1,586 Matching Annotations
  1. Mar 2025
    1. Almost every portable and ultra portable typewriter made from the 1930s onward came with a case that the typewriter locked into. On almost all of these the top of the typewriter case was easily removeable from the base with a spring loaded locking mechanism of some sort. This allowed the user to sit in almost any chair and use the typewriter on their lap. The thin case bottoms prevent dirt and oil from soiling one's clothes.

      Beginning in the late 60s/early 70s some manufacturers began making plastic tops that clipped onto the typewriter bodies, but often these are more brittle and prone to breaking/shattering due to the type and age of the plastic. (I'm looking at you Remington Streamliners...)

      Our cat used to love "hiding" in the wooden case tops of my 1940s and 1950s Smith-Coronas (Clippers, Sterlings, Silents, Silent Supers).

      It's really only the larger and much heavier standard machines that didn't come with cases at all.

    1. Why don't sellers include type samples in their ads? I mean, it's the core function of a typewriter. It's the reason for this machine to exist in the first place. Are these people so ignorant that they only see the decorative aspect of typewriters? I've even seen machines in "perfect working order" for horrendous prices without a type sample. This is so ridiculous. How on earth could I find a machine with a nice typeface? How do I see if a machine is well aligned? And most of these strange people don't even bother to send a type sample on request, because "the ribbon is dry". Dang!

      reply to u/andrebartels1988 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jcsp6t/rant_over_online_sellers/

      No, they're either ignorant or actively trying to hide the fact that their machine was bought for $5 at a yard sale and they're trying to match the pricing of pro shops that have cleaned, oiled, adjusted and repaired a machine which far exceeds the misery they're selling because they have absolutely no idea what goes into a good machine.

      People doing the work to show type samples and video of their machines are usually far, far more legitimate. These people are also going to give you $2 of new ribbon for free with purchase.

      Without a type sample or video, all but the rarest machines aren't worth more than $20.

    1. I found on etsy: TheModernTypewriter that sells ribbons. Are they any good?

      I've never used them. They're probably alright. Looks like they're specializing in engraved spools more than anything. My guess is that they're buying ribbon in bulk from Baco or Fine Line and passing along the cost and adding some additional profit.

      Here's typical bulk pricing:

      nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard cotton ribbon $0.25/yard If you can get a spool's worth of nylon ribbon (16 yards) for about $1.50 to $3, do you really want to pay $8 or more plus shipping? If I'm going to do this (usually for small quantities of custom colored ribbon), I'm going to buy it from a local shop to help support them and keep them open.

      There are obviously lots of options you can choose from, ultimately you'll do what works best/quickest/cheapest for you.

    1. Tested 100s of heavy desk typewriters, Here is the top 5 revealed. by [[Mr & Mrs Vintage Typewriters]]

      Top Five Standard Typewriters:<br /> - Imperial 55 - Imperial 70 (after this they went to cheaper plastic parts); removable carriage, swappable typefaces; removeable core - Hermes Ambassador - removable carriage - Underwood Standards, esp. 5 - Royal 10 (carriage shift); (and subsequent incarnations like the KH, KMM, KMG, HH, FP) - Olympia SG1 (the "crown jewel" of desktop typewriters)

      Also rans: - Olivetti Lexicon, Olivetti Graphica - Contintental m40 & m20 - Mercedes

    1. reply to u/bethcano at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1j3z646/whats_a_fair_price_these_days_for_a_hermes_3000/

      In the US I've been seeing them go for around $250 based only on photos without any additional information about whether they work or other condition.

      Platforms like eBay and ShopGoodwill.com will allow you to search for actual sales (see the advanced settings) and this will give you a much better picture of what the prices are versus people listing them for several hundred more (usually to match the prices of professional shops that are listing theirs in cleaned, oiled, and adjusted condition). (Remember when shopping: Condition is king!)

      See:

      Keep in mind that prices may be dramatically different in your country based on how ubiquitous they were when they were originally manufactured.

      Expect to add $150-200+ for script or rarer typefaces, and another \~$150 if the platen has been recovered.

      $550 would not be uncommon if purchasing a pica or elite Hermes 3000 with a standard typeface in generally good cosmetic shape that's been professionally cleaned, oiled, and adjusted by a shop.

    1. A furtherrefinementinmaking two-colourribbonsisthe useofacentreliningmachine, which automatically drawsathininsulatinglineon theribbon.A transparentgumsolutionispumpedbyairpressure througha stainless needle whichpreventsthecolours from running.

      Center lining machines are used to make bichrome typewriter ribbon. It operates by drawing an insulating line on the ribbon and transparent gum solution is pumped through a needle using pneumatic pressure to keep the two colors from running into each other.

    1. I dissolved some oil paint in machine oil, in my first tries I used universal machine oil but it was too thick, so I tried sewing machine oil that was much thinner. That worked much better but it was still a bit too thick so I was having some trouble “making it run” along the ribbon, so I used lighter fluid as a thinner. It worked great. I eyeballed everything so I can’t give proportions of the ingredients, in a future more serious attempt I plan to take some measurements.

      https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/38178621

  2. Feb 2025
    1. https://www.google.com/books/edition/System/sjnnAAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=typewriter&pg=PA536&printsec=frontcover

      There was no office machinery at all–the typewriter was known but scarcely used. Even telephones were rarities. The card index, the filing cabinet, the loose-leaf ledger were all but unknown. Of course there were no calculating machines.

