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  1. Last 7 days
    1. it is not mold; it is plasticizers coming out of the plastic. I remove it with various means: alcohol, polishing with a very fine polish, Goo Gone™, naptha, and such.

      The white gunky substances seen on the plastic keys of old, unmaintained typewriters generally isn't mold, but plasticizers coming out of the plastic. These can usually be cleaned off using simple household cleaning products or if necessary heavier cleaners (Goo Gone, alcohol, naptha, etc. - test these on hidden parts first to ensure they don't react with or destroy the plastic or remove the paint of the key letters) followed up by light waxes or polishes and buffing.

    1. reply to u/KingCollectA at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rpr1ha/got_quite_lucky_finding_a_free_olympia_sg1_had_to/

      Typically the SG1 has at least 3 serial numbers. Two matching ones on the main body (one hiding deep inside), and the third on the bottom portion of the carriage, which may or may not match the other two. (The carriages were meant to be easily swappable for machines with the same CPI/escapement sizes.) Removing the carriage will usually reveal the body serial number (typically a 7-XXXXXXXXX) format which you can compare with the grid of serial number ranges to see where yours fits in at https://typewriterdatabase.com/olympia.61.typewriter-serial-number-database.

      I just got mine and have finished most of its servicing, though one or two small adjustments remain for it to be where I want it to be. Beyond this, it's been spectacular. See also: https://boffosocko.com/tag/Olympia-sg1/

    1. u/shapeless_nodule replied to your comment in r/typewriters ok post over thanks for providing this information in such a kind and welcoming way

      You're welcome u/shapeless_nodule, even if you somehow didn't feel welcome by the quickest and most precise answer for which you could have hoped.

      Given my general experience, you were highly unlikely to get the couple hours of free labor from internet strangers you were requesting to dig you out of the hole you made. Often requests like yours go unanswered for days, weeks, months...

      I'm pleased to see exactly how far your "deeply indebted"-ness extended. About 8 minutes by my count. I'm especially glad that you left your post up in an attempt to help everyone else in the future who may search this sub for similar problems.

      If you give up on it or feel like it's quicker and easier to go the professional repair route for help, try the list at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      Good luck with all those springs. The Brother Deluxe 220 is a great little machine.

    2. [deleted]

      Original post by u/shapeless_nodule at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rp5mh6/brother_deluxe_220_jp1_typewriter_request_for/

      Hi All, In a fit overconfidence a couple of years ago, I bought a brother Deluxe 220 typewriter which worked fine other than being sticky. I duly tore it down, cleaned it up, oiled it, put it back together and... watched as nothing happened because somehow all of the springs had fallen out and were now sitting on my workbench. I then put it on a shelf and forgot about it, until starting a clearout last week. I would be deeply indebted to you if anyone who has this typewriter (or one of its sister models, as I understand it most of the JP-1 models are the same) take either some photos or a good video of exactly where all of the springs inside it connect to?

      Reply: <br /> This is fairly steep ask, particularly when, for a few dollars, you can get the location of all the springs in the repair manual:<br /> - https://www.lulu.com/shop/ted-munk/the-brother-jp-1-typewriter-repair-bible/paperback/product-186kzqem.html?q=brother&page=1&pageSize=4 - https://twdb.sellfy.store/brother-typewriters/

    1. The Secretary’s Day. 1947. Coronet Instructional Films. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOe0259_OuA (March 7, 2026).

      Typewriter desks with top flip functionality shown in operation at 00:32 and 01:45 and closing it up at 10:24.

      In addition to storing away the typewriter when not needed, these flip top desks also served as impromptu dust covers to keep dust out of them when not actively in use.

      Jean Carroll as secretary and Marge Quinn as stenographer.

      Paper sorter file in desk drawer at 00:55

      Appointments and diaries

      Definition of stenographer: responsible for dictation, transcription, typing, billing, filing, operate office machines like duplicators and calculators, occasional switchboard operation.

      Filing here shown as a simple presumably recent correspondence file that is kept on hand in the secretary's desk drawer rather than in a nearby filing cabinet or centralized office filing cabinet. 03:29

      "A good secretary doesn't rely on memory." (Instead she makes a permanent note.) timestamp 4:11

      Placing a long distance phone call [8:31]

    1. Advanced Typing - Shortcuts (1943)

      Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.

      Correct typing posture: fingers curved<br /> arms sloping up<br /> light fast strokes<br /> steady rhythm

      fast continuous motion of return lever<br /> using backing sheet (aka temping sheet ??)

      Shortcuts:<br /> mise en place for office supplies (she doesn't use this phrasing though) - greater efficiency - cuts down on searching

      tabulators can be helpful. There are two types:<br /> - automatic - handset

      Use tabs for paragraphs, dating letters, columns of numbers, and letter closings.

      To clear all tab stops, put carriage to left, hold tab clear key and move the carriage across. (Usually applies to Royal, Remington, Underwood, and Electromatic).

      On LC Smith and Woodstock machines sometimes have a tab clear lever on the back.

      Decimal tabulator keys help to align a variety of numbers around a decimal point. 09:43

      Always have a few tabs set to prevent a flying carriage which can be hard on the machine.

      When using carbon sheets which are slightly longer than the paper size, cut off a small triangle at the top left hand side. This makes it easier for one to separate the carbons from the copies by holding the top left with one hand and pulling the carbons out from the bottom of the stack.

      To align multiple sheets of paper for carbon copies, use a folded sheet at the top to taco the pages into the machine. Remove the folded sheet once the carbon pack is rolled forward.

      Paper bail rollers should be set to split the pages into thirds (for two rollers).

      Remington noiseless machines have a pressure indicator on the front of the machine (usually above the keyboard) which can be used when using thick carbon packs that may cause the ribbon guide to stick or bind.

      Only erase when the carriage is fully left or right to prevent eraser crumbs from falling into the machine. 15:26

      Use a soft eraser on carbon copies. Use and insert slips of paper behind the carbons and allowing them to stick out the sides, erasing from back sheet to front so as not to allow the eraser to mark your carbon copies. For the front sheet, use a shield and ink eraser and erase with a horizontal motion. After erasing, easily pull out the inserted sheets.

      When typing a correction, tap the key lightly two or three times rather than hard once.

      When in a rush and it's necessary to add a word (on double spacing), underline the last letter of the prior word and type a slash (/). Then move the typing line up and type the insertion above the prior line. This creates an "arrow" of sorts for the inserted word.

      Details for inserting extra letters in misspelled words using half-spacing machines. (Underwoods and Electromatics don't have this function.)

      Light pencil marks at the bottom of the sheet can help to indicate the coming bottom of the sheet.

