unwritten rule for typewriter repair shops to go way over on time versus pay to repair a typewriter based on an initial quote.

      I've seen at least one other quote like this, but don't think I collected it.

    3. autographed Corona Junior that Hanks gifted to Vale this past March.

      Tom Hanks Typewriter Collection #329<br /> Corona Junior donated to Vale Typewriter in March 2023

    4. "Business went right to nothing, hardly," he remembers. "As soon as that computer hit the price of under $2,000, that was the end of the typewriter business—80% of the business was gone in three years. When I started there was 27 little shops like this in the Twin Cities, and there was 47 before that."
    5. Vale Typewriter from Ray Vale, who had helmed the stout brick building since it was constructed in 1957.
    6. 11-month typewriter repair program

      In 1974 there were 11-month typewriter repair programs to train typewriter repair technicians.


      Compare this to Philly Typewriter's 4 year internship program: https://hypothes.is/a/LSbZtlboEe-4vtMPIWcTKA

    7. "I don't need the city of Richfield being involved, they've never talked to me for 49 years," he says of awkward visits this week from the mayor and a city council member.

      Why would the city come calling to a typewriter shop calling? Nostalgia perhaps? Better would be if they came to order or have their machines serviced to keep the place open or to help the next generation continue on.

    1. So I have a typewriter with a diamond-hard platen. All the usual tricks for softening didn't work, and sanding the hard layer back revealed that the rubber had entirely perished all the way to the core; so I've removed it. Now, I'm in Australia, and there is no professional group here that replaces platens. So I've been looking at home fixes, old manufacturing techniques, and I think I have a solution. I have wrapped a few thin layers of cork around the platen core, and I intend to finish it off with perhaps two layers of heat shrink rubber tomorrow. I think the end result will be a platen with a firm strike face and a softer centre to absorb the strikes. My trial with the cork on its own was promising, but it was ultimately a little too soft. I could harden it with urethane or resin, but in the interest of being able to undo my work, I will try the rubber first. Will keep you informed.

      One of the few others aside from JJ Short who is doing platens is Bob over at Typewriter Muse. Might be worth checking out his YouTube channel for some potential tips.

      I presume you're already aware of how to make your ring and cylinder adjustments when you're done, so things are properly tuned...

      Can't wait to see what you come up with...


      reply to u/throneofashes at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g2j4hz/platen_experiment/

    1. A Primer on Typewriter Ribbons & Spools by [[Damon DiMarco]]

      Typewriter ribbon is 1/2" wide (12.7mm) which has been standardized as DIN2103.

      The DIN 32755 spool, aka a Universal spool, or a Group 1 spool.

      Olivetti typewriters use Group 4 spools.

    1. I've picked up about 20 of the typewriters in my collection from ShopGoodwill.

      Only two were impeccably/properly packaged and shipped and one of these was a special machine that I emailed them after purchase with written details and links to videos about how to pack and ship it just to be on the safe side.

      Three were dreadful disasters: one was a 40 pound standard that was dropped and the frame bent drastically (it had almost no padding materials inside the box), two were shoved into cases (one upside down and the other right side up, but neither locked into their cases properly nor with their carriage locks engaged so they both bounced around for the entire trip) and put into boxes with almost no packing material. All three refunded portions of the price and/or all the shipping costs.

      Most of the remainder (all portables with cases) were packaged with a modicum of care (some packing material in the case and some outside the case with reasonable boxes) and showed up in reasonable condition.

      Two of the machines were local enough that I did a local pick up to ensure better care.

      Generally, it's a crapshoot, but this is also the reason why I don't spend more than $20 on any machine I get from them (except one reasonably rare German typewriter in the US and a Royal with a Vogue typeface that still came out at less than $100 because only one other person noticed its rarity in the photos).

      Only one of the machines was clean as a whistle and ready to type on day one. All the remainder required serious cleanings at a minimum. Two were missing internal pieces, two had repairable drawband issues, one had dramatically bad escapement issues, and one had a destroyed mainspring that I need to replace.