      System, the Magazine of Business, volume XLII, Number 5, November 1922, p536, "What 55 Years in Business Taught Me About Managing: The first installment of the biography of John H. Patterson, founder of the National Cash Register Company and Lately Chairman of the Board" by Samuel Crowther.

    1. Correcting Bad Typing Habits with the Smith Corona Electric Typewriter 63024 by [[PeriscopeFilm]]

      Motion should happen only at the level of the fingers and not at the wrist or even the arms. Type only with your fingers and not your wrists or arms.

      Allow the carriage to glide to complete the carriage return rather than wasting addition time and energy on pushing it all the way. Let the momentum do the work.

      Use the paper release when removing letters to reduce wear on your rollers and prevent ripping of the paper.

      See also at https://stock.periscopefilm.com/63024-correcting-bad-typing-habits-with-the-smith-corona-electric-typewriter/

      Drop the paper into the top of the platen and against the paper guide to improve alignment can save time.

      Setting the right hand margin will help save huge amounts of time from the transcriptionist looking back and forth to get proper margins otherwise.

      Using correct typing for numerals will speed up typing numbers as well.

      For the top tabulator, use your index fingers alternately instead of hitting it with your entire hand.

      Hugging the keys with your fingers allows you to type faster, much like a drummer keeps the sticks closer to the drumhead when drumming quickly.

    1. Back in the day people used custom erasers for erasing. They were much harder than the softer erasers in use now, which is why modern pencil and art erasers don't work as well. For some historical methods, see these videos or here.

      Secretaries also used small eraser shields to target individual letters, words, or lines. They also used larger curved shields for erasing within carbon copy packs.

      Eaton used to make Ko-rec-type tabs which could be inserted for short corrections and it can still be found online as old stock.

      There was also bichrome ribbon with white correction tape, but that tends to fleck off and make a mess in your machine over time. Similarly White Out is still made, but it can spill and make a mess while you wait for it to dry.

      For modern typists, hand-held correction tape is probably the quickest and easiest.


      This could be expanded for the widest range of history on erasing using typewriters with caveats, etc.

      reply to u/Fearless_Camera_1788 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ixmz88/how_to_erase/

    1. Highest price you’d spend

      reply to u/Pope_Shady at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1iwrlij/highest_price_youd_spend/

      Generally my cap for typewriter purchases is in the $20-35 range. Most of my favorite machines (the standards) were acquired for $5-10 and they're so much better than the portables. At these prices I'm not too worried about the level of work required. I regularly spend 3-4 times more money on a full reel of bulk typewriter ribbon than I do on a typical typewriter.

      A few of my more expensive acquisitions: * I went as high as $100 on a machine (including shipping) to get a Royal Quiet De Luxe with a Vogue typeface that turned out to be in about as stunning a condition as one could hope for. * I went to $130 on an Olympia SM3 in part for it's Congress elite typeface as well as an uncommon set of mathematical characters. I'm sure I could have gotten it for significantly less, but wanted to help out the seller and it was in solid condition except for worn bushings. * I also went to around $150 for an (uncommon in the US) early 30's Orga Privat 5 that was in solid shape. I've yet to run into another Orga in the wild in the US since.

      It also bears saying that I don't mind buying "barn machines" as a large portion of the fun in collecting for me is cleaning, adjusting, and restoring them to full functionality. I've been dissapointed once to have bought a Remington Quiet-Riter once for $10 only to discover it was in near mint condition and didn't need any work at all.

      I am at the point where I'm going to need to start selling machines, work at a local shop, or start my own shop if I'm going to keep up with the "hobby" and maintain a sane spouse simultaneously. If I didn't enjoy wrenching on machines so much, I would definitely be buying them from local shops for significantly more money, and I'd probably have far fewer.

      It's not talked about in great length in some typewriter collector spaces, but I think some of the general pricing "game", beyond just getting a "deal", is the answer to the questions: "What am I into this space for anyway? What makes it fun and interesting?" If you don't have the time, talent, tools, or inclination to do your own cleaning and restoration work, then paying $300-$600 for a nice machine in exceptional clean/restored condition from a shop is a totally valid choice and shouldn't be dismissed. Some are in it for the discussions of typewriters. Some are in it for the bargain hunt. Some just want to write. Some want rare gems. Some want common machines from famous writers. Others just want one "good" machine while others want all the machines. It's a multi-faceted space.

    1. Typewriter Market: It may be better if you didn't get an Olympia SM3 typewriter today.

      I'm not out to shame people for their purchases, just to caution uninitiated typewriter purchasers and budding collectors who aren't carefully watching the market.

      Olympia SM3s are well-touted and excellent typewriters. They've recently been selling on ShopGoodwill in unknown condition for $120-150 based only on photos.

      Earlier today, an Olympia SM3 sold for $334! So what gives? Why did this go for over twice as much as the average? To the uninitiated, the seasoned collector can look at this machine carefully and realize that even without seeing a type sample or a close up photo of the slugs that this machine is quietly hiding a script typeface of some kind. This means that two bidders would have paid an almost $200 premium for a script typeface, and one of them managed to snipe it for $1 with minutes left. Generally I see script machines going for $100-150 over similar machines without script.

      Sadly, the high price on this machine earlier in the day may have suckered others into thinking these machines are significantly more valuable as it seems two other Olympia SM3s right after it both went for:<br /> * $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222707079 * $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546519

      And they were bid over 200 by the same two people while the "smarter" money stopped with bids at $137 on both.