      Putting up the card holders (fingers) on Underwoods and Royals. They help to hold the card and improve print quality and reduce noise.

      Card holders can cause markings on carbon packs if they're not lowered.

      Trick for quickly writing postcards in succession: Disengage the ratchet using the platen spring release (or variable platen switch) Type the address on the front of the card. When done give the platen a quick practiced spin. The postcard with "jump" up and stop at the paper table and be in position for rolling in the opposite direction to write the message on the back of the card! When done a faster spin of the platen will shoot the card over the back of the typewriter where it can land in a box to collect all the postcards which were written in such a manner. <br /> timestamp 23:22

      Time saving methods for addressing envelopes:

      • Front seat principle. Insert the envelope in the usual way and type out the address. When done, turn the envelope down through the machine with the right hand. With the left hand, place the next envelope between the top of the first envelope and the front of the platen. Feed the first envelope back through the machine (in reverse) and the second will be rolled in to place for typing. Continue in this fashion until finished. All the finished envelopes will stack up in the back at the paper table.

      • Chain feeding. The first envelope is inserted and rolled partway into the machine. A second envelope is inserted between the platen and the second envelope (behind the platen). Turn the first envelope to the writing line and type the address. Take out the first envelope and insert the next the same way as before.

      • Uses paper bail. Do the first envelope in the usual way. Spin it out of the machine up and behind the paper bail into a box behind the typewriter.

      For quickly doing labels or small cards:<br /> Create a small zig-zag fold into a piece of paper to create a pocket slot which can be scotch taped on either side. This template paper can then be inserted so that the pocket is visible above the writing line, but the paper below it is still in the platen. The label or card can be placed into the pocket and the platen reversed to feed the label or card in backwards to the desired typing line. Using a v-groove or hole in the typing line can create a pencil line to serve as a guide for inserting many labels at the same place so that the typing lines up between labels.

      Some offices had special platens for holding cards like this.

      Pockets like this can also be used to hold the page to add additional lines at the bottom of pages. Deeper pockets may need to be used for doing this with carbon packs whose carbons are longer than the pages.

      Alternately one can do something similar by creating a inverted u-shaped set of slits into an index card. to hold such labels.

      When in the midst of a page and needing to do another piece urgently, roll back the letter until about 2 inches from the top, and then place in the new page and one between each of the carbons. Then roll forward to do the short message as necessary. Turn back to the insertion position to remove the copies and then continue with the first letter where you left off.

      For drawing horizontal lines on typewriter paper, push the carriage to the extreme left and place the pencil or pen at the edge of the card guide and the scale. Then move the carriage to the right to effect the line. For vertical lines, put the carriage at the desired space and place the pencil at the card guide and scale and move the platen up/down as necessary.

    1. SHOP TALK!!! how to defeat a stripped screw head without losing your mind<br /> by [[Typewriter Justice]] on Youtube

      To help remove a stripped screw head, hit it with Kroil or a similar penetrant first. Then with a screwdriver, punch or similar tool, give it purchase on the right hand side somewhere and give it a nice whack with a hammer. This should turn the screw enough to move things along.

      Charlie attributes this trick to Dane Bailey (August 19, 1932 - April 21, 2019) of AAA Typewriter in Birmingham, AL.

    1. Michael ReesYou just eyeball it to make a cardboard template for the ends and measure the width. Don't try to make pockets for the platen knobs or the return lever. Just make the whole thing loose enough to cover the protrusions. I use 20 gauge sail window plastic so the cover is transparent.

      Via Michael Rees at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163310003194678/

      and specifically recommends https://www.sailrite.com/Plastipane-20-Gauge-Vinyl-Window-Material-54

  2. Mar 2026
    1. "Mazak" in the UK but more widely known (at least in the US, where it was developed) and in its original form as "Zamak", this metal is notorious for disintegrating (not "exploding" as some earlier poster claimed). It is also known as "pot metal" and, unhelpfully, "white metal".

      Mazak, aka pot metal, aka Zamak, is notorious for disintegrating over time. It's what can cause tab brakes on the Olympia SM7 to freeze up.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=253&p=3

    1. Addressing a COMMON FLAW in the Olympia SM7 typewriter that will ruin your day. Drawband Tab System<br /> by [[HotRodTypewriter]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-03-03T23:41:58

      Remedies for frozen tab brake system on Olympia SM7 typewriters:<br /> Drill a hole and lubricate<br /> Remove all together<br /> Remove and attempt to adjust swollen cork and then attempt to reinstall (patience testing)

    1. via Thom Cholowski at Rebel Typewriter Workshop in Saskatoon,Saskatchewan, Canada at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/4373364699567612/

      Rules of Good Repair Practices:<br /> The Success of the repair depends upon the Rapairman's ability in following the rules of good repair practices. These rules can be summed up as follows:

      1. Read the Service Bulletin thoroughly.
      2. Know what you are looking for. Never guess. Always investigate the source of trouble. Ask, if you do not know.
      3. Determine troubles by the process of elimination.
      4. Every part, no matter how small, has a job to perform. Do not overlook the smallest detail.
      5. Use the proper tool. Keep tools in efficient working order.
      6. Carefully handle smooth, plated or bakelite parts to prevent damaging or scratching.
      7. Make the repair like you would want it, if you were the customer.
    1. Nakajima All (中島オール) went bankrupt back in 2019. (Not to be confused with the Nakajima Aircraft Company.) https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO41025530X00C19A2X12000/ https://newswitch.jp/p/17807 Archive of the now-defunct website:(https://web.archive.org/web/20180816074211/http://www.nakajima-all.co.jp/) Someone might've bought the equipment from the Nakajima All factory in Indonesia and is still pumping out new ones (since the electronic typewriters Swintec sells are rebadged Nakajima All ones), but I'm not completely sure.

      via u/discardedaccounted at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1meum7j/new_typewriters/

    1. On an SG1 and an SG3 here, the right margin stop locks the printing keys as expected at x characters after the bell but not the spacebar nor tab, which both ring the bell and then blow right past the margin stop. Additionally, when the End-Of-Line lock stops the printing keys, I can continue spacing past the margin and then after about three spaces on the SG1 and about eight on the SG3 the printing keys are again active.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=27528#p27528

    1. Although the 'Mazac' tab. brake shoe problem is common, I cannot say that I have seen this before on an SG1 margin.  Interestingly, there is a similar 'exploding Mazac' problem on the ribbon reverse arm of the Olympia Model 8 post-war.  The factory probably had no idea at the time that this 'easy to die cast' metal would do this in years to come.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32384#p32384

      re: cracking house on tab sets for SG1<br />

    2. the disintegrating tab. brake shoes !  I have seen this on SM portables too - they have the same tab. brake.  As a temporary measure, you could try filing the worst of the expansion off and re-fitting.  You can also sometimes get away with having just three brake shoes instead of four.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32375#p32375

