1,586 Matching Annotations
  1. Last 7 days
    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qhokip/some_typewriter_customization_ideas/

      Besides, why go the AI route when there are so many already available custom and chromed machines out there? There is way more creativity in reality.

      Examples:

      And to be honest, if you're going to lay out some money to chrome a machine, why do it with a flimsy Skyriter? Find something showy, something honest, something substantial. Why not a Royal KMG or FP, a Remington Super-Riter, or a solid Hermes Ambassador?

      Nothing is more badass than Helen Gurley Brown's silver plated Royal Empress: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/hgbrownroyal.jpg

    1. Typewriter Profile: Comparing the Olivetti Lettera 22, Lettera 32, and Studio 44<br /> by [[Damon Di Marco]] of CreateX3.com on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-01-19T11:32:11

      Marcello Nizzoli designed the Olivetti Lettera 22, an ultra-portable, and the standard Lexicon 80. He used the automotive idea of press-forming steel to the Olivetti line.

      In 1959, the Illinois Institute of Technology chose the Olivetti Lettera 22 as the best designed product of the last 100 years. It also won the Compasso D'Oro Award in 1954.

      1963 Lettera 32 introduced<br /> Square keys

      1965 Olivetti Studio 44 introduced<br /> Between the standard and the portable<br /> Comes with a case, but is heavier than many portables

      Prefer original spools with spool nuts.

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qej21g/bulk_ribbon_source/

      We are a small typewriter shop based in the Netherlands.

      Usually we would order bulk ribbon from USA and pay 100+ euro for shipping costs and duties. The shipping mostly cost us more than the product itself and made it much harder for us financially.

      We would even combine orders with other local typewriter shops to cut the costs down.

      So we now found an alternative. Make it ourselves.

      After much testing we have found the perfect ink saturation. No bleeding. No oversaturation. Plus the ribbon should last 3-5 years when properly stored.

      We are happy to now offer 320m cotton reels (black) for other typewriter enthusiasts and shops based in Europe (we do ship worldwide, it is just much more affordable to buy local).

      A ribbon can make or break your typing. I really dislike light print or oversaturated ribbons. So zero compromise in quality.

    1. What's the diameter of the central hole? Checking if it's 4,5, or 6mm will help a lot in identifying which type of spool it is.

      Could be made by some ribbon company like Alpad who sold Olivetti compatible ribbons/spools.

      6mm diameter center holes on spools are indicative of a Gr4 typewriter spool.

      via u/Koponewt at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qcocn1/does_anyone_recognise_this_spool/

  2. Jan 2026
    1. On Typewriters: Condition is King; Context is Queen.

      It bears mentioning that an expert/professional repair person can only tell very little of the condition of a typewriter by photos. Does it look generally clean? Are the decals in tact? Does the segment look clean (a vague proxy for the potential condition of the internals)? Is anything obvious missing (knobs, return lever, keys)? Does it look cared for or has it been neglected in a barn for half a century? Most modern typewriters made after 1930 in unknown condition are worth about $5-25 and they peak at about $500 when purchased from a solid repair shop unless some Herculean additional restoration has taken place, they've got a rarer typeface, or are inherently actually rare. Hint: unless it's a pro repair shop or very high end collector with lots of experience, don't trust anyone saying that a typewriter is "rare", run the other direction. Run faster if they say it "works, but just needs a new ribbon" as—even at the most expensive—new ribbon is only $15 and their "rare" $600+ machine should have fresh, wet ribbon. The rule of thumb I use is that no one online selling a typewriter knows anything about it, including if it actually works. Worse, they've probably priced it at professional repair shop prices because they don't know that condition is king.

      The least experienced typist will know far more about the condition of a machine by putting their hands on it and trying it out. Does it generally work? Does the carriage move the full length of its travel? Can you set the margins at the extremes and space reliably from one end to another? Does it skip? Is the inside clean or full of decades of dried oil, dust, and eraser crumbs? Does the margin release work? Does it backspace properly? If typing HHHhhhHHH are the letters all printed well and on the same baseline?

      Presumably a typewriter at an antique store will meet these minimum conditions (though be aware that many don't as their proprietors have no idea about typewriters other than that if they wait long enough, some sucker will spend $150 on almost anything). They've done the work of finding a machine that (barely) works, housing it, and presenting it to the public for sale. This time and effort is worth something to the beginning typewriter enthusiast, but worth much, much less to the longer term practiced collector.

      If everything is present and at least generally limping along, you've got yourself a $30 typewriter. Most people can spend a few hours watching YouTube videos and then manage to clean and lubricate a typewriter to get it functioning reasonably. You can always learn to do the adjustments from Youtube videos. (Or just take it to a repair shop and fork over $200-400 to get things squared.)

      If you're getting into collecting, you'll make some useful mistakes by overpaying in the beginning and those mistakes will teach you a lot.

      Maybe you're a tinkerer and looking for a project? If so, then find the cheapest machine you can get your hands on (maybe a Royal KMM for $9 at thrift) and work your way through a home study course.

      Otherwise, if you're just buying one or two machines to use—by far—the best value you'll find is to purchase a cleaned, oiled, and well-adjusted machine from a repair shop. Sure it might cost $350-600, but what you'll save in time, effort, heartache, repair, etc. will more than outweigh the difference. Additionally you'll have a range of machines to choose from aesthetically and you can test out their feel to find something that works best for you.

      Or, you could buy a reasonable machine like this for $70 and find out it needs cleaning, oiling, and adjusting and potentially a few repairs. The repair tab might run you an additional $450. Is it worth it when a repair shop would have sold you the same or a very similar machine in excellent condition for $350?

      Remember in asking about the cost and value of a typewriter, you're actually attempting to maximize a wide variety of variables including, but not limited to: upfront money, information about the current state of the market, information/knowledge about the machine itself, information about how to clean it, information about oiling it, information about adjusting, information about repairing it, cost and availability of tools and repair parts, and the time involved for both learning and doing all of these. The more time you've spent learning and doing all of these, the better "deals" you'll find, but gaining this expertise is going to cost you a few years of life. What is all this "worth" when you just want to type on a machine that actually works?

      Most of the prognostication you'll find in fora like this will be generally useless to you because you're not readily aware of the context and background of the respondents with respect to all of the variables above. Similarly they're working with no context about you, your situation, where you live, what's available in your area, your level of typewriter knowledge, or your budget. You don't know what you don't know. At the end of the day, you're assuredly just as well off to use a bit of your intuition and putting your hands on a machine and trying it out. Then ask: "What is it worth to you?"

      If you're simply asking: "Is this highway robbery?", the answer is no.

      More resources (and some of my own context) if you need them: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Happy typing.


