1,384 Matching Annotations
  1. Dec 2024
    1. The 2023 Rover Typewriter: Worst Machine Ever? by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

      I know Michaels was carrying the We R Memory Keepers typewriter, but hadn't heard about Home Depot carrying them.

      Rover made by Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company still making typewriters (bad quality control, plastic, poor alignment). These are variously rebadged as: - the Rover - the Royal Epoch - We R Memory Keepers (Michaels, Home Depot) - Royal Classic (metal shell) - Maplefield (Target, Walmart, Michaels) - The Oliver Typewriter Company

      Will Davis has determined that they're all based on the Olympia Carina.

    1. (Some summary of ring & cylinder adjustments based on other notes)

      A new platen in many cases will help to solve some of the proximal problem, but you'll still have heavy wear on your paper/ribbon and your new platen over time as a result. The first adjustments a pro typewriter repair person would make after installing a new platen would be to check the ring & cylinder, on feet, and motion which can all be subtly out of alignment with a new platen.

      Pretty much every typewriter in modern era has adjustment points for this. All three of the machines you name definitely do. You'll find some of the basics and adjustment points for several machines described at https://typewriterdatabase.com/1945-AMES-OAMI-MechanicalTrainingMan.v1-ringcylinder.manual. If you look at the manuals for specific machines that Ted Munk has collected at the typewriterdatabase.com, you'll find how/where to make those adjustments. Several on Polt's website describe the adjustment as well: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Some sources may describe the adjustment as hammer and anvil as opposed to ring and cylinder.

      You're also likely to find YouTube videos on them as well (I'd check Phoenix Typewriter's channel first, though I do recall he mislabeled one once on a S-C Skyriter which was really an on feet/motion adjustment.) Duane's also got a really subtle and uncommon adjustment on a Royal QDL here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOET0i3DsR8

      Gerren gives an adjustment nod for the Olympia SM series here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2jnC6ODB834&t=670s And here's a blogpost about the adjustment points for an Olympia SF: https://ber10thal.com/blog/repairing-a-1961-olympia-sf/

      Related blogposts from Munk for a Brother JP-1:

      Hopefully your machines and hardware appreciate the finer adjustments and wear better over time as a result.

      Happy typing!

    1. reply to u/Jbhusker at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hk15pf/the_frenzy_continues_where_does_it_end/ on an old and rough looking Underwood No. 3 from 1927

      The shipping price is suspicious as even Shopgoodwill wouldn't ship it for that low. I do notice some online sellers playing games between machine pricing and shipping. They'll often price a machine lower than "market" and then make up for it with an astronomical shipping price. This example seems to have gone the other way, which may help some novice typewriter purchasers who wouldn't understand that this is a 30# machine.

      What's going on in this example does present some interesting analysis of the current market.

      Possibilities driving the price here: - Week before Christmas and someone is burning spare cash on a decorative/nostalgic present at the last minute. (I've noticed prices on everything going up in the last two months at a greater than usual clip. I suspect things will come crashing down a bit after the New Year.) - It was photographed well. - Included a video of it actually typing as proof that it "works". - It has the look of having been cleaned up despite the look of old patina which was left to make the machine show its age. Look at the exterior screws which appear cleaned/refinished while portions of the exterior don't. In fact, the underlying servicer (Adam of Brooksaw Antiques) seems to specialize in servicing machines to working order but leaving lots of age and patina on them almost as if they're being aged up on purpose. They've got lots of examples on a variety of socials as well as presences on Etsy and Ebay, which speaks to some level of experience. Given the appearance of experience here, I'd bet the machine shows up in the condition it was shipped. - "New ink" decreases the stress of the buyer on finding it themself (potentially a $30-50 value to the customer) and it only cost the seller $2, because I'm dead certain they bought it in bulk. - The eBay reviews of this shop are stunning over 931 items. The lowest is a 4.9 out of 5, which I'm guessing is someone dinging them on shipping price from an earlier sale where they had more realistic shipping numbers on large standards. - "Military Sand" may possibly have been misinterpreted as this being a mill. It is a great marketing name for the color in any case. - I would guess that the purchaser is buying this as a single showpiece for nostalgia's sake. They're getting the bonus that it works. (Like Kirk, I'm not a big fan of the refurb paint on these.) - Its the week before Christmas...

    1. reply to u/Rocky__1927 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hirzo5/remington_premier/

      As Ted Munk has commented on these before, rare is a reach. They're uncommon primarily because they didn't manufacture as many of these as they did of the American Quiet-Riters (or Office- or Letter-Riters). I would suspect it's stamped as made in Great Britain (though actually made in Scotland) after American manufacture moved there in the late 50s/early 60s where they only made them for a short time before switching over to more plastic bodied machines. Probably has a serial number starting with ERP on the frame near the ribbon cup. It's essentially a Quiet-Riter made in Scotland with smooth paint rather than crinkle. Surely some of the manufacturing process and materials will be slightly different/cheaper.

      There may be a completist Remington collector who might pay over $100 for it, but I wouldn't think you'd have an easy time getting over $75 for this unless it's in excellent/serviced condition, particularly when ubiquitous QRs with sturdier cases can be had for $10-25 in similar condition.

    1. ELEMENTARY TYPING <br /> via Periscope Film #15494

      Elementary Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Periscope Film, #15494, 1971. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdyoPu_ASw.<br /> running time: 00:12:06

      Produced by Moreland-Latchford Productions, Ltd this informational film from 1971 titled “Elementary Typing” teaches the basics of becoming a good typist. The film features a manual Typemaster, a trade name used by Underwood as far back as the 1930s. This version of the machine featured both red and black ribbons. An electric version is seen at 9:00.

      The film is broken down into different sections that focus on different elements of typing from the rhythmic beat of typing to optimal hand positioning as well as how to set up a typewriter. “Elementary Typing” is part of a larger film series related to the art of typing with other titles including “Posture and the Keyboard,” “First Step Typing,” “Machine Techniques,” and “Remedial Typing.” Advisors for the creation of the film include James Treliving Commercial Coordinator North York Board of Education, J.T. Albani East York Board of Education, Sheila Wright Etobicoke Board of Education, and Ronald Thelander Director of Audio-Visual Aids Metropolitan Separate School Board, Toronto. In addition, the film was directed by Rod Maxwell and written by Robert Browning and featured Alex Veltman as the cameraman, Carl Connell as editor, Joe Hayward as production head, and James McCormick as executive producer.

      Pink illustrated typewriter on navy blue background (0:09). Outline of topics covered (0:17). A: early rhythm and reading – metronome and hands typing in the background (0:22). Aerial view of hands typing on an 197X Underwood Typemaster model typewriter (0:42). Camera pans words typed on a page (1:27). Close-up of letters being printed onto a page (1:36). Woman sitting at desk typing quickly (2:24). B: Paper Insertion – close-up of typewriter and hand setting the paper guide at the correct place on the paper table (2:35). Explanation of correct form and technique for holding and inserting paper (2:58-4:23). Explanation of paper removal (4:26). Badminton player returning various shots (4:41). Close-up of hands on the typewriter emphasizing the art of positioning (5:07). C: The Shift – explanation of the shift key (5:15-6:30). D: The Carriage Return – close-up of the device (6:32). The woman types and uses the carriage return (6:46-9:00). The Electric Typewriter – comparison between 197X Underwood Type Master manual model and Underwood 765 Type Master electric model typewriter (9:04). Difference between typing strategies (10:03). Benefits of using an electric machine (10:20). Closing credits (11:35).