    1. [rant] As a side note, I'm wondering if this is an example of how the internet, social media, and self-publishing has contorted our designation of authoritative sources.For example, the only person I consider to be an authority on typewriters in this forum is Tom (thetypewriterman). He is the only one here (to my knowledge) who has actually been trained as a typewriter technician and has worked in the trade - long before the current crop of self-made authorities 'discovered' typewriters. Tom was actually repairing machines while some of us were still using them for school or work prior to the introduction of the personal computer.The majority of our forum members might be very experienced, some are self-learned shade tree mechanics, but to my archaic way of thinking this doesn't make someone an authority on the subject.I apologize for this obvious and distracting tangent. This is a sensitive subject for me because my own trade has been overrun by internet created, so-called experts who lack any formal training or professional experience. I throw up in mouth a little when I read, or hear the word influencer; the digital generation allows itself to be lead by those who talk the loudest, run the fanciest websites, or have the greater number of social media followers. No one seems to care if those influencers have any credentials that would validate their public opinions.These observations are not meant to slight dragon typer. I don't know who the OP's authority is, nor do I need to; however, I did cringe at the "typewriter god" description and have to wonder if this god is someone who actually worked in the typewriter industry, or is just an enthusiast like most of us here who became an influencer by way of self-promotion. [/rant]

      via Uwe at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=3521

      Amen

    1. Olympia SG1 1953-72 cleaning (technical restoration)

      Partial/very modest teardown and cleaning of an Olympia SG1. Only beginner level. No flush of machine or real blow out.

      Interestingly he uses a steel brush to get rid of the brown adhesive where the felt used to be, but doesn't replace it.

      Also demonstration of cleaning corrosion off of screw heads with steel brush on a vice.

      Carriage work starts at 06:17. He opens it up and then gives up after a modest wipe down. He does show some

      Uses a toothpick to oil the joints, but only shows a modest portion of the process.

  3. Feb 2026
    1. I'm at eleven typewriters now, with ten in working order and one that is a toy. I gave two machines away for free, and I sold one to a workmate for the same amount of money that I spent on it. My intentions to acquire and keep them changed through the three years of me being into typewriters. It started with finding a broken SG1 in the trash at the side of the street that I was able to repair. Then I was looking for a use for it, because it had found a place in my heart. I found two other machines in working order, also in the trash at the side of the street, of which I am keeping one and I have one away because it wasn't my liking. I received one as a gift from my brother-in-law that was owned by his grandfather, which is a very nice machine that makes it easier to keep for sentimental reasons. Then there is another machine that once belonged to my long-gone grandfather, which I keep for sentimental reasons and its nice techno pica typeface. This list keeps going on. So, there's a mixed bouquet of reasons I make up to keep machines and why I just can't give that specific piece away. I know I'm a hoarder, but the size of the machines keeps me in certain limits. Is it consumerist? Well, yesn't. I must admit, I would love to own a chocolate script Olympia SM3, and yes, I do like to show off my four different typefaces. I am looking to find a sixties SM9 to find out what the fuss is about in comparison to my late seventies SM9. But on the other hand, nothing beats the satisfactory achievement of finishing another three pages letter for one of my daughters. I hope they will read my lines one day and hear their daddy's voice through the paper that I touched before them and the imprints that my muscles caused. It is a piece of me, turned into ink on paper, that remains. And it is some obsolete tech that I curated/used/liked/hoarded, that will probably go into steel recycling after I'm gone.

      brief typewriter bio for u/andrebartels1977 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r3udld/thoughts_on_the_hobby/?sort=new

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rfkptq/morgan_freeman_talking_about_his_typewriter_in/

      THE MAGIC OF BELLE ISLE (Magnolia Pictures, 2012) features an Underwood standard at about the 31 minute mark.

      Morgan Freeman says: "Look at that machine. I like that you have to write a bit slower on a manual. Like the way it sounds. I like the way that the letters bite into the paper. I like that you can feel there's a genuine human being, doing the work."<br /> (doublecheck the exact quote)

    1. Even with keyring pliers and the skill to use them, the blackout paper method is a lengthy one.

      Keyring pliers are used to remove the metal rings off of both circular and tombstone glass typewriter keys so that the legends can be replaced or even covered over with black paper circles for teaching or learning typing. They take some practice and skill to use, but speed up the replacement of legends significantly.

    1. Mineral spirits are perfectly safe for key buttons. It's critical to make sure the solvent you're using really IS true mineral spirits, though.Other solvents, such as those billed as "laquer thinner" are NOT safe for plastics. That includes acetone, xylene, and any solvents containing them. I have heard that Selectric III keys are resistat to laquer thinner, but I still wouldn't use it even on a III. Laquer thinner may be applied VERY carefully after the full mineral-spirits bath using a syringe or small squeeze bottle for specific metal pivot points such as interposer pawls that tend to get extra-stuck from dried-out lubricants.

      via Rick Becker at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214

    1. That's just a post-war one. Rheinmetall typewriter factory was situated in Sömmerda, Thuringia (so far from Rhein), this way it become a soviet-owned company after 1945 and before it was returned to newly created GDR. A lot of these machines were produced to be supplied to USSR as kind of reparations payments. The layout also proves this. Here's an experimental "ЭУКЕН" layout, one of transitional variants on the way to modern "ЙЦУКЕН" (since 1953). While all the pre-war typewriters were built with 1918 layout "Й1УКЕН"

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rbydwu/soviet_era_typewriter/

    1. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10162847550852775&set=p.10162847550852775&type=3

      Olympia quality control sheets had sections for:<br /> - shift (Hh Hh Hh)<br /> - type specimen for all the characters<br /> - Black ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Red ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Stencil Test <br /> - Final Proof: "Olympia-Qualitaet findet in der ganzen Welt Anerkennung - sie verbuergt besseres Schreiben."<br /> - Line Spacing: the letter "m" at all settings<br /> - Back Spacer: "rrrrRRRR"