      Reply to u/NeverTheNess at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q7eho6/spotted_a_royal_at_an_antique_store_good/<br /> RE: run-of-the-mill late 70s plastic Litton/Royal typewriter

    1. For the average office-type chair, the sweet spot you're looking for is a tabletop about 26 inches off of the floor.

      Most modern desks have their tabletops at 28-29" off of the floor which is too high for comfortably typing on a typewriter. The larger old school typewriter desks (double and single pedestals) often had a flip top or spring loaded side compartment that brought the surface that the typewriter sat on down to a more comfortable 26" off of the floor. Similarly you'll see desk returns for these desks which are an inch or two shorter to allow for a typewriter off to the side. Many of the same tanker desks had writing drawers that pulled out to provide space over the other drawers for writing and these also make great surfaces for typewriters to be an inch or two lower than the standard height. These desks usually are heavy and take up some significant floor space.

      From the 1920s, a variety of manufacturers made stand-alone typewriter stands, typically with two drop leaves on either side and wheels to give one easy space for their typewriter that didn't take up a huge footprint and could be moved around the office or home as needed. Similar to these in the modern furniture space, you might find a variety of side tables or occasional tables with tabletops at a more comfortable 26-27" for your typing.

      For off-label use cases, you could try a counter-height stool (24-26") as a temporary typewriter stand to pair with most standard office chairs. Generally bar stools are much taller in the 36" range, so don't do this unless it's your intention to type standing up.

      I've got a 20 drawer library card catalog with a tabletop height of 36.5" that makes an excellent height for a standing desk for typing.


      reply to u/The-Wolf-Bandit at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q6e8oo/what_do_you_guys_have_your_typewriters_on/

  3. Dec 2025
    1. In the typewriter space, the closer you get to the people actually manufacturing typewriter ribbon, the cheaper it gets. As a result you can buy ribbon in bulk for about US$2 per spool versus $10-15. In America, I've had excellent experience with Baco and Fine Line: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Ribbon

      Mostly on Amazon and similar platforms you'll find resellers selling for top dollar. If you're going to do this, then the better route is to spend the same (or possibly a bit less) and get your ribbon from a local typewriter shop which helps keep them in business for the eventual day you'll need a more serious repair or help. Try a local shop from the list at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      If they're close, your local shop will also help teach you how to respool ribbon and thread it properly as well as potentially other tips and tricks.

      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q095fg/just_bought_a_typewriter_any_tips/

    1. reply to u/Wheather819 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q0a17w/another_newbie_question/

      Totally a matter of preference! Just don't type directly onto your platen without any paper at all.

      Almost any paper even into the heavier card stocks will usually work in most machines. I've seen people go Jack Kerouak style and do integral rolls of paper, type on rolls of receipt paper, brown paper bags, envelopes, postcards, labels, and even scrap paper.

      For me it's often index cards.

      stacks of index cards on a library card catalog with a sandstone yellow colored Royal FP typewriter

      Searching this sub for paper will give you lots of ideas.

      If you want to go crazy, Lenore has some fun tips with specialty papers, carbon paper, and cards in her film on advanced typing: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/#Advanced%20Typing

    1. reply to u/14Papa19 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1q0dt1e/new_to_us_remington_streamliner/

      Try spooling the ribbon manually in one direction or the other for a foot or so to get to ribbon that's not dried out and you may be in luck and not need to replace it right away.

      Ribbon purveyors: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you've got the original Remington metal hubs (which are needed for the auto-reverse functionality), keep those as they're expensive to replace. Spool your new ribbon (1/2" wide and typically comes on 2" diameter plastic universal spools) from cheap plastic spools onto your originals.

      If you don't have the original metal hubs, you can call around to repair shops for replacements (which may be the cheapest route) https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html. Ribbons Unlimited also sells these hubs with ribbon attached, but it's more expensive to do this, but once you've got them, you can buy ribbon by itself for much cheaper in the future and just wind the new ribbon onto existing spool hubs.

      Here's some useful videos which might help you out in terms of how to spool up your ribbon:<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTFM54VKKc4 (Slightly different model to yours, but same spool mechanisms) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWQTa4b7jPs (This one has some advice about using a Remington without the spools.)

      If you needs some tips on color matching your typewriter to a desk or your fountain pen: https://boffosocko.com/2024/03/22/acquisition-remington-streamliner-196x-portable-typewriter-in-metallic-mint-blue/

      For more on use and maintenance: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Good luck and happy typing!

    1. p5

      GENERAL CARE-Reasonable care will insure years of satisfactory performance from your typewriter. A typewriter's principal enemy is dust. Keep typewriter covered when not in use. Clean the typefaces occаsionally with a brush to remove accumulated lint and ink.

      Do surface not clean your typewriter's with alcohol as it is injurious to the finish. Once in a while you may put a drop of oil on each of the two rails on which the carriage moves and then rub it off again. Never attempt to oil the typebars or any other part of the mechanism as this may have a tendency to gum and clog the working parts.

    1. I recently replaced the belts on my Sears Celebrity Power 12 (a Smith Corona rebrand if I understand correctly) that were shedding perished rubber with Gates 3M315 Polyflex V-Belts. The typewriter is much happier now; no more bouncing middle wheel or rattling and the impressions are much clearer. Before the smaller punctuation characters (-_.,) had about a 75% success rate, now they work great.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1pypbrf/minimum_impression_maybe_too_heavy_on_sears/

      Gates 3M315 polyflex v-belts

    1. reply to u/rawbran30 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1py74mf/internet_hype_trendeffect_and_brand_popularity/

      Olympias were imported into the US from the 50s into the 70s and were manufactured at peak typewriter engineering and manufacturing methods before machines slowly got cheaper and cheaper in terms of materials and craftsmanship through the 60s and into the early 80s before typewriters were subsumed by the word processor market.

      Compared to Smith-Coronas and Remingtons of the 50s and early 60s (their peaks), Olympias are slightly better manufactured in terms of fit and finish. They're also slightly more modern looking in terms of body shapes and colors compared to other machines, which also helps to drive up price amongst collectors.

      Now is an Olympia SM3 or SM9 really so much better than a Smith-Corona Silent Super that they should enjoy an almost 2x jump in price for an unserviced model? Potentially not, but if this is your issue, then buy something from a professional shop that's been cleaned, oiled, and adjusted and a lot of the price differential evaporates.

    1. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1794856020751839/?multi_permalinks=4308967442674005

      A reasonable sounding version of why not to use some of the commonly suggested methods for rejuvenating platens.

      If you wish to attempt to lower the Shore A hardness of your typewriter platen temporarily, I would recommend applying a more compatible mixture of xylene (non-polar solvent), Methyl Alcohol and Methyl salicylate (wintergreen oil) in a 3 to 1 to 1 ratio such as is found in the product called Rubber Renue from M.G. Chemicals. All the necessary chemicals are available on Amazon, and you can make it by the litre for pennies compared to the commercial product.