    1. reply to u/Novembree at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hfncyz/had_a_typewriter_for_awhile_could_use_help/

      Welcome to the Royal KMM club! Seems like lots of these have been posted in the last day including one by u/betternatured and another by u/the-other-gusta along with a very similar Royal KMG by u/Jacki-san.

      The serial number puts yours down as a KMM with an 11 inch platen manufactured in 1945. Cross reference: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

      These were really popular and ubiquitous, standard (large desktop) typewriters in the mid-century that were the workhorse of many offices. Because they were so common and so heavy, they only go for $5-25 in the used market in either unknown or marginal condition. If they're cleaned up and well-serviced they can go for more with a cap of around $300-400 depending on the level of restoration. Some with special features (like special typefaces) or provenance may go for more.

      The Royal KMM was known to have been used by writers including: John Ashberry, Harry Ashmore, Russell Baker, Ray Bradbury, Richard Bratigan, Richard Brooks, Pearl S. Buck, Johnny Carson, Norman Corwin, Frank Herbert, Ken Kesey, G.W. Lee, Harper Lee, Ursula K. LeGuin, David McCullough, Margaret Mead, Grangland Rice, and Dorothy Parker. This was also the model famously used by Angela Landsbury's character on the TV show Murder, She Wrote.

      Depending on your level of typewriter knowledge try out some of the following short films which will also provide some tips, tricks, and maintenance advice common in the era of your machine:

      Happy Typing!

    1. The markets and level of ubiquity of these items in their heyday are so dramatically different that this is certainly an apples and oranges comparison.

      However, if you want to compare the artist/users of the instrument to their machines, which is a way of potentially intuiting a potential answer to your question (one which is highly subjective), you might go by who was using particular typewriters of the time. Here's some data to consider: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html

      For that rough era in American-made machines, you'll see peak engineering/manufacturing in the 1950s out of the Smith-Corona Super Silent, the Remington Quiet-Riter, and the Royal Quiet De Luxe. Design, touch, and tuning can all be such subjective measures here so as to heavily Muddy (the) Waters ('52 Gibson Les Paul Gold Top/'58 Fender Telecaster) on style, quality, and popularity amongst the cognoscenti. Peak quality in the 60s had broadly moved to post-war Germany and Italy with machines from Olympia (SM3, 4, 5, 7, etc.) and Olivetti respectively.

      For my personal money, in American machines of the time, I love the design and performance of my well-tuned, and mostly restored 1950 Royal KMG. However, the current market certainly wouldn't indicate a broader beloved status for these the way you'll see for Stratocasters. (You'll also find some horribly maintained and un-tuned machines out there on the market, which is why so much of the antique and vintage typewriter market pricing is so wildly out of whack.)

      A separate flavor of question certainly, but if you're looking for a solid performing typewriter to pair aesthetically and temporally with a '64 Strat, I'd go with a Royal FP ('57-62) (which came in Royaltone or Pearl Dark Gray smooth, Royaltone or Pearl Light Gray smooth, Willow Green smooth, Sea Blue smooth, Cameo Pink smooth (Petal Pink) , Brushed Aluminum, Sandstone smooth, and Coral Rose) or the smaller Royal Futura 800 ('58-'63).

    1. When it comes to some of the older manual typewriters, condition is king and a big determinant of price. For the budget range you're in, you're more likely to get something in mediocre shape that's going to require some work: cleaning, repairs, parts, other.

      Your best bet is to go to a repair shop that sells machines, put your hands on them, try them out, ask lots of questions, then buy your favorite. Your time is worth money and productivity, so buy something you like out of the gate and you'll save a lot in the long run. You'll probably be happier and better off in the long run with something in the £200-400 range. It will also give you something you can start using right away to get your work done rather than faffing about.

      Try shops from this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      I'd generally endorse most of the advice on models you'll find in these sources which are geared specifically toward writers, all three sources have lots experience and reasonable bona fides to make such recommendations. (Though they do tend toward some of the more expensive portables rather than the sturdier and more economical standard machines.)

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9dXflhDed0<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKMt-aCHZZk<br /> https://typewriterreview.com/2020/01/10/top-10-writerly-typewriters/

      Beyond this Just My Typewriter has a few short videos that'll give you a crash course on Typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      u/jbhusker's advice is solid if you prefer that sort of machine instead.

      reply to u/ArcherNF at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hdgte4/looking_for_a_recommendation/

    1. https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h4b3aw/is_there_a_source_that_exists_that_sells_or/

      If you need them for basic functionality, often you can find the manuals of the original manufacturers' models for rebrands (example: the Sears Tower machines which were really just rebrandings of the Smith-Corona 5 series).

      Additionally, after the 1930s there really wasn't a lot of new functionality, so almost any manual will help you to get you where you need to go, though there are some small differences in locations of things like carriage locks which can be helpful to know about and whose placement moved around on various machines.

      You might also notice that as typewriters were more ubiquitous in the 60s and 70s their manuals got thinner and thinner with less detail. If you do find a specific manual, you're unlikely to find very much in it.

      The Davis Brothers have some history on the Commodore line which was related to some of the Sears Chevron line. Polt does have two Commodore manuals which may be close to your machine: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

    1. On the value of typewriters

      As a hobbyist, you'll easily obtain several hundred dollars worth of potential diversion and satisfaction out of your alluring typewriter by cleaning, properly oiling, and adjusting it. Then you're guaranteed to both give and receive thousands of dollars worth of happiness out of it by typing letters to family and friends. With practice, you may reap millions by writing stories, plays, poems, screenplays, and books.

      Even if your scintillating typewriter sits on a shelf as home decor only to be viewed as a museum piece, you'll have gotten $50 of value for even that lowly function.

      You'll only have wasted your money if your wondorous typewriter sits lonely and forgotten in a dusty attic or dank basement to rust and rot away.

      Might you have gotten it for less? Perhaps, but you've saved yourself a huge amount of time and effort in such a hunt for a machine as desirous as this. You have it in front of you for writing right now.

      So get to typing at once my friend! For time is money, and every moment your fingers aren't caressing its keys, you are losing value.

      Congratulations on your stunning find.


      reply to u/readysalted344 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h3jyyt/did_i_waste_my_money/

  2. Nov 2024
    1. reply to u/Pawps4895 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1h1dcil/help_ink_ribbon_not_moving/

      That ghosting effect you're seeing may be down to your typing technique. Computer keyboard typing technique is different than typewriter technique. If you're pressing hard and/or bottoming the keys out, you may not be getting your fingers out of the way and causing the key to double strike while you're lifting your finger up.