    1. Chuck Theile, Acme Typewriter Service and Restoration, South Lyon, MI. Machines can be dropped off at 116b N. Lafayette, South Lyon, MI. A customer writes: "They accept all makes and models for repair. The phone number there is 248-486-5205 or you can call the repairman direct (Chuck Theile) at 248-455-6778." E-mail qwertyrepair@yahoo.com. Read a story about him here and another here. "I've been repairing typers and other office equipment for nearly 4 decades. Seeing a recent resurgence in the poularity of typewriters is very gratifying. Young people in particular seem to be rediscovering these historic machines and I'm happy to be able to provide a service that's not readily available anymore.  Primarily serving the Wayne, Oakland, Washtenaw and Livingston County areas, arrangements can be made for service anywhere. I've been able to repair nearly 100% of the machines brought to me. Including many dating back to the early 1900's. Don't give up or throw it away before you let me have a go at it!"
    1. PSA. Analogy: “Hi Mr. Mechanic! Here’s my ‘72 Datsun. I’d like you to give it a tune up. Oh, by the way, I’m not a mechanic but I pulled out the steering column and took apart the starter. Here are the parts in this bag” (When a client takes apart their machine, got in way over their head and wants me to fix their mistakes. Please… I appreciate you’re experimenting, but this is a huge nightmare to me. I’ve passed on several of these machines.)

      via Todd Young https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163194812329678/

    1. reply to u/MartyFunkhoosier at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r03411/1940s_underwood_correspondent_types_very_light/

      How good is your typing technique? https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Typically you want to strike the key as if it were a hot coal and let the initial hit's momentum force the slug against the ribbon/paper/platen. If you're "bottoming your keys out" which happens more frequently when you hunt and peck, then you'll end up with a ghosting effect. Using your paper bale properly is important for clear imprints.

      If your ribbon isn't well inked (it should color your fingers when you touch it or look "wet" if it's new) that can sometimes be an issue. Beyond that, platens tend to shrink and become hard with age. As a result the machine goes out of its original proper alignment thus making your imprints lighter. You can use a second "backing" page to help make up some of the difference, but a re-covered platen (J.J. Short Associates can help in the U.S.) and a proper ring and cylinder adjustment will likely help. And if you can't afford the recovered platen (~$120) then a ring and cylinder adjustment will help nonetheless. (Check Youtube for how you might do this yourself if a shop isn't nearby.)

    1. reply to u/Yiqu at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r08q2i/buying_a_first_typewriter_for_writing/

      The first three articles you'll find under https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Market will give you a quick crash course about what to consider and look out for in your search.

      If you want to get to work, your best bet (and honestly the best value) is to get something from a repair shop that is serviced and ready to go. In the US this means a budget range typically from US$300-$600, or perhaps slightly more if they've recovered the platen which will improve your experience. Prices dramatically in excess of this often include a lot more custom work or less common typefaces which don't necessarily improve your performance (or are people selling typewriters who have less of an idea than you do about typewriters.)

      Many hobbyists here may say to get something cheap that "works", but the amount of time and knowledge you have to scaffold to do that is worth a lot of writing time, and often still requires a lot of cleaning, restoration, and potential tinkering which is even more onerous when you just want to get to writing.

      In case you haven't found them, some great resources on leveraging typewriters as distraction-free writing devices:

      And if you need some serious distraction free advice, since it's hiding as deep knowledge amongst a handful of serious collectors/writers, the bigger your (standard) machine, the more visual space it takes up as you're writing and subtly helps your concentration. Similarly placing it in front of a wall (and not a window) helps a lot too.

    1. I was in your shoes and I dove in head first. After reading, owning, and watching countless videos on the matter, here's what I have learned: Don't buy online Only buy what you can have your hands on before exchanging money Be picky, don't just get any machine on the belief you'll start fixing them. Do not view them as being "rescued" when you buy another broken machine. Start off with a solid machine with no issues. (I suggest an Olympia brand, sm-3 etc) Honorable mention: only acquire organically through yard sales, estate sales antique stores etc. It imbues your machine with magic 🪄

      via u/Forge_Le_Femme

    1. reply to u/CaliKelli989 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qx43wy/smith_corona_classic_12_for_75worth_it_for_my/ on signaling by online typewriter sales

      Where you're selling is one of the biggest signals of all. Selling machines for over $250 on Facebook requires way more signaling on the part of a professional or semi-professional seller. Mr&Mrs are doing a whole lot more work on restoring their machines than the average "blow and go" level that Janet and her significant other are likely doing (or that done by the average shop), as a result they're doing more work to show that, but they're occupying a dramatically different market space. Who is offering warranties on their work? Who is recovering platens? Who is explicitly stating the quality of the rest of their rubber? (Note that Janet isn't saying anything about the rubber washers on her SM3s, nor did they say anything about the rubber feet or the feet on the cases. Were they all replaced?)

      Most professional shops and restorers are selling via their physical shops or their own websites instead of eBay, which takes steep cuts, or FB where it's harder for their much better quality machines to stand out amidst similarly priced dirtier machines. (Most pros also refuse or prefer not to ship when they can avoid it, so online presence doesn't "buy" them much.) There's a huge gulf in the levels of work that Walid Saad or Lucas Dul are offering in complete tear downs and restorations and the simple clean, oil, and adjust operations that are being offered by average pro shops and that's different again from what I suspect Janet is probably offering. This doesn't even get into the space of the lowest level "flippers" and vintage/antique shops whose only value add is finding and offering machines. As a point of reference, Lucas is doing less than a full restoration a month in an average year. The rest is cleaning machines for straight sale and then repairs that walk in the door. I'd suspect that he doesn't have more than a dozen machines in stock that are ready for sale today compared to a multi-person operation like Typewriter Muse which has nearly 30 machines on the shelf ready to go.

      There's a huge spectrum in the level of restorations being offered out there. Very few people appreciate any of the differences.

      The issue is that many people starting out don't want to pay a lot for a clean/restored machine, so they're fine with something that "works". Generally they don't know what they're missing from a finely tuned machine. At the other end are serious collectors, who often have the knowledge and expertise to service their own machines. The biggest issue with the market is the huge gulf of information imbalance between the novice buyers and novice sellers and the professionals.

      Hope this helps on the differentiation that's available out there...