    1. This is a persistent myth. Tolerance has nothing to do with it -- even in high-precision machine tools machined to within a thousandth of an inch, oil is necessary to reduce sliding friction and prevent wear. (In fact, super-flat bearing surfaces will even have deliberate channels cut to allow oil to stick.) Review some old service manuals and you'll find detailed lubrication instructions. This old Remington manual, for example, has a chart at the end specifying four different types of oil for different parts of the mechanism; this Typewriter Repair Training Course describes several methods for lubricating entire machines; and this Army manual suggests basically hosing the machine down with light oil. I suspect many people get the impression that oil is bad because very old oils, before the invention of modern synthetic oils and greases, tend to gum up into a sticky paste as they oxidize and separate over time. (Some pre-WWII greases were based on animal fat, and would go rancid!) Combine that with fifty years of cat hair and dust and the machine seizes up entirely. Modern synthetic light oils and greases should last much longer.

      u/capnrefsmmat reply to

      u/lodger238 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hslx56/huh_i_thought_wd40_was_horrible_as_a_lubricant/<br /> Agree completely and to further the point; typewriters were manufactured with low tolerance in many areas just so they wouldn't need lubricating.

    1. I speak from my experience on Olympia typewriters, and my engineers degree says the same: The most inner portion is not intended to recurve. Main springs wind in one direction, all the way. In this status, it's not usable. But fear not, you can rescue it. I rescued a main spring that had the inner connector broken off. Main springs (like all springs) tend to be very tough steel. You can simply break the faulty portion off. Then, you clamp the new end in grip pliers that double as a grip and a heat sink. A vice will do the same, but will be very finicky with the narrow curvature of the spring. Let that piece of the spring that you intend to bend into your new connector peek out of the pliers. Get a blow torch and heat that tiny piece to a bright red glow, then bend it one-third of the intended bend. Heat again, bend again, and once again. And now comes the most important part, the annealing: Take the spring out of the heat sink. Carefully apply heat to the new connector and the first tiny piece of the spring with your blow torch. You want to warm the connector, the bend and approximately 5mm or ¼ inch of the untouched spring. Don't allow it to glow. It may only make slight orange traces in the flame, but no more. Pull the flame away slowly, don't let it crash cool, don't blow on it, don't put it in water. Don't burn your fingers in the process. Your main spring is shorter now, but it will work just fine. Welcome to the world of typewriter blacksmiths.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/TypewriterRepair/comments/1pbnomi/mainspring_twisted/

    1. Reply to u/banksclaud at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1pf09vb/please_help_surprise_my_son/

      Etsy can often have people flipping machines without having any work done, so be careful on what price you're paying for what you're getting. If it's over $350, it ought to fully serviced and have some sort of guarantee. Otherwise, find something at your local repair shop: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      This question is asked so often, I've written up some good general advice which should apply to your child: https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/29/first-time-typewriter-purchases-with-specific-recommendations-for-writers/ For the age and your desire not to be bulky, go for a portable machine and not a larger standard or the more finnicky ultra-portables.

      Some might opt for the brighter colored typewriters for kids for the "fun" factor, but I've found, having done a few type-ins with a huge variety of machines, that it's often the adults that are drawn to the colorful machines (which tend to be less well-built and plastic-y/cheaper) while kids will respond well to the older, duller vintage machines.

      Here's a few 1950's advertisements directed at parents of kids just for fun: <br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTrkDa-GuSI<br /> - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOIRul7pXDY

  4. Nov 2025
    1. Royal KMM basic introduction

      Looks like a post-war standard Royal KMM, sometimes best known as the machine used by Jessica Fletcher in the TV show Murder She Wrote (as well as the upcoming Jamie Lee Curtis reboot.)

      Richard Polt has you covered for the manual and some repair manuals/information.

      Some contemporaneous videos on use and maintenance may help.

      As for ribbon replacement, try this video. The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on 1/2 inch wide universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse. If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these spools or you can get them (and ribbon) from a local typewriter repair shop.

      Ribbon purveyors: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I prefer Baco and Fine Line for their spectacular pricing and quality.

      Other known historical users of the Royal KMM:

      • John Ashbery
      • Russell Baker
      • Ray Bradbury
      • Richard Brautigan
      • Richard Brooks
      • Pearl S. Buck
      • Johnny Carson (or possibly KMG)
      • Norman Corwin
      • Frank Herbert
      • Helen Keller
      • Murray Kempton
      • Ken Kesey
      • George Washington Lee
      • Harper Lee
      • Ursula K. LeGuin
      • David McCullough
      • Margaret Mead
      • Dorothy Paraker
      • Grantland Rice
      • Georges Simenon
      • Christina Stead
      • Tom Wolfe
    1. https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1p42tr1/typewriter_ribbon/

      It's a small metal ring/hub that fits onto the ribbon spindle. You can call around to repair shops for replacements (which may be the cheapest route) https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html. Ribbons Unlimited https://ribbonsunlimited.com also sells these hubs with ribbon attached, but it's more expensive to do this, but once you've got them, you can buy ribbon by itself for much cheaper in the future and just wind the new ribbon onto existing spool hubs.

      Here's some useful videos which might help you out: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTFM54VKKc4 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWQTa4b7jPs (This one has some advice about using a Remington without the spools.)

    1. On some typewriters, there is a feature called the End Of Line Lock which has this effect on the key action. Its purpose is to prevent inadvertent typing when the carriage is at the right margin. It is a bar across the width that prevents the links from going through their whole range. When that lock is stuck has the effect you are seeing at every position. Now, in this case it may not be stuck by dirt or bent parts but instead by the lack of its return spring. So, inspect the action until you understand how it works on this tw (It's triggered by a part on the carriage hitting the right margin stop, which causes that bar to move into position to block the type linkages.) and look for a place where a return spring might be missing or disconnected. Fix that. This might not be your actual problem but it is the most likely.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1p24iee/remington_deluxe_only_works_when_vertical/

    1. For the ribbon vibrator portion, they had to choose at least one key to check, and likely choose one of the repair person's favorite default alignment keys.

      It's used in alignment because the capital H is both wide and tall and the lower case h goes above the midline which neither m nor n do. On serifed faces (especially), the HHHhhhHHH combination creates a pretty nice visual baseline to ensure the the type has the proper "motion" and is "on feet". These Hs at both ends of the platen and in the center help to check print evenness when doing the ring and cylinder adjustment. They're also useful when adjusting the level of the line indicator though other letters like m, n, z, and k aren't bad either. Letters like v and i are thinner or almost non-existent on the baseline in comparison.

      They also frequently use the / character which extends both above and below most other characters to ensure proper alignment with respect to both a bichrome ribbon and the strike against the platen. You want a nice even imprint from top to bottom. % is also good for this as well.

      Some of the repair manuals at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html as well as some of Ted Munk's manuals available through the typewriter database describe many of these adjustments and suggest specific letters for easier visual inspections.

      I'd be curious to hear other repair people's favorite letters and characters.

      Incidentally, for installing ribbon, many but not all manuals will suggest putting the bichrome setting to red and then simultaneously pressing the G and H keys so that their typebars gently jam together just in front of the typing point. This raises the ribbon vibrator to its highest point and makes it easier to thread the ribbon into it.