      Instead, type as if they keys are hot lava. Strike and release them as quickly as possible and that ghosting should clear up. For more on technique, try: https://hypothes.is/users/chrisaldrich?q=tag%3A%22typing+technique%22

      If that isn't the issue, is that ghosting happening on all the keys or just a few? Cleaning things out certainly couldn't hurt: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

    1. Start of an outline for a longer article on typewriter tools<br /> Suggested by reply to u/Confident_Avocado768 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gy25og/christmas_gift_help/


      If they've been doing restoration for a while, try to find out what they already have to avoid duplication. Anyone who's done a few machines is likely to have a lifetime supply of lubricant (it really goes a long way) and is likely to have gone well beyond cotton swabs. The sort of kit you mention would be more appropriate to someone who's recently gotten their first typewriter, not someone who has restored more than a machine or two.

      Chances are that you can up the level of their restoration tool bag with a small handful of inexpensive and easy to source options:

      • oiler bottles for solvents/cleaning
      • spring hook (push)
      • spring hook (pull)
      • spring hook (captive)
      • wiping cloths (cotton)
      • nylon, brass, and steel brushes (example; 2 or 3 sets of these are always useful)
      • high quality wool mats make a great (soft) surface for working on machines (as well as for typing on). Here's some details and a link to a well-recommended one.

      I've documented some of my own versions of these with links at https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/

      Slightly more expensive tools that they may not have:

      If you really want to shoot the moon and they're into the older vintage machines, you could get them a new pair of keyring pliers: http://mytypewriter.com/hello-qwerty-typewriter-keyring-pliers-kit.aspx

      You can also browse Lucas Dul's kit for other ideas via this presentation: https://virtualhermans.com/lucas-dul

      Good luck and Merry Christmas! 🪛🛠️🎅🏼🎄

    1. Useful template for emailing about shipping typewriters


      Dear TK:

      Quite often typewriters are damaged beyond repair in shipping. This is particularly true of larger/heavier typewriters like this one.

      Primary concerns are to prevent movement of the carriage and protecting the carriage knobs and the silver carriage return arm.

      Please use an elastic band(s)/rubber band(s) to permanently hold the carriage release lever to the green carriage knob(s). The carriage release lever is the silver piece just above the green knobs on either side of the typewriter carriage (the part that would move back and forth while typing.) This should allow the carriage to move freely back and forth to the right or the left and prevent any damage to the delicate escapement mechanism inside the typewriter.

      Next, to prevent damage to the carriage with respect to the heavy metal frame, use plastic wrap or bubble wrap to ensure that the carriage is roughly centered on the typewriter (or flush on the left side) and can’t move back or forth while being shipped.

      Finally, ensure appropriate amounts of packing material around the carriage, the knobs, and the return lever to prevent them from being broken or damaged in shipping. In particular, make sure there isn’t any empty space (or dead space) inside the box or the machine is guaranteed to bounce around and break. The box being dropped accidentally from even a foot or two is enough to either bend or break the heavy frame or destroy the carriage. This sort of damage is often what makes what is otherwise a fully functional typewriter a useless boat anchor.

      Thanks in advance for your kind assistance in helping this vintage machine reach me in its best condition!

      Warmest regards, name

      Video example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNISoY_7g9s Written example: https://johnlewismechanicalantiques.com/packing-instructions/

    1. They still have some specific use cases where they aren't obsolete. For example I've worked at several law firms and every one of them had at least one office typewriter. They are super useful when you're working with older documents and want the additions to look professional and consistent. For example I once worked on a complex stock reissue where I was working with 100 year old stock certificates. Typing on them was muuuuuch faster, easier, and cleaner with a typewriter than trying to line up the old certificates in a laser printer

      u/Tarcalion via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gtyai7/typewriters_arent_obsolete_now_and_in_the_future/lxrd9zc/

    1. It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.

      People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.

      The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.

    1. And this is where you see how the condition of a machine comes into play when pricing is being considered. A $700 machine has had several hours of cleaning and potential reconditioning, parts, repairs, oiling, and adjusting done. At $700 and given it's age, I'd also want to ask if they've replaced the platen. Compare this with a dirty, old machine that's going to need those same hours of work, attention, parts, and new rubber, to bring it up to par and it's definitely not going to fetch the same price.

      And this is exactly what is wrong with 95% of the market: most buyers and sellers have no idea what they've got, much less the condition it's in or the work that it takes to bring these back to life for another 50-75 years. Thus they price their dirty, and rough machines at the same prices as the repair shops thinking they're going to make a mint. Apparently they're all hoping some sucker who doesn't know better will buy it.

      Remember: Dante has a special circle of hell for those who buy typewriters for pennies on the dollar and flip them on eBay without doing any work on them.

    1. Hi friends! I received a vintage teal blue SCM Smith Corona "Skyriter" typewriter. It is awesome, but it does not have the original spools. I ordered an expensive original ribbon from eBay, but it was totally dried out. Then I ordered an inexpensive "universal" (2") spool from Amazon that didn't fit in my machine. Does anyone have recommendations of new, small spool (1 5/8") ribbons that tend to be reliably inky? I am located in Canada and getting tired of paying import costs on stuff that doesn't work. Thanks in advance!

      reply to u/actualwoey at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gqhied/recommendations_for_reliable_new_small_spool_1_58/

      You could see if a local repair shop is parting out a machine or has spools that would work for you. iirc the Corona Zephyr, Skyriter, and the later versions of the Corsair all used that smaller spool size, usually described as 1 5/8" or 1 2/3". https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html Once you've got the correct sized spools, you can wind your Amazon ribbon onto them, but you'll likely have to trim it down to fit. (2" spools usually have 16 yards of ribbon while the 1 5/8" accommodate about 12 yards.)

      If you can't come up with original metal spools to respool your 1/2" ribbon onto, you can try https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/category-s/12779.htm which will sell you both in one go.

      Some other ribbon options: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1. I've had good luck buying bulk ribbon from both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line.

      I've heard some have successfully re-juvenated old ribbon by spraying it (unspooled into a box) with WD-40 or glycerine to re-wet it and then respooling it.

    1. https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/fillers/fil-stik-putty-sticks/

      Putty sticks (aka paint sticks) are good for filling in nicks and dings on furniture.

      These putty sticks and some crayons are also great for restoring the colored index lines on typewriters as well as other colored metal parts and occasionally on some plastic typewriter keys.

      M231-10104 SYY Red<br /> M230-0054 Crimson Rose #SN292<br /> M230-0046 COCONUT, COTTON, BRIE, HEAVY CREAM, SNOWFLAKE <br /> M230-0090 Picket Fence

    1. In the video for Walk on Water (2017), a song about art, aging, self-doubt, insecurity, criticism, and creativity, Eminem and his various clones use SMC Classic 12 typewriters to type random words in a nod to Émile Borel's 1913 analogy of dactylographic monkeys with respect to statistical mechanics.

      The video closes with Eminem showing typed evidence of his creative genius: "So me and you are not alike / Bitch, I wrote 'Stan'".