    1. Royal Typefaces from 1967 WOMDA

      • Royal Farnsworth - 11 pitch
      • Royal Pembrook - 11 pitch
      • Windsor - 10 pitch
      • Oxford - 11 pitch
      • Merit Elite - 12 pitch
      • Merit Pica - 10 pitch
      • Canterbury Elite - 12 pitch
      • Canterbury Pica - 10 pitch
      • Graphic Elite - 12 pitch
      • Graphic Pica - 10 pitch
      • Elite Century - 12 pitch
      • Contemporary Elite - 12 pitch
      • Contemporary Pica - 10 pitch
      • Executive - 9 pitch (double caps, italic)
      • Patrician - 12 pitch
      • Standard Elite - 12 pitch
      • Standard Pica - 10 pitch
      • Medium Roman - 10 pitch
      • Clarion Gothic - 12 pitch (double caps)
      • Manifold Elite, Single Gothic - 12 pitch
      • Manifold Pica, Single Gothic - 10 pitch
      • Manifold Roman, Single Gothic - 9 pitch
      • Modified Pru, Double Gothic - 12 pitch
      • Pica, Double Gothic - 10 pitch
      • Medium Roman, Double Gothic - 9 pitch
      • Small Double Gothic - 16 pitch
      • Small Elite - 14 pitch
      • Great Primer - 9 pitch
      • Farrington Optical Scanner Type 12L - 10 pitch
      • Policy Print - 10 pitch
      • Check Validation Type - 8 pitch
      • Small Spencerian - 12 pitch
      • Spencerian - 10 pitch
      • Butterick - 8 pitch (similar to Congress, but larger)
      • Large Vogue - 6 pitch
      • Small Bulletin - 6 pitch
      • Elementary Primer - 6 pitch
      • Bulletin - 6 pitch

      also has keyboard styles for Royals

    1. Typewriter-Adjacent Writing Devices<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-02-02T09:17:37

      Typewriter-like writing devices: - Privacy - security - autonomy

      Freewrite (fka Hemingwriter)

      • Smarttypewriter $699
        • Hemingway Signature $1000+
        • Valentine $999
      • Traveler: clamshell device, smaller $549
      • Alpha $349
      • Alpha Cosmic $499 with colorful keys
      • Freewrite Plus subscription service

      Remarkable

      • cloud storage or subscription
      • Starts around $400-600+

      Pomera

      • $499

      Zerowriter

      -$250 - open source, SD card, customizable keys - raspberry pi based

      Supernote

      • tablet
      • $329-500

      BYOK

      • Kickstarter; shipping now.
  4. Jan 2026
  5. www.reddit.com www.reddit.com
    1. Your alcohol is making the old oil and dust fluid again for a while, but without either fully flushing it out or blowing it out with compressed air, the solvent evaporates and the remaining solid oil/dust freezes things up again.

      Rubbing alcohol is probably one of the worst degreasers, but people recommend it because most people often have some in their house already. (Depending on the type, it also contains high proportions of water which isn't the best thing to mix with your metal typewriter.)

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means (be careful for splattering and cover the plastic and painted portions of the machine and surroundings with a rag). This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out.

      2-5 flushes can sometimes be required before you've really gotten all the old gunk out of your machine. I often wait several hours or even overnight to test the action after flushing before I re-attach body panels, etc.

      If you can acquire a small plastic oiler (see https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/) it can help to minimize the amounts of solvent you're using and the flexible tip will allow you to not only direct the flow of solvent, but create some fluid pressure when you squeeze the bottle.

      (Naturally use your degreaser in a well-ventilated space away from open flames and sparks...)

      See also: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Reply to https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qroqbf/halp/

    1. Royal Typewriter KMG Mainspring Drawband Tightened Adjusted Tension by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      On the left rear corner underneath the carriage when moved to the right, one can easily see the mainspring and drawband assembly. Just behind it is a worm drive operated by a screw. Turning this screw counterclockwise will advance the worm drive to the left and increase the tension on the mainspring.

    1. I twist together two lengths of kevlar fishing line that's 0.4mm diameter and rated for 29kg, so combined roughly 0.8mm diameter and ~58kg pull. This is about the sweet spot imo in terms of thickness, slim enough to fit in small routing holes on mainspring housings and thick enough to get a good sized knot when you tie it. It's also pretty close to the thickness of old sinew drawbands I've replaced. The rated strength is definitely overkill but better over than under. In practise a drawband shouldn't experience more than 750g-1,5kg of pull under normal use.

      u/Koponewt aka Pelicram's advice for using fishing line to replace drawbands.

    1. It's attempting to recreate a nostalgia for mid-century typewriters that were poorly registered, poorly aligned, typed with cotton ribbon, dirty slugs, and poorly typed. It's a generic version of a ubiquitous pica typeface. The vast majority of typewriters from that era were far better and clearer than the characters represented in the 1942 Report Font. Distinguishing the font from an actual typewriter would be trivial for anyone who regularly uses a typewriter.

      Typeface catalogs from the mid-century can be found here for some comparison: https://typecast.munk.org/category/typewriter-typestylesfonts/

      1942 Report font https://www.dafont.com/1942-report.font

      Reply to SadBeyond6201 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qqvvmd/1942_report_font/

    1. if there's a cheap fix to the ghosting that's coming from some of these letters, I'd appreciate it. Not sure if "ghosting" is the right term, but I'm unsure what is.

      reply to u/mcdouginshole at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qozru7/ghosting_issue_with_my_olivetti_lettera_32/

      For some additional help on technique, try https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Typically you want to strike the key as if it were a hot coal and let the initial hit's momentum force the slug against the ribbon/paper/platen. If you're "bottoming your keys out" which happens more frequently when you hunt and peck, then you'll end up with this ghosting effect.

      With some practice, maybe one day you'll be as fast as Albert Tangora?

    1. Known historical users of the Royal KMM:<br /> - John Ashbery<br /> - Russell Baker - Ray Bradbury - Richard Brautigan - Richard Brooks - Pearl S. Buck<br /> - Johnny Carson (or possibly KMG) - Norman Corwin<br /> - Frank Herbert<br /> - Helen Keller<br /> - Murray Kempton<br /> - Ken Kesey<br /> - George Washington Lee - Harper Lee<br /> - Ursula K. Le Guin - David McCullough<br /> - Margaret Mead<br /> - Dorothy Parker<br /> - Grantland Rice<br /> - Georges Simenon<br /> - Christina Stead<br /> - Tom Wolfe

      The KMM was also the typewriter featured on the 1980s hit television show Murder, She Wrote which is currently being remade in 2025/2026 with Jamie Lee Curtis.