      Only one of the group had a platen with any life left in it. One had a completely unusable platen, but it was also relatively obvious in the photos. Most of the rest were hard, but usable.

      I live in the US and typically only bid on machines that are in the top 20% of their class cosmetically.

      I'll echo the thought of others that I wouldn't have a machine from them shipped directly to someone as a present unless I knew they were a tinkerer and had the mechanical ability, the facilities/tools, and desire to clean and service their own machine. Otherwise, I'd do that myself and ship it to them directly.


      reply to u/Tico_Typer at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g28v6z/i_am_curious_about_the_shopping_goodwill_websites/

    1. Typing Technique and Typewriter Design by [[Will Davis]] and [[Dave Davis]]

      As early as 1932 Royal salesmen would use poor typing technique on purpose to cause skipping and piling and then use proper technique on their own machine to show how much better their typewriters were compared to the others.

      Some repair and service manuals had sections about tuning a typewriter to the level of technique of the user. These may have included 5-6 specific adjustments for allowance to a particular user's technique, as an example indicated in this video.

      "pounded out" - used by a heavy handed typist and now skipping (mentioned possibly in an Ames Repair Manual)

      In the mid-century, the service life of a standard machine was 1-3 years of continual (heavy) use. After this it would have been remanufactured or swapped out.

    1. I just got a 1950 version of this KMG this week in medium rough shape too. (My 7th Royal and my 2nd Standard)

      Looks like a Royal KMG with the Henry Dreyfuss glass tombstone keys in Gray Frieze paint. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.KMG.72.bmys

      Mine has some minor carriage issues that I'm hoping clear up with some cleaning. Otherwise it may need some tools and internal repair work and/or parts. If yours is generally working, a good cleaning and oiling should get you going: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Diagram of parts: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg

      Manual of the prior model KMM which preceeded it, so the functionalilty should be almost exactly the same: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf (Royal Standard internals were almost exactly the same from the Ten (1909) through the FP/Empress (1966).)

      Home Study Course in Typewriter Repair and Service: ca. 1959, published by the Typewriter Repair School in Little Falls, New Jersey. Focuses on the Royal KMM among others: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/homestudycourse.pdf

      See also:<br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.royal-repair.manual - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.royal-parts-01.manual

      Searching on YouTube for cleaning and repair advice should help out a lot. Phoenix Typewriter has some solid videos on related models (search also the Royal X (ten), KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, and Empress which are all roughly the same internals with slightly different body styles.)

      If you need some basic typewriter 101, try: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      reply to u/MajesticWear5478 https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g1i440/tips_for_cleaning_and_fixing_a_1949_royal/#lightbox

    1. If the Letter is important, especially if it be aBusiness-Letter, there should be as long an interval as isfeasible between the writing and the sending off.

      writing and waiting is useful in many instances, and particularly for clarity of expression.

      see also: <br /> - angry letter https://hypothes.is/a/6OoqHofyEe-1mtOohGA63w - diffuse thinking<br /> - typewriter (waiting) <br /> - editing (waiting) https://hypothes.is/a/VxRNeofvEe-5n1dpCEM48Q

    2. Very few have the strength of mind tokeep back for a whole week a piece of Writing whichthey have finished. Type-writing sometimes necessitatesthis interval, or at any rate a certain interval.

      The process of having a work typewritten forced the affordance of creating time away from the writing of a piece. This allows for both active and diffuse thinking on the piece as well as the ability to re-approach it with fresh eyes days or weeks later.

    1. Let's Compare 1955 & 1957 Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriters by [[Scott Drudge]] of Old Bob's Old Typewriters

    2. In David Gerrold's The Trouble with Tribbles: The Story Behind Star Trek's Most Popular Episode, he describes how he used a 12-pitch Selectric to type the 1967 episode. When the studio retyped it in pica (10-pitch) it came out to 90 pages and had to be cut down significantly to fit the show's running time.