      Of course, neither of these later two machines have a script face, but at least two bidders were potentially reeled in by the much higher sales price of the script machine earlier in the day. This means that they've overpayed at least $50 above market for each, possibly thinking that they may have gotten a great deal. Sadly they didn't, they just overpayed the market average. The person who was sniped on both managed to save themselves $100+ today because I imagine they'll be able to get equivalent machines in the coming month for closer to under $150.

      Incidentally another later Olympia portable (usually in the $75-120 range) earlier in the day went for a more reasonable $232 with a stated/photographed cursive typeface: https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546740 This one was a stronger deal in the current market as they only paid about $110 above average for that machine to get the script typeface. The tough part is that because the description stated "cursive", they didn't have the benefit of possibly picking up a script machine with less competition.

      While this is an interesting microcosm example of the current (overheated?) typewriter market (at least in the US), I hope all the buyers of these machines enjoy their purchases. If they're your first Olympias, and they need some work to get back to fighting shape, I've put together a guide: https://boffosocko.com/2024/07/14/aggregated-resources-and-playlist-for-a-crash-course-on-the-olympia-sm3-portable-typewriter/

      syndication link

    1. reply to u/Ill_Tear8308

      Not so much that they're proprietary, but the Zephyr, Skyriter, and later Corsairs used the 1 5/8" diameter spools, which fit about 12 yards of ribbon versus the more common universal 2" spools which will hold 16 yards of ribbon.

      1/2" wide ribbon should work on this. Sellers include: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you wind it onto pre-existing spools keep in mind that Smith-Coronas typically used eyelets in the ribbon to effect the auto-ribbon reverse, though you could certainly do it manually if you needed to.

      There aren't a lot of examples of Empire-Coronas in the typewriter database, so be sure to include your example with photos:

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/empire.24.typewriter-serial-number-database

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/Empire.-Corona+Skyriter.24.bmys

    1. reply to u/HenRoRo61


      Earlier today, in a now-deleted post, someone had posted a question about identifying one of Helen Keller's typewriters based on this video in her archive.

      Having done some initial digging, I thought I'd share some of the details I've found for those who may find it interesting.

      According to researcher Richard Polt, Helen Keller was known to use both a Hammond and an L.C. Smith no. 5.

      As for the Remington Noiseless, it definitely appears to be a mid-century Noiseless Standard with a tabulator. To know the year, you'd need either the specific serial number (to cross check https://typewriterdatabase.com/remington.42.typewriter-serial-number-database) or you'd need many more examples than the Typewriter Database currently has listed under the generic Remington Noiseless.

      If you're careful at looking at the design choices and changes in some of the Remington Portables from that time period which would have likely tracked the design changes of their desktop standards, you might be able to extrapolate a closer dating based on the styling, but this will still only give you a dating within a year or so.

      The tabulator was at the top of the keyboard by 1937, so you can probably presume it was a model from that point or thereafter until 1954. Most American typewriter manufacturers didn't make machines from '41-45 due to WWII, so you can discard those dates. Remington had moved into thicker/taller plastic keys by the early 1950s, so I would guess her machine was more likely from the late 1940s.

      Looking more closely at the Remington Noiseless 10, I'd suggest that this is the most likely set of candidates, particularly in the timeframe of 1946-1947. Hers obviously had the openings in the rear and had the metal covers on the sides (as opposed to glass found on some models). Comparing hers in the film to some of these individual galleries may help to narrow things down with respect to dating.

      Perhaps others with more Remington Standard experience, may be able to narrow things down here.

      The appraisal of her Remington Noiseless in 1957 was $135.00.

      One might find some close noiseless models in the $20-40 range + shipping (these are about 30 pounds and will cost about $35 for shipping) via ShopGoodwill.com. Here are some recent sales for comparison. Based on the video you'll want the bigger, heavier ones (25+ pounds) rather than the smaller portables with cases (usually under 20 pounds). Generally machines purchased this way are reasonably functional, but usually need some cleaning and work to be restored to full functionality.

      Unless you're sure they're being sold by repair shops and have been cleaned and are fully functional, don't overspend on potential exemplars on sites like Etsy or eBay which are likely to be only marginally better (aka dusted off) than ShopGoodwill machines, but at 5-10x the price.

      Hellen Keller's brailler: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B049-183&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

      She apparently owned a \~1938 or 1939 Corona Silent as well: https://www.afb.org/HelenKellerArchive?a=d&d=A-HK08-B045-184.1.1&srpos=19&e=-------en-20--1--txt--typewriter------3-7-6-5-3--------------0-1

      One might have some luck trying to find a Corona Silent typewriter from that era, but the unique color is going to put a machine like it into the $100-200 range (at a minimum and potentially going up from there depending on the condition) unless you get lucky at a garage sale somewhere.

  3. Jan 2025
    1. I only tend to give my typewriters "names" once they're fully cleaned and generally restored and have used them for a bit to know their "character". An example here is my 1950 Royal KMG (Keset Magic Gray) which I call "Sterling" after the Mad Men character Roger Sterling; I also cleaned the the interior with bourbon as an homage.

      Many I refer to by year of manufacture and model name ('55 Clipper or '48 Clipper, for example), particularly when I have several similar looking ones from the same time period. A few have names based on writers who I know have used the same models from roughly the same time period (so I have a '49 Royal QDL I've named "Nabokov"). My '48 Royal QDL I call "Dreyfuss" in honor of the typewriter's industrial designer who lived a few miles away from me.

      Others are referred to by shorthands featuring unique characteristics, so I have one called "The Vogue" and another I call the "Math SM3" for it's unique math symbol characters. My Remington 666 is variously either "El Diablo" or "Robert Johnson", whose music I listen to while typing on it. I have a German Orga which I call the "Wonka Machine" as one of its brethren appeared in Willy Wonka's office in Charlie and The Chocolate Factory (1971).