    1. DINGMAN: Duane says that from the time he opened his typewriter shop, until about 2008, he probably repaired about 50 manual typewriters. But in 2008, something changed. His phone started ringing off the hook. Parents were calling to say that their daughters wanted a typewriter for Christmas — could they bring in an old one for him to fix up? Or did he have any for sale?JENSEN: So I asked ‘em, I said why are you interested? They said, “She watched this movie called “Kitt Kittredge.”
    2. DINGMAN: And I know you’re hooked up to an oxygen machine here — does that make it difficult?  JENSEN: No — well, yeah, mobility, and I have COPD, and I have trouble breathing. This business was part of the factor I have COPD, because I had a shop without ventilation. That’s why my lungs are not working. DINGMAN: Wait. So your lungs were damaged by doing the typewriter work? JENSEN: By the smell of the chemicals.  DINGMAN: He says his lung condition was diagnosed seven years ago.   JENSEN: They gave me a five-year life span. That was seven years ago, so I’m already beatin’ it.  DINGMAN: Ever the gambler, Duane’s still fixing typewriters. These days, he keeps a fan blowing, and works with the garage door open.
    1. Duane Jensen, J.C. Business Machines, 26th St. & Union Hills, Phoenix, AZ. 602-992-7611. M-F 9-4, but call first. "We fix business machines, including all typewriters. Manual portable, manual uprights, antique or vintage typewriters. We carry every typewriter ribbon manufactured. Basic cleaning / tune up is between $38.00 - 48.00 (walk in). On-site service. Basic repair / clean $68.00 - 88.00." Read a story about an experience with Mr. Jensen here. Website: http://www.phoenixtypewriter.com/

      Duane Jensen's death was announced by his family on 2026-01-25.

    1. reply to u/Crafty-Shape2743 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qjl76q/is_it_just_me_or/

      Regardless of their current reaction, every single person here knows that they've done the EXACT SAME THING at least once if not hundreds of times. My bet is that most STILL do it tentatively because they can't keep their fingers off the keys.

      I try to put stencil mode on for machines not actively in use to prevent ink from getting onto the platen and later smudging pages, but let's be honest that other than the ink, typing without paper isn't going to cause more damage to a machine than with it. Those who say it damages the platen will pound away with paper in and not care a whit. Those same people will also never bother to recover their platens with new material which dramatically improve the machine and the typing experience, so let's just get over ourselves on the issue of "protecting the platen"...

      I'll bet dollars to donuts that none of those who are precious about not typing on paperless platens, are pulling their paper out without releasing the paper release lever thereby slowly sanding down their platens and don't bother to leave it disengaged when they're done thereby slowly damaging and flattening their rubber rollers.

    1. reply to u/aleahey at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qjzgtq/remington_postal_telegraph_mill/

      On the paper guide, it definitely looks like a bend it back into shape issue.

      While your model is obviously decaled as "Postal Telegraph", it's not a traditional mill machine as those are generally marked by having no lower case characters and having uppercase only. Sometimes it was uppercase with some "filler character" (often a + on Remingtons, a ~ on Underwoods, and a double dot on Olivettis) or uppercase on both the top and bottom of the slug. Generally the zero character had a slash through it to distinguish it specifically from the letter "O".

      There are only two other exemplars on the typewriter database, so please be sure to upload your photos and data when you get a chance. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Remington.10+Postal+Telegraph.42.bmys You'll notice that one of the examplars by u/jbhusker doesn't appear to be a traditional mill while the other is. Perhaps James has some unwritten research on his Remington Postal Telegraph?

      If you sift through the typewriter database you'll find other examples and research (especially if you're looking at commentary under individual examples while you're logged in). As an example of mills from Underwood in their Western Union Special: https://typewriterdatabase.com/Underwood.Western+Union+Special.4.bmys

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qhokip/some_typewriter_customization_ideas/

      Besides, why go the AI route when there are so many already available custom and chromed machines out there? There is way more creativity in reality.

      Examples:

      And to be honest, if you're going to lay out some money to chrome a machine, why do it with a flimsy Skyriter? Find something showy, something honest, something substantial. Why not a Royal KMG or FP, a Remington Super-Riter, or a solid Hermes Ambassador?

      Nothing is more badass than Helen Gurley Brown's silver plated Royal Empress: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/hgbrownroyal.jpg

    1. Typewriter Profile: Comparing the Olivetti Lettera 22, Lettera 32, and Studio 44<br /> by [[Damon Di Marco]] of CreateX3.com on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-01-19T11:32:11

      Marcello Nizzoli designed the Olivetti Lettera 22, an ultra-portable, and the standard Lexicon 80. He used the automotive idea of press-forming steel to the Olivetti line.

      In 1959, the Illinois Institute of Technology chose the Olivetti Lettera 22 as the best designed product of the last 100 years. It also won the Compasso D'Oro Award in 1954.

      1963 Lettera 32 introduced<br /> Square keys

      1965 Olivetti Studio 44 introduced<br /> Between the standard and the portable<br /> Comes with a case, but is heavier than many portables

      Prefer original spools with spool nuts.

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qej21g/bulk_ribbon_source/

      We are a small typewriter shop based in the Netherlands.

      Usually we would order bulk ribbon from USA and pay 100+ euro for shipping costs and duties. The shipping mostly cost us more than the product itself and made it much harder for us financially.

      We would even combine orders with other local typewriter shops to cut the costs down.

      So we now found an alternative. Make it ourselves.

      After much testing we have found the perfect ink saturation. No bleeding. No oversaturation. Plus the ribbon should last 3-5 years when properly stored.

      We are happy to now offer 320m cotton reels (black) for other typewriter enthusiasts and shops based in Europe (we do ship worldwide, it is just much more affordable to buy local).

      A ribbon can make or break your typing. I really dislike light print or oversaturated ribbons. So zero compromise in quality.

    1. What's the diameter of the central hole? Checking if it's 4,5, or 6mm will help a lot in identifying which type of spool it is.

      Could be made by some ribbon company like Alpad who sold Olivetti compatible ribbons/spools.

      6mm diameter center holes on spools are indicative of a Gr4 typewriter spool.

      via u/Koponewt at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qcocn1/does_anyone_recognise_this_spool/

    1. On Typewriters: Condition is King; Context is Queen.

      It bears mentioning that an expert/professional repair person can only tell very little of the condition of a typewriter by photos. Does it look generally clean? Are the decals in tact? Does the segment look clean (a vague proxy for the potential condition of the internals)? Is anything obvious missing (knobs, return lever, keys)? Does it look cared for or has it been neglected in a barn for half a century? Most modern typewriters made after 1930 in unknown condition are worth about $5-25 and they peak at about $500 when purchased from a solid repair shop unless some Herculean additional restoration has taken place, they've got a rarer typeface, or are inherently actually rare. Hint: unless it's a pro repair shop or very high end collector with lots of experience, don't trust anyone saying that a typewriter is "rare", run the other direction. Run faster if they say it "works, but just needs a new ribbon" as—even at the most expensive—new ribbon is only $15 and their "rare" $600+ machine should have fresh, wet ribbon. The rule of thumb I use is that no one online selling a typewriter knows anything about it, including if it actually works. Worse, they've probably priced it at professional repair shop prices because they don't know that condition is king.