      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ovt8ry/but_why_the_h_key/

    1. reply to u/SlumberCrow at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1orwxqq/type_writer_leaving_small_divets_in_paper_when/

      A new platen will certainly help, but it's also a question of having a proper ring and cylinder adjustment across the length of your platen and segment. Often letters that punch through tend to be the . , and o which are at the extreme end of the segment. Some machines have adjustment screws at either end of the carriage and the adjustment should be checked at not only the center of the platen but both ends. If you don't have an experienced mechanic who knows how to do all of this properly you can easily get issues which will most often show up at the far ends of the the segment/platen.

      Beyond a proper adjustment, it's also the case that the surface area of the . and , are smaller than other characters and so they tend to get more force even when actuated by the weaker fingers on the right hand when touch typing. Some older manuals and training films will suggest putting less pressure on these keys when typing. This is likely even more important for those who hunt-and-peck and are likely using the full force of their index fingers.

      Unless your ribbon is obviously dry or marginal, replacing your ribbon isn't likely to help much. Slugs are made out of hardened steel and you'd have to do something incredibly drastic to damage the slugs, so don't sweat that too much. Backing sheet will help as a stop-gap particularly on machines with older/hardened platens, but there's only so much help that will do without a good platen and a properly adjusted machine.

    1. reply to question about tension control at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1orxtvt/strange_lever/

      Joe Van Cleave has a great video on this with respect to the Smith-Corona 5 series that will give one an idea on the entirety of adjustment points that are at play in some typewriters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYOXgqiHBmg

      Personally, I've yet to run across a vintage Series 5 machine whose user-facing control lever was adjusted in a way such that it did anything at all because the linkages were so far out of whack. I suspect this may be the case on a lot of vintage machines.

      On some machines the adjustment isn't controlling the amount of finger force one must apply, but it's controlling springs relating more to the return of the typebars and the slugs so that touch typers can type much faster without having issues with typebar return jamming things up.

      Further, on many machines the dynamic range of forces involved is so narrow that most hobbyist and occasional typists aren't going to really notice a significant difference. This may be different for those who are more experienced and used to typing on a manual machine for several hours a day.

    1. When your left pinkie is the weakest finger and the 1 key is the longest reach, who cares on a mechanical typewriter? Even my later Smith-Coronas with a dedicated 1, I still use a lower case "l". It's probably more of a distraction for those who hunt and peck and expect the 1 to be up there with the rest of the numbers.

      I'm irked that the lower case "l" on my computer doesn't give me the number 1. I'm even more irked on my Royal FP with Clarion Double Gothic that I have to remember to do a capital "I" to get the 1 and end up with either a lower case "l" or sometimes even an upper case "L".

      I also have a macro for searching my computer drafts for asterisks so that I can change them to the appropriate apostrophes because my laptop keyboard is just wrong. I've got half a dozen different language keyboards installed on my computer, I just wish one of them was 1950's Royal Standard!

      reply to u/Obvious-Bug-5214 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1or7eb6/no_1_keydoes_anybidy_miss_it/

    1. Symptom: Ghosting lines overlaying typed text:

      This is assuredly not a type slug cleaning issue and the secret is that the loops in the letters like "a", "e", "o", etc. are clear. The lines are caused by the paper not being held to the platen, so when the slug hits, you're getting ink from the other part of the slug transferring to the paper. The remedy is to tuck the paper underneath the paper bale and rollers.

      If one still sees issues after this then check your manual to ensure that the ribbon is properly threaded followed by a check that the ribbon vibrator isn't bent too far away from the typing point and too close to the platen and causing the ribbon to rub against the paper.

    1. This is something for the category of 'most interesting things found inside of a typewiter'. As I was inspecting and preparing to test a new-to-me SC 5LE, when I opened the ribbon cover, I saw this. I wish I had taken a better picture of what i looked like after I got the shell off of the machine, but I was pretty intent on getting it outside and making sure it wasn't inhabited. I ID'd it later as a mud wasp/mud dauber nest.

      via Patty Perkins at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10162788538859678/

      mud wasp/mud dauber nest in a typewriter<br />

    1. Hunting for Typewriter Accessories - YouTube<br /> by [[Just My Typewriter]] - Sarah Everett accessed on 2025-11-01T22:07:29

      Estate sales often have interesting office supplies and paper in desks.

      2:45 typewriter ribbon tins; made out of tin, cardboard, paper<br /> sometimes tins come with spools or spare parts

      5:35 Typewriter ribbon display kits and pieces

      6:58 Typewriter case keys<br /> She's collected images of case keys to know what to buy.<br /> She's got a buying guide on her website with photos.

      10:04 Typewriter key tops

      13:20 typewriter brushes and cleaning products, blower brushes, typeslug cleaners,

      15:25 Typing books, user manuals, Typatune,

      16:29 Typewriter toys; often in the $25+ range

      17:23 Typewriter advertisements<br /> Sarah often purchases these online and uses them in her videos.<br /> Underwood fingernail polish advertisements

      19:15 Typewriter playing cards (advertisement)

      20:13 Typewriter related postcards

      20:45 Typewriter books:<br /> - references; lots online; - Anthony Casillo - Typewriters (coffee books) - Michael Adler: Antique Typewriters - Paul Robert and Peter Weil - Iron Whim by Darren Werschler-Henry - non-fiction, history, - books written by other collectors<br /> - Tom Hanks' Uncommon Type<br /> - Olivetti by Allie Millington

      Crescent City Books in New Orleans - has typewriters as decoration

      25:03 Typewriter community collectors/creators<br /> - Lucas Dul - The Williams Typewriter (Loose Dog Press) - Loose Dog Press series<br /> - Woz Flint - The Distraction-Free First Draft<br /> - Richard Polt - The Typewriter Revolution (after thought)

      28:43: Typewriter Magazines - ETCetera - Novellum Magazine (Writing related)

  5. Oct 2025
    1. There were at least two different mechanisms that S-C used to regulate the Power Space and I am unfamiliar with one of them. Start by taking off the bottom panel so you can see what's going on. Operate the power space while watching what is moving and then you should be able to understand what's involved. The system That i know switches out the regular escapement regulation (the dogs activated by key and spacebar linkages) for an independent one wherein the dogs are instead controlled by a fat rubber finger that gets diddled by a yoke that is powered by the otherwise free motion of the carriage. That's when it is working. Now, tho, it's not right. Most common fault is with the pivot for that linkage. See if that yoke feels sloppy. There is a white plastic screw with a divot in the inner end to hold and allow adjustment of the bearing of the yoke. That pivot screw is threaded through a hole in the frame and locked with a metal locknut and the thing loosens over the decades, allowing slop in controlling the dogs. If you're lucky the threads can be coaxed into holding a fresh adjustment. Do not force or overtighten it. Incidentally, the speed of the Power Space action can be adjusted by the position of that yoke hitting the rubber finger; that should not need adjustment, but keep it in mind. Your cause could be something else, but the normal operation of the escapement working with the keys and spacebar indicates that the escapement is basically OK. Cleaning never hurts, though.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1oi6808/space_runs_too_fast_with_loud_buzzing_sound_plz/ reply via u/ahelper

    1. Courtesy of @Pelicram ❤ : Peli's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight. This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level. The recipe: 70% Light machine oil. 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits. Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying. Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application. Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.,Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.,Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.,Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.

      https://discord.com/channels/639936208734126107/639938269030907914/1302694827682697330

      Pelicram's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight.