      A few I call by the first names of their prior owners as an homage to their history before I became their caretakers.

      I call my Royal HH the "HHE" as that's the serial number prefix for my machine which has an elite face.

      What you call your own is entirely up to you.

      More on typewriters and naming: https://boffosocko.com/2024/05/25/collective-nouns-for-typewriters-and-typists/


      Reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1id4y49/how_to_refer_to_a_typewriter/ by r/ich_mag_frettchen

    1. Hi, it depends on the shop and the person doing the work. I diagnose for a flat fee of $20. For manual machines, general cleaning and service is billed at $165 with repairs at $65/hrs plus parts. Teardowns and restorations are billed purely hourly. This job is a total of $1,100 with the teardown as well as a frame weld. The welding required parts prepping, gas fees, post processing... and took about 5 hours total. The rest of the machine is about 15 hours so far. Still have about four to go. So yeah, I'm technically supposed to bill another $400 or so, but I'm going to let that slide since the client is already paying a lot for a machine worth way less. Typewriter repair is expensive, especially when it's done to the level of detail that I go to. Very few shops put this much care and attention into these machines. All that being said, the average job on a manual typewriter at my shop usually runs around $300. Full clean, and usual repairs

      Typewriter Chicago / Lucas Dul rates: - Diagnosis for $20 - Manuals: general cleaning and service: $165 - repairs at $65/hour plus parts - average job on manuals runs around $400 - teardowns and restorations billed purely hourly around $55/hour

      This example is $1,100 for 5 hours of frame/welding work and 15 hours of tear down, cleaning and re-assembly. He'll likely go 4 hours over, but is discounting it.

    1. Making Custom Typewriter Line Spacings by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      I suspected JVC would have a custom cut platen gear, but he's using a premarked backing sheet to adjust each line to do one and a half line spacing.

      Joe mentions that the manual adjustments on each line is a net positive in that it gives him some time to pause and collect his thoughts before continuing writing on each line.

    1. Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

      Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

      Basic Tools

      • screwdriver sets
        • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
        • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
        • long reach screwdriver
        • magnetic screwdriver
        • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
        • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
        • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
        • grab hooks
      • pliers
        • standard needle nose pliers
        • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
        • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
        • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
      • Mechanics' wrench set
        • prefer cast ones
        • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
        • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
      • Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
      • Tweezers
      • Blowtorches
        • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
        • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
        • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
      • Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
        • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
      • MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
      • strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
      • knife (butter knife)
        • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
      • flashlight (simple is fine)
      • marker (Sharpie)
        • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
      • hammer
      • retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
      • Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
      • Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

      Intermediate Tools

      • segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
      • drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
      • carpenter's pencil for marking

      Advanced/Specialty tools

      • t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
      • 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
      • peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
      • wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
      • eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
      • files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

      Very specialized

      • Type slug solder jig or solder guide (30:52)
      • keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
      • multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

      Honorable mentions

      • center punch for drilling points and new screws
      • dental mirror for looking into machines
      • spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

      Q&A

      air compressors are useful for cleaning

      Don't damage screws on older machines.

      US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

      3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

  4. Dec 2024
    1. The 2023 Rover Typewriter: Worst Machine Ever? by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

      I know Michaels was carrying the We R Memory Keepers typewriter, but hadn't heard about Home Depot carrying them.

      Rover made by Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company still making typewriters (bad quality control, plastic, poor alignment). These are variously rebadged as: - the Rover - the Royal Epoch - We R Memory Keepers (Michaels, Home Depot) - Royal Classic (metal shell) - Maplefield (Target, Walmart, Michaels) - The Oliver Typewriter Company

      Will Davis has determined that they're all based on the Olympia Carina.

    1. (Some summary of ring & cylinder adjustments based on other notes)

      A new platen in many cases will help to solve some of the proximal problem, but you'll still have heavy wear on your paper/ribbon and your new platen over time as a result. The first adjustments a pro typewriter repair person would make after installing a new platen would be to check the ring & cylinder, on feet, and motion which can all be subtly out of alignment with a new platen.

      Pretty much every typewriter in modern era has adjustment points for this. All three of the machines you name definitely do. You'll find some of the basics and adjustment points for several machines described at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1945-AMES-OAMI-MechanicalTrainingMan.v1-ringcylinder.manual. If you look at the manuals for specific machines that Ted Munk has collected at the typewriterdatabase.com, you'll find how/where to make those adjustments. Several on Polt's website describe the adjustment as well: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Some sources may describe the adjustment as hammer and anvil as opposed to ring and cylinder.

      You're also likely to find YouTube videos on them as well (I'd check Phoenix Typewriter's channel first, though I do recall he mislabeled one once on a S-C Skyriter which was really an on feet/motion adjustment.) Duane's also got a really subtle and uncommon adjustment on a Royal QDL here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOET0i3DsR8

      Gerren gives an adjustment nod for the Olympia SM series here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2jnC6ODB834&t=670s And here's a blogpost about the adjustment points for an Olympia SF: https://ber10thal.com/blog/repairing-a-1961-olympia-sf/

      Related blogposts from Munk for a Brother JP-1:

      Hopefully your machines and hardware appreciate the finer adjustments and wear better over time as a result.

      Happy typing!