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryr75N0nki0

      Notice the overlap of the dactylographic monkey idea and the creation of combinatorial creativity in Eminem's zettelkasten practice. The fact that he's brilliant enough to have created Stan (2000) is evidence that he's not just a random monkey, but that there is some directed thought and creativity which he has tacitly created during his career. https://boffosocko.com/2021/08/10/55794555/

  3. Oct 2024
    1. They're looking at what others online are listed for (and not what they've actually sold for) to set their price. They probably have no idea what the typewriter market is like and what the value of their machine really is based on a variety of factors including make/model, condition, servicing, extras, typeface. Unless their machine has an exceptionally rare typeface (usually adds $80-150) or has a brand new rubber (usually adds 30-40 for new feet) or a new platen ($100-180), then in its current condition it's probably not worth more than $50.

      Once you get it, you're going to want to have it cleaned, oiled, and adjusted which will run you several hours of labor and materials at a repair shop at $50-75 per hour. It may also need one or two replacement parts.

      If talking to them about the price doesn't bring it down significantly then you should pass on it. If you're not up to cleaning, adjusting, oiling a machine yourself, your best bet is to purchase something from a repair shop that already is. You'll have a far better experience. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      For comparison here's some similar machines professionally cleaned, serviced, with new ribbons and a 3 month warranty from $240-350 with some of the price depending on particular model and desirability of color. https://reeselectronics.com/search.php?search_query=smith+corona+silent&x=0&y=0

      If you've got money to burn then maybe it's worth $180 to you, but if that's the case then get something in much nicer condition from a repair shop.


      reply to u/EmergencyFirst7634 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gcyayc/this_a_good_buy/

    1. If the "Hanks Effect" was really so prominent, then we should see the commensurate rise in price of 5 Series Smith Coronas and particularly the Clipper and the Silent which he's also mentioned several times. In fact, he's said these would be the typewriter he'd keep if he had to get rid of all others. Given this fact, it has to be, in part, a variety of other factors which inflates the prices.

      Personally I think that it's a combination of the fact that they were manufactured at the peak of typewriter use and manufacturing and before companies began using more plastic and cheaper manufacturing methods, but were also done in a later timeperiod when exterior design and color were on the rise as a differentiator in the marketplace. Quality, form, and function become part of a trifecta which drive desire and collectability.

    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

    1. Royal KMM KMG Typewriter Feet Spacers Original Smashed Rubber Replaced by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Squished rubber feet spacers on the Royal standard typewriters can cause interfere with the universal bar and when they do, they'll need replacement.

      This is the same sort of interference seen on Olympia SM3s due to their squished/flattened rubber gaskets, though the symptoms are different.


      "Phoenix typewriter. Have a Royal day!" <br /> A slightly different sign off from Duane's usual... :)

    1. I consider Valentines 'designer' typewriters, and generally overrated. If you want to write on an Olivetti, I'd go for the Lettera 22/32/DL. The Valentine is based on the Lettera 32, so the mechanical part is solid, but the Valentine is not as well-balanced as the 32. And about ten times more expensive.

      Me starts thinking about cornering the market in Lettera 32s and 3D printing Valentine cases to put onto them...

    1. Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

      A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I've compiled and consumed over the last six months, so don't be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month of reading and researching.

      Basic Introductory Material

      Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you'll remember where you found the random information you're bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

      Work your way through Sarah Everett's excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      Read Richard Polt's book which is a great overview to the general space:<br /> Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

      Next watch the documentary California Typewriter. Documentary. Gravitas Pictures, 2016. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5966990/. It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you're headed off to.

      Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it.

      Basic restoration advice: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      On colloquial advice for degreasing, cleaning, and oiling manual typewriters https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Repair Manuals

      Create an account on typewriterdatabase.com which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs.

      They also have some openly accessible material like:<br /> * https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php

      Printed manuals: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&contributor=Ted+Munk&page=1&pageSize=50 PDF manuals: https://sellfy.com/twdb

      Ted Munk's website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful * https://munk.org/typecast/

      Richard Polt's list of service manuals, which also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Tools

      In rough order of increasing complexity:

      Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

      Videos

      Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

      While watching a variety of videos is great, as you're doing specific repairs search YouTube and you're likely to find full demos of the repairs you're doing yourself.

      I've compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

      If you're not a good typist or don't have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

      Internships & Apprenticeships

      If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can't spend the time on an internship. You'll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they're parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

      Podcasts

      Some useful Bibliography

      Good luck on your journey!


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gaza5x/learning_typewriter_maintenance_and_repair/

    1. Usually the keys on most typewriters are friction fit on and come off pretty easily. The tougher part is that the slugs are soldered onto the typebars, so you'll need to remove them and swap them with a soldering arm. Even if you have the soldering tools, the more trying part is aligning them properly when putting them back on. Many old school shops have/had custom jigs made for properly aligning slugs when soldering them on.

      If you don't have the tools, patience or facility, this is usually something best left to your favorite shop: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gb3dwc/change_the_keys_and_type_slugs/

    1. You might not want to get too hung up on sound deadening material. Anything is better than nothing and stick on felt works just fine. Most of the noise from a typewriter comes from the paper being slapped between the platen. A new platen will give you more quiet sessions. Any felt added will keep out any high pitch resonant echos but it's not going to do a whole lot for the overall volume you will experience. A good typing mat like wool, and a new platen are by far the two optimal solutions for noise. Felt can be a bonus but unless it's a complete tin can rattle trap, the difference between 1mm and 3mm felt probably isnt going to rock your world.

      via Gerren @ HotRod Typewriter Co. at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3903042456599841/

      new platen > felt typewriter pad >> new felt in a typewriter for dampening sound.

    1. Pretty much all manual typewriters use 1/2" (12.7mm) wide ribbon which is most of what you're probably going to find in the marketplace.

      The thing that changes from machine to machine is is the potentially proprietary spools and those are usually specific to how the ribbion auto switch is effectuated. Most ribbon comes with small grommets about 10-12 inches from the ends as many machines need this to trigger the switch over. If the plastic spools you purchase don't work with your particular machine you simply spend a minute or two to hand wind it onto your existing original (metal) spools and go from there.

      There are lots of videos on YouTube showing how to hand wind ribbon onto a machine. Sarah has a pretty reasonable one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up412FjTEkw

      Even Tom Hanks has a ribbon changing video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0

      Incidentally, if your seller specifies them, the Underwoods take Group 9 (GR9) spools. Likely not helpful or illustrative for you, but certainly interesting from a historical perspective, Ted Munk has a catalog of Typewriter Ribbon varieties Offered by Underwood in 1956: https://munk.org/typecast/2020/08/23/typewriter-ribbon-varieties-offered-by-underwood-in-1956/


      reply to u/prettiestGOAT at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g8z0fm/can_anyone_help_id_this_underwood_typewriter_and/

    1. Sanding and polishing the keys on my Smith-Corona Silent Super. A lesson to all, use foil when using PBlaster to clean, not a rag. It still melts plastic when it soaks through the rag…

      All the videos on YouTube are generally of mechanics who are covering things up for a quick operation (like cleaning slugs) and not for longer cleans. This can be misleading for those who are doing longer term work where the rags need to withstand more liquid or are sitting for longer.