      This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level.

      The recipe: - 70% Light machine oil. - 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits.

      Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying.

      Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application.

      • Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.
      • Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.
      • Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.
      • Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.
    1. Wershler-Henry does not confine himself to human users of the typewriter. He also tells us about monkeys, as in the hypothetical question “If you put a bunch of monkeys in front of typewriters, how long would it take them to compose the works of Shakespeare?” This question originated as part of the theory of probability, and it has been tested. According to Wershler-Henry, the world record for Shakespeare-reinvention belongs to the virtual monkeys supervised by Dan Oliver, of Scottsdale, Arizona. On August 4, 2004, after the group had worked for 42,162,500,000 billion billion monkey years, one of Oliver’s monkeys typed, “VALENTINE. Cease toIdor:eFLP0FRjWK78aXzVOwm)-‘;8.t . . .,” the first nineteen characters of which can be found in “The Two Gentlemen of Verona.” Runner-up teams have produced eighteen characters from “Timon of Athens,” seventeen from “Troilus and Cressida,” and sixteen from “Richard II.” Did these monkeys get federal funding?
    1. Does it feel like the typebars are catching in the guide, or something binding deeper in the machine? If it's the guide (this is going to sound crazy), grasp the top of the typebar and sort of wiggle it side to side in the segment. Not overly forceful as you don't want to bend the segment slots, but just enough to allow the spring steel to realign. Test, and adjust if needed. It sounds kind of unhinged, but this is the fix for most American made machines that have bars getting stuck in the guide. I've done this with Royals, Coronas, and Underwoods in front of clients before and they look at me like I'm an idiot wizard. Ha If the top of the bar is seriously bent this won't work and you'll need a repair person to use some side alignment pliers, but if the bar is just tweaked it usually works very well with a bit of practice. My unsubstantiated belief of why this occurs is US companies using the same grade(if not the same company) of steel in their bars that tend to be a little softer than their European competitors. *You DON'T want to try this with an Olympia or other German made machines. 😅 If it's coming from deeper in the machine, check the linkages to make sure they're not tweaked and binding against each other. Hope this helps!

      advice via Nashville Typewriter, a repair person. <br /> https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1o4qxvn/chasing_problems_stuck_keys/

    1. https://typecast.munk.org/2022/11/25/montgomery-ward-typewriters-1941-1985-signatures-forwards-and-escorts-and-why-certain-rare-royal-typefaces-can-be-found-on-brother-typewriters/

      According to Ted Munk, "Spencerian Script only occurs on Montgomery Ward Brothers and not on any other Brother-manufactured machines"

    1. reply to u/EdmundDante718 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1o5x527/missing_carriage_releases_on_scm/

      It's incredibly common for these 6 series Smith-Coronas to have broken plastic carriage release levers (a major design flaw). You can call around to shops with parts machines for original replacements. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      There are numerous YouTube repair videos and ideas including these few I've bookmarked before, though there are surely others: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNcQvfUk23s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb9VlrKcXcM

      I've not seen anyone 3-D print a version (yet), but designs for one might be floating around out there.

      I've also seen people jury rig all sorts of plastic replacements which is an option as well.

      In practice, you generally only need one working one for your dominant hand.

    1. Cleaning Type Slugs Fast ! Removing Clogged Dirty Ink Typewriter Service How to Shine Those Faces by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Duane cleans type slugs by draping the typewriter with cloths and then using a metal bristle brush and lacquer thinner. Small picks or an X-Acto knife can help to remove gunk from the interiors of the closed letters.

      He also uses tape to cover up the red paint on the word "De Luxe" so that the lacquer thinner doesn't damage it.

      He finishes off with a small shot of Nu-trol, which is a degreaser with some lubrication, and then follows up with a shot of compressed air to thin it out.

    1. The slugs are the metal pieces at the ends of the assemblies that start at the tops of the keys and go through the key levers attach to the segment (the semi-circular metal comb-like part in the "basket") via the typebars. The slugs are the ones that have the backward characters on them and when they hit the ribbon cause the letters to be applied to the paper. Over time the small loops of the characters can get filled with dust, dirt, ink, and bits of ribbon and as a result the type on your page isn't as crisp and good looking as you'd like.

      Here's a handful of videos with a variety of methods for cleaning one's slugs: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s8tE6P0YMQ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgSAS45WGI0 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKGipBLA5Eo

      You'll notice that for the day-to-day cleaning that people are using kneadable erasers, silly putty, or products like Bergeon Rodico 6033-1 as cleaning compounds for pulling ink and dust out quickly.


      There are some good basics and a great glossary in Hints for a Happy Typewriter: https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      I've also collected some great mid-century short films on use and basic maintenance here: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Other resources you might find interesting: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      reply to u/DatLonerGirl at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1o33p7n/when_was_the_last_time_you_cleaned_your_slugs/

    1. Royal KMM FPE HH KH 10 T1 B64 Typewriter Ribbon Install Rewind Respool Replace by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (Ten, H, KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, RP, HH, FP, Empress, 440, 660, etc.) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse.

      The function of the mechanism is fairly similar to that of the Remington, but the mechanism is on the spool itself rather than on the spindle.

      If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these metal spools: https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/6N064-Royal-Standard-Electric-Ribbon-64-p/6n064.htm

    1. Tools of the typewriter trade by [[Retrotype]]

      Excellent overview of many of the basic tools for typewriter repair. Didn't have the strongest grasp of all the tools' specific names, but good enough for describing their general use cases.

      Example of a typewriter toolset including a case made for telephone company repair, but which works with typewriters.

      • Shore A durometer gauge 2:22
      • nylon fishing/picture hanging wire spec to 25kg (for drawband replacement)
      • thick waxed string/yarn for repairing fishing nets (for drawbands)
      • nitrile gloves (to prevent staining, issues with mineral spirits, and other caustic chemicals)
      • XPower pressure blower for blowing out dust/dirt and mineral spirits. (smaller than an air compressor)
      • nail grooming set with tweezers, picks, etc. (not technically necessary, but sometimes useful)
      • dental tools (for use as spring hooks)
      • Renaissance micro-crystalline wax (non-corrosive, made for British Museum, good on marble, wood, leather, etc. Good on bare metal for treating previously rusted metal. (It's recommended to use an abrasive polish for improving the shine of glossy paint however)
      • Pouch and set of precision screwdrivers (he only uses the flatheads though the set includes other) Prefer hollow ground tips which are squared off rather than wedges.
      • Chapman bit set of screwdrivers (with hollow ground tips) He prefers these for hard to remove screws. Issue that it's a bit thicker at the tip.
      • Liquid wrench penetrating oil for helping to loosen screws (he likes this better than WD-40)
      • brash wire brushes
      • steel wire brushes (uses less frequently as they're more abrasive)
      • pouch of precision wrenches (imperial and metric) his are bladed, Moody tools wrenches (mfg.) prefer the thinnest tips
      • microfiber cloths
      • jig for soldering typeslugs on typearms
      • pouch with various typewriter specific pliers:
        • 3 prong pliers (total of 9 prongs) for making bends/forming typebars (especially making bends in the middle of bars rather than the end.;
        • peening bend pliers;
        • bending pliers for sideways bends esp. with thinner typebars;
        • vertical adjustment pliers (with rollers) not good for making adjustments of 3mm or more;
        • forming pliers with screws on the end to rotate heads for bending, peening and cutting;
        • peening pliers (bending by metal displacement)
      • Magnetized screwdrivers
      • forceps
      • screw grabber (active capture)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
      • nylon brushes for dusting
      • needle nose pliers
      • t-bender with slotted head for forming metal
      • small bottles for mineral spirits and sewing machine oil. They have small metal tips for precision application.
    1. Standard Typewriter Ribbon Notes for the US:

      Here's a handful of places: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1 I've really liked ribbons from either Baco or Fine Line, but you can also get them from your local repair shop, who'll appreciate the business more than Amazon will, and it'll help keep them around for when you may need a full overhaul.

      You'll want the Universal spools of 2" in diameter with 1/2" wide ribbon (in Nylon, Silk, or Cotton), but honestly, if you've got original metal spools on your machine, those usually work best, so spool your new ribbon from the cheap plastic spools onto your originals.

      Reply to u/PatriotMike1 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nya3bb/looking_for_ribbon_for_this_typewriter/

    1. reply to u/Ag_2402 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nwl0jb/brother_charger_11/

      Remove the ribbon and compare what's happening bilaterally. Use the mirror symmetry of the two sides and the ribbon reverse functionality to puzzle out what's wrong. Is something stuck? Broken? Bent? Missing? Comparing the broken side to the working side should help to solve the puzzle.

      Look closely at the mechanics of what's going on. Are the gears turning at all? Is there a pawl that holds the forward motion properly? Does something need to be bent back into place? Is there a missing spring perhaps?

      Beyond this doing searches for ribbon advancement on YouTube (especially Phoenix Typewriter's channel) may unearth some illustrative help.

      Some of the advice here may be helpful: https://typewriterdatabase.com/RD-Typewriter-Tips.index.manual

    1. Some of the letters are consistently struggling to print properly, like a, w, q, etc. I've cleaned the typebar section multiple times which seemed to help initially but it continues to be an issue, I'm not sure what could cause only certain letters to print incorrectly.

      reply to u/peachaphrodite at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nwu77s/sears_scholar_specific_letters_are_faint/

      Issue with light imprints on a, w, q, etc.

      Are you a touch typist or a two finger hunt-and-peck typist?

      Solely based on the letters, I'll guess there's nothing wrong with the machine and that you're a newer touch typist whose two weakest fingers on your non-dominant hand just need some exercise to get a better imprint. I'd guess the same happens to your z and x as well, but you use them less. Practice typing about your "qwaze axes and saws" a few times a day for a week to improve your finger strength and technique.

      If you're a hunt-and-peck person, then your typebars may need some gentle forming/fine adjustment using some specialist tools to give better imprints. Those letters on the ends of the segment more often go out of alignment than others. If this is the case, try: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

  6. Sep 2025
    1. Wilhelmshaven: The Emperor's beloved city destroyed in the war<br /> by [[NDR.de]]<br /> accessed on 2025-09-30T15:02:51


      I found a video about Wilhelmshaven in 1965 in the vintage section of a German broadcast service. The video is all German. It was made in 1965 and shows how the city developed through the decades. It is 17 minutes long, and the time from 6:30 to 8:30 is dedicated to Olympia Typewriters. You'll see a breathtaking amount of SG1s, workers correcting the letter alignment, workers taking measures on machines, and workers assembling machines in a huge workshop with a deafening typewriter rattle going on. <br /> via r/typewriters u/andrebartels1977 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nun0is/olympia_nerds/

    1. Nakajima Daisywheel Typewriter Part 2 - YouTube<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]]<br /> accessed on 2025-09-27T15:15:18

      The Nakamima WPT-150 is manufactured by Mitsunami Asia(S)Pte Ltd. in Indonesia and is sold in other countries as the model AX-150, which may help in finding supplies, print wheels, etc. for it.

      nadist.com has repair manuals and parts lists as well as specifications

      They sell six different models of which the WPT-150 is the least expensive.

      Joe is a little more cognizant of the typing delay time of the Brother and it's seemingly non-existent for the Nakajima.

      JVC tested the words per minute speed for the Nakajima using polar opposite characters on the daisy wheel.

    1. reply to u/GrandRevolutionary99 at https://reddit.com/r/stationery/comments/1nrkuqf/i_need_help_to_create_my_own_letterhead_for_my/

      Typewriter enthusiasts often use 100% cotton or high linen content papers with weights in the 32 pound range for 8.5x11. This gives you some nice tactile feel, but will also feed into most typewriters, even with a solid backing sheet. If you want to do thicker card stocks, then you might opt for a bigger standard typewriter which generally have larger diameter platens and more easily handle much thicker paper (they were meant for doing carbon packs up up to 10 sheets or more.)

      When it comes to the look of your letters, you can generally choose between silk (clean, crisp imprints), nylon (almost as clean as silk, but with more "grain"), and cotton typewriter ribbon (which leaves a very grainy/old timey and "typewriter-y" imprint). Comparisons here.

      I've got a small fleet of typewriters and prefer to use the pica sizes for personal correspondence. I also tend toward the cursive or Vogue typefaces for those as well.

      In the US, a lot of stationers have pre-cut paper and envelopes for 6-3/8" x 8-1/2" paper which is a good size sheet for quick notes. My typewriter pen pal Tom Hanks' most recent letter to me was on a custom page of 7.125 x 10.25" and had space for design at the top and bottom with some reasonable space in the middle. If you do custom designs, be sure to order a box or two of plain stock to use as second, third, etc. pages behind your first page if you tend to write over your first page.

      Naturally custom designing your own can be fun as well, but get a few samples of the size and weight you want and try them out before ordering in quantity.

      Lenore Fenton can give you tips on making carbon copies of your letters if you want to keep them for your own files while sending out the originals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0

      Searching r/typewriters for stationery, letterhead, paper, etc. might give you some ideas as well.

    1. The buyer pays, select USPS as the Shipping method, and then uses Pirateship to actually purchase the label from USPS or UPS. This provides a small upside on shipping, which helps cover the high packing costs. Shipping typewriters is just inherently expensive, and if you pay retail, you are going to take a bath every time. Also, you need to buy supplies in bulk from a commercial supplier. Had to learn this the hard way after eBay charged someone $40 for shipping, and when I got to FedEx it was 90+the like 25 I spent on retail shipping supplies. Now have shipping supplies down to about $12 a machine and never have a negative on shipping costs.
    2. reply to u/firefox2061 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nqpvbk/i_ended_up_with_a_1957_olympia_sm3_trying_to_sell/

      Take a close look at the online shops that are selling restored machines to see how they're signaling cleaned and restored machines. Professional photos, videos, and type samples will help significantly. The market picks up closer to the holidays and will help you realize greater value.