    1. The last adjustment I needed to make is sometimes called ring and cylinder. It moves the platen closer or further from the typebars. I think the rubber on the platen over time dried and shrunk a bit. I used this adjustment to move the platen closer in order to get a better type imprint. (note: you have to loosen two screws on each side of the carriage [4 screws] in the next photo before making this adjustment.)
    1. reply to u/Jbhusker at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hk15pf/the_frenzy_continues_where_does_it_end/ on an old and rough looking Underwood No. 3 from 1927

      The shipping price is suspicious as even Shopgoodwill wouldn't ship it for that low. I do notice some online sellers playing games between machine pricing and shipping. They'll often price a machine lower than "market" and then make up for it with an astronomical shipping price. This example seems to have gone the other way, which may help some novice typewriter purchasers who wouldn't understand that this is a 30# machine.

      What's going on in this example does present some interesting analysis of the current market.

      Possibilities driving the price here: - Week before Christmas and someone is burning spare cash on a decorative/nostalgic present at the last minute. (I've noticed prices on everything going up in the last two months at a greater than usual clip. I suspect things will come crashing down a bit after the New Year.) - It was photographed well. - Included a video of it actually typing as proof that it "works". - It has the look of having been cleaned up despite the look of old patina which was left to make the machine show its age. Look at the exterior screws which appear cleaned/refinished while portions of the exterior don't. In fact, the underlying servicer (Adam of Brooksaw Antiques) seems to specialize in servicing machines to working order but leaving lots of age and patina on them almost as if they're being aged up on purpose. They've got lots of examples on a variety of socials as well as presences on Etsy and Ebay, which speaks to some level of experience. Given the appearance of experience here, I'd bet the machine shows up in the condition it was shipped. - "New ink" decreases the stress of the buyer on finding it themself (potentially a $30-50 value to the customer) and it only cost the seller $2, because I'm dead certain they bought it in bulk. - The eBay reviews of this shop are stunning over 931 items. The lowest is a 4.9 out of 5, which I'm guessing is someone dinging them on shipping price from an earlier sale where they had more realistic shipping numbers on large standards. - "Military Sand" may possibly have been misinterpreted as this being a mill. It is a great marketing name for the color in any case. - I would guess that the purchaser is buying this as a single showpiece for nostalgia's sake. They're getting the bonus that it works. (Like Kirk, I'm not a big fan of the refurb paint on these.) - Its the week before Christmas...

    1. reply to u/Rocky__1927 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hirzo5/remington_premier/

      As Ted Munk has commented on these before, rare is a reach. They're uncommon primarily because they didn't manufacture as many of these as they did of the American Quiet-Riters (or Office- or Letter-Riters). I would suspect it's stamped as made in Great Britain (though actually made in Scotland) after American manufacture moved there in the late 50s/early 60s where they only made them for a short time before switching over to more plastic bodied machines. Probably has a serial number starting with ERP on the frame near the ribbon cup. It's essentially a Quiet-Riter made in Scotland with smooth paint rather than crinkle. Surely some of the manufacturing process and materials will be slightly different/cheaper.

      There may be a completist Remington collector who might pay over $100 for it, but I wouldn't think you'd have an easy time getting over $75 for this unless it's in excellent/serviced condition, particularly when ubiquitous QRs with sturdier cases can be had for $10-25 in similar condition.

    1. ELEMENTARY TYPING <br /> via Periscope Film #15494

      Elementary Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Periscope Film, #15494, 1971. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdyoPu_ASw.<br /> running time: 00:12:06

      Produced by Moreland-Latchford Productions, Ltd this informational film from 1971 titled “Elementary Typing” teaches the basics of becoming a good typist. The film features a manual Typemaster, a trade name used by Underwood as far back as the 1930s. This version of the machine featured both red and black ribbons. An electric version is seen at 9:00.

      The film is broken down into different sections that focus on different elements of typing from the rhythmic beat of typing to optimal hand positioning as well as how to set up a typewriter. “Elementary Typing” is part of a larger film series related to the art of typing with other titles including “Posture and the Keyboard,” “First Step Typing,” “Machine Techniques,” and “Remedial Typing.” Advisors for the creation of the film include James Treliving Commercial Coordinator North York Board of Education, J.T. Albani East York Board of Education, Sheila Wright Etobicoke Board of Education, and Ronald Thelander Director of Audio-Visual Aids Metropolitan Separate School Board, Toronto. In addition, the film was directed by Rod Maxwell and written by Robert Browning and featured Alex Veltman as the cameraman, Carl Connell as editor, Joe Hayward as production head, and James McCormick as executive producer.

      Pink illustrated typewriter on navy blue background (0:09). Outline of topics covered (0:17). A: early rhythm and reading – metronome and hands typing in the background (0:22). Aerial view of hands typing on an 197X Underwood Typemaster model typewriter (0:42). Camera pans words typed on a page (1:27). Close-up of letters being printed onto a page (1:36). Woman sitting at desk typing quickly (2:24). B: Paper Insertion – close-up of typewriter and hand setting the paper guide at the correct place on the paper table (2:35). Explanation of correct form and technique for holding and inserting paper (2:58-4:23). Explanation of paper removal (4:26). Badminton player returning various shots (4:41). Close-up of hands on the typewriter emphasizing the art of positioning (5:07). C: The Shift – explanation of the shift key (5:15-6:30). D: The Carriage Return – close-up of the device (6:32). The woman types and uses the carriage return (6:46-9:00). The Electric Typewriter – comparison between 197X Underwood Type Master manual model and Underwood 765 Type Master electric model typewriter (9:04). Difference between typing strategies (10:03). Benefits of using an electric machine (10:20). Closing credits (11:35).