      The least experienced typist will know far more about the condition of a machine by putting their hands on it and trying it out. Does it generally work? Does the carriage move the full length of its travel? Can you set the margins at the extremes and space reliably from one end to another? Does it skip? Is the inside clean or full of decades of dried oil, dust, and eraser crumbs? Does the margin release work? Does it backspace properly? If typing HHHhhhHHH are the letters all printed well and on the same baseline?

      Presumably a typewriter at an antique store will meet these minimum conditions (though be aware that many don't as their proprietors have no idea about typewriters other than that if they wait long enough, some sucker will spend $150 on almost anything). They've done the work of finding a machine that (barely) works, housing it, and presenting it to the public for sale. This time and effort is worth something to the beginning typewriter enthusiast, but worth much, much less to the longer term practiced collector.

      If everything is present and at least generally limping along, you've got yourself a $30 typewriter. Most people can spend a few hours watching YouTube videos and then manage to clean and lubricate a typewriter to get it functioning reasonably. You can always learn to do the adjustments from Youtube videos. (Or just take it to a repair shop and fork over $200-400 to get things squared.)

      If you're getting into collecting, you'll make some useful mistakes by overpaying in the beginning and those mistakes will teach you a lot.

      Maybe you're a tinkerer and looking for a project? If so, then find the cheapest machine you can get your hands on (maybe a Royal KMM for $9 at thrift) and work your way through a home study course.

      Otherwise, if you're just buying one or two machines to use—by far—the best value you'll find is to purchase a cleaned, oiled, and well-adjusted machine from a repair shop. Sure it might cost $350-600, but what you'll save in time, effort, heartache, repair, etc. will more than outweigh the difference. Additionally you'll have a range of machines to choose from aesthetically and you can test out their feel to find something that works best for you.

      Or, you could buy a reasonable machine like this for $70 and find out it needs cleaning, oiling, and adjusting and potentially a few repairs. The repair tab might run you an additional $450. Is it worth it when a repair shop would have sold you the same or a very similar machine in excellent condition for $350?

      Remember in asking about the cost and value of a typewriter, you're actually attempting to maximize a wide variety of variables including, but not limited to: upfront money, information about the current state of the market, information/knowledge about the machine itself, information about how to clean it, information about oiling it, information about adjusting, information about repairing it, cost and availability of tools and repair parts, and the time involved for both learning and doing all of these. The more time you've spent learning and doing all of these, the better "deals" you'll find, but gaining this expertise is going to cost you a few years of life. What is all this "worth" when you just want to type on a machine that actually works?

      Most of the prognostication you'll find in fora like this will be generally useless to you because you're not readily aware of the context and background of the respondents with respect to all of the variables above. Similarly they're working with no context about you, your situation, where you live, what's available in your area, your level of typewriter knowledge, or your budget. You don't know what you don't know. At the end of the day, you're assuredly just as well off to use a bit of your intuition and putting your hands on a machine and trying it out. Then ask: "What is it worth to you?"

      If you're simply asking: "Is this highway robbery?", the answer is no.

      More resources (and some of my own context) if you need them: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Happy typing.


      Reply to u/NeverTheNess at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q7eho6/spotted_a_royal_at_an_antique_store_good/<br /> RE: run-of-the-mill late 70s plastic Litton/Royal typewriter

    1. For the average office-type chair, the sweet spot you're looking for is a tabletop about 26 inches off of the floor.

      Most modern desks have their tabletops at 28-29" off of the floor which is too high for comfortably typing on a typewriter. The larger old school typewriter desks (double and single pedestals) often had a flip top or spring loaded side compartment that brought the surface that the typewriter sat on down to a more comfortable 26" off of the floor. Similarly you'll see desk returns for these desks which are an inch or two shorter to allow for a typewriter off to the side. Many of the same tanker desks had writing drawers that pulled out to provide space over the other drawers for writing and these also make great surfaces for typewriters to be an inch or two lower than the standard height. These desks usually are heavy and take up some significant floor space.

      From the 1920s, a variety of manufacturers made stand-alone typewriter stands, typically with two drop leaves on either side and wheels to give one easy space for their typewriter that didn't take up a huge footprint and could be moved around the office or home as needed. Similar to these in the modern furniture space, you might find a variety of side tables or occasional tables with tabletops at a more comfortable 26-27" for your typing.

      For off-label use cases, you could try a counter-height stool (24-26") as a temporary typewriter stand to pair with most standard office chairs. Generally bar stools are much taller in the 36" range, so don't do this unless it's your intention to type standing up.

      I've got a 20 drawer library card catalog with a tabletop height of 36.5" that makes an excellent height for a standing desk for typing.


      reply to u/The-Wolf-Bandit at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q6e8oo/what_do_you_guys_have_your_typewriters_on/

  6. Dec 2025
    1. In the typewriter space, the closer you get to the people actually manufacturing typewriter ribbon, the cheaper it gets. As a result you can buy ribbon in bulk for about US$2 per spool versus $10-15. In America, I've had excellent experience with Baco and Fine Line: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Ribbon

      Mostly on Amazon and similar platforms you'll find resellers selling for top dollar. If you're going to do this, then the better route is to spend the same (or possibly a bit less) and get your ribbon from a local typewriter shop which helps keep them in business for the eventual day you'll need a more serious repair or help. Try a local shop from the list at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      If they're close, your local shop will also help teach you how to respool ribbon and thread it properly as well as potentially other tips and tricks.

      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q095fg/just_bought_a_typewriter_any_tips/

    1. reply to u/Wheather819 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q0a17w/another_newbie_question/

      Totally a matter of preference! Just don't type directly onto your platen without any paper at all.

      Almost any paper even into the heavier card stocks will usually work in most machines. I've seen people go Jack Kerouak style and do integral rolls of paper, type on rolls of receipt paper, brown paper bags, envelopes, postcards, labels, and even scrap paper.

      For me it's often index cards.

      stacks of index cards on a library card catalog with a sandstone yellow colored Royal FP typewriter

      Searching this sub for paper will give you lots of ideas.

      If you want to go crazy, Lenore has some fun tips with specialty papers, carbon paper, and cards in her film on advanced typing: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/#Advanced%20Typing

    1. reply to u/14Papa19 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q0dt1e/new_to_us_remington_streamliner/

      Try spooling the ribbon manually in one direction or the other for a foot or so to get to ribbon that's not dried out and you may be in luck and not need to replace it right away.

      Ribbon purveyors: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you've got the original Remington metal hubs (which are needed for the auto-reverse functionality), keep those as they're expensive to replace. Spool your new ribbon (1/2" wide and typically comes on 2" diameter plastic universal spools) from cheap plastic spools onto your originals.