    1. Does anyone know how do they make new platens?

      reply to u/General-Writing1764 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g7a8y5/does_anyone_know_how_do_they_make_new_platens/

      I'm guessing that JJ Short is taking the original, removing the rubber. Placing the core into a mold and pouring in new material which hardens. Once done they put it on a lathe and turn it down to the appropriate (original) diameter. Potentially they're sanding the final couple of thousands of an inch for finish.

      I'd imagine that if you asked them, they could/would confirm this general process.

      The only other shop I've heard doing platen work is Bob at Typewriter Muse, but I haven't gone through his YouTube videos to see what his process looks like. (I'm pretty sure he documents some of it there.)

    1. For an inexpensive starter machine ($5-25) that's easy to find, easy to get parts for and has a reasonable chance of working when in "unknown" or "untested" condition, I'd recommend one of the following ubiquitous, but solid machines which show up almost daily on ShopGoodwill.com:

      They'd all make excellent starter machines for a younger kid. The black models with glass keys from the 1940s will look a bit more old school/classic while the more industrial browns and grays with plastic keys from the 1950s are still solid choices. You might also find some later 60s/70s versions of these machines (or variations), and while they may be a bit more colorful, they'll usually have a lot more cheap plastic and can potentially have cheaper builds. (My parents got me my first typewriter, a 1948 Smith-Corona Clipper, in the mid-1980s when I was 10—I have it today and it still works as well as it did then; I still also love the airplane on the hood.)

      If you want something simple with a bit of color you can also look at the 70s/80s Brother Charger 11 which is pretty ubiquitious and inexpensive as well.

      Since you have some time, you can wait for one in better looking cosmetic condition (and with a case) which means it was probably better taken care of, and less likely to need aggressive cleaning, and more likely to work without needing any repairs. You can also wait to find one local that you can pick up in person (to save shipping cost and/or potential damage) or which will be cheaper to ship from nearby.

      Without any experience, you might try looking at Just My Typewriter's Typewriter 101 series on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS She covers most of the basics there.

      Cleaning a machine isn't horribly difficult and can be done pretty cheaply ($20 or less for some paint thinner/isopropyl and a small toothbrush), but if you need it or get a machine that needs some repair work, try https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html.

      If you're in an area with lots of yard sales, try shopping around and see if you find something interesting. It's at these that you'll have a potential chance of finding more collectible machines for pennies on the dollar and it'll also give you the chance to put your hands on machines to test them out to make sure they work.

      Good luck! 🎄


      reply to u/strawberystegosaurus at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g5rgi4/typewriter_for_christmas_please_help/

    1. Advanced Typing: Duplicating and Manuscript. Vol. MN-1512d, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ve5JnTUzvo.

      Stencils

      Before writing stencils, be sure to clean your type. (Don't use liquid solvent.)

      Be sure to place the cushion sheet properly behind the stencil.

      Place the paper bail rollers at the extreme left and right of the stencil to prevent them from marking the master.

      For errors, rub individual characters separately with a burnisher using a circular motion.

      Hectograph masters, Hectograph ribbon (ditto ribbon)

      Wax pencils

      Typefaces

      20% more type on a page with elite than 10 inch pica.

      Pica allows approximately 26-40 lines on standard letterhead giving 300-450 words to a page.

      Special characters: - o for degrees ' and " for feet and inches or minutes and seconds along with superscript - division: - backspace colon - pound sterling: L backspace f - exclamation point: period backspace ' - equal sign: hyphen backspace variable hyphen - paragraph mark: P backspace I

      proofreaders' marks<br /> # followed by a number is used to mean insert that number of spaces

      Centering timestamp 19:37

    1. 1962 Vintage IBM Typewriter Training Film IBM Selectric Proper Typing Procedures, w/ Bud McDole by [[Computer History Archives Project]]

      Right at the Typewriter. 16 mm. San Francisco, CA: KQED, 1962. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPfHAW_OfGo.

      On manual typewriters one "snaps" the keys while on an electric keyboard one "taps" the keys for maximum speed and accuracy.

      Overview of functionality of an IBM typewriter.

      To add longevity to one's carbon papers they should be rotated both top to bottom and front to back within one's packs.

      Use plastic type cleaner, meant for cleaning type slugs, to clean the excess ink from a typewriter. Form it into a point and press it to the letter to erase several times. Then erase with eraser shield and eraser.

      To type to the very bottom of the page, particularly with a carbon pack, to prevent slippage at the bottom, insert a "trailer sheet" about halfway down the first page. Insert it at the back of the pack just behind the original and between the first carbon sheet.

      For typing small sheets of paper (index cards) fold a pleat into a regular sheet of paper and use the lip to hold the smaller sheet you're typing on.

      To more quickly type envelopes, do the first then reverse the platen so that only about an inch of the top of the envelope is visible. Then insert the next envelope behind the first and continue reversing the platen. This will allow the finished envelopes to stack at the paper table and speed the threading and typing of envelopes in rapid succession.

      Use of the divots on the typing guide for making horizontal or vertical lines while moving the carriage or rotating the platen respectively.

      How to change the typeball and the ribbon cartridge on the IBM selectric.

    1. So I have a typewriter with a diamond-hard platen. All the usual tricks for softening didn't work, and sanding the hard layer back revealed that the rubber had entirely perished all the way to the core; so I've removed it. Now, I'm in Australia, and there is no professional group here that replaces platens. So I've been looking at home fixes, old manufacturing techniques, and I think I have a solution. I have wrapped a few thin layers of cork around the platen core, and I intend to finish it off with perhaps two layers of heat shrink rubber tomorrow. I think the end result will be a platen with a firm strike face and a softer centre to absorb the strikes. My trial with the cork on its own was promising, but it was ultimately a little too soft. I could harden it with urethane or resin, but in the interest of being able to undo my work, I will try the rubber first. Will keep you informed.

      One of the few others aside from JJ Short who is doing platens is Bob over at Typewriter Muse. Might be worth checking out his YouTube channel for some potential tips.

      I presume you're already aware of how to make your ring and cylinder adjustments when you're done, so things are properly tuned...

      Can't wait to see what you come up with...


      reply to u/throneofashes at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g2j4hz/platen_experiment/

    1. I've picked up about 20 of the typewriters in my collection from ShopGoodwill.

      Only two were impeccably/properly packaged and shipped and one of these was a special machine that I emailed them after purchase with written details and links to videos about how to pack and ship it just to be on the safe side.

      Three were dreadful disasters: one was a 40 pound standard that was dropped and the frame bent drastically (it had almost no padding materials inside the box), two were shoved into cases (one upside down and the other right side up, but neither locked into their cases properly nor with their carriage locks engaged so they both bounced around for the entire trip) and put into boxes with almost no packing material. All three refunded portions of the price and/or all the shipping costs.

      Most of the remainder (all portables with cases) were packaged with a modicum of care (some packing material in the case and some outside the case with reasonable boxes) and showed up in reasonable condition.

      Two of the machines were local enough that I did a local pick up to ensure better care.