    1. reply to u/Novembree at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hfncyz/had_a_typewriter_for_awhile_could_use_help/

      Welcome to the Royal KMM club! Seems like lots of these have been posted in the last day including one by u/betternatured and another by u/the-other-gusta along with a very similar Royal KMG by u/Jacki-san.

      The serial number puts yours down as a KMM with an 11 inch platen manufactured in 1945. Cross reference: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

      These were really popular and ubiquitous, standard (large desktop) typewriters in the mid-century that were the workhorse of many offices. Because they were so common and so heavy, they only go for $5-25 in the used market in either unknown or marginal condition. If they're cleaned up and well-serviced they can go for more with a cap of around $300-400 depending on the level of restoration. Some with special features (like special typefaces) or provenance may go for more.

      The Royal KMM was known to have been used by writers including: John Ashberry, Harry Ashmore, Russell Baker, Ray Bradbury, Richard Bratigan, Richard Brooks, Pearl S. Buck, Johnny Carson, Norman Corwin, Frank Herbert, Ken Kesey, G.W. Lee, Harper Lee, Ursula K. LeGuin, David McCullough, Margaret Mead, Grangland Rice, and Dorothy Parker. This was also the model famously used by Angela Landsbury's character on the TV show Murder, She Wrote.

      Depending on your level of typewriter knowledge try out some of the following short films which will also provide some tips, tricks, and maintenance advice common in the era of your machine:

      Happy Typing!

    1. The markets and level of ubiquity of these items in their heyday are so dramatically different that this is certainly an apples and oranges comparison.

      However, if you want to compare the artist/users of the instrument to their machines, which is a way of potentially intuiting a potential answer to your question (one which is highly subjective), you might go by who was using particular typewriters of the time. Here's some data to consider: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html

      For that rough era in American-made machines, you'll see peak engineering/manufacturing in the 1950s out of the Smith-Corona Super Silent, the Remington Quiet-Riter, and the Royal Quiet De Luxe. Design, touch, and tuning can all be such subjective measures here so as to heavily Muddy (the) Waters ('52 Gibson Les Paul Gold Top/'58 Fender Telecaster) on style, quality, and popularity amongst the cognoscenti. Peak quality in the 60s had broadly moved to post-war Germany and Italy with machines from Olympia (SM3, 4, 5, 7, etc.) and Olivetti respectively.

      For my personal money, in American machines of the time, I love the design and performance of my well-tuned, and mostly restored 1950 Royal KMG. However, the current market certainly wouldn't indicate a broader beloved status for these the way you'll see for Stratocasters. (You'll also find some horribly maintained and un-tuned machines out there on the market, which is why so much of the antique and vintage typewriter market pricing is so wildly out of whack.)

      A separate flavor of question certainly, but if you're looking for a solid performing typewriter to pair aesthetically and temporally with a '64 Strat, I'd go with a Royal FP ('57-62) (which came in Royaltone or Pearl Dark Gray smooth, Royaltone or Pearl Light Gray smooth, Willow Green smooth, Sea Blue smooth, Cameo Pink smooth (Petal Pink) , Brushed Aluminum, Sandstone smooth, and Coral Rose) or the smaller Royal Futura 800 ('58-'63).

    1. When it comes to some of the older manual typewriters, condition is king and a big determinant of price. For the budget range you're in, you're more likely to get something in mediocre shape that's going to require some work: cleaning, repairs, parts, other.

      Your best bet is to go to a repair shop that sells machines, put your hands on them, try them out, ask lots of questions, then buy your favorite. Your time is worth money and productivity, so buy something you like out of the gate and you'll save a lot in the long run. You'll probably be happier and better off in the long run with something in the £200-400 range. It will also give you something you can start using right away to get your work done rather than faffing about.

      Try shops from this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      I'd generally endorse most of the advice on models you'll find in these sources which are geared specifically toward writers, all three sources have lots experience and reasonable bona fides to make such recommendations. (Though they do tend toward some of the more expensive portables rather than the sturdier and more economical standard machines.)

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9dXflhDed0<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKMt-aCHZZk<br /> https://typewriterreview.com/2020/01/10/top-10-writerly-typewriters/

      Beyond this Just My Typewriter has a few short videos that'll give you a crash course on Typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      u/jbhusker's advice is solid if you prefer that sort of machine instead.

      reply to u/ArcherNF at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hdgte4/looking_for_a_recommendation/

    1. https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h4b3aw/is_there_a_source_that_exists_that_sells_or/

      If you need them for basic functionality, often you can find the manuals of the original manufacturers' models for rebrands (example: the Sears Tower machines which were really just rebrandings of the Smith-Corona 5 series).

      Additionally, after the 1930s there really wasn't a lot of new functionality, so almost any manual will help you to get you where you need to go, though there are some small differences in locations of things like carriage locks which can be helpful to know about and whose placement moved around on various machines.

      You might also notice that as typewriters were more ubiquitous in the 60s and 70s their manuals got thinner and thinner with less detail. If you do find a specific manual, you're unlikely to find very much in it.

      The Davis Brothers have some history on the Commodore line which was related to some of the Sears Chevron line. Polt does have two Commodore manuals which may be close to your machine: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

    1. On the value of typewriters

      As a hobbyist, you'll easily obtain several hundred dollars worth of potential diversion and satisfaction out of your alluring typewriter by cleaning, properly oiling, and adjusting it. Then you're guaranteed to both give and receive thousands of dollars worth of happiness out of it by typing letters to family and friends. With practice, you may reap millions by writing stories, plays, poems, screenplays, and books.