      If you don't have the original metal hubs, you can call around to repair shops for replacements (which may be the cheapest route) https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html. Ribbons Unlimited also sells these hubs with ribbon attached, but it's more expensive to do this, but once you've got them, you can buy ribbon by itself for much cheaper in the future and just wind the new ribbon onto existing spool hubs.

      Here's some useful videos which might help you out in terms of how to spool up your ribbon:<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTFM54VKKc4 (Slightly different model to yours, but same spool mechanisms) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWQTa4b7jPs (This one has some advice about using a Remington without the spools.)

      If you needs some tips on color matching your typewriter to a desk or your fountain pen: https://boffosocko.com/2024/03/22/acquisition-remington-streamliner-196x-portable-typewriter-in-metallic-mint-blue/

      For more on use and maintenance: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Good luck and happy typing!

    1. p5

      GENERAL CARE-Reasonable care will insure years of satisfactory performance from your typewriter. A typewriter's principal enemy is dust. Keep typewriter covered when not in use. Clean the typefaces occаsionally with a brush to remove accumulated lint and ink.

      Do surface not clean your typewriter's with alcohol as it is injurious to the finish. Once in a while you may put a drop of oil on each of the two rails on which the carriage moves and then rub it off again. Never attempt to oil the typebars or any other part of the mechanism as this may have a tendency to gum and clog the working parts.

    1. I recently replaced the belts on my Sears Celebrity Power 12 (a Smith Corona rebrand if I understand correctly) that were shedding perished rubber with Gates 3M315 Polyflex V-Belts. The typewriter is much happier now; no more bouncing middle wheel or rattling and the impressions are much clearer. Before the smaller punctuation characters (-_.,) had about a 75% success rate, now they work great.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1pypbrf/minimum_impression_maybe_too_heavy_on_sears/

      Gates 3M315 polyflex v-belts

    1. reply to u/rawbran30 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1py74mf/internet_hype_trendeffect_and_brand_popularity/

      Olympias were imported into the US from the 50s into the 70s and were manufactured at peak typewriter engineering and manufacturing methods before machines slowly got cheaper and cheaper in terms of materials and craftsmanship through the 60s and into the early 80s before typewriters were subsumed by the word processor market.

      Compared to Smith-Coronas and Remingtons of the 50s and early 60s (their peaks), Olympias are slightly better manufactured in terms of fit and finish. They're also slightly more modern looking in terms of body shapes and colors compared to other machines, which also helps to drive up price amongst collectors.

      Now is an Olympia SM3 or SM9 really so much better than a Smith-Corona Silent Super that they should enjoy an almost 2x jump in price for an unserviced model? Potentially not, but if this is your issue, then buy something from a professional shop that's been cleaned, oiled, and adjusted and a lot of the price differential evaporates.

    1. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1794856020751839/?multi_permalinks=4308967442674005

      A reasonable sounding version of why not to use some of the commonly suggested methods for rejuvenating platens.

      If you wish to attempt to lower the Shore A hardness of your typewriter platen temporarily, I would recommend applying a more compatible mixture of xylene (non-polar solvent), Methyl Alcohol and Methyl salicylate (wintergreen oil) in a 3 to 1 to 1 ratio such as is found in the product called Rubber Renue from M.G. Chemicals. All the necessary chemicals are available on Amazon, and you can make it by the litre for pennies compared to the commercial product.

    1. This is a persistent myth. Tolerance has nothing to do with it -- even in high-precision machine tools machined to within a thousandth of an inch, oil is necessary to reduce sliding friction and prevent wear. (In fact, super-flat bearing surfaces will even have deliberate channels cut to allow oil to stick.) Review some old service manuals and you'll find detailed lubrication instructions. This old Remington manual, for example, has a chart at the end specifying four different types of oil for different parts of the mechanism; this Typewriter Repair Training Course describes several methods for lubricating entire machines; and this Army manual suggests basically hosing the machine down with light oil. I suspect many people get the impression that oil is bad because very old oils, before the invention of modern synthetic oils and greases, tend to gum up into a sticky paste as they oxidize and separate over time. (Some pre-WWII greases were based on animal fat, and would go rancid!) Combine that with fifty years of cat hair and dust and the machine seizes up entirely. Modern synthetic light oils and greases should last much longer.

      u/capnrefsmmat reply to

      u/lodger238 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hslx56/huh_i_thought_wd40_was_horrible_as_a_lubricant/<br /> Agree completely and to further the point; typewriters were manufactured with low tolerance in many areas just so they wouldn't need lubricating.

    1. I speak from my experience on Olympia typewriters, and my engineers degree says the same: The most inner portion is not intended to recurve. Main springs wind in one direction, all the way. In this status, it's not usable. But fear not, you can rescue it. I rescued a main spring that had the inner connector broken off. Main springs (like all springs) tend to be very tough steel. You can simply break the faulty portion off. Then, you clamp the new end in grip pliers that double as a grip and a heat sink. A vice will do the same, but will be very finicky with the narrow curvature of the spring. Let that piece of the spring that you intend to bend into your new connector peek out of the pliers. Get a blow torch and heat that tiny piece to a bright red glow, then bend it one-third of the intended bend. Heat again, bend again, and once again. And now comes the most important part, the annealing: Take the spring out of the heat sink. Carefully apply heat to the new connector and the first tiny piece of the spring with your blow torch. You want to warm the connector, the bend and approximately 5mm or ¼ inch of the untouched spring. Don't allow it to glow. It may only make slight orange traces in the flame, but no more. Pull the flame away slowly, don't let it crash cool, don't blow on it, don't put it in water. Don't burn your fingers in the process. Your main spring is shorter now, but it will work just fine. Welcome to the world of typewriter blacksmiths.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/TypewriterRepair/comments/1pbnomi/mainspring_twisted/

    1. Reply to u/banksclaud at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1pf09vb/please_help_surprise_my_son/

      Etsy can often have people flipping machines without having any work done, so be careful on what price you're paying for what you're getting. If it's over $350, it ought to fully serviced and have some sort of guarantee. Otherwise, find something at your local repair shop: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      This question is asked so often, I've written up some good general advice which should apply to your child: https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/29/first-time-typewriter-purchases-with-specific-recommendations-for-writers/ For the age and your desire not to be bulky, go for a portable machine and not a larger standard or the more finnicky ultra-portables.

      Some might opt for the brighter colored typewriters for kids for the "fun" factor, but I've found, having done a few type-ins with a huge variety of machines, that it's often the adults that are drawn to the colorful machines (which tend to be less well-built and plastic-y/cheaper) while kids will respond well to the older, duller vintage machines.

      Here's a few 1950's advertisements directed at parents of kids just for fun: <br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTrkDa-GuSI<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOIRul7pXDY

  7. Nov 2025