      Generally, it's a crapshoot, but this is also the reason why I don't spend more than $20 on any machine I get from them (except one reasonably rare German typewriter in the US and a Royal with a Vogue typeface that still came out at less than $100 because only one other person noticed its rarity in the photos).

      Only one of the machines was clean as a whistle and ready to type on day one. All the remainder required serious cleanings at a minimum. Two were missing internal pieces, two had repairable drawband issues, one had dramatically bad escapement issues, and one had a destroyed mainspring that I need to replace.

      Only one of the group had a platen with any life left in it. One had a completely unusable platen, but it was also relatively obvious in the photos. Most of the rest were hard, but usable.

      I live in the US and typically only bid on machines that are in the top 20% of their class cosmetically.

      I'll echo the thought of others that I wouldn't have a machine from them shipped directly to someone as a present unless I knew they were a tinkerer and had the mechanical ability, the facilities/tools, and desire to clean and service their own machine. Otherwise, I'd do that myself and ship it to them directly.


      reply to u/Tico_Typer at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g28v6z/i_am_curious_about_the_shopping_goodwill_websites/

    1. Typing Technique and Typewriter Design by [[Will Davis]] and [[Dave Davis]]

      As early as 1932 Royal salesmen would use poor typing technique on purpose to cause skipping and piling and then use proper technique on their own machine to show how much better their typewriters were compared to the others.

      Some repair and service manuals had sections about tuning a typewriter to the level of technique of the user. These may have included 5-6 specific adjustments for allowance to a particular user's technique, as an example indicated in this video.

      "pounded out" - used by a heavy handed typist and now skipping (mentioned possibly in an Ames Repair Manual)

      In the mid-century, the service life of a standard machine was 1-3 years of continual (heavy) use. After this it would have been remanufactured or swapped out.

    1. I just got a 1950 version of this KMG this week in medium rough shape too. (My 7th Royal and my 2nd Standard)

      Looks like a Royal KMG with the Henry Dreyfuss glass tombstone keys in Gray Frieze paint. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.KMG.72.bmys

      Mine has some minor carriage issues that I'm hoping clear up with some cleaning. Otherwise it may need some tools and internal repair work and/or parts. If yours is generally working, a good cleaning and oiling should get you going: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Diagram of parts: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg

      Manual of the prior model KMM which preceeded it, so the functionalilty should be almost exactly the same: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf (Royal Standard internals were almost exactly the same from the Ten (1909) through the FP/Empress (1966).)

      Home Study Course in Typewriter Repair and Service: ca. 1959, published by the Typewriter Repair School in Little Falls, New Jersey. Focuses on the Royal KMM among others: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/homestudycourse.pdf

      See also:<br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.royal-repair.manual - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.royal-parts-01.manual

      Searching on YouTube for cleaning and repair advice should help out a lot. Phoenix Typewriter has some solid videos on related models (search also the Royal X (ten), KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, and Empress which are all roughly the same internals with slightly different body styles.)

      If you need some basic typewriter 101, try: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      reply to u/MajesticWear5478 https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g1i440/tips_for_cleaning_and_fixing_a_1949_royal/#lightbox

    1. When an Article or Book has been written, it must betype-written before it is sent to the Editor or Publisher,that is to say, unless it has been ordered beforehand orunless you are well known. The reason is not simplythat Type-writing looks better than ordinary writing,and that it is easier to read, but it actually is a fact thatfew Editors or Publishers will read anything that is notType- written.

      Even as early as 1905 (or 1899 if we go by the dating of the introduction), typewritten manuscripts were de rigueur for submission to editors and publishers.

    Tags

    Annotators

    1. In David Gerrold's The Trouble with Tribbles: The Story Behind Star Trek's Most Popular Episode, he describes how he used a 12-pitch Selectric to type the 1967 episode. When the studio retyped it in pica (10-pitch) it came out to 90 pages and had to be cut down significantly to fit the show's running time.

      The difference amounts to approximately 3 words per page and about 50 words per page.

    1. The 2024 Phoenix Type-In by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Platen shrinkage

      • most typewriters are 6 lines per inch
      • 6.5 lines per inch based on actual measurement per JVC on one of his machines
      • 2mm shrinkage??
      • Per Bob/Typewriter Muse 1.1

      Bob had a machine that was supposed to be 1.27 but was measured at 1.259 when pulled off. So shrinkage of platens can be roughly fifteen hundredths of an inch (0.015" or about 0.4mm)

      Bob at Typewriter Muse custom tunes platens to the typewriter. Only place doing platens outside of JJ Short.

      JVC's partner took him to the Phoenix Type-in for her birthday.

      Bill Wahl of Mesa Typewriter Exchange

      grandfather started in the 40s<br /> bill started in 73<br /> part time help to 92 and now by himself<br /> does his benchwork after hours and chats during the day

      Ted Munk

      adding machine database consideration

      looking for service manuals for: - royal portables 50-59<br /> - skyriter 40s / 50s<br /> - sm9 service manual

      Royal Mercury manual is a clear, well-written manual. The Smith-Corona series 5 typewriter manuals are great too, though a bit more dense.

      Brian Goode and Christy organized this year's Phoenix Type-In.

    1. I’ve currently only fixed the platen and reconnected the space bar. Issue I’m having is the letters are really faint and cut off almost half way through.

      Often after you resurface a platen, it slightly changes the configuration of the platen with respect to the typeface. As a result one usually may need to do three adjustments in a specific order to get things to align properly again. These can definitely be done at home with some patience.

      Usually the order for tweaking is: * Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good). Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. * On Feet adjustment (vertical adjustment so that letters are bright and clear and neither top or bottom of characters are too light/faint) Repair shops will often type /// or a variety of characters with longer ascenders/descenders to make sure that the type is clear from top to bottom. * Motion adjustment (the lower and upper case letters are at the same level with respect to each other) The best way to test this is to type a center character like HHHhhhHHH to see if they line up on the bottom (the last three Hs are usually done with the Shift Lock on to make sure that's properly set).

      You can search YouTube videos for your model (or related models) and these words which may uncover someone doing a similar repair, so you have a better idea of what you're doing and where to make the adjustments.

      Here's Joe Van Cleave describing some of it in one of his early videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0AozF2Jfo0

      The general principles for most typewriters are roughly the same with slight variations depending on whether your machine is a segment shift or a carriage shift. You should roughly be able to puzzle out which screws to adjust on your particular model to get the general outcome you want.

      Related blogposts: * https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/<br /> * https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

      You might find a related repair manual for your machine with more detail and diagrams for these adjustments via the Typewriter Database or on Richard Polt's typewriter site.

      For those not mechanically inclined you may be better off taking it onto a repair shop for a quick adjustment. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html 

      Reply to u/Acethease at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1d76ygx/got_a_as_a_gift_corona_3_recentlyish_and_i_need/

    1. Oliver Sacks Archive Heads to the New York Public Library by [[Jennifer Schuessler]]

      The voluminous papers of the celebrated neurologist include letters, notebooks, drafts and other traces of a man who couldn’t stop writing.

      You have to love the boos, notebooks, papers, fountain pen, typewriter, computer, printer, and even writing software all pictured in this... Add the glasses and it just reeks of someone who reads and writes.