      Even if your scintillating typewriter sits on a shelf as home decor only to be viewed as a museum piece, you'll have gotten $50 of value for even that lowly function.

      You'll only have wasted your money if your wondorous typewriter sits lonely and forgotten in a dusty attic or dank basement to rust and rot away.

      Might you have gotten it for less? Perhaps, but you've saved yourself a huge amount of time and effort in such a hunt for a machine as desirous as this. You have it in front of you for writing right now.

      So get to typing at once my friend! For time is money, and every moment your fingers aren't caressing its keys, you are losing value.

      Congratulations on your stunning find.


      reply to u/readysalted344 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h3jyyt/did_i_waste_my_money/

  5. Nov 2024
    1. reply to u/Pawps4895 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h1dcil/help_ink_ribbon_not_moving/

      That ghosting effect you're seeing may be down to your typing technique. Computer keyboard typing technique is different than typewriter technique. If you're pressing hard and/or bottoming the keys out, you may not be getting your fingers out of the way and causing the key to double strike while you're lifting your finger up.

      Instead, type as if they keys are hot lava. Strike and release them as quickly as possible and that ghosting should clear up. For more on technique, try: https://hypothes.is/users/chrisaldrich?q=tag%3A%22typing+technique%22

      If that isn't the issue, is that ghosting happening on all the keys or just a few? Cleaning things out certainly couldn't hurt: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

    1. Start of an outline for a longer article on typewriter tools<br /> Suggested by reply to u/Confident_Avocado768 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gy25og/christmas_gift_help/


      If they've been doing restoration for a while, try to find out what they already have to avoid duplication. Anyone who's done a few machines is likely to have a lifetime supply of lubricant (it really goes a long way) and is likely to have gone well beyond cotton swabs. The sort of kit you mention would be more appropriate to someone who's recently gotten their first typewriter, not someone who has restored more than a machine or two.

      Chances are that you can up the level of their restoration tool bag with a small handful of inexpensive and easy to source options:

      • oiler bottles for solvents/cleaning
      • spring hook (push)
      • spring hook (pull)
      • spring hook (captive)
      • wiping cloths (cotton)
      • nylon, brass, and steel brushes (example; 2 or 3 sets of these are always useful)
      • high quality wool mats make a great (soft) surface for working on machines (as well as for typing on). Here's some details and a link to a well-recommended one.

      I've documented some of my own versions of these with links at https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/

      Slightly more expensive tools that they may not have:

      If you really want to shoot the moon and they're into the older vintage machines, you could get them a new pair of keyring pliers: http://mytypewriter.com/hello-qwerty-typewriter-keyring-pliers-kit.aspx

      You can also browse Lucas Dul's kit for other ideas via this presentation: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

      Good luck and Merry Christmas! 🪛🛠️🎅🏼🎄

    1. Useful template for emailing about shipping typewriters


      Dear TK:

      Quite often typewriters are damaged beyond repair in shipping. This is particularly true of larger/heavier typewriters like this one.

      Primary concerns are to prevent movement of the carriage and protecting the carriage knobs and the silver carriage return arm.

      Please use an elastic band(s)/rubber band(s) to permanently hold the carriage release lever to the green carriage knob(s). The carriage release lever is the silver piece just above the green knobs on either side of the typewriter carriage (the part that would move back and forth while typing.) This should allow the carriage to move freely back and forth to the right or the left and prevent any damage to the delicate escapement mechanism inside the typewriter.

      Next, to prevent damage to the carriage with respect to the heavy metal frame, use plastic wrap or bubble wrap to ensure that the carriage is roughly centered on the typewriter (or flush on the left side) and can’t move back or forth while being shipped.

      Finally, ensure appropriate amounts of packing material around the carriage, the knobs, and the return lever to prevent them from being broken or damaged in shipping. In particular, make sure there isn’t any empty space (or dead space) inside the box or the machine is guaranteed to bounce around and break. The box being dropped accidentally from even a foot or two is enough to either bend or break the heavy frame or destroy the carriage. This sort of damage is often what makes what is otherwise a fully functional typewriter a useless boat anchor.

      Thanks in advance for your kind assistance in helping this vintage machine reach me in its best condition!

      Warmest regards, name

      Video example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNISoY_7g9s Written example: https://johnlewismechanicalantiques.com/packing-instructions/

    1. They still have some specific use cases where they aren't obsolete. For example I've worked at several law firms and every one of them had at least one office typewriter. They are super useful when you're working with older documents and want the additions to look professional and consistent. For example I once worked on a complex stock reissue where I was working with 100 year old stock certificates. Typing on them was muuuuuch faster, easier, and cleaner with a typewriter than trying to line up the old certificates in a laser printer

      u/Tarcalion via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gtyai7/typewriters_arent_obsolete_now_and_in_the_future/lxrd9zc/

    1. It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.

      People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.

      The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.

    1. And this is where you see how the condition of a machine comes into play when pricing is being considered. A $700 machine has had several hours of cleaning and potential reconditioning, parts, repairs, oiling, and adjusting done. At $700 and given it's age, I'd also want to ask if they've replaced the platen. Compare this with a dirty, old machine that's going to need those same hours of work, attention, parts, and new rubber, to bring it up to par and it's definitely not going to fetch the same price.

      And this is exactly what is wrong with 95% of the market: most buyers and sellers have no idea what they've got, much less the condition it's in or the work that it takes to bring these back to life for another 50-75 years. Thus they price their dirty, and rough machines at the same prices as the repair shops thinking they're going to make a mint. Apparently they're all hoping some sucker who doesn't know better will buy it.

