1,586 Matching Annotations
  1. Oct 2024
    1. Royal Typewriter KMG Mainspring Drawband Tightened Adjusted Tension by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      On the left rear corner underneath the carriage when moved to the right, one can easily see the mainspring and drawband assembly. Just behind it is a worm drive operated by a screw. Turning this screw counterclockwise will advance the worm drive to the left and increase the tension on the mainspring.

    1. Royal KMM KMG Typewriter Feet Spacers Original Smashed Rubber Replaced by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Squished rubber feet spacers on the Royal standard typewriters can cause interfere with the universal bar and when they do, they'll need replacement.

      This is the same sort of interference seen on Olympia SM3s due to their squished/flattened rubber gaskets, though the symptoms are different.


      "Phoenix typewriter. Have a Royal day!" <br /> A slightly different sign off from Duane's usual... :)

    1. ROYAL KMM Replacing Type Bar Link Remove Arm Repaired Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      This is roughly what I expected to be the case. I've got to shift the fulcrum pivot wire so I can reattach my Q and @ on a Royal KMG.

      Roughly similar to Gerren's video on swapping out typefaces, but with a slightly different technique for speed of doing that. See: https://hypothes.is/a/I_-9rBV2Ee-eMotzy9_Z-Q

    1. I consider Valentines 'designer' typewriters, and generally overrated. If you want to write on an Olivetti, I'd go for the Lettera 22/32/DL. The Valentine is based on the Lettera 32, so the mechanical part is solid, but the Valentine is not as well-balanced as the 32. And about ten times more expensive.

      Me starts thinking about cornering the market in Lettera 32s and 3D printing Valentine cases to put onto them...

    1. Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

      A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I've compiled and consumed over the last six months, so don't be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month of reading and researching.

      Basic Introductory Material

      Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you'll remember where you found the random information you're bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

      Work your way through Sarah Everett's excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      Read Richard Polt's book which is a great overview to the general space:<br /> Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

      Next watch the documentary California Typewriter. Documentary. Gravitas Pictures, 2016. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5966990/. It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you're headed off to.

      Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it.

      Basic restoration advice: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      On colloquial advice for degreasing, cleaning, and oiling manual typewriters https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Repair Manuals

      Create an account on typewriterdatabase.com which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs.

      They also have some openly accessible material like:<br /> * https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php

      Printed manuals: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&contributor=Ted+Munk&page=1&pageSize=50 PDF manuals: https://sellfy.com/twdb

      Ted Munk's website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful * https://munk.org/typecast/

      Richard Polt's list of service manuals, which also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#servicemanuals

      Tools

      In rough order of increasing complexity:

      Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

      Videos

      Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

      While watching a variety of videos is great, as you're doing specific repairs search YouTube and you're likely to find full demos of the repairs you're doing yourself.

      I've compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

      If you're not a good typist or don't have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

      Internships & Apprenticeships

      If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can't spend the time on an internship. You'll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they're parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

      Podcasts

      Some useful Bibliography

      Good luck on your journey!


      reply to u/fontinalispluma at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1gaza5x/learning_typewriter_maintenance_and_repair/

    1. You might not want to get too hung up on sound deadening material. Anything is better than nothing and stick on felt works just fine. Most of the noise from a typewriter comes from the paper being slapped between the platen. A new platen will give you more quiet sessions. Any felt added will keep out any high pitch resonant echos but it's not going to do a whole lot for the overall volume you will experience. A good typing mat like wool, and a new platen are by far the two optimal solutions for noise. Felt can be a bonus but unless it's a complete tin can rattle trap, the difference between 1mm and 3mm felt probably isnt going to rock your world.

      via Gerren @ HotRod Typewriter Co. at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3903042456599841/

      new platen > felt typewriter pad >> new felt in a typewriter for dampening sound.

    1. Pretty much all manual typewriters use 1/2" (12.7mm) wide ribbon which is most of what you're probably going to find in the marketplace.

      The thing that changes from machine to machine is is the potentially proprietary spools and those are usually specific to how the ribbion auto switch is effectuated. Most ribbon comes with small grommets about 10-12 inches from the ends as many machines need this to trigger the switch over. If the plastic spools you purchase don't work with your particular machine you simply spend a minute or two to hand wind it onto your existing original (metal) spools and go from there.

      There are lots of videos on YouTube showing how to hand wind ribbon onto a machine. Sarah has a pretty reasonable one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up412FjTEkw

      Even Tom Hanks has a ribbon changing video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0

      Incidentally, if your seller specifies them, the Underwoods take Group 9 (GR9) spools. Likely not helpful or illustrative for you, but certainly interesting from a historical perspective, Ted Munk has a catalog of Typewriter Ribbon varieties Offered by Underwood in 1956: https://munk.org/typecast/2020/08/23/typewriter-ribbon-varieties-offered-by-underwood-in-1956/


      reply to u/prettiestGOAT at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g8z0fm/can_anyone_help_id_this_underwood_typewriter_and/

    1. Dolettersin alinesometimesstart nicely,thenrundownhill?Thiscan’thappenifyouuse theline-spacinglever,insteadofrollingthepaper throughwiththecylinderknob.Inthelatter case, the rollerthatlocksthespacingofthe linesmaycometorest on topofaratchettooth,insteadofsettlingbetweentwoofthem.Whenthemachinestarts, thevibration graduallyjarsthecylinderarounduntilitreachesitsnormal position—droppinglettersasitturns.
    2. Cakedinkmayberemovedwithtypeputty,alcohol,carbontetrachloride,oroneoftheproprietarydry-cleaningfluids,appliedwithabrush.Pressthetypeputtyontothetype,peelitoff,andthecakedinkcomeswithit.Ifyouusealiquid,firstliftthetypeandputpaperunderitto prevent dirt from dripping into the machine. When using type-cleaning fluid, be sure toWipe the type dry with a cloth before using the place paper under type to prevent dirt frommachine again.