      The difference amounts to approximately 3 words per page and about 50 words per page.

    3. The November 1952 issue of Boys Life had an advertisement for contest for a gold-plated Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter.

      timestamp

    4. Needs exact sourcing, but Ian Flemming had a gold-plated Royal that he paid $174 for in 1952 and which sold in 1995 by Christys' for $89,229.

      timestamp

    1. Typographical Typewriter Fun by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      titling<br /> centering<br /> dates<br /> 1/2 line spacing<br /> 1/2 space spacing<br /> shadow effects

    1. The 2024 Phoenix Type-In by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Platen shrinkage

      • most typewriters are 6 lines per inch
      • 6.5 lines per inch based on actual measurement per JVC on one of his machines
      • 2mm shrinkage??
      • Per Bob/Typewriter Muse 1.1

      Bob had a machine that was supposed to be 1.27 but was measured at 1.259 when pulled off. So shrinkage of platens can be roughly fifteen hundredths of an inch (0.015" or about 0.4mm)

      Bob at Typewriter Muse custom tunes platens to the typewriter. Only place doing platens outside of JJ Short.

      JVC's partner took him to the Phoenix Type-in for her birthday.

      Bill Wahl of Mesa Typewriter Exchange

      grandfather started in the 40s<br /> bill started in 73<br /> part time help to 92 and now by himself<br /> does his benchwork after hours and chats during the day

      Ted Munk

      adding machine database consideration

      looking for service manuals for: - royal portables 50-59<br /> - skyriter 40s / 50s<br /> - sm9 service manual

      Royal Mercury manual is a clear, well-written manual. The Smith-Corona series 5 typewriter manuals are great too, though a bit more dense.

      Brian Goode and Christy organized this year's Phoenix Type-In.

    1. I’ve currently only fixed the platen and reconnected the space bar. Issue I’m having is the letters are really faint and cut off almost half way through.

      Often after you resurface a platen, it slightly changes the configuration of the platen with respect to the typeface. As a result one usually may need to do three adjustments in a specific order to get things to align properly again. These can definitely be done at home with some patience.

      Usually the order for tweaking is: * Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good). Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. * On Feet adjustment (vertical adjustment so that letters are bright and clear and neither top or bottom of characters are too light/faint) Repair shops will often type /// or a variety of characters with longer ascenders/descenders to make sure that the type is clear from top to bottom. * Motion adjustment (the lower and upper case letters are at the same level with respect to each other) The best way to test this is to type a center character like HHHhhhHHH to see if they line up on the bottom (the last three Hs are usually done with the Shift Lock on to make sure that's properly set).

      You can search YouTube videos for your model (or related models) and these words which may uncover someone doing a similar repair, so you have a better idea of what you're doing and where to make the adjustments.

      Here's Joe Van Cleave describing some of it in one of his early videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0AozF2Jfo0

      The general principles for most typewriters are roughly the same with slight variations depending on whether your machine is a segment shift or a carriage shift. You should roughly be able to puzzle out which screws to adjust on your particular model to get the general outcome you want.

      Related blogposts: * https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/<br /> * https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

      You might find a related repair manual for your machine with more detail and diagrams for these adjustments via the Typewriter Database or on Richard Polt's typewriter site.

      For those not mechanically inclined you may be better off taking it onto a repair shop for a quick adjustment. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html 

      Reply to u/Acethease at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1d76ygx/got_a_as_a_gift_corona_3_recentlyish_and_i_need/

    1. I've generally found that Olympia machines with a dedicated 1 key and a 4/$ key will usually have a script font. Additionally they don't have ribbon selectors (which are most often on the right hand side of the keyboard when they are present) or only have black and stencil settings.

      The lack of bichrome settings on these machines is due to the taller/lower extenders on many script glyphs.

    2. In later units, the absence of a ribbon selector is a good clue, though later units (late ‘60s onwards) offered script with units that had ribbon selectors.
    3. In earlier units, typewriters that have the letter 1 key is a good clue that it is a script font typewriter.