      Remember: Dante has a special circle of hell for those who buy typewriters for pennies on the dollar and flip them on eBay without doing any work on them.

    1. Hi friends! I received a vintage teal blue SCM Smith Corona "Skyriter" typewriter. It is awesome, but it does not have the original spools. I ordered an expensive original ribbon from eBay, but it was totally dried out. Then I ordered an inexpensive "universal" (2") spool from Amazon that didn't fit in my machine. Does anyone have recommendations of new, small spool (1 5/8") ribbons that tend to be reliably inky? I am located in Canada and getting tired of paying import costs on stuff that doesn't work. Thanks in advance!

      reply to u/actualwoey at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gqhied/recommendations_for_reliable_new_small_spool_1_58/

      You could see if a local repair shop is parting out a machine or has spools that would work for you. iirc the Corona Zephyr, Skyriter, and the later versions of the Corsair all used that smaller spool size, usually described as 1 5/8" or 1 2/3". https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html Once you've got the correct sized spools, you can wind your Amazon ribbon onto them, but you'll likely have to trim it down to fit. (2" spools usually have 16 yards of ribbon while the 1 5/8" accommodate about 12 yards.)

      If you can't come up with original metal spools to respool your 1/2" ribbon onto, you can try https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/category-s/12779.htm which will sell you both in one go.

      Some other ribbon options: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I've had good luck buying bulk ribbon from both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line.

      I've heard some have successfully re-juvenated old ribbon by spraying it (unspooled into a box) with WD-40 or glycerine to re-wet it and then respooling it.

    1. After using my newspaper.com acct it appears that 79 or so you see the correction key feature and the model often called "Report Electric Correction." By 1983 ish, at least in the dealer ads that show up, they have dropped it and are full steam onto the electronic version of the Report/er.
    2. Anything with "correction" (ie: originally used with white/black super-messy "correction" ribbons, and has the bichrome label "black, silver, white or white/red") will be very late 70's through the 80's. This *could* be 1987, and I think it probably is, because I know that correction started about 1978-9 for Brother, so it probably started around then for other manufacturers too. If someone knew for sure when those awful black/white ribbons were introduced *exactly*. you could pin it down more precisely, but right now, that's as good as we've got.
    1. If you've been dreaming of plunging into this profession, consider the success of Paul Lundy, who took over Bremerton Office Machine Company from nonagenarian Bob Montgomery; or Antony Valoppi, creator of Portland's Type Space, which combines a traditional typewriter shop with a cultural center; or Trevor Brumfield, a young man in his late twenties who has quickly built Dayton's TB Writers Plus into a busy enterprise.
    1. https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/fillers/fil-stik-putty-sticks/

      Putty sticks (aka paint sticks) are good for filling in nicks and dings on furniture.

      These putty sticks and some crayons are also great for restoring the colored index lines on typewriters as well as other colored metal parts and occasionally on some plastic typewriter keys.

      M231-10104 SYY Red<br /> M230-0054 Crimson Rose #SN292<br /> M230-0046 COCONUT, COTTON, BRIE, HEAVY CREAM, SNOWFLAKE <br /> M230-0090 Picket Fence

  6. Oct 2024
    1. Typewriter Basics: Carriage Locks by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Sarah describes having a common spacebar issue when repairing a typewriter, bending the spacebar down which causes the machine not to work/advance as a result when it's put back into the typewriter shell.

      Sarah also shows some type bar benders, but doesn't demonstrate how she (or her father) used them to do the repair.

    1. They're looking at what others online are listed for (and not what they've actually sold for) to set their price. They probably have no idea what the typewriter market is like and what the value of their machine really is based on a variety of factors including make/model, condition, servicing, extras, typeface. Unless their machine has an exceptionally rare typeface (usually adds $80-150) or has a brand new rubber (usually adds 30-40 for new feet) or a new platen ($100-180), then in its current condition it's probably not worth more than $50.

      Once you get it, you're going to want to have it cleaned, oiled, and adjusted which will run you several hours of labor and materials at a repair shop at $50-75 per hour. It may also need one or two replacement parts.

      If talking to them about the price doesn't bring it down significantly then you should pass on it. If you're not up to cleaning, adjusting, oiling a machine yourself, your best bet is to purchase something from a repair shop that already is. You'll have a far better experience. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      For comparison here's some similar machines professionally cleaned, serviced, with new ribbons and a 3 month warranty from $240-350 with some of the price depending on particular model and desirability of color. https://reeselectronics.com/search.php?search_query=smith+corona+silent&x=0&y=0

      If you've got money to burn then maybe it's worth $180 to you, but if that's the case then get something in much nicer condition from a repair shop.


      reply to u/EmergencyFirst7634 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gcyayc/this_a_good_buy/

    1. If the "Hanks Effect" was really so prominent, then we should see the commensurate rise in price of 5 Series Smith Coronas and particularly the Clipper and the Silent which he's also mentioned several times. In fact, he's said these would be the typewriter he'd keep if he had to get rid of all others. Given this fact, it has to be, in part, a variety of other factors which inflates the prices.

      Personally I think that it's a combination of the fact that they were manufactured at the peak of typewriter use and manufacturing and before companies began using more plastic and cheaper manufacturing methods, but were also done in a later timeperiod when exterior design and color were on the rise as a differentiator in the marketplace. Quality, form, and function become part of a trifecta which drive desire and collectability.

    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/