      As you surely know, the bottom of the market for these in unknown condition and potentially shaky/iffy shipping is $120 and professionally cleaned, oiled, and adjusted is in the $550 range (without a new platen).

      Shops actively servicing machines and putting on new platens are going to quote in the range of $150-180 for the roughly $100 recovering + their labor. It's rare in the market that buyers truly appreciate the value of a new platen. (Most don't even appreciate the value of a serviced typewriter either.) You're much likelier to get someone paying better rates when they can see and test the machine in person to appreciate how clean and well aligned it is.

      You statement about the typeface is off (presuming I found the right listing) as this is very definitely not a Congress face. Try again using: https://typecast.munk.org/2011/04/23/1964-nomda-blue-book-olympia-font-styles/

      You should also specifically mention that you've replaced the rubber body gaskets that commonly have compression problems on these SM3s.

      Including a facsimile copy of the manual may also be helpful: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      See also: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/23/typewriter-repair-costs-and-valuation-professional-shops-versus-collectors-versus-first-time-buyers/

    1. RE: poor type quality on the "!" via u/TheGuyAtThePlace265 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1no1whe/poor_definition_on/

      Lots of things can cause this in rough order, check:

      Clean the slugs

      Ribbon can have an effect. Silk is generally crisper than nylon which is crisper than cotton.

      The paper can have an effect depending on the thickness and general grain.

      Typing technique can play a part. Often you'll see issues including ghosting and other problems, particularly if you bottom out a key while typing.

      Are you using a backing sheet?

      Is your platen rock hard or has it been re-covered?

      Is your ring and cylinder adjustment properly done?

      The most frequently abused slugs are often the ones at the the ends of the segment and 1/! definitely qualifies. Sometimes a small bit of forming can clear things up.

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1no7d47/customizing_a_machine/

      Hot Rod Typewriter has done some lovely paint jobs on typewriters. Check out Gerren's YouTube, Insta, and other socials for examples. You'll see examples of his work float by on the typewriter database from time to time as well.

      Richard Polt's book Typewriter Revolution (2015) book has a whole chapter with photos on custom machines including a Twolympia which puts the internals of an SM9 into the body of an SM3.

      I've seen gold, nickel, and chrome plated typewriters which are always fun. I'd love to do a nickel plate of my own one day.

      Sadly, the most involved I've done so far is when my daughter loved my Clarion double gothic Royal FP, but wanted to have it in the pearlescent gray, so I swapped all the Sandstone (yellow) body panels from a another one I picked up just for the swap.

      u/BlindAssassin111 had some cool custom made leather handles he showed off the other day: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nm8eit/made_my_own_leather_handle_for_a_carrying_case/

    1. reply to u/todddiskin at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nlodr0/how_do_you_use_your_machines/

      Some various recent uses:

      • I've got writing projects sitting in two different machines.
      • I use one on my primary desk for typing up notes on index cards, recipes, my commonplace "book", letters, and other personal correspondence.
      • I use a few of my portables on the porch in the mornings/evenings for journaling.
      • One machine in the hallway is for impromptu ideas and poetry and an occasional bit of typewriter art.
      • One machine near the kitchen is always gamed up for adding to the ever-growing shopping list.
      • I'll often get one out for scoring baseball games.
      • Participating in One Typed Page and One Typed Quote
      • Typing up notes in zoom calls - I've got a camera mount over a Royal KMG that has its own Zoom account so people can watch the notes typed in real time.
      • Labels for folders, index card dividers, and sticky labels.
      • Addressing envelopes.
      • Writing out checks.
      • Typecasting
      • Hiding a flask or two of bourbon (the Fold-A-Matic Remingtons are great for this)
      • Supplementing the nose of my bourbon and whisky collection.

      At the end of the day though, unless you're Paul Sheldon, typewriters are unitaskers and are designed to do one thing well: put text on paper. All the rest are just variations on the theme. 😁🤪☠️

      see also: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/search/?q=typewriter+uses

    1. reply to u/Educational-Big-7383 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nkb6ga/why_olympia/

      It probably doesn't hurt that Olympia was manufacturing some of the best machines at the height of typewriter manufacturing including the use of great materials (strength, durability), design, and general craftsmanship in the 20th century.

      Many of these also tended to be late models which were sold in cases, so they tend to be younger, cleaner, and in much nicer condition that the majority of other typewriters out there, and condition really matters a lot when attempting to compare models. As an extreme, but illustrative comparison, a 1930s Royal portable that was pounded out and left in a barn isn't going to hold a candle to an SM3 that was lightly used and lovingly kept in a closet.

    1. reply to u/BudgetSprinkles3689 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nkbw85/serial_number_location/

      What is the purpose of a serial number? What does it do for you? There are serial numbers on things all around you; do you know where all of those are? The VIN number on your vehicle maybe?

      People now are only using them to approximate manufacturing dates for fun, but they were generally only used by the factory or repair people to identify specific machines and/or tie issues after manufacture back to production line problems. Do they need to be easily accessed or visible for these purposes? The people who really need them generally know exactly where they are and how to find them.

      Sometimes they're used to create inventories for owners or in cases of theft, but these generally aren't common uses that need high visibility. Because they can be removed or defaced, should they be put in easily findable and accessible places?

      Generally they're stamped in at the factory during production on integral parts of the machine during assembly. As a result, they can often be hidden or covered up by parts (especially exterior panels and body styling) added later. If it's on an exterior, easy-to-remove part, what good is it?

      If it helps, here's a diagram of some common locations:

      img

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ngt1u4/questions_about_going_into_the_typewriter_business/

      Based on your original post, I thought you might have been further along with resources, but this makes me wonder a bit, so I'll add some materials for you. Start here: https://boffosocko.com/2024/10/24/learning-typewriter-maintenance-and-repair

      Repair manuals:

      Other resources: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Be sure to register for an account on the typewriterdatabase.com as that will give you access to more material and research than a non-logged in user.

      There are a few "young" folx out there who have recently done what you're considering, and knowing a few of them may help. Reach out if you feel comfortable doing so:

      Consider a trip to QWERTY Fest which is coming up soon.

      Good Luck

    1. It took years to acquire a Model O at a price I could afford. It's my dream machine. The other 8 or 9 machines are now being donated to Goodwill, where most came from. I only need one machine and this is it.

      quote of u/RickBuxton at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nfg9tt/im_new_but_obssessed/

      Example of someone who likely should have gone to a typewriter shop and bought a well-adjusted and clean typewriter from the start and it would have saved them time, effort, and money.

      8 machines * $30 per machine = $240 plus time, energy, travel, shipping, etc.