      dry cleaning solvents in 1941 were likely Varsol or Stoddard's Formula.

      compare to trichloroethane<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/EyBIAFXAEe-AcP-Atlj_aQ

      Note discontinuation of carbon tetrachloride<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/bfdi_I90Ee-OQLN0HpsE7Q

    1. Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

      This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

    1. Sanding and polishing the keys on my Smith-Corona Silent Super. A lesson to all, use foil when using PBlaster to clean, not a rag. It still melts plastic when it soaks through the rag…

      All the videos on YouTube are generally of mechanics who are covering things up for a quick operation (like cleaning slugs) and not for longer cleans. This can be misleading for those who are doing longer term work where the rags need to withstand more liquid or are sitting for longer.

    1. Royal Quiet DeLuxe Typewriter Complete Total Body Removal by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Gerren uses a Weaver gunsmith screwdriver set for most of his screwdriver needs. [5:00]

      On the newer QDLs two of the screws for removing the rear plate are accessible from the top underneath the carriage instead of all on the rear.

      The screws for the front body plate can be loosened and don't need to be fully removed to take the body plate off of the machine.

    1. Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter Adjustment Print Quality Height Balance On-Feet Shift Motion by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      He made sure the carriage isn't out of alignment which can cause on feet issues as well.

      Adjust the basket stops higher or lower as necessary. Try 1/2 to full turn and test each

      The adjustment points are between the body and the carriage about an inch inside the body shell.

      Do upper case first. The first set of screws/nuts just next to the outside of the typewriter are for lower case and the second set just inside of those are for upper case.

      Turning the adjustment screws clockwise should push the carriage stops down just a bit.

      Some good characters to check are H, h, p, y, and 8.

    1. Does anyone know how do they make new platens?

      reply to u/General-Writing1764 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g7a8y5/does_anyone_know_how_do_they_make_new_platens/

      I'm guessing that JJ Short is taking the original, removing the rubber. Placing the core into a mold and pouring in new material which hardens. Once done they put it on a lathe and turn it down to the appropriate (original) diameter. Potentially they're sanding the final couple of thousands of an inch for finish.

      I'd imagine that if you asked them, they could/would confirm this general process.

      The only other shop I've heard doing platen work is Bob at Typewriter Muse, but I haven't gone through his YouTube videos to see what his process looks like. (I'm pretty sure he documents some of it there.)

    1. For an inexpensive starter machine ($5-25) that's easy to find, easy to get parts for and has a reasonable chance of working when in "unknown" or "untested" condition, I'd recommend one of the following ubiquitous, but solid machines which show up almost daily on ShopGoodwill.com:

      They'd all make excellent starter machines for a younger kid. The black models with glass keys from the 1940s will look a bit more old school/classic while the more industrial browns and grays with plastic keys from the 1950s are still solid choices. You might also find some later 60s/70s versions of these machines (or variations), and while they may be a bit more colorful, they'll usually have a lot more cheap plastic and can potentially have cheaper builds. (My parents got me my first typewriter, a 1948 Smith-Corona Clipper, in the mid-1980s when I was 10—I have it today and it still works as well as it did then; I still also love the airplane on the hood.)

      If you want something simple with a bit of color you can also look at the 70s/80s Brother Charger 11 which is pretty ubiquitious and inexpensive as well.

      Since you have some time, you can wait for one in better looking cosmetic condition (and with a case) which means it was probably better taken care of, and less likely to need aggressive cleaning, and more likely to work without needing any repairs. You can also wait to find one local that you can pick up in person (to save shipping cost and/or potential damage) or which will be cheaper to ship from nearby.

      Without any experience, you might try looking at Just My Typewriter's Typewriter 101 series on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS She covers most of the basics there.

      Cleaning a machine isn't horribly difficult and can be done pretty cheaply ($20 or less for some paint thinner/isopropyl and a small toothbrush), but if you need it or get a machine that needs some repair work, try https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html.

      If you're in an area with lots of yard sales, try shopping around and see if you find something interesting. It's at these that you'll have a potential chance of finding more collectible machines for pennies on the dollar and it'll also give you the chance to put your hands on machines to test them out to make sure they work.

      Good luck! 🎄


      reply to u/strawberystegosaurus at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g5rgi4/typewriter_for_christmas_please_help/

    1. Advanced Typing: Duplicating and Manuscript. Vol. MN-1512d, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ve5JnTUzvo.

      Stencils

      Before writing stencils, be sure to clean your type. (Don't use liquid solvent.)

      Be sure to place the cushion sheet properly behind the stencil.

      Place the paper bail rollers at the extreme left and right of the stencil to prevent them from marking the master.

      For errors, rub individual characters separately with a burnisher using a circular motion.

      Hectograph masters, Hectograph ribbon (ditto ribbon)

      Wax pencils

      Typefaces

      20% more type on a page with elite than 10 inch pica.

      Pica allows approximately 26-40 lines on standard letterhead giving 300-450 words to a page.

      Special characters: - o for degrees ' and " for feet and inches or minutes and seconds along with superscript - division: - backspace colon - pound sterling: L backspace f - exclamation point: period backspace ' - equal sign: hyphen backspace variable hyphen - paragraph mark: P backspace I

      proofreaders' marks<br /> # followed by a number is used to mean insert that number of spaces

      Centering timestamp 19:37

    1. Basic Typing: Machine Operation. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512b, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-REJEArnjE.