  4. Sep 2024
    1. I visited the Supply Sergeant store on Hollywood Blvd yesterday, and for $15 they were selling a "regulator bag." This was 11 3/4" x 11 3/4" x 3". Perfect for carrying a Hermes Baby/Rocket! Here is another, but more expensive: https://www.akona.com/products/product?productId=11406

      u/pbasch is in the LA area

    1. A business in agreement with Dul is Kibbitznest Books, Brews & Blarney on Clybourn in Sheffield Neighbors, which strives to be unplugged and WiFi free. The cafe, bar, bookstore, and venue has five typewriters provided by Kibbitznest, Inc., the nonprofit associated with the business, although only one typewriter is currently in working order and available to use by customers. Annie Kostiner founded both the nonprofit and business aspects of Kibbitznest (the for-profit cafe is now run by Paige Hoffman).
    2. That desire for a “digital detox” is frequently brought up amongst typewriter aficionados—it’s an escape from pop-up ads, spyware, AI-generated content, doomscrolling, deepfakes, obnoxious comments sections, and all the other headaches that hit you at Internet speed. A piece of paper in a typewriter, on the other hand, is a simpler connection of your thoughts tapped out letter by letter, mistakes and all.
    1. Looking for a keyboarded writing device without harsh screen lights...

      Since you're asking in r/typewriters, here's a list of what some well known playwrights, screenwriters, and directors used and would likely have recommended for writing tools without harsh screens. Personally I'm in Tom Hank's camp and would recommend a Smith-Corona Clipper.

      • Edward Albee: Remington 17 or KMC
      • Ray Bradbury: Underwood (no. 5?), 1947 Royal KMM #3756210, IBM Selectric, IBM Wheelwriter, Silver-Seiko ultraportable (likely branded as Royal)
      • Bertolt Brecht: Erika
      • Mikhail Bulgakov: Olympia 8 (photo from Bulgakov museum)
      • Paddy Chayefsky (playwright, May 1954): Underwood Standard Model 6, ca. 1946; Royal HH; Olympia SG3
      • William Goldman: Olympia SM9
      • Matt Groening: Hermes Rocket
      • Alfred Hitchcock: '30s black Underwood Champion portable
      • Sidney Howard (screenwriter, Gone With the Wind): Remington Noiseless Portable #N49669
      • John Hughes (director): Olympia SM3
      • Buster Keaton: Blickensderfer no. 5
      • Stanley Kubrick: Adler Tippa S
      • Ring Lardner: L. C. Smith
      • Ernest Lehman: Royal Electress
      • David Mamet: Smith-Corona portable, Olympia SM4, Olympia SM9, IBM Selectric
      • Arthur Miller bought a used Smith-Corona portable in the late '30s (for one anonymous contest, he submitted a play that he said was "by Corona."). Later he used a '50s Smith-Corona Silent Super and a Royal KMG (1955 photo, another photo). He wrote his later plays on an IBM desktop computer. (Arthur Miller: His Life and Work, by Martin Gottfried, p. 26, 112, and 381.)
      • F. W. Murnau: Remington portable no. 2 (1931 photo)
      • Clifford Odets (1962): Royal Quiet DeLuxe, ca. 1957
      • Rod Serling: Royal KMG (photo 1, photo 2)
      • Neil Simon: Olympia SM9
      • Steven Spielberg: Smith-Corona Coronamatic 2200 (photo 1, photo 2)
      • James Thurber: Underwood no. 5
      • John Waters: ca. 1950 Underwood (1961 photo), IBM A or B
      • Orson Welles: 1926 woodgrain Underwood portable #4B73700 (Welles typing on it), ’30s Underwood Noiseless Portable, Smith-Corona (?)
      • Tennessee Williams: Remington portable no. 2, 1936 Corona Junior #1F9874J (formerly in Steve Soboroff's collection), mid-1940s Corona Sterling, Royal KMM, Hermes Baby (gift from Margo Jones, 1947, according to John Lahr, Tennessee Williams: Mad Pilgrimage of the Flesh, Bloomsbury, 2014), Olivetti Studio 44 (picture 1, picture 2, picture 3, picture 4 1955), Remington portable #5 flat top, Remington Standard M, Olympia SM8. (This man loved to have himself photographed with his writing machines!)

      If you need some other recommendations from novelists and others, you could try: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/typers.html

      If you like Scrivener, but want to get away from screens, you can look back to Frank Daniels' method with index cards which he taught to thousands of screenwriters including David Lynch. Variations can be seen at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrvawtrRxsw and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwKjuBvNi40. Vladimir Nabokov used a very similar method for his novels which is fairly well documented: https://www.openculture.com/2014/02/the-notecards-on-which-vladimir-nabokov-wrote-lolita.html

    1. What do you mean with Zettelkasten ratchet? I am too unfamiliar with the word ratchet to really understand the meaning.[9:46 AM] Or if someone else has an idea and can help me out

      The additional "hidden context" is that the rachet/gear seen in many of these diagrams is usually attached to a radial spring (or some other device) which, as it is wound, stores energy which is later used by the bigger device in which the rachet and pawl are encased. Examples include the stem of watches, which when wound, store energy which the watch later uses to run as it counts the seconds. Another example is the mainspring of a typewriter which is attached to a ratchet/pawl set up; when you push the carriage to the right, the spring gets wound up and stores energy which is slowly expended by the escapement a space or a letter at a time as you type. In the zettelkasten analogy, the box and numbered cards placed in it act as the pawl (the wedge that prevents backward movement), as you add more and more information, you're storing/building up "potential energy" in small bits. This "stored energy" can be spent at a later time by allowing you to more easily write an article, paper, book, etc. In some sense, the zettelkasten (as most tools do) allows you a "mechanical advantage" in the writing process over trying to remember everything you've ever read and then relying on your ability to spit it all back out in a well-ordered manner.


      reply to Muhammed Ali at https://discord.com/channels/992400632390615070/992400632776507447/1286577013439594497

      continuation of https://hypothes.is/a/GTPIPnYiEe-GTUu4YcdeAQ

    1. Typewriters? In 2024? Are You Nuts? by Jesse M. Slater for [[Raconteur Press]]

      A short, but relatively solid typewriter 101 story for someone looking for a distraction-free writing machine. Certainly not completist, but enough to get your toes wet.

      Slater uses his typewriter for a first draft, then edits the second draft as he re-types it into his computer to have a digital copy for further editing and distribution.

    1. reply to u/NoDoctor4602 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1fjrjns/ive_spent_a_few_days_searching_for_any_concrete/

      In the mid to late-1950's and after several typewriter manufacturers made limited runs of gold plated typewriters for special anniversaries or for bonuses to salespeople. They're uncommon, but not rare. I've seen at least 6 or seven pop up on auction sites in the last 6 months. If you really want one, watch the lower end of Facebook Marketplace, ShopGoodwill, Craigslist, et al. where one will assuredly pop up for a much more reasonable price. I'm not sure if it was this one or another I've seen since April, but one of these went up for sale on ShopGoodwill.com recently and sold for about $600. A week later it was listed on eBay for several thousand just like this one. Given the timeframe, I doubt they spent any time cleaning, oiling, or adjusting it in any fashion—it was a pure flip. I've also seen this recently with Royal typewriters with a less common, but highly collectible Vogue typeface: a Royal P sold for about $900 there and was listed on eBay shortly after for over $1,500 with no indication that it was cleaned or adjusted. (If you watch some of the sites carefully, you can pick up a Vogue machine for under $100 easily enough depending on the type and condition.)