    1. When you were under contract at MGM, were you writing longhand and then giving it to a transcriber?  Yeah. My secretary. It’s almost as though I swore once I got out of the newspaper business that I’d never look at another goddam typewriter. I like writing with a pen. As a matter of fact, I think the less distance there is between you and a piece of blank paper, the better it works out.

      https://www.todlippy.com/writing/interviews/bad-day-black-rock

    1. New ribbons should look wet and get your fingers a bit inky when you touch them, but shouldn't be dripping ink. I've certainly bought new ribbon that was on the dry side and needed to return it. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      Beyond this, your machine may need a ring and cylinder adjustment. Check YouTube for this. Most platens now are typically rock hard and have shrunken a bit, so recovering the platen is always helpful. You can use a backing sheet or two as a stopgap if necessary, but a new platen and proper adjustment will make a world of difference.

      reply to u/asdrubalino99 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1n7c1x1/faded_ink_help/

    1. Collectability in typewriters is different for almost everyone. I like mid-century standards, some only like pre-1900 machines, some red typewriters, some toy typewriters, some less common typefaces, and still others prefer plastic 70s portables. Some treat them like Pokémon and "gotta catch them all".

      Typewriters as a whole are all "collectibles"... What is your specific definition and criteria (value, rarity, popularity, etc.)?

      In aggregate, knowledgeable pricing may help you determine the most collectible ranking them by most expensive. But by this ranking there aren't many of us who can buy even a single Sholes and Glidden or collect the typewriters of famous authors like Steve Soboroff.

      ETC Magazine did a rarity versus desirability survey a while back of some serious collectors: https://www.antikeychop.com/mostwantedtypewriters

      Interestingly, on this list you won't find many of the most collected typewriters out there as ranked by general "popularity" including machines like the Hermes 3000 or the Olympia SM3.

      The Typewriter Database also has some data (albeit skewed) of the most "popular" machines ranked based on how many examples have been uploaded by collectors: https://typewriterdatabase.com/popular.0.typewriter-models

      All these rankings are highly subjective though, so, again, you should figure out what's most interesting to you and create your collection from there. Figuring this out is half the fun of doing this as a hobby.

      reply to u/WRSD605 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1n6nhts/remington_16/

    1. Both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line offer black/red bichrome ribbon in most of these materials for an incredibly reasonable price:

      • nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard
      • silk ribbon $0.33 to $0.40/yard
      • cotton ribbon $0.25/yard

      If you're going to buy even 3-6 spools of ribbon at individual prices of $9-20 per spool, you may as well make the investment in a half or full reel of inked typewriter ribbon and save yourself a lot of hassle. This will bring your spool of ribbon price down into the $2-4 range.

      Ribbons Unlimited is great, but their prices on most ribbon is comparatively really high because part of what they're selling you is the information about which spools will fit your machine. This is fine if you get a typewriter without spools at all, but if you've got original spools, you can get really great ribbon for a fraction of the price and spool it onto your extant spools.


      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1n58ivm/working_on_my_first_restoration_royal_arrow/

  7. Aug 2025
    1. Royal Century - Silver Seiko Typewriter Review - YouTube<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]]<br /> accessed on 2025-08-28T11:37:07

      Broadly a review of the Royal Century made by Silver-Seiko, but he also compares the performance with the Hermes Rocket/Baby and the Smith-Corona Skyriter, which he feels aren't as solid as the Century despite their lighter weight and portability.

    1. Avoiding Internal Typewriter Distractions - YouTube<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]] <br /> accessed on 2025-08-28T11:08:56

      Typewriter distractions<br /> - troublesome mechanical issues<br /> - need for finger strength - poor imprint

      Well-tuned standard typewriters are excellent for minimizing distractions, especially internal ones.

      Joe Van Cleave thinks the 5TE Smith-Corona electric typewriters are the best of their class.

    1. It depends in my opinion. Many variables with this company and what you seek as well as preferences. Do you want a three bank typewriter? I would go with an Erika 2 for a three bank typewriter. Do you want a more modern typewriter? Perhaps an Erika 10 is a good choice.  Do you want a certain font? Maybe Fraktur? (Good luck finding one for cheap however) Erika 5 would be a good choice for fonts maybe. Do you want a rare and collectable model? Go with an Erika 20. They have basket shift too. I would personally avoid the newer models, such as the Erika 50. They aren't great in my preference, but you decide! There are many different models for different people, but the main company that produced Erikas, which is Seidel & Naumann, also created the "Ideal" brand of typewriters. S&N is responsible for a lot of typewriters.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mqcu0f/erika_typewriters_i_am_looking_to_potentially_get/<br /> via LeSwiss1886

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mp43lf/a_sticky_shift_issue_olympia_sm9/

      Over time, dust and oil can clog up in the bearing and along the track that the segment glides up and down on causing this sort of issue. You can flush it out with mineral spirits (or something similar) while you actuate the shift key to remedy the issue. When you're done, then add back a drop of light (sewing) machine oil.

      While you're at it, most basket shift machines load them with large springs to assist with the weight and to help the return. They're typically attached to metal brackets that can be easily formed with pliers to either increase or decrease the force as necessary to suit your touch and preferred response. (YouTube videos may help here if necessary.)

      If that doesn't remedy it, then take the hood off and look closely at the mechanism to see if something is physically impeding it.

    1. Reply to Joe Van Cleave at https://typewriterdatabase.com/show.21270.typewriter

      It's probably a subtle difference, but is this machine provide the standard 6 lines per vertical inch or due to the taller ascenders/descenders is it a 4 lines per vertical inch machine?

      If you need a "name" for this machine, I might suggest "Satchmo". In doing some research on Louis Armstrong's 5 series Smith Corona, I'm pretty sure his 5 series also had this same vertical script. None of the features on any of the photos I could find of his machine are subtle enough to distinguish which particular model of Smith-Corona he was using. If we find a good direct photo of the machine itself, I'm sure I could puzzle out which version he used. By 1955 he had at least one machine with a script face (see: https://www.louisarmstronghouse.org/virtual-exhibits/my-fifty-fifth-birthday-celebration-happy-birthday-louis-armstrong/). It doesn't appear to be Smith-Corona's common Script (Artistic) No. 75 , but more like Script No. 46. Based on a version of this photo (https://www.usatoday.com/gcdn/presto/2019/07/15/USAT/d815dddc-c0b8-4c54-b9b5-719886d4a0cc-02_Armstrong_Louis_16.jpg?width=1292&height=1320&fit=crop&format=pjpg&auto=webp) it would seem that it's the Smith-Corona that was the script machine (as opposed to his earlier Remington).

      According to Ted Munk's post on the S-C Vertical script: "Smith Corona is offering the [vertical] typeface as 'Script No. 46', 10 Pitch by 1954."

      Joe's video of his 1952 Smith-Corona this with the same vertical script https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH6mwmoN_LI

      See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mo4wbg/what_typewriter/

      Somewhat interesting that Louis Armstrong played cornet, wrote on a Smith-Corona, and lived in the Corona neighborhood of Queens, NY.