      Type pacer timestamp 4:12

      "Your head is the most important part of your typing." - Lenore Fenton

      "Your typewriter does exactly what you make it do, but it does no more" - Lenore Fenton <br /> This is very similar to quotes about computer programs at the end of the 20th century too.

      The touch characteristics for the manual, the noiseless, and the electric are all slightly different.

    1. 1962 Vintage IBM Typewriter Training Film IBM Selectric Proper Typing Procedures, w/ Bud McDole by [[Computer History Archives Project]]

      Right at the Typewriter. 16 mm. San Francisco, CA: KQED, 1962. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPfHAW_OfGo.

      On manual typewriters one "snaps" the keys while on an electric keyboard one "taps" the keys for maximum speed and accuracy.

      Overview of functionality of an IBM typewriter.

      To add longevity to one's carbon papers they should be rotated both top to bottom and front to back within one's packs.

      Use plastic type cleaner, meant for cleaning type slugs, to clean the excess ink from a typewriter. Form it into a point and press it to the letter to erase several times. Then erase with eraser shield and eraser.

      To type to the very bottom of the page, particularly with a carbon pack, to prevent slippage at the bottom, insert a "trailer sheet" about halfway down the first page. Insert it at the back of the pack just behind the original and between the first carbon sheet.

      For typing small sheets of paper (index cards) fold a pleat into a regular sheet of paper and use the lip to hold the smaller sheet you're typing on.

      To more quickly type envelopes, do the first then reverse the platen so that only about an inch of the top of the envelope is visible. Then insert the next envelope behind the first and continue reversing the platen. This will allow the finished envelopes to stack at the paper table and speed the threading and typing of envelopes in rapid succession.

      Use of the divots on the typing guide for making horizontal or vertical lines while moving the carriage or rotating the platen respectively.

      How to change the typeball and the ribbon cartridge on the IBM selectric.

    1. Soderbeck tells us about a recent job that took 40 hours to complete. He ended up charging the customer just $50.

      "Well, I already gave him an estimate," he says with a chuckle. "I'm not gonna change that quote, I've been here too long to do that."

      It seems like an unwritten rule for typewriter repair shops to go way over on time versus pay to repair a typewriter based on an initial quote.

      I've seen at least one other quote like this, but don't think I collected it.

    2. "I don't need the city of Richfield being involved, they've never talked to me for 49 years," he says of awkward visits this week from the mayor and a city council member.

      Why would the city come calling to a typewriter shop calling? Nostalgia perhaps? Better would be if they came to order or have their machines serviced to keep the place open or to help the next generation continue on.

    1. So I have a typewriter with a diamond-hard platen. All the usual tricks for softening didn't work, and sanding the hard layer back revealed that the rubber had entirely perished all the way to the core; so I've removed it. Now, I'm in Australia, and there is no professional group here that replaces platens. So I've been looking at home fixes, old manufacturing techniques, and I think I have a solution. I have wrapped a few thin layers of cork around the platen core, and I intend to finish it off with perhaps two layers of heat shrink rubber tomorrow. I think the end result will be a platen with a firm strike face and a softer centre to absorb the strikes. My trial with the cork on its own was promising, but it was ultimately a little too soft. I could harden it with urethane or resin, but in the interest of being able to undo my work, I will try the rubber first. Will keep you informed.

      One of the few others aside from JJ Short who is doing platens is Bob over at Typewriter Muse. Might be worth checking out his YouTube channel for some potential tips.

      I presume you're already aware of how to make your ring and cylinder adjustments when you're done, so things are properly tuned...

      Can't wait to see what you come up with...


      reply to u/throneofashes at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g2j4hz/platen_experiment/

    1. I've picked up about 20 of the typewriters in my collection from ShopGoodwill.

      Only two were impeccably/properly packaged and shipped and one of these was a special machine that I emailed them after purchase with written details and links to videos about how to pack and ship it just to be on the safe side.

      Three were dreadful disasters: one was a 40 pound standard that was dropped and the frame bent drastically (it had almost no padding materials inside the box), two were shoved into cases (one upside down and the other right side up, but neither locked into their cases properly nor with their carriage locks engaged so they both bounced around for the entire trip) and put into boxes with almost no packing material. All three refunded portions of the price and/or all the shipping costs.

      Most of the remainder (all portables with cases) were packaged with a modicum of care (some packing material in the case and some outside the case with reasonable boxes) and showed up in reasonable condition.

      Two of the machines were local enough that I did a local pick up to ensure better care.

      Generally, it's a crapshoot, but this is also the reason why I don't spend more than $20 on any machine I get from them (except one reasonably rare German typewriter in the US and a Royal with a Vogue typeface that still came out at less than $100 because only one other person noticed its rarity in the photos).

      Only one of the machines was clean as a whistle and ready to type on day one. All the remainder required serious cleanings at a minimum. Two were missing internal pieces, two had repairable drawband issues, one had dramatically bad escapement issues, and one had a destroyed mainspring that I need to replace.

      Only one of the group had a platen with any life left in it. One had a completely unusable platen, but it was also relatively obvious in the photos. Most of the rest were hard, but usable.

      I live in the US and typically only bid on machines that are in the top 20% of their class cosmetically.

      I'll echo the thought of others that I wouldn't have a machine from them shipped directly to someone as a present unless I knew they were a tinkerer and had the mechanical ability, the facilities/tools, and desire to clean and service their own machine. Otherwise, I'd do that myself and ship it to them directly.


      reply to u/Tico_Typer at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g28v6z/i_am_curious_about_the_shopping_goodwill_websites/

    1. Typing Technique and Typewriter Design by [[Will Davis]] and [[Dave Davis]]

      As early as 1932 Royal salesmen would use poor typing technique on purpose to cause skipping and piling and then use proper technique on their own machine to show how much better their typewriters were compared to the others.

      Some repair and service manuals had sections about tuning a typewriter to the level of technique of the user. These may have included 5-6 specific adjustments for allowance to a particular user's technique, as an example indicated in this video.

      "pounded out" - used by a heavy handed typist and now skipping (mentioned possibly in an Ames Repair Manual)

      In the mid-century, the service life of a standard machine was 1-3 years of continual (heavy) use. After this it would have been remanufactured or swapped out.

    1. I just got a 1950 version of this KMG this week in medium rough shape too. (My 7th Royal and my 2nd Standard)

      Looks like a Royal KMG with the Henry Dreyfuss glass tombstone keys in Gray Frieze paint. https://typewriterdatabase.com/Royal.KMG.72.bmys

      Mine has some minor carriage issues that I'm hoping clear up with some cleaning. Otherwise it may need some tools and internal repair work and/or parts. If yours is generally working, a good cleaning and oiling should get you going: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      Diagram of parts: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMGdiagram.jpg

      Manual of the prior model KMM which preceeded it, so the functionalilty should be almost exactly the same: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf (Royal Standard internals were almost exactly the same from the Ten (1909) through the FP/Empress (1966).)

      Home Study Course in Typewriter Repair and Service: ca. 1959, published by the Typewriter Repair School in Little Falls, New Jersey. Focuses on the Royal KMM among others: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/homestudycourse.pdf

      See also:<br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/manuals.php - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.royal-repair.manual - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.royal-parts-01.manual

      Searching on YouTube for cleaning and repair advice should help out a lot. Phoenix Typewriter has some solid videos on related models (search also the Royal X (ten), KH, KHM, KMM, KMG, HH, FP, and Empress which are all roughly the same internals with slightly different body styles.)

      If you need some basic typewriter 101, try: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      reply to u/MajesticWear5478 https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g1i440/tips_for_cleaning_and_fixing_a_1949_royal/#lightbox

    1. If the Letter is important, especially if it be aBusiness-Letter, there should be as long an interval as isfeasible between the writing and the sending off.

      writing and waiting is useful in many instances, and particularly for clarity of expression.

      see also: <br /> - angry letter https://hypothes.is/a/6OoqHofyEe-1mtOohGA63w - diffuse thinking<br /> - typewriter (waiting) <br /> - editing (waiting) https://hypothes.is/a/VxRNeofvEe-5n1dpCEM48Q

    2. Very few have the strength of mind tokeep back for a whole week a piece of Writing whichthey have finished. Type-writing sometimes necessitatesthis interval, or at any rate a certain interval.

      The process of having a work typewritten forced the affordance of creating time away from the writing of a piece. This allows for both active and diffuse thinking on the piece as well as the ability to re-approach it with fresh eyes days or weeks later.

    1. In David Gerrold's The Trouble with Tribbles: The Story Behind Star Trek's Most Popular Episode, he describes how he used a 12-pitch Selectric to type the 1967 episode. When the studio retyped it in pica (10-pitch) it came out to 90 pages and had to be cut down significantly to fit the show's running time.

      The difference amounts to approximately 3 words per page and about 50 words per page.

    1. The 2024 Phoenix Type-In by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Platen shrinkage

      • most typewriters are 6 lines per inch
      • 6.5 lines per inch based on actual measurement per JVC on one of his machines
      • 2mm shrinkage??
      • Per Bob/Typewriter Muse 1.1

      Bob had a machine that was supposed to be 1.27 but was measured at 1.259 when pulled off. So shrinkage of platens can be roughly fifteen hundredths of an inch (0.015" or about 0.4mm)

      Bob at Typewriter Muse custom tunes platens to the typewriter. Only place doing platens outside of JJ Short.

      JVC's partner took him to the Phoenix Type-in for her birthday.

      Bill Wahl of Mesa Typewriter Exchange

      grandfather started in the 40s<br /> bill started in 73<br /> part time help to 92 and now by himself<br /> does his benchwork after hours and chats during the day

      Ted Munk

      adding machine database consideration

      looking for service manuals for: - royal portables 50-59<br /> - skyriter 40s / 50s<br /> - sm9 service manual

      Royal Mercury manual is a clear, well-written manual. The Smith-Corona series 5 typewriter manuals are great too, though a bit more dense.

      Brian Goode and Christy organized this year's Phoenix Type-In.

    1. I’ve currently only fixed the platen and reconnected the space bar. Issue I’m having is the letters are really faint and cut off almost half way through.

      Often after you resurface a platen, it slightly changes the configuration of the platen with respect to the typeface. As a result one usually may need to do three adjustments in a specific order to get things to align properly again. These can definitely be done at home with some patience.

      Usually the order for tweaking is: * Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good). Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. * On Feet adjustment (vertical adjustment so that letters are bright and clear and neither top or bottom of characters are too light/faint) Repair shops will often type /// or a variety of characters with longer ascenders/descenders to make sure that the type is clear from top to bottom. * Motion adjustment (the lower and upper case letters are at the same level with respect to each other) The best way to test this is to type a center character like HHHhhhHHH to see if they line up on the bottom (the last three Hs are usually done with the Shift Lock on to make sure that's properly set).

      You can search YouTube videos for your model (or related models) and these words which may uncover someone doing a similar repair, so you have a better idea of what you're doing and where to make the adjustments.

      Here's Joe Van Cleave describing some of it in one of his early videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0AozF2Jfo0

      The general principles for most typewriters are roughly the same with slight variations depending on whether your machine is a segment shift or a carriage shift. You should roughly be able to puzzle out which screws to adjust on your particular model to get the general outcome you want.

      Related blogposts: * https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/<br /> * https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

      You might find a related repair manual for your machine with more detail and diagrams for these adjustments via the Typewriter Database or on Richard Polt's typewriter site.

      For those not mechanically inclined you may be better off taking it onto a repair shop for a quick adjustment. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html 

      Reply to u/Acethease at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1d76ygx/got_a_as_a_gift_corona_3_recentlyish_and_i_need/

    1. https://www.amsterdamtypewriter.com/en-us/products/typewriter-care-kit-diy

      Amsterdam Typewriter's kit contains all the following essentials:<br /> * Brass wire brush (for cleaning the typeface) * Natural bristled brush (general cleaning purposes) * Microfiber cotton cloth (for polishing, gentle to paint) * New ribbon (black, red or black or purple color) * 3 compact cotton tissues (disposable, soak in cleaner or mild soap solution to clean typewriter) * Alcohol spray for cleaning (removes ink, oxidation, stains, surface rust) * Deodorizing spray (for disinfection and removing odor from cases and felt lining) * 10 Special cotton buds with long reach (do not leave cotton strings behind) * Our miracle polishing paste (wonderfully revives paint, also polishes on metal, paint, glass, fiberglass, plastic) * Leather rolling pouch for carrying * Comfy cotton bag for storage * Checklist for cleaning * Copy of manual with tips on cleaning of your typewriter and detailed steps

    1. Oliver Sacks Archive Heads to the New York Public Library by [[Jennifer Schuessler]]

      The voluminous papers of the celebrated neurologist include letters, notebooks, drafts and other traces of a man who couldn’t stop writing.

      You have to love the boos, notebooks, papers, fountain pen, typewriter, computer, printer, and even writing software all pictured in this... Add the glasses and it just reeks of someone who reads and writes.

  2. Sep 2024
    1. I twist together two lengths of kevlar fishing line that's 0.4mm diameter and rated for 29kg, so combined roughly 0.8mm diameter and ~58kg pull. This is about the sweet spot imo in terms of thickness, slim enough to fit in small routing holes on mainspring housings and thick enough to get a good sized knot when you tie it. It's also pretty close to the thickness of old sinew drawbands I've replaced. The rated strength is definitely overkill but better over than under. In practise a drawband shouldn't experience more than 750g-1,5kg of pull under normal use.

      u/Koponewt aka Pelicram's advice for using fishing line to replace drawbands.

    1. A business in agreement with Dul is Kibbitznest Books, Brews & Blarney on Clybourn in Sheffield Neighbors, which strives to be unplugged and WiFi free. The cafe, bar, bookstore, and venue has five typewriters provided by Kibbitznest, Inc., the nonprofit associated with the business, although only one typewriter is currently in working order and available to use by customers. Annie Kostiner founded both the nonprofit and business aspects of Kibbitznest (the for-profit cafe is now run by Paige Hoffman).
    2. That desire for a “digital detox” is frequently brought up amongst typewriter aficionados—it’s an escape from pop-up ads, spyware, AI-generated content, doomscrolling, deepfakes, obnoxious comments sections, and all the other headaches that hit you at Internet speed. A piece of paper in a typewriter, on the other hand, is a simpler connection of your thoughts tapped out letter by letter, mistakes and all.
    1. What do you mean with Zettelkasten ratchet? I am too unfamiliar with the word ratchet to really understand the meaning.[9:46 AM] Or if someone else has an idea and can help me out

      The additional "hidden context" is that the rachet/gear seen in many of these diagrams is usually attached to a radial spring (or some other device) which, as it is wound, stores energy which is later used by the bigger device in which the rachet and pawl are encased. Examples include the stem of watches, which when wound, store energy which the watch later uses to run as it counts the seconds. Another example is the mainspring of a typewriter which is attached to a ratchet/pawl set up; when you push the carriage to the right, the spring gets wound up and stores energy which is slowly expended by the escapement a space or a letter at a time as you type. In the zettelkasten analogy, the box and numbered cards placed in it act as the pawl (the wedge that prevents backward movement), as you add more and more information, you're storing/building up "potential energy" in small bits. This "stored energy" can be spent at a later time by allowing you to more easily write an article, paper, book, etc. In some sense, the zettelkasten (as most tools do) allows you a "mechanical advantage" in the writing process over trying to remember everything you've ever read and then relying on your ability to spit it all back out in a well-ordered manner.


      reply to Muhammed Ali at https://discord.com/channels/992400632390615070/992400632776507447/1286577013439594497

      continuation of https://hypothes.is/a/GTPIPnYiEe-GTUu4YcdeAQ

    1. Typewriters? In 2024? Are You Nuts? by Jesse M. Slater for [[Raconteur Press]]

      A short, but relatively solid typewriter 101 story for someone looking for a distraction-free writing machine. Certainly not completist, but enough to get your toes wet.

      Slater uses his typewriter for a first draft, then edits the second draft as he re-types it into his computer to have a digital copy for further editing and distribution.

    1. reply to u/NoDoctor4602 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1fjrjns/ive_spent_a_few_days_searching_for_any_concrete/

      In the mid to late-1950's and after several typewriter manufacturers made limited runs of gold plated typewriters for special anniversaries or for bonuses to salespeople. They're uncommon, but not rare. I've seen at least 6 or seven pop up on auction sites in the last 6 months. If you really want one, watch the lower end of Facebook Marketplace, ShopGoodwill, Craigslist, et al. where one will assuredly pop up for a much more reasonable price. I'm not sure if it was this one or another I've seen since April, but one of these went up for sale on ShopGoodwill.com recently and sold for about $600. A week later it was listed on eBay for several thousand just like this one. Given the timeframe, I doubt they spent any time cleaning, oiling, or adjusting it in any fashion—it was a pure flip. I've also seen this recently with Royal typewriters with a less common, but highly collectible Vogue typeface: a Royal P sold for about $900 there and was listed on eBay shortly after for over $1,500 with no indication that it was cleaned or adjusted. (If you watch some of the sites carefully, you can pick up a Vogue machine for under $100 easily enough depending on the type and condition.)

      In my mind, as a collector, I'd try to find one in the wild and clean it up or I'd want it in stunning restored condition for over $2k. You might be just as well off picking up a working model for $100-$150 and gold plating the pieces yourself. It would probably be cheaper in the long run and you'd have a better machine in better condition. Some sucker with money to burn will eventually buy a Gold Olympia SM3 for over $2,000.

      Here's a vew posts/videos as examples of gold plated machines:<br /> - A video of another Gold Olympia: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnUHgyABjw0<br /> - Royal QDL https://typespec.com/weve-got-gold-in-them-thar-hills/<br /> - https://www.huffpost.com/entry/kasbah-mod-typewriters_n_1453776

      If you're looking for something great that you'll use, I recommend visiting a repair shop that has some stock to try out some machines to see if you'd like their touch/fee/aesthetics first. Visiting a type-in or two might give you some experience with a wide variety of typewriter models as well. Then try to find a rare or exceptional version that's worth putting some money into. Why put so much into an Olympia if it turns out you're an Olivetti, Royal, or Smith-Corona person? https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html (I desperately love Royals, but Smith-Coronas and Remingtons are much more forgiving of my mediocre typing technique, a fact which pains me dearly and cost a few hundred dollars and some sweat equity in cleaning and tuning machines to discover). Incidentally, I'll mention that for about $2,000 you could easily purchase a wide variety of about two dozen machines (even with shipping) and be able to get something truly exceptional in terms of condition and function.

      Incidentally, the higher prices of $250-600 for repaired/refurbished/restored machines being sold by repair shops are usually what Harry Beercan is using as a pricing guide when he's selling his grandmother's musty, broken, old typewriter online not knowing that several hundred dollars in labor and parts has been calculated into the selling price.

    1. delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.

      Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.

      Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.

    1. Typewriter Clear Plastic Card Guide Holder Clean Polish White Out Dirt Restore by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For cleaning white out off of the clear plastic on card guides try the following: - scrape with fingernail<br /> - Simple Green - Marvel Mystery Oil (from automotive shops) followed by lacquer thinner in miniscule amounts (one drop). The oil helps protect the plastic from melting from the lacquer thinner. Rinse and repeat.

      Others have indicated that floor wax stripper will remove white out without damaging the plastic of the card guides.

    1. Fossilized Masking Tape Removed Cleaned from Typewriter Body by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      The paint on the metal of the SMC 6 series typewriters will generally stand up well to lacquer thinner and along with scratching can be used to remove the old residual masking tape often found on these typewriters.

      WD-40, gun bore cleaner, and Simple Green generally don't do much to this sort of tape residue.

    1. Type-in activities:<br /> - learning about typewriters, both using and how they work;<br /> - demonstrations of typewriter maintenance, cleaning, how to change a ribbon, and small repairs for common problems - typewriter tool showcases - what tools might you need to maintain, clean, and repair your typewriter? - lots of machines to try out, which might best suit your writing style, and typing touch? If you don't have a typewriter, this is a great way to try some out before buying your first one - typewriter purchasing and collecting advice - encouraging typing as a distraction and screen-free writing tool - writing (fiction, non-fiction, poetry) along with potential writing prompts (this could dovetail in with other library-related writing endeavors); - A group story: A single typewriter is reserved to one side upon which each participant can contribute by typing a single sentence to create a collaborative/group story "exquisite corpse"-style; - typewriter art and arttyping - Speed typing contest (with small prizes) - We'll bring stationery (paper, envelopes, stamps) to encourage participants to type letters to friends or family (bring an address for someone you'd like to write to); - typewriter swap and sale (optional depending on the venue's perspective; sales are not the primary purpose here) - typewriter repairs using 3D printing or designing replacement parts (if the venue can support this) - typewriter handicrafts (typewriter covers and sewing/repairing cases) - typewriter resources (repair shops, where to find ribbon, how old is my machine?, et al.) - a possible typewriter mystery game? - share stories - encourage community

      For a local library-specific type in:<br /> - library card applications which can be typewritten for potential patrons who don't have a library card - typewriter books (particularly if hosted at a library; place a hold on several typewriter-related books which attendees can browse through at the event and check out afterward) - 3D printing typewriter keys, spare parts; design of replacement parts for 3D printing

      Attendees are encouraged to bring one (or many more of their own favorite manual typewriters) to use, showcase, or demonstrate to others, but having your own typewriter is NOT a requirement for attendance.

    1. https://myoldtypewriter.com/2018/08/05/adler-j3-please-release-me/

      Adler's have a quirky locking mechanism for helping to lock the machines into their cases and after decades of storage, the rubber can compress thereby locking the typewriter into the case permanently. Removing the e-clips internally will unlock them at which point the rubber compression locks can be replaced.

      The article mentions other incidences of this. Another example at https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1fckg8f/removing_triumph_gabriele_1_from_case_base_plate/

  3. www.reddit.com www.reddit.com
    1. Aluminum Foil Method: Tear off a small piece of aluminum foil and dip it in water or vinegar. Rub the rust spots gently with the foil. Aluminum is softer than chrome and will not scratch the surface while effectively removing rust. As you rub, the foil reacts with the rust, helping to dissolve it. Steel Wool Method (Use with Caution): If the rust is more severe, use fine steel wool (#0000 grade) to gently scrub the rusty areas. Be careful not to press too hard, as steel wool can scratch chrome if applied too aggressively.

      Suggestions for removing rust from chrome on typewriters and typewriter cases.

  4. Aug 2024
    1. I came across this note and saved it for you and all other Olympia SMx users; I do not know who the author is: "Can I just say, having been in the typewriter trade since 1975, PLEASE take it from me that the Group 1 (or Group 1001) ribbon intended for Olympia, Adler, Facit and many other makes DOES NOT have eyelets !! The ribbon mechanism is designed to trip and reverse when the ribbon gets taut as one spool becomes full and the other totally empty. Someone may well have fitted an eyeletted ribbon to a Group 1 spool as a bodge to get over a sluggish or badly adjusted ribbon reverse mechanism - to give the reversing fork an extra 'nudge'. The factory did not intend the ribbon to be reversed this way." In my experience, eyelets will often slip through the reversing arms and then hang up on the vibrator. You don't have to buy eyeletless ribbons; you can just cut them off the ends of your current ribbon and reattach to the spools.
    1. Advanced Typing - Shortcuts (1943)

      Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.

      Correct typing posture: fingers curved<br /> arms sloping up<br /> light fast strokes<br /> steady rhythm

      fast continuous motion of return lever<br /> using backing sheet (aka temping sheet ??)

      Shortcuts:<br /> mise en place for office supplies (she doesn't use this phrasing though) - greater efficiency - cuts down on searching

      tabulators can be helpful. There are two types:<br /> - automatic - handset

      Use tabs for paragraphs, dating letters, columns of numbers, and letter closings.

      To clear all tab stops, put carriage to left, hold tab clear key and move the carriage across. (Usually applies to Royal, Remington, Underwood, and Electromatic).

      On LC Smith and Woodstock machines sometimes have a tab clear lever on the back.

      Decimal tabulator keys help to align a variety of numbers around a decimal point.

      Always have a few tabs set to prevent a flying carriage which can be hard on the machine.

      When using carbon sheets which are slightly longer than the paper size, cut off a small triangle at the top left hand side. This makes it easier for one to separate the carbons from the copies by holding the top left with one hand and pulling the carbons out from the bottom of the stack.

      To align multiple sheets of paper for carbon copies, use a folded sheet at the top to taco the pages into the machine. Remove the folded sheet once the carbon pack is rolled forward.

      Paper bail rollers should be set to split the pages into thirds (for two rollers).

      Remington noiseless machines have a pressure indicator on the front of the machine (usually above the keyboard) which can be used when using thick carbon packs that may cause the ribbon guide to stick or bind.

      Only erase when the carriage is fully left or right to prevent eraser crumbs from falling into the machine.

      Use a soft eraser on carbon copies. Use and insert slips of paper behind the carbons and allowing them to stick out the sides, erasing from back sheet to front so as not to allow the eraser to mark your carbon copies. For the front sheet, use a shield and ink eraser and erase with a horizontal motion. After erasing, easily pull out the inserted sheets.

      When typing a correction, tap the key lightly two or three times rather than hard once.

      When in a rush and it's necessary to add a word (on double spacing), underline the last letter of the prior word and type a slash (/). Then move the typing line up and type the insertion above the prior line. This creates an "arrow" of sorts for the inserted word.

      Details for inserting extra letters in misspelled words using half-spacing machines. (Underwoods and Electromatics don't have this function.)

      Light pencil marks at the bottom of the sheet can help to indicate the coming bottom of the sheet.

      Putting up the card holders (fingers) on Underwoods and Royals. They help to hold the card and improve print quality and reduce noise.

      Card holders can cause markings on carbon packs if they're not lowered.

      Trick for quickly writing postcards in succession: Disengage the ratchet using the platen spring release (or variable platen switch) Type the address on the front of the card. When done give the platen a quick practiced spin. The postcard with "jump" up and stop at the paper table and be in position for rolling in the opposite direction to write the message on the back of the card! When done a faster spin of the platen will shoot the card over the back of the typewriter where it can land in a box to collect all the postcards which were written in such a manner. <br /> timestamp 23:22

      Time saving methods for addressing envelopes:

      • Front seat principle. Insert the envelope in the usual way and type out the address. When done, turn the envelope down through the machine with the right hand. With the left hand, place the next envelope between the top of the first envelope and the front of the platen. Feed the first envelope back through the machine (in reverse) and the second will be rolled in to place for typing. Continue in this fashion until finished. All the finished envelopes will stack up in the back at the paper table.

      • Chain feeding. The first envelope is inserted and rolled partway into the machine. A second envelope is inserted between the platen and the second envelope (behind the platen). Turn the first envelope to the writing line and type the address. Take out the first envelope and insert the next the same way as before.

      • Uses paper bail. Do the first envelope in the usual way. Spin it out of the machine up and behind the paper bail into a box behind the typewriter.

      For quickly doing labels or small cards:<br /> Create a small zig-zag fold into a piece of paper to create a pocket slot which can be scotch taped on either side. This template paper can then be inserted so that the pocket is visible above the writing line, but the paper below it is still in the platen. The label or card can be placed into the pocket and the platen reversed to feed the label or card in backwards to the desired typing line. Using a v-groove or hole in the typing line can create a pencil line to serve as a guide for inserting many labels at the same place so that the typing lines up between labels.

      Some offices had special platens for holding cards like this.

      Pockets like this can also be used to hold the page to add additional lines at the bottom of pages. Deeper pockets may need to be used for doing this with carbon packs whose carbons are longer than the pages.

      Alternately one can do something similar by creating a inverted u-shaped set of slits into an index card. to hold such labels.

      When in the midst of a page and needing to do another piece urgently, roll back the letter until about 2 inches from the top, and then place in the new page and one between each of the carbons. Then roll forward to do the short message as necessary. Turn back to the insertion position to remove the copies and then continue with the first letter where you left off.

      For drawing horizontal lines on typewriter paper, push the carriage to the extreme left and place the pencil or pen at the edge of the card guide and the scale. Then move the carriage to the right to effect the line. For vertical lines, put the carriage at the desired space and place the pencil at the card guide and scale and move the platen up/down as necessary.

    1. Typewriter Video Series - Episode 147: Font Sizes and the Writing Process by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      typewriters for note making

      double or 1 1/2 spacing with smaller typefaces may be more efficient for drafting documents, especially first drafts

      editing on actual paper can be more useful for some

      Drafting on a full sheet folded in half provides a book-like reading experience for reading/editing and provides an automatic backing sheet

      typewritten (or printed) sheets may be easier to see and revise than digital formats which may hide text the way ancient scrolls did for those who read them.

      Jack Kerouac used rolls of paper to provide continuous writing experience. Doesn't waste the margins of paper at the top/bottom. This may be very useful for first drafts.

      JVC likes to thread rolls of paper into typewriters opposite to the original curl so as to flatten the paper out in the end.

    1. I have it too, and I'm not a fan. it only contains imperial bits. So you can't use it on any brand from the European mainland, that have metric screws. They break when you over torque them, instead of the screw. That's good with very old machines. What is bad us that they only provide one of the smallest bit which is most prone to breaking. And also I have many typewriters with even thinner slots on the slotted screws. the bit holder is very fat, making it very difficult to use in narrow spaces. And typewriters have a lot of those. You're better off with a gunsmithing set from Wheeler or Weaver. This is the one I ended up buying: https://www.weaveroptics.com/gunsmithing-tools/driver-and-hammer-sets/multi-bit-tool-kit/WV-849718.html

      via u/Private_Bonkers

      the cons of the Chapman 0623 screwdriver set for typewriter repair

    1. Did it work prior to replacing the ribbon? If yes, then perhaps remove the ribbon and replace again. See page 19 of the manual here: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

      YouTube also has tutorials for how to thread these. (Also search for the No. 10, KH, KHM, HH, Empress, FP, etc. which also used the same general ribbon spools and set up if you can't find a KHM.) I can*t tell 100% from the photo, but the ribbon looks like it's spooling on clockwise on the right (and vice-versa for the left) and you want it the other way.

      Is it not advancing regardless of which direction you have the ribbon going? Usually just one side is not working. You can use this fact to compare the typewriter bilaterally. Watch what's going on with the side that does work and compare it with the side the doesn't. What's wrong on the non-working side?

      Often times the spindle on one or both sides is frozen up with dried up grease, oil, dirt, or dust. A small quirt of mineral spirits or lacquer thinner (or other degreaser) will free it up. (Here we use the mantra, a typewriter isn't really "broken" unless it's clean and broken.) See: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

      reply to u/UltimateAiden98 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1f0nzt8/my_royal_kmm_ribbon_is_t_advancing_what_should_i/

    1. Colloquial repair solutions for hard platens: <br /> - use backing sheet(s) - light sanding and cleaning with organic solvents - Brake Fluid soaking for an hour followed by drying time (see also: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html) - Rubber Renue https://mgchemicals.com/products/electronics-maintenance/specialized-cleaners/rubber-renue/ - Methyl salicylate and alcohol mixture - Sanding and/or lathing and resurfacing with heat shrink tubing and/or by bicycle inner tube

      Actual repair/restoration/recovery:<br /> - J. J. Short Associates, Inc. https://www.jjshort.com/typewriter-platen-repair.php

      see colloquial advice at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ewb36f/rubber_renue_to_soften_platens/

    2. This has been an ongoing "philosophers stone" in the repair community for a long time. Hard platens are the result of the rubber losing its moisture, there's virtually no way to fix that long term. Brake fluid, rubber renew, even the wintergreen oil trick only temporarily soften platens/feeds. They will absolutely go back to their former state after a time. (1-2 months) You can sand the exterior and clean with organic solvents to restore grip and improve the original platen, but recovery is really the only long term fix. *There's a ton of back and forth about the sanding method, particularly from the old timers being salty about it. But I have seen HUNDREDS of old platens in machines that have absolutely been sanded by repair folks back in the day, so there's definitely value in the process.

      Kirk Jackson, Nashville Typewriter via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ewb36f/rubber_renue_to_soften_platens/lj24vxx/

    1. Long time lurker, first time poster...

      I picked up a British branded Orga Privat 5 (circa 1931) this past week. I've repaired enough of it now that I'm sure I can get it fully functioning again. It's going to take some serious cleaning and polishing to bring it back to its original glory. It was missing the original metal spools which I'd like to try to replace with period metal ones. I'd also like to replace the spool nuts and find one missing spool cover.

      The spools (my Olympia machines' spools work) and nuts may be easiest to track down if folks have suggestions for sourcing. The tougher part will be finding an original or replica black enamel ribbon cover unless someone has an Orga they're parting out. It appears that almost all of the Orgas used the same spool set up and covers (2.25 inches / 5.8mm O.D.) through most of their manufacture so the Orga Privat 1-7 and Modell 8-Modell 10 will probably work. My German is almost non-existent, or I'd start by calling shops in Europe.

      Its also missing its wooden base and metal cover, but I have less hope of finding replacements for these, particularly British rebranded ones from the Durable Trading Company. I've added my example to the Typewriter Database and it appears to be the only English branded model there across multiple examplars of 10 different models of the machine from the company.

      For the curious collectors, I've documented some details and photos of the machine here: https://boffosocko.com/.../acquisition-1928-1933-new.../

      Post to Antique Typewriter Maintenance Group