      In my mind, as a collector, I'd try to find one in the wild and clean it up or I'd want it in stunning restored condition for over $2k. You might be just as well off picking up a working model for $100-$150 and gold plating the pieces yourself. It would probably be cheaper in the long run and you'd have a better machine in better condition. Some sucker with money to burn will eventually buy a Gold Olympia SM3 for over $2,000.

      Here's a vew posts/videos as examples of gold plated machines:<br /> - A video of another Gold Olympia: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnUHgyABjw0<br /> - Royal QDL https://typespec.com/weve-got-gold-in-them-thar-hills/<br /> - https://www.huffpost.com/entry/kasbah-mod-typewriters_n_1453776

      If you're looking for something great that you'll use, I recommend visiting a repair shop that has some stock to try out some machines to see if you'd like their touch/fee/aesthetics first. Visiting a type-in or two might give you some experience with a wide variety of typewriter models as well. Then try to find a rare or exceptional version that's worth putting some money into. Why put so much into an Olympia if it turns out you're an Olivetti, Royal, or Smith-Corona person? https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html (I desperately love Royals, but Smith-Coronas and Remingtons are much more forgiving of my mediocre typing technique, a fact which pains me dearly and cost a few hundred dollars and some sweat equity in cleaning and tuning machines to discover). Incidentally, I'll mention that for about $2,000 you could easily purchase a wide variety of about two dozen machines (even with shipping) and be able to get something truly exceptional in terms of condition and function.

      Incidentally, the higher prices of $250-600 for repaired/refurbished/restored machines being sold by repair shops are usually what Harry Beercan is using as a pricing guide when he's selling his grandmother's musty, broken, old typewriter online not knowing that several hundred dollars in labor and parts has been calculated into the selling price.

    1. delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.

      Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.

      Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.

    1. Fossilized Masking Tape Removed Cleaned from Typewriter Body by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      The paint on the metal of the SMC 6 series typewriters will generally stand up well to lacquer thinner and along with scratching can be used to remove the old residual masking tape often found on these typewriters.

      WD-40, gun bore cleaner, and Simple Green generally don't do much to this sort of tape residue.

    1. Type-in activities:<br /> - learning about typewriters, both using and how they work;<br /> - demonstrations of typewriter maintenance, cleaning, how to change a ribbon, and small repairs for common problems - typewriter tool showcases - what tools might you need to maintain, clean, and repair your typewriter? - lots of machines to try out, which might best suit your writing style, and typing touch? If you don't have a typewriter, this is a great way to try some out before buying your first one - typewriter purchasing and collecting advice - encouraging typing as a distraction and screen-free writing tool - writing (fiction, non-fiction, poetry) along with potential writing prompts (this could dovetail in with other library-related writing endeavors); - A group story: A single typewriter is reserved to one side upon which each participant can contribute by typing a single sentence to create a collaborative/group story "exquisite corpse"-style; - typewriter art and arttyping - Speed typing contest (with small prizes) - We'll bring stationery (paper, envelopes, stamps) to encourage participants to type letters to friends or family (bring an address for someone you'd like to write to); - typewriter swap and sale (optional depending on the venue's perspective; sales are not the primary purpose here) - typewriter repairs using 3D printing or designing replacement parts (if the venue can support this) - typewriter handicrafts (typewriter covers and sewing/repairing cases) - typewriter resources (repair shops, where to find ribbon, how old is my machine?, et al.) - a possible typewriter mystery game? - share stories - encourage community

      For a local library-specific type in:<br /> - library card applications which can be typewritten for potential patrons who don't have a library card - typewriter books (particularly if hosted at a library; place a hold on several typewriter-related books which attendees can browse through at the event and check out afterward) - 3D printing typewriter keys, spare parts; design of replacement parts for 3D printing

      Attendees are encouraged to bring one (or many more of their own favorite manual typewriters) to use, showcase, or demonstrate to others, but having your own typewriter is NOT a requirement for attendance.

    1. https://myoldtypewriter.com/2018/08/05/adler-j3-please-release-me/

      Adler's have a quirky locking mechanism for helping to lock the machines into their cases and after decades of storage, the rubber can compress thereby locking the typewriter into the case permanently. Removing the e-clips internally will unlock them at which point the rubber compression locks can be replaced.

      The article mentions other incidences of this. Another example at https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1fckg8f/removing_triumph_gabriele_1_from_case_base_plate/

  5. www.reddit.com www.reddit.com
    1. Aluminum Foil Method: Tear off a small piece of aluminum foil and dip it in water or vinegar. Rub the rust spots gently with the foil. Aluminum is softer than chrome and will not scratch the surface while effectively removing rust. As you rub, the foil reacts with the rust, helping to dissolve it. Steel Wool Method (Use with Caution): If the rust is more severe, use fine steel wool (#0000 grade) to gently scrub the rusty areas. Be careful not to press too hard, as steel wool can scratch chrome if applied too aggressively.

      Suggestions for removing rust from chrome on typewriters and typewriter cases.

  6. Aug 2024
    1. I came across this note and saved it for you and all other Olympia SMx users; I do not know who the author is: "Can I just say, having been in the typewriter trade since 1975, PLEASE take it from me that the Group 1 (or Group 1001) ribbon intended for Olympia, Adler, Facit and many other makes DOES NOT have eyelets !! The ribbon mechanism is designed to trip and reverse when the ribbon gets taut as one spool becomes full and the other totally empty. Someone may well have fitted an eyeletted ribbon to a Group 1 spool as a bodge to get over a sluggish or badly adjusted ribbon reverse mechanism - to give the reversing fork an extra 'nudge'. The factory did not intend the ribbon to be reversed this way." In my experience, eyelets will often slip through the reversing arms and then hang up on the vibrator. You don't have to buy eyeletless ribbons; you can just cut them off the ends of your current ribbon and reattach to the spools.
    1. Typewriter Video Series - Episode 147: Font Sizes and the Writing Process by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      typewriters for note making

      double or 1 1/2 spacing with smaller typefaces may be more efficient for drafting documents, especially first drafts

      editing on actual paper can be more useful for some

      Drafting on a full sheet folded in half provides a book-like reading experience for reading/editing and provides an automatic backing sheet

      typewritten (or printed) sheets may be easier to see and revise than digital formats which may hide text the way ancient scrolls did for those who read them.

      Jack Kerouac used rolls of paper to provide continuous writing experience. Doesn't waste the margins of paper at the top/bottom. This may be very useful for first drafts.

      JVC likes to thread rolls of paper into typewriters opposite to the original curl so as to flatten the paper